I have a rem700p(26 inch 1:12) in 308. It shoots about 3/4 moa with occasional 1/2 moa groups with hand loads. The barrel is a PITA to clean. I was wandering about trying TUBB's Final Finish. Primarily to help ease barrel cleaning.I have just over 600 rounds down the tube and sounds like most people use it on new factory barrels. I don't want to do anything that will open up the group size or shorten barrel life. Any advice???
Gunsmithing hard to clean barrel
- Thread starter rdracer126
- Start date
Leave it alone and enjoy it. It's a good shooter. What are you using to clean? Not all solvents are created equal.
Factory barrels are just tougher to clean than customs. It's one of the benefits of going custom.
Factory barrels are just tougher to clean than customs. It's one of the benefits of going custom.
Get some boretech eliminator..your life will be easier.
Some JB bore compound might help also.
R
R
I have been using Hoppes 9 coper solvent
Try shooters choice followed by JB, and then finished off with more shooter's choice - cleaning will get somewhat easier, but factory barrels are generally just tough.
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How many times you cleaned it? It doesn't need it that often, unless your have an obsession with it, or it quit shooting the same group sizes. You are more likely to wear the barrel with excessive cleaning than by shooting - it's a 308, not exactly a barrel burner.
I don't really care much about "ease of cleaning" - it shoots good, and doesn't need cleaning, or has quit shooting good and needs cleaning. The Boretech is good stuff, gets copper out, most of the carbon. 3-4 wet patches, ten wet brush strokes, soak time, then patch out till clean, ten minutes fifteen tops. No drama.
SHoot 10k rounds thru it, then you can change it out for a Bartlien.
Another vote for Boretech products.
They work great.
They work great.
Try 25 to 50 strokes of KG2. After that try Boretech copper and carbon remover.
I have been borescoping a few factory Remington barrels before and after the KG2 treatment, and it really helps remove the small tooling marks, copper, and over all ease of cleaning. After comparing Kreiger, Rock, and various factory barrels with the borescope, you understand why the custom barrels clean up so much easier. Try the KG2.
I have been borescoping a few factory Remington barrels before and after the KG2 treatment, and it really helps remove the small tooling marks, copper, and over all ease of cleaning. After comparing Kreiger, Rock, and various factory barrels with the borescope, you understand why the custom barrels clean up so much easier. Try the KG2.
I have to ask what kinda load are you using? Is the "dirt" carbon or carbon and copper fouling? Some powders like RE15 take more to get the black out, CFE223 really helps to keep the barrel clean, seems to work in my SPSS 308, that and 2000MR. Oh, I use good ole Hoppes #9, it gets the shite out as well as anything.
Yeah, if you're getting .5moa at times, whats wrong with that?
Yeah, if you're getting .5moa at times, whats wrong with that?
WIPE-OUT.
You'll never look back. Amazing stuff.
You'll never look back. Amazing stuff.
Mix you up some Ed's Red. Find the recipe by googling it. This stuff works! And it'll cost about $20 for a whole gallon. I've been working off the same gallon for at least 8 years.
The gun shoots good groups I recently have found that it likes 155 scenars and RE15 (1/2 - 3/4 moa, best 5 shot group was .45 at 100) My normal routine is after about 40-50 rounds I clean with a couple wet patches of hoppes then wet brush then dry patch till clean then after the next 40- 50 I wet patch and brush and repeat till clean seems after each brushing it digs up more black stuff and it takes a while . Am I cleaning it to much?
This is good advice.......
I have always used only BoreTech Eliminator on my rifles and only clean every 200-300 rounds, when accuracy starts to fade. Patches are clean after 5 or 6. Soak first patch well and slowly run it through the barrel. Let gun sit for a munite or two. Then follow with dry patches until no further carbon or copper seen on patches. Then use 1 patch with small amount of KranOil and clean chamber with 20 gauge shotgun mop. Always use appropriately sized bore guide. No brushes nylon or otherwise. Lube and clean the bolt after every few sessions or if rifle will not be in use for prolonged period. Works well for me and accuracy under 1/2 MOA on my weapons.
This: Gunslick Foaming Bore Cleaner (12-Ounce) : Amazon.com : Sports & Outdoors is the simplest and most effective cleaner I've found to date, and the Amazon listing is the simplest and cheapest way I've found to get it.
I can appreciate your disappointment with the Hoppe's #9 Copper Solvent. It tends to be on the gentler side of copper solvent choices, and really isn't ideal for removing carbon fouling. The Gunslick Foam will work much better, and much more easily.
There may be some sense in easing up on your cleaning regimen. A virginal-clean barrel needs some shots to establish a stable fouling condition, and that's the state where load development is done and is effective.
If you don't clean between shootings sessions, it can pay to do some corrosion prevention for longer periods of downtime. I will oil my bore for longer downtime if I'm skipping the cleaning, then patch it back out just before shooting again.
Greg
I can appreciate your disappointment with the Hoppe's #9 Copper Solvent. It tends to be on the gentler side of copper solvent choices, and really isn't ideal for removing carbon fouling. The Gunslick Foam will work much better, and much more easily.
There may be some sense in easing up on your cleaning regimen. A virginal-clean barrel needs some shots to establish a stable fouling condition, and that's the state where load development is done and is effective.
If you don't clean between shootings sessions, it can pay to do some corrosion prevention for longer periods of downtime. I will oil my bore for longer downtime if I'm skipping the cleaning, then patch it back out just before shooting again.
Greg
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We're in overall agreement, Greg.
I've got a lot of different chemicals in my repertoire, but for legitimately removing copper, the Gunslick is my go-to because it's easy and sure seems to work. It has a nice combination of simple application and also an indication that it's working (by turning blue with copper). I've found, however, it isn't too great at removing powder fouling.
I usually try to clean the powder fouling out with one of the chemicals suited for it (Kroil, mPRO7, Slip2000, etc etc), and if I desire a "deep cleaning", use the gunslick to pull out the copper.
I also agree with your take on perhaps backing off on the cleaning regime. There is little reason to get after a 308 so much.
I use Butch's Bore Shine and a homemade mix. Works for me..
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