Hi all, just recently got a new Rem 700 sps tactical. The bolt seems to stick when loading a round, I have noticed that the bolt seems to be pretty "dry' looking, as in not lubed at all? wondering if anyone has had this problem, and what the fix was, OR if anyone has any idea on how to disassemble the bolt on the new style 700 sps (no key slot as per remington owner manual) so i can go in and lube a little. thanks ahead of time!
Gunsmithing HELP!! Bolt seems to stick
Re: HELP!! Bolt seems to stick
I've got the same rifle in .308 and the bolt did seem to be a little on the dry side. I'll bet the factory puts as little lube as possible on the bolt to keep leaking to a minimum.
As far as stripping the bolt, here's a video from Lowlight, the proprietor of this site.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDy2GrIx6p8
I've got the same rifle in .308 and the bolt did seem to be a little on the dry side. I'll bet the factory puts as little lube as possible on the bolt to keep leaking to a minimum.
As far as stripping the bolt, here's a video from Lowlight, the proprietor of this site.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hDy2GrIx6p8
Re: HELP!! Bolt seems to stick
does the bolt close easily when there is not a round being chambered? If so your chamber may be a little out of spec or have some burrs that need to be polished out
does the bolt close easily when there is not a round being chambered? If so your chamber may be a little out of spec or have some burrs that need to be polished out
Re: HELP!! Bolt seems to stick
"I'll bet the factory puts as little lube as possible on the bolt to keep leaking to a minimum"
You want to take a moment to explain this to us? I've owned and built rifles on hundreds of Rem 700's. I ain't had one leak yet!
"I'll bet the factory puts as little lube as possible on the bolt to keep leaking to a minimum"
You want to take a moment to explain this to us? I've owned and built rifles on hundreds of Rem 700's. I ain't had one leak yet!
Re: HELP!! Bolt seems to stick
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DocEd</div><div class="ubbcode-body">....I ain't had one leak yet! </div></div>
That means you are out of bolt fluid!
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DocEd</div><div class="ubbcode-body">....I ain't had one leak yet! </div></div>
That means you are out of bolt fluid!
Re: HELP!! Bolt seems to stick
You all laugh at this guy, but don't offer to help.
Bolt fluid, this guy knows is a joke.
If he only had a better what?
Come on, let's work together.
You all laugh at this guy, but don't offer to help.
Bolt fluid, this guy knows is a joke.
If he only had a better what?
Come on, let's work together.
Re: HELP!! Bolt seems to stick
Ill ask again.....does the bolt close easily when there is not a round being chambered? If so your chamber may be a little out of spec or have some burrs that need to be polished out
Ill ask again.....does the bolt close easily when there is not a round being chambered? If so your chamber may be a little out of spec or have some burrs that need to be polished out
Re: HELP!! Bolt seems to stick
Has anyone told you that you have to grease the backs of the bolt lugs? A dobb of grease about the size of a BB on the back each lug will do the trick. Personally I use Mobil 1 synthetic general purpose grease. The red stuff. 1 tube is a life time supply for that purpose. Every time you clean it, lube the bolt. The grease will wipe off. Get an action cleaning kit with the cotton dental rolls to clean the lug raceways and recess in front of the chamber.
Read around a little. I think you'll find I'm close on this.
Has anyone told you that you have to grease the backs of the bolt lugs? A dobb of grease about the size of a BB on the back each lug will do the trick. Personally I use Mobil 1 synthetic general purpose grease. The red stuff. 1 tube is a life time supply for that purpose. Every time you clean it, lube the bolt. The grease will wipe off. Get an action cleaning kit with the cotton dental rolls to clean the lug raceways and recess in front of the chamber.
Read around a little. I think you'll find I'm close on this.
Re: HELP!! Bolt seems to stick
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DocEd</div><div class="ubbcode-body">"I'll bet the factory puts as little lube as possible on the bolt to keep leaking to a minimum"
You want to take a moment to explain this to us? I've owned and built rifles on hundreds of Rem 700's. I ain't had one leak yet! </div></div>
In retrospect, that may have been a poor choice of words.
What I meant was that I'll bet the factory applies very little lube to the inner bolt workings to keep residual lube leakage to a minimum for those sellers who put the rifle on a shelf and let folks finger-fornicate the rifle. A heavy application of lube to the internal workings could result in lube leakage about the action and stock, as well as allowing the oil to act as a collector of sorts for the dust and grit that is found in the everyday air. An amount of oil in and around the bolt allowed to collect dust and grit will result in an action feel that is unacceptable for those people in the market for a new rifle. Add to this that having a new rifle covered in oil is a visual detractor, and my previous statement makes sense; at least it makes sense to me.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DocEd</div><div class="ubbcode-body">"I'll bet the factory puts as little lube as possible on the bolt to keep leaking to a minimum"
You want to take a moment to explain this to us? I've owned and built rifles on hundreds of Rem 700's. I ain't had one leak yet! </div></div>
In retrospect, that may have been a poor choice of words.
What I meant was that I'll bet the factory applies very little lube to the inner bolt workings to keep residual lube leakage to a minimum for those sellers who put the rifle on a shelf and let folks finger-fornicate the rifle. A heavy application of lube to the internal workings could result in lube leakage about the action and stock, as well as allowing the oil to act as a collector of sorts for the dust and grit that is found in the everyday air. An amount of oil in and around the bolt allowed to collect dust and grit will result in an action feel that is unacceptable for those people in the market for a new rifle. Add to this that having a new rifle covered in oil is a visual detractor, and my previous statement makes sense; at least it makes sense to me.
Re: HELP!! Bolt seems to stick
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Victor N TN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Has anyone told you that you have to grease the backs of the bolt lugs? A dobb of grease about the size of a BB on the back each lug will do the trick. Personally I use Mobil 1 synthetic general purpose grease. The red stuff. 1 tube is a life time supply for that purpose. Every time you clean it, lube the bolt. The grease will wipe off. Get an action cleaning kit with the cotton dental rolls to clean the lug raceways and recess in front of the chamber.
Read around a little. I think you'll find I'm close on this. </div></div>
Good advice. Everyone of my rifles sports the pink goo
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Victor N TN</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Has anyone told you that you have to grease the backs of the bolt lugs? A dobb of grease about the size of a BB on the back each lug will do the trick. Personally I use Mobil 1 synthetic general purpose grease. The red stuff. 1 tube is a life time supply for that purpose. Every time you clean it, lube the bolt. The grease will wipe off. Get an action cleaning kit with the cotton dental rolls to clean the lug raceways and recess in front of the chamber.
Read around a little. I think you'll find I'm close on this. </div></div>
Good advice. Everyone of my rifles sports the pink goo
Re: HELP!! Bolt seems to stick
Hey guys, sorry, been off line for a while... answers..
19scout77 and Victor N TN: Awesome advice thanks! I do use grease, right now I use Shooters Choice, not sure the nomenclature, but it comes in a syringe looking thing and its red grease, works awesome!
Deadly: You were probably the closest to the actual problem, no burrs on the bolt or anything, but when i dug deeper and actually opened my eyes, i noticed when i tried to load a round, it was hanging up on the mag well lip, it was probably an 8th inch to high, and rubbing on every round. Thanks to my dremel, got that taken care of. Right on, and thanks!
Thanks everyone for your words of wisdom!
Kujo out!
Hey guys, sorry, been off line for a while... answers..
19scout77 and Victor N TN: Awesome advice thanks! I do use grease, right now I use Shooters Choice, not sure the nomenclature, but it comes in a syringe looking thing and its red grease, works awesome!
Deadly: You were probably the closest to the actual problem, no burrs on the bolt or anything, but when i dug deeper and actually opened my eyes, i noticed when i tried to load a round, it was hanging up on the mag well lip, it was probably an 8th inch to high, and rubbing on every round. Thanks to my dremel, got that taken care of. Right on, and thanks!
Thanks everyone for your words of wisdom!
Kujo out!
Re: HELP!! Bolt seems to stick
Oh and thanks for the backup TCA4570! Its all in good fun as I look at it, I can take some abuse, but its good to know there is someone out there to step in on the badgering for others that may be turned away by it!
Oh and thanks for the backup TCA4570! Its all in good fun as I look at it, I can take some abuse, but its good to know there is someone out there to step in on the badgering for others that may be turned away by it!
Re: HELP!! Bolt seems to stick
I've encountered this with several new rifles including 700s and have found a couple of causes. If you mounted or had a scope mounted sometimes the screws are slightly too lond and will extend into the chamber making contact with a round as it is chambered and causing sticky extraction as well. lokk for marks on the brass to identify this cause.
Another possible cause can be brass that has been fired from a different rifle and isn't fitting well into that chamber, usually at the shoulder, if you reload. I always keep track of my brass from one rifle to another to avoid those problems.
I recently bought a new 700 in 7mm rem. mag and experienced a problem that was caused by a brass bristle from a bore brush that got jammed in the belt ridge eating up the already tight tolorance head space Remington seems to build them with. I measured the head space on all of my 700s and found that the .006 max head space was nearly at zero making very little room for dirt or debris of any kind. If you have the proper guages (go, no go) you can very lightly lap if head space is tighter than what will work with factory ammo. Just make sure you head space with factory as used or reloaded brass will almost always chamber at the head a little loser than factory. I spoke to Remington about this and they acknowledged this rather tight issue stating " so long as it will chamber a round your OK and things will losen up the more you shoot the rifle". It only becomes a serious concern when head space exceeds the .006 which is by the way the tolorance spec for all high powered rifles.
And yes, a little lube on the back of the lugs will help, especially when your breaking the weapon in. Just be sure you clean that lube off after each shooting session and lube again if it is still feeling too tight, or a build up of grit and general residue will start to occure. I use a dry lube for this application rather than oil or like substance to prevent crap from building up on the wet surface oil and such will present. Graphite is great for this and makes cleaning up less cumbersome. I would personally avoid using oil as it is possible to inadvertantly wind up with your chamber getting enough in it to change the demensions when 60 or 70 thousand psi is introduced. Liquid won't compress and will damage your chamber under the extreme pressure of any firearm. Rule of thumb, never oil the chamber or barrel without first cleaning all of it out before shooting that weapon.
I've encountered this with several new rifles including 700s and have found a couple of causes. If you mounted or had a scope mounted sometimes the screws are slightly too lond and will extend into the chamber making contact with a round as it is chambered and causing sticky extraction as well. lokk for marks on the brass to identify this cause.
Another possible cause can be brass that has been fired from a different rifle and isn't fitting well into that chamber, usually at the shoulder, if you reload. I always keep track of my brass from one rifle to another to avoid those problems.
I recently bought a new 700 in 7mm rem. mag and experienced a problem that was caused by a brass bristle from a bore brush that got jammed in the belt ridge eating up the already tight tolorance head space Remington seems to build them with. I measured the head space on all of my 700s and found that the .006 max head space was nearly at zero making very little room for dirt or debris of any kind. If you have the proper guages (go, no go) you can very lightly lap if head space is tighter than what will work with factory ammo. Just make sure you head space with factory as used or reloaded brass will almost always chamber at the head a little loser than factory. I spoke to Remington about this and they acknowledged this rather tight issue stating " so long as it will chamber a round your OK and things will losen up the more you shoot the rifle". It only becomes a serious concern when head space exceeds the .006 which is by the way the tolorance spec for all high powered rifles.
And yes, a little lube on the back of the lugs will help, especially when your breaking the weapon in. Just be sure you clean that lube off after each shooting session and lube again if it is still feeling too tight, or a build up of grit and general residue will start to occure. I use a dry lube for this application rather than oil or like substance to prevent crap from building up on the wet surface oil and such will present. Graphite is great for this and makes cleaning up less cumbersome. I would personally avoid using oil as it is possible to inadvertantly wind up with your chamber getting enough in it to change the demensions when 60 or 70 thousand psi is introduced. Liquid won't compress and will damage your chamber under the extreme pressure of any firearm. Rule of thumb, never oil the chamber or barrel without first cleaning all of it out before shooting that weapon.
