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Help Me Build-Up My 700 SPS Tactical

alpha0815

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Feb 26, 2013
47
0
So I've got a .308 SPS Tactical AAC-SD. I replaced the stock with a B&C Tactical Medalist 2, LaRue 20 MOA rail & rings, Vortex Viper PST scope. And I've been shooting the mess out of this gun and practicing as much as I can. I can now shoot consistent sub-MOA groups (3 shot). I feel that I am just about ready for a more accurate rifle. However, I am still a bit of newb when it comes to precision bolt guns, so I need some advice. Below is what I am thinking of so far. Obviously the work would have to be performed by one of the reputable precision builders/smiths.

- Timney #510 trigger (2 or 2.5 lbs)
- True receiver & bolt
- Krieger SS barrel (thread muzzle, Cerakote finish)
- Install Tac Ops bolt knob
- Wyatt's M4 bottom metal & Detachable Mag

I would really like to keep the Bell & Carlson A2 style stock. It has the aluminum block, so do I still have a need for the builder to pillar bed it? Also, what contour barrel would I need to still be able to use this stock without modification?

Would like to know what the 'Hide' thinks of this.
 
All depends on what you wanna spend, and a good smith will have no problem making a bigger bbl fir the channel. If your getting good accuracy might not be much reason to do anything. What kind of accuracy are you getting and what do you want to get? I'm not saying that going custom is wrong at all, just might not give you what you are looking for. I would probably just get a custom from the ground up and have 2 rifles. But thats just me.

Then you could have a rifle for different things if you wanted, and if you ever had to send one off for anything you would have a backup.

How well does it shoot now?
 
The Hide thinks that we don't have enough information to go on.

Sub MOA can be a pretty big range. Just remember, sub MOA should be sub 10"@1000yds. That is pretty good.

Without any numbers, sub MOA can 3/4moa, 1/2moa, 1/8moa, 1/16moa. You may have a world class Remington factory rifle.


Now, how are we suppose to know what you are wanting to get. For many of us "practical" shooters, 3/4moa is all we need. If you need the razor's edge of precision, 3/4moa may not do.

Is this rifle going to be a plinker, a LR hunting rifle, a rifle for a Marine sniper?


Most factory actions can shoot well. The barrel, stock, and shooter are the important parts. A trued action WILL get you less MOA, but it may not be cost effective.

Remember, gun smithing cost is hard to recoup if you are to ever sale this firearm. If you want the best precision, I would suggest starting with a custom action. It will cost more, but it will perform better, longer.
 
I've never had the opportunity to shoot beyond 300 yards with this rifle. At 100 yards, I have had one group at 1/2" and the majority are 3/4" @ 100. The few times I have shot at 300 yards, the groups measured 2.875" on average. I am enjoying the precision shooting gig and would like to maybe (eventually) enter some local matches at a gun club. Consistent 1/2 MOA groups would be nice. I actually like the 700 action and there are plenty of builders who still use it and claim to achieve sub 0.5 MOA groups. I'm sure the Surgeon and McMillan actions are nice, but for now...it's gonna end up a trued R700.

This is not a world class Remington factory rifle by any means. I shoot it off the bi-pod and off a Caldwell Lead Sled DFT. The barrel seems to be a bit inconsistent, even when I do my part. All of my 'test' groups that I actually measure are with FGMM 168.

I want to get the most accuracy out of this rifle as possible. I do plan on having a customer built (GAP, Surgeon, etc.) .260 Rem built within the next few years. However, I have no intentions of selling this .308 and am willing to dump a little over $1000 to squeeze just a bit more accuracy and consistency out of it.
 
Go with some reloading gear if you don't have it already. I have the same rifle in an aics stock and its doing between 1/2 and 5/8" groups, and I think I can get it better with some load tuning. I had the same debate with myself about re barreling, but I've decided to Waite and buy a custom action with a Remington foot print so my other stuff will work and keep the Remington factory. They are hard to beat for an out of the box gun, less the stock.
 
My grandson is currently shooting his aac. As his marksmanship improved I moved to the following improvements:

1. Timney trigger
2. Had a Badger bolt knob installed.
3. Detachable magazine.

His rifle is riding in a Manners stock, I had left over from upgrade I did to one of my rifles.

I would strongly recommend trying 175 FGMM. His rifle eats it like candy. I have worked up several handloads for him, as his shooting develops. Like others have said, invest in reloading equipment, and I would shoot the barrel till used up.
 
My grandson is currently shooting his aac. As his marksmanship improved I moved to the following improvements:

1. Timney trigger
2. Had a Badger bolt knob installed.
3. Detachable magazine.

His rifle is riding in a Manners stock, I had left over from upgrade I did to one of my rifles.

I would strongly recommend trying 175 FGMM. His rifle eats it like candy. I have worked up several handloads for him, as his shooting develops. Like others have said, invest in reloading equipment, and I would shoot the barrel till used up.

+1 on trying the 175gr FGMM. My .260 was originally an AAC-SD and it seemed to eat the 175's better than the 168's. It's worth a shot at least. If it tightens your groups up some, it's a hell of a lot cheaper than some of your other options.

And get a new trigger for sure. The factory X Mark Pro trigger that came on mine would not adjust below 7 tons. A properly adjusted trigger can make an enormous difference in accuracy.
 
Before you change the barrel and true up the action, try just changing the trigger first. No matter how good all that may be, it's not going to change how well you shoot. Train with a new trigger and see how it affects your groups. As everyone mentioned, play with different loads, then dump some money into the barrel and action.
 
Thanks for the solid advice guys. Since the majority of my funds have recently gone to a 6.8 SPC 18" AR15 SPR (that shoots just as tight as my .308 BTW) I think I am going to wait on the trueing and re-barreling. Still going to get the Timney trigger and will hunt for some FGMM 175s. I have tried the PNW Arms 175 SMK and it is the second most accurate out of my rifle. Not far behind the FGMM 168s at all.