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Gunsmithing Help me figure out what I did wrong.

wallace11bravo

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
May 5, 2010
77
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Lincoln, NE
www.mwts-training.com
Sorry for the long post in advance.

Did a duracoat 3 color digital camoflage pattern on two pieces of a synthetic stock, at the same time. Here were my steps:

Disassemble
Clean
Degrease (wore gloves from here on out)
Heat (to ensure degreasing was good)
Blast with 120grit Alum Ox at 80 psi
blow off

Sprayed all coats with 0.8mm hvlp @ 20psi with flow rate about 15%, ratio 12:1. No less than 15 min between coats. Waited no less than 3 hours after last color to apply next set of templates and spray. 3 coats of each color(keeping in mind that it takes 3 coats to get a solid color). Waited 24hrs after final color to remove templates. Paint booth has exhaust fan, and heat lamps that are left on between coats and colors, if that makes any difference.

Here is the kicker: I removed templates, and they would take the duracoat with them, sometimes from underneath, sometimes from the edges. They would always take all of it down to the original surface.

Here is the real kicker: it only did this on one of the peices. It was a folding stock, and the buttstock came out fine other than one tiny barely noticeable spot where it did take some DC with it. The rest of the stock is scrap, it peeled off everywhere. I've already reblasted it and am getting ready to start again.

I used M3 painters tape with wax paper to make the stencils, I am thinking I will try some automotive painters tape next. A little less tacky, hopefully will help. Any suggestions would be awesome. As you can imagine, it was very frustrating to have this happen after all that time put in, and any tips that will prevent me from frocking it up this time would be great.

i.e. did I wait too long to pull the templates? not long enough? etc?

FYI, I will be putting a final coat of clear matte once everything is done.

Also, this is not my first time DC, I have done several weapons, just not with stick on templates. Closest thing would be a scope where I taped off dials and markings, it came out great.
 
Re: Help me figure out what I did wrong.

There was a similar thread here not to long ago. I think there is a lot of variables to cover here, but it sounds like its still a surface prep issue if its taking it all off in spots. Did you wipe it down with decrease after you blasted it? What decrease? I've been wiping everything off with the duracoat degreaser and not had an issue. I've not used stencils per say, but have done color over laying with tape on the original color. I would increase your dry time between coats or decrease thickness of coats. I typically try to give 30min to a hour between coats depending on temps. Most of the time I'll give it multiple hours from last coat to tape removal and not have any issues, but I will also try to give 2-3hrs before taping an area. I use 3m green automotive tape and 3m blue fine line tape for small lines/areas. I don't know, as I'm not a certified duracoat application, but I've had good luck doing it this way and have even shot paint in 40-50* situations with good results. Lengthen dry time and have paint/metal at same temp if you do this.
 
Re: Help me figure out what I did wrong.

Used O'reillies brand non-chlorinated, non-residue brake cleaner. It has always worked well before. Did not degrease after blasting, but my blast chamber is sterile, nothing goes in there without being degreased. Same way I have done half a dozen other weapons with nothing but outstanding results.

I do think I may have layed on the final color a little thick, to ensure total coverage. Definetly could have contributed. Do you think I should switch to an airbrush after initial color to gain more control of thickness?

Getting a tank for degreasing and parkerizing made now... can't wait till it is done.
 
Re: Help me figure out what I did wrong.

Well sounds like surface prep is covered really. Since you haven't changed anything other then the fact that you're stenciling now, I'd guess its either dry time or too thick. An airbrush would allow better control, I would suspect, but I also use an hvlp. I do use a small "touch up" version which helps, but its an hvlp non the less. I can fine tune it more then my larger hvlp guns, so I'm sure it helps. My plan would be to use an airbrush if I gets the guts to stencil, but I wouldn't think it to be a necessity. I'm planning on ordering some stencils with my next duracoat order and practicing on an old unused stock that I have. I guess I can tell you after that. Itrader seems to be common from what I've read that its dry time and thickness that gets a guy, according to those that are certified pros.
 
Re: Help me figure out what I did wrong.

I haven't tried any camo patterns with Duracoat yet, but being this type of thread pops up now and then ..... I'm thinking when I do, I'll wait a full day for each coat to cure before adding new stencils.
 
Re: Help me figure out what I did wrong.

Came out great this time. 24hr wait between colors and green automotive tape for stencils. The tape was definetly harder to work with, just required more attention to detail, as it would try to peel back off on it's own, and didn't like to let go of the wax paper. Just finished putting the clear coat on, and it definetly looks good!
 
Re: Help me figure out what I did wrong.

Pictures? Please
smile.gif
 
Re: Help me figure out what I did wrong.

As requested:





I always wait a full week before reassembly, so she wont be all back together til after xmas prolly. It is just a practice weapon, I plan on keeping it as is for a display rifle.

Colors are what I happened to have on hand: Russian army brown, OD green, Vltor FDE, and matte clear coat. The rest of the weapon was done in FDE with OD netting, no clear coat. You can see it in the corner of the pic.
 
Re: Help me figure out what I did wrong.

One thing to consider is that even though your cabinet is only blasting clean items, it can still get some oil from the air compressor...unless you are running a filter.