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How Accurate Is Your 10/22?

Kwfranklin88

Sergeant of the Hide
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 11, 2020
168
30
Alabama
I ended up with a Ruger precision rimfire. My 9 year old loves shooting it but it’s hard for him to work the bolt and maneuver the rifle.

I’m thinking about building him a budget 10/22 plinker. I have always wanted to put one together and it would be a good project for us to do.

I was thinking about using the brownells action, green mountain barrel, bx trigger and Kidd small parts.

What kind of accuracy should I expect out of a budget build like this? Would it be better than a factory 10/22? Would I be better off buying a factory 10/22 and just swapping out the stock?

Thanks! Any advice is greatly appreciated!
 
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Good afternoon,
This was shot yesterday with a 10/22 carbine barrel and receiver in a Titan Co stock and Kidd single stage 2# trigger at 50 yards with CCI SV. I'm sure the Green Mountain barrel will do much better. I am building this for when my kiddo gets old enough and the original mag release where you had to dig into the stock and try and release the mag I felt was an accident waiting to happen. The Kidd trigger group fixed that with a better mag release. I plan on ordering a Kidd Ultralight weight barrel soon too.

Semper Fidelis,
Aaron
 
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Good afternoon,
This was shot yesterday with a 10/22 carbine barrel and receiver in a Titan Co stock and Kidd single stage 2# trigger at 50 yards with CCI SV. I'm sure the Green Mountain barrel will do much better. I am building this for when my kiddo gets old enough and the original mag release where you had to dig into the stock and try and release the mag I felt was an accident waiting to happen. The Kidd trigger group fixed that with a better mag release. I plan on ordering a Kidd Ultralight weight barrel soon too.

Semper Fidelis,
Aaron
Wow that’s not bad at all! I thought a factory barrel would be somewhere around 1.5 moa at best. Good shooting!
 
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Some experts will jump me for this but here iI go anyway.

Buy a new or better yet used 10/22 as is.

Let them shoot it as is. Take pictures each time.
Stock will probably need cut but not till one attempt to shoot.

It's a reward system after that set them a goal to get a nice stock to replace the hacksaw job you lovingly did.

Shoot / reward one step at a time and let the child see effects of each upgrade that they "earned" .

They will learn more about the rifle and have a goal that you can make fun.

When the kid outruns that set a goal for the super grade stuff new gun.

Imho
 
Wow that’s not bad at all! I thought a factory barrel would be somewhere around 1.5 moa at best. Good shooting!

Thanks for the compliment! Average for the 6 groups was .766" at 50 yards so it is around 1.5 MOA. Temp was 32F with switching light gusts, very tricky to catch the right wind. The lower left group the wind got me twice, once in both directions. The lower right group's two fliers were me rushing shots to get the right wind break and slapped the trigger. The upper right group looks like 4 holes but I SWEAR there's a fifth one there. The back of the backer board one of the exit holes is just a bit bigger than the rest, so... maybe that's it. I'm still ordering the Kidd barrel just because, and it will be threaded.
 
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100 yards cci standard velocity kidd 20 inch victor stock, brimstone trigger s+b pm 2 5x25.Shoots much better with lapua center x will post pics when I get home the new case should be there when I get home.
 

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All measurements were taken with a micrometer outside to outside at the longest points no deductions.
 
100 yards cci standard velocity kidd 20 inch victor stock, brimstone trigger s+b pm 2 5x25.Shoots much better with lapua center x will post pics when I get home the new case should be there when I get home.
Awesome! Thanks! Good shooting!
 
Thanks for the compliment! Average for the 6 groups was .766" at 50 yards so it is around 1.5 MOA. Temp was 32F with switching light gusts, very tricky to catch the right wind. The lower left group the wind got me twice, once in both directions. The lower right group's two fliers were me rushing shots to get the right wind break and slapped the trigger. The upper right group looks like 4 holes but I SWEAR there's a fifth one there. The back of the backer board one of the exit holes is just a bit bigger than the rest, so... maybe that's it. I'm still ordering the Kidd barrel just because, and it will be threaded.
That’s still impressive for factory barrel! Thanks!
 
Got to keep on mind that the op used the word budget.
 
(QUOTE="Spicerack, post: 8330623, member: 94255"]
What distance? 100 yards
[/QUOTE]
 
Best thing about 10-22 you can piece them together as your budget allows, from mild to wild.Shop around and you can save money.I have 4 10-22s all different but all fun to shoot.
 
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I picked up a Ruger 10-22 maybe 15 years ago. Used gun from a fellow in south Texas. It has a stock heavy profile barrel and a nice stock. Had a cheap Tasco scope on it and got it for a little less then $400. I know it seemed high but I thought it was in real nice shape. Turned out to be a tack driver with Wolf match target. I shot these groups about three weeks ago researching ammo.

I probably just lucked into a good rifle but I am a believer in the little 10-22.

PS groups are shot at 50yrds
 

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I'm getting just under 1 MOA at 50 yds with a Brownells 10/22 receiver, all stock Ruger internals except the better Ruger BX trigger, Shaw 18" bull barrel. If I do any upgrades, I'm thinking about the KIDD bolt (~$100) and a KIDD 20" bull barrel ($200) which has a 1/2 MOA guarantee.
 
My *mostly* KIDD 10/22 can shoot sub MOA at 50, but opens up at 100. But that's to be expected with the insanely inconsistent velocities a semi-auto produces.
 
+1 on shaw barrel mine is moa or a little less some days with cci standard trigger upgrade and upgraded stock.

Bushnell scope.

None of the parts are "top tier".

And truth be told neither are my skills.
 
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The Ruger 10/22 Competition Model can be found usually selling for about $599-650. For that price, it's pretty nice quality. Has the BX Trigger Control, a nicer receiver and bolt, and a tighter barrel (had issues extracting live ammo, so much tighter chamber). Double action screws to prevent wobble.

Out of the box at 100 yards. This was done back last August when I first got it. It shoots better now, and I can consistently hold it under an inch at 100 yards.

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Brownells receiver, Kidd innovations trigger, Fj fedderson barrel. Magpul shit stock. Knockoff atlas bipod. Cci suppressor ammo, bushnell engage scope
 

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I had a 10-22 sitting around. Kidd trigger and barrel put it in a Boyd’s Pro varmit. Had CPC do the bolt. Cost added up quick shoots lights out but was close to a full Kidd build Look for a used 10-22 basket case. Have Randy at CPC to make the guts right (trigger headspace and bolt) put a Federson barrel on it and cut the stock to fit him. Make it a project you guys can do together. Till you buy a Brownells receiver pay shipping and transfer still have to get all the parts price will put you very close to a full custom. The factory bolt is about the same price as a Kidd bolt.
 
After using two 10/22's this past year in benchrest competitions, I noticed something that surprised me regarding barrels.

My favorite rig has the OEM receiver, 20" KIDD barrel, KIDD bolt, KIDD trigger and Victor Titan stock.

My 2nd rig is identical, but it runs an 18" Green Mountain barrel.

When comparing my average monthly score with each rifle, my GM barrel was nearly identical in performance to my KIDD.
 
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I have an old volquartsen Deluxe that shoots pretty well, I typically just shoot it with wolf match as I don't gain much with higher dollar stuff out of it, at least not enough to shoot the higher $ stuff much.

Here's some recent 5 round groups at 50 with wolf match on the left target, not throwing the first hand charged round into the dirt as some do with 10/22's. There was a couple bad shots on my part and also some left/right breeze, I was not bearing down too hard watching the wind, just trying to shoot and A -vs- B with the gun that shot the very disappointing right target (JP barrel/bolt kit).

One thing I've found is that the ammo that shoots the best groups at 50, might not at 100.

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My 10/22 shoots just as good or better than my Tikka but for some reason I don't shoot it very often.
20" Shilen barrel
Power Custom Match bolt
Kidd charging spring and handle
Brownells receiver
Volquartsen trigger group
Tony Mele Avenger stock
Cabela's covenant 4 scope
Here are few 100 yard 5 shot groups with Center X, SK flatnose match and long range match.
 

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Has anyone seen any improvement on barrel length past 16 inches on these 10/22 rifles, or is the 22lr just slowing down at that point like people say
 
Has anyone seen any improvement on barrel length past 16 inches on these 10/22 rifles, or is the 22lr just slowing down at that point like people say

Per Vudoo, they noticed no significant difference between velocity and accuracy from a 16 to a 20 inch barrel. They said it is more a matter of preference.

I don't see why it would be any different for a 10/22.

I have a 20" KIDD and an 18" GM. On my target faces, I could not tell one from the other.
 
.22 lr uses all it's energy long before 16" and you'll begin to lose speed with longer barrels. There also seems to be no accuracy improvements beyond 20". The .22 is also very slow, relatively, and the dwell time in longer barrels may affect accuracy negatively from user input while the bullet is still in the barrel.
 
I wish I had a very long 10/22 barrel and a lathe sitting at an inside 50yd range with lab radar, a brick of cci sv.

Cut, crown, clean assemble and shoot, film the whole thing.

At least at one point, maybe two the accuracy will hit max.

The velocity will speed up and if you keep going eventually slow.
It may not happen at a legal 16inches so would need disposed of as a mistake?

I am in the same camp as @Jefe's Dope .

My best case scenario would be cut crown and thread, test with can installed.
 
I've been able to get at least a dozen 10/22's thrown together that shot extremely well. They'd run right with some bolt guns of mine. The problem is they won't do it for long. Within a couple hundred rounds, they get gummed up and need cleaned in order to perform well again. It's not hard to keep one shooting half inch to 3/4" at 50yds. Keeping one shooting in the .3's or better requires TONS of maintenance. Much more than I'm willing to do.
 
I wish I had a very long 10/22 barrel and a lathe sitting at an inside 50yd range with lab radar, a brick of cci sv.

Cut, crown, clean assemble and shoot, film the whole thing.

At least at one point, maybe two the accuracy will hit max.

The velocity will speed up and if you keep going eventually slow.
It may not happen at a legal 16inches so would need disposed of as a mistake?

I am in the same camp as @Jefe's Dope .

My best case scenario would be cut crown and thread, test with can installed.

Here ya go.


 
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I've been able to get at least a dozen 10/22's thrown together that shot extremely well. They'd run right with some bolt guns of mine. The problem is they won't do it for long. Within a couple hundred rounds, they get gummed up and need cleaned in order to perform well again. It's not hard to keep one shooting half inch to 3/4" at 50yds. Keeping one shooting in the .3's or better requires TONS of maintenance. Much more than I'm willing to do.
I know this post is old, but would you care to share a summary of the maintenance regimen? I have a Kidd that was knocking my socks off with sub-moa 10 shot groups out to 150 yards with center x over the course of ~ 300 rounds getting ready for a match and by the time the match was over things had really started to slip. When I got home it’s shooting closer to 2 moa in nearly identical atmospheric conditions and any mechanical variables already ruled out. Appreciate any insight you’re willing to share.
 
I ended up with a Ruger precision rimfire. My 9 year old loves shooting it but it’s hard for him to work the bolt and maneuver the rifle.

I’m thinking about building him a budget 10/22 plinker. I have always wanted to put one together and it would be a good project for us to do.

I was thinking about using the brownells action, green mountain barrel, bx trigger and Kidd small parts.

What kind of accuracy should I expect out of a budget build like this? Would it be better than a factory 10/22? Would I be better off buying a factory 10/22 and just swapping out the stock?

Thanks! Any advice is greatly appreciated!

You can get a Kidd Supergrade complete barreled for around $600, less the trigger. Same price as the Slip fit action. The best thing about the Kidd actions, is the rear anchor, now you have 2 action bolt instead of one. I dropped my barreled action into a Titan stock with titans rear anchor. My Supergrade will shoot sub moa out to 200 yds. The Kidd 2 stage trigger is the best 10-22 made, but they will cost you. look at what you will spend compared to the Kidd.
Mark
 
I know this post is old, but would you care to share a summary of the maintenance regimen? I have a Kidd that was knocking my socks off with sub-moa 10 shot groups out to 150 yards with center x over the course of ~ 300 rounds getting ready for a match and by the time the match was over things had really started to slip. When I got home it’s shooting closer to 2 moa in nearly identical atmospheric conditions and any mechanical variables already ruled out. Appreciate any insight you’re willing to share.

Scrub the chamber of the barrel - probably a carbon ring causing the issues.

Take a look at Gunsmither Tools brand Brush n' Mop chamber tool. They have a video posted as well.
 
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I had a 10-22 sitting around. Kidd trigger and barrel put it in a Boyd’s Pro varmit. Had CPC do the bolt. Cost added up quick shoots lights out but was close to a full Kidd build Look for a used 10-22 basket case. Have Randy at CPC to make the guts right (trigger headspace and bolt) put a Federson barrel on it and cut the stock to fit him. Make it a project you guys can do together. Till you buy a Brownells receiver pay shipping and transfer still have to get all the parts price will put you very close to a full custom. The factory bolt is about the same price as a Kidd bolt.
I second the CPC tune, Randy makes 10/22’s shoot bugholes for cheap too. https://www.ct-precision.com/ Mine is a bone stock target model with just a full tuneup and it has impressed a lot of people. The action is so smooth now my 6yr old can run the bolt. Eley Target and Force 5 shots at 50yrds. No cherry picking I just shot group after group. 10shots at 50yrds CCI standard. The KRG Bravo has a really short length of pull. I like the Victor Titan I bought it’s very ridged.
 

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I've shot a lot of 10/22s, and with the right ammunition, could get 1/2" groups at 50 yards, also, same gun with bulk ammunition it doesn't like, more like 2" at 50 yards
 
I have a full KIDD rifle and two with Voquortsen barrels. All three are 1/2" guns with various match ammo. On any given day one will out shoot the other two. I haven't shot any with bulk or HV ammo to amount to any measurable results.
 
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I think the easiest option is to buy a factory Ruger 10/22 in the barrel configuration and stock option that best fits one desires and send it off to CPC for his ultimate tune up.
Trigger you can either get Randy to work your stock trigger, opt to put a Kidd drop in trigger kit into the stock housing or go with the BX trigger which will be the cheapest option of the three.

Depending on the model you choose to buy initially you can end up with a total of around $550 invested in a 10/22 that you know is set up right and everything is true minus any optics of course.

On other more rimfire oriented forums CPC's work and performance of the rifles he has smiled upon is backed by testimony after testimony of happy customers of his work at a very reasonable price.

If I were going to invest the time and money into building a 10/22 with aftermarket parts it would be using Kidd parts as they do offer a guaranteed 1/2" 5 shot group guarantee on all their barrels except the very lightest UL offerings.

Also many aftermarket receivers are hit and miss when it comes to the tightness of the barrel fitting into the receiver which leads to barrel droop and less than stellar accuracy and barrel alignment.
Kidd receivers are very strict to the exacting size of the barrel channel and with Kidd barrels offer a solid resistance fit on their classic slip fit models.

If you figure your total investment in assembling a 10/22 then trying to save a $100 or less on the receiver in the build is one of the worst places to make cost cuts.

A classic Kidd complete barreled action including receiver, bolt, charging handle, 0 moa scope rail and 20"stainless bull or 16.5 ultra light barrel and v-block, buffer, receiver pins and takedown screw can be had for between $717-$723 depending on barrel choice.

Take a stock Ruger trigger housing and install one of the Kidd drop in trigger kits and you have a complete Kidd based barreled action for less than $850 sans tax and shipping charges and of course the price of the stock of your choice.

I realize this thread is brought back from the dead but this information for anyone thinking about a 10/22 it still can be helpful.
 
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I have a full KIDD rifle and two with Voquortsen barrels. All three are 1/2" guns with various match ammo. On any given day one will out shoot the other two. I haven't shot any with bulk or HV ammo to amount to any measurable results.
My Volquartsen “sniper” conversion will shoot MOA with SK high velocity match, and Eley Force at 100 yards. Others I’ve tried, not so much
 
I own two Ruger 10/22's, one produced in 1970, the other is from 2007-ish +/-. Both are bone stock rifles.

The 1970 model will shoot one hole groups at 50 yards with 40gr CCI Mini-mags, which it seems to like the best of any ammo I've shot through it.

The 2007-ish model isn't nearly as accurate and could probably use some upgrades.

Either one is minute-o-Red-Squirrel, which is primarily what they are used to dispatch. I fucking hate those destructive MFers.
 
The 1970 model will shoot one hole groups at 50 yards

The 2007-ish model isn't nearly as accurate and could probably use some upgrades.
I do know that sometime in the earlier 2000's Ruger made some changes in their barrel manufacturing process but it could have been after 2007 and it is claimed the later model barrels are actually supposed to be better than the earlier production barrels.

Current production it seems that the Ruger LVT (light varmint target) models with the LVT heavier taper barrels are supposed to be one of the better stock barreled models available overall as far as performance/accuracy goes and available at a price of under $350 new.

Your 2007 gun sounds like a good candidate for CPC though, check out his services and it may make that gun a shooter as well.

 
That date is an estimate only. I don't feel like dragging everything out of the safe to get to this one in the back and check the serial.

One of the many reasons I'm building a gun vault. Soon I'll be able to walk in, pull one off the wall and examine / shoot it.

Thanks.
 
Scrub the chamber of the barrel - probably a carbon ring causing the issues.

Take a look at Gunsmither Tools brand Brush n' Mop chamber tool. They have a video posted as well.
In 22’s the carbon ring is a misnomer. It’s a Lead ring
 
I do know that sometime in the earlier 2000's Ruger made some changes in their barrel manufacturing process but it could have been after 2007 and it is claimed the later model barrels are actually supposed to be better than the earlier production barrels.

Current production it seems that the Ruger LVT (light varmint target) models with the LVT heavier taper barrels are supposed to be one of the better stock barreled models available overall as far as performance/accuracy goes and available at a price of under $350 new.

Your 2007 gun sounds like a good candidate for CPC though, check out his services and it may make that gun a shooter as well.

Randy at CPC told me those factory Ruger light varmint barrels turn out very accurate. I love mine it’s a sleeper, definitely get the full Monty the trigger is outstanding.
 

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Randy at CPC told me those factory Ruger light varmint barrels turn out very accurate. I love mine it’s a sleeper, definitely get the full Monty the trigger is outstanding.
That's not an LVT barrel, that's a "Target" barrel. The LVT barrels are tapered, Target barrels are .920 straight...you can also pick them out of a crowd with the exterior "spiral".

My 10/22 Target* for comparison:
Yukon-grass.JPG

*Ruger factory "Target" barrel, receiver and bolt.