How do you note your rifles current zero setting when storing a rifle?

[ClangClang]

I see where I went wrong in terminology - I used 'zeroing rifle for yardage' vs 'zeroing scope for yardage'

Nah. Stop using "zeroing" as your verb. Thats why everyone is having fun in this thread. Zeroing is the wrong word.

You zero your rifle once, then you're done zeroing (until you change your ammo, etc). After that, you're DIALING.

If you want to keep your scope dialed with your 600 yard drop, that's fine. Most people are telling you it's a bad idea and have explained why, but if you really want to keep it dialed to 600, that's your decision. Just don't call it zeroing.

 

[newageroman]

Yes but by that logic...
If I plan to shoot it only at 600
and I "zero" it to 600 - as most people would "zero" it to 100
Is it not "zeroed" at 600 just like I originally said?

If I NEVER touch the elevation dial and just hold elevation that I know is true, wouldn't I be "zeroed @600" instead of "dialing to 600"? It seems like that would be more accurate terminology for my application. If I were going back and forth between 600 and 100 that would make sense, but that is not my order of operations.

I always start with the 600yd hold under on the large 4'x4' plate to confirm where it is "zeroed" before shooting at the 600yd berms.
It has a YUGE flappy flag that I put around the scope that reads "600 yd zero" so between that and the Hold under at the big plate at 100, its pretty hard to miss.

Now this may just blows some of ya'lls minds - I know, try to be prepared...
but last year I had 3 different rifles "zeroed" at 3 different yardages, 600/750/1000 and would use the same setup with minimal problems.
My bullets being pushed around by the wind a little more than usual on last range visit is what prompted this question.

 

[Conaso]

"You guys are relentless smart access (sic). Ahhh, Grasshopper, "The man who asks a question is a fool for a minute, the man who does not ask is a fool for life. (Confucius)

All my centerfires are zeroed for 100 yards. The exceptions are:
22 Hornet and rimfires - 50 yards
6.8 SPC AR - zeroed for 1¾" high at 100 yards, which is a 200-yard zero based upon MPBR hunting in heavily wooded AO.
I always ensure all firearms are returned to zero when returned to the safe.

'I may be wrong, but I am never in doubt! And anyone who has been around me for even a minute understands that my self-confidence and self-esteem is sometimes overwhelming!" (Dan Pena)

 

[roostercogburn98]

Is this still available

 

[Bacarrat]

It is too late to delete this.

 

[johnnycat]

Even if you are only shooting 600 yards, you should still zero at 100 yards and dial to 600.

If you are afraid that you will be dialing too much, put a 10moa rail on the rifle. Then you won't have to dial as much. Be careful to match your turrets though - if you use a 10moa rail and you're scope is mil/mil you will need to change the turrets to moa.

 

[Ronin22]

Football bat

 

[supercorndogs]

View attachment 8685183

It's good enough. I am running out of shells.

 

[hlee]

Even if you are only shooting 600 yards, you should still zero at 100 yards and dial to 600.

If you are afraid that you will be dialing too much, put a 10moa rail on the rifle. Then you won't have to dial as much. Be careful to match your turrets though - if you use a 10moa rail and you're scope is mil/mil you will need to change the turrets to moa.

Whether you have a 0 moa rail, a 10 moa rail, or a 40 moa rail, the amount of drop- and thus the amount you must dial or hold- remains constant. A sloped rail just moves the zero so that you have more adjustment available.

(I just realized that this may be in jest. But, the OP is sufficiently confused that I’m going to leave it anyway.)

 

[Thump_rrr]

How do you note the current zero yardage of your rifle when storing it between range days?
For instance:
If I take my 6.5 hottness and confirm zero @100yds then go to 600 and 100yds banging steel, when the day is should I pull out all the wind and elevation and leave it at 100yds Zero?
Or do you leave it at the 600yd zero or 1000yd zero? (which is my preference but does not account for changing wind)
I normally leave mine zeroed @ 600 elevation and whatever wind hold I had remaining.
But I was thinking that this "stored setting" is also related to the amount of wind on that day shooting 600, and the temperature of that day at 600 and so on...
So technically it would be more accurate to at the end of the day go back to 100yds with Zero elevation and wind (basically take out the environmental conditions that existed at range last time)
When leaving it at 600, on my next range visit I just do a hold under value to confirm yardage at 100 plate (disregard wind), then start shooting at the 600 berm.

So do ya'll just go back to zero each time? or note what yardage(and possibly wind, temp etc..) it is left zeroed for?

In the picture below you will see a piece of Coroplast attached to my Mag Block along with a Pica Dry pencil and a sharpie.
I use paracord and a quick release clip so I can leave the mag block in place and take the coroplast.
At the start of the day I write down all the distances and my estimated dope using Strelok or Applied Ballistics in sharpie.
During my walk back I will write down any changes in pencil.

Some guys laminate their dope cards.