Re: How do you torque down AICS stock bolts?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: SuppressorJunkie</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Thats a pain the take the skins off just for that! Get this patent pending AI tool I came up with down at the pawn shop...Go over to the crap tool section and find a decent looking hex wrech of the longer variety then find a decent 1/4 drive 3/16 socket...I showed the guy at the counter that I would like to purchase these items and he felt it wasnt worth enough to even charge me for them plus they are both snap-on tools but it didnt really matter but OK Ill take it!...So I took my bounty home and placed the nice factory rounded head of the long end of the hex wrench into my chassis to choose a length then cut it off with a dremel tool. I set the rifle in the corner and inserted the now 3/16 hex rod into chassis mounting bolt, mixed up some JB weld and kneaded into both socket and fresh cut rod end, then mated them BUT! since there is just the slightest play between socket and rod and its not the best scenario to torque with crazy long stupid crooked bowed out extensions(You will wont get proper torque for settings but I think you are allowed a u-joint but no more than 45 degrees and every angle you are off 90 changes torque value a small percentage) I placed my little 1/4 driver on so the weight of the handle cause the teeth in to socket to heel toe up. I let it cure in the corner, in the rifle over night and its straight as an arrow and stays in my Borka tools SRA kit...worth every bit of free ninety free and works great for me
Chris </div></div>
I have an AI and and a custom Rem 700 in an AICS. The side panels or "skins" or whatever you want to call them are easy and not a pita to remove whatsoever, maybe its just me. For the sake of a few seconds, I dont think its necessary to buy an extra tool. If you gots the cash to dish out, fill your boots.