CHOOTER,
First off, it all depends on the can make and design.
But generally its mostly for pistol caliber cans (handguns and MG), rarely for rifle caliber cans (hydraulic lock = bad).
For a .22 best to use a lighter oil, sprayed in with a thin tip. .
And....as far as the gels go, be advised clear gels are ok, but there are plenty of them that are not and will load you can with crap that can get hard as a rock.
As an example a double wall design was never meant to run wet and pressures can build.
Then there are the high alcohol brands...read the label.
And then, its about 10cc as stated BUT its all about how you put it in.
From the rear with the majority load mid can, tapering off the closer to the blast chamber you go.
Use the right tool and it works, load from the muzzle and overload and its a mess.
Do not load the last, muzzle end, chambers for a whole host of reasons.
Ablative use was always meant to deliver three or four remarkably quiet shots...not as a long lasting afair.
Here is an old graphic and the "where and how".
I use lithium, properly loaded, there are few as long lasting.
Gets the "thud" than water and light gels cannot deliver.
Lithium will never harden, last the longest, protects the internal and still liquifiers with the heat allowing for forward purge in a well designed can.
A wet can by design allows for a much smaller package but will run loader when dry.
Good luck.