• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

  • The site has been updated!

    If you notice any issues, please let us know below!

    VIEW THREAD

How often can you reload Federal Brass for 300 win

Sundevilnick

Supporter
Supporter
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 20, 2019
134
19
Just got thru about 100 rounds of new factory Federal brass and want to reload it. Before I get into the reloading game want to know realistically how many times I can reload the brass. Also should I wait until I get through 200 rounds to make it more economical. Thanks
 
I have 4x reloads on my federal brass @75.5 grains of H1000 and a 220 smk. I use the Willis belt sizing die on each case every other reload. So far the primer pockets are still tight and haven’t had to do anything else.

How hard do you run the rifle? Will you be loading to pressure?
 
I have 4x reloads on my federal brass @75.5 grains of H1000 and a 220 smk. I use the Willis belt sizing die on each case every other reload. So far the primer pockets are still tight and haven’t had to do anything else.

How hard do you run the rifle? Will you be loading to pressure?
Thanks for the info! I don’t run it to hard I have been running 200 ELD-X precision hunter @ 2850fps. Looking to go with 208 ELD’s or 220’s Smith with the close to the same muzzle velocity. Thanks for the load info for the 220’s
 
  • Like
Reactions: nn8734
You’re welcome!

I’m switching to either the 215 Bergers or 225 ELDMs once my Mk13’s re-barrel is finished. It will depend on what my rifle ends up liking more.

Will you be full length sizing neck sizing?
 
You’re welcome!

I’m switching to either the 215 Bergers or 225 ELDMs once my Mk13’s re-barrel is finished. It will depend on what my rifle ends up liking more.

Will you be full length sizing neck sizing?
My buddy has all the reloading tools setup and he do full length sizing reloads. I know there is a big full vs neck sizing debate but I will go with what he has since I am a newbie to this and see how it goes. Do you full length or neck size.
 
I full length size all my brass with Redding dies to .001 of chamber head space (I.e so the bolt has only the very slightest of resistance when closing on the case). I measure all the cases with a headspace gauge to determine if I am within my spec limit. If neck sizing, I recommend using a bushing die to ensure concentricity is under control. Also helps with controlling neck tension.

After sizing, I let the brass sit overnight and re-measure headspace for all of them the next day or so (appx 3-5% of cases have to run through the sizing die again as the brass sometimes “springs back”)

Then I prime and charge them. Before firing, I measure the case head just above the extractor groove (for belted mags, just above the belt). Then I measure again after firing. If the diameter increase is less than .001, I know I can move up .5 grain if I need to (ie MV is too low or SD is too high). If at .001 or even .0015 larger diameter vs unfired, I know I am at “pressure” and shouldn't go any more on the charge weight. At two thousands (.002) expansion I am at the absolute max charge weight before brass life devolves to 1x and pressures are bordering on dangerous. You start seeing flattened primers, ejector marks on the head, etc at that point).

I wouldn’t marry yourself to Fed brass. .300 win mag sees a lot of variance in case capacity between manufacturers so if Fed doesn’t work (you are hitting pressure too soon with a given charge weight) try Winchester or Norma. They have higher case capacity so should have a little more room for power charge increase.
 
I have used the following brass in my .300: Remington, Norma, Hornady and RWS. The RWS is about the most robust, although the capacity is somewhat lower due to that. The Hornady is about the least, as it seems somewhat soft. I’ve concentrated on using the Norma for the 225eld and the RP for the 208amax/ELDm. I shoulder bump with a Forster collet die and also run them thru the Willis die after every 2 loads. So far so good. There are a few threads in the reloading sections on the 208 and 225 if you want some more info. I drive the 225s a little harder than the 208s, but neither is ridiculous. I find that the little additional performance isn’t worth the wear and tear on the gun, or the brass. In the end...what are you getting...maybe a few less drop past 1000yds?? Anyhow, that’s my opinion anyway.

I have found that the Hornady bullets out perform the Berger’s in my particular rifle. It’s been shot with both. I’ve never toyed with the SMks however. Have fun, use caution, and listen to what the rifle is telling you when you load.
 
Like any case, brass life is a result of several factors... How long your headspace is on the first firing, how much you bump the shoulder back, how hot your load is.

300wm also can have sizing issues because of the stupid belt and most dies cannot size all the way to the belt