I've heard this phrase a few times and I'm not sure what to look for or even how to achieve it. does anyone run there barrels like this where they don't strip copper. if so can you point me in the right direction on how to brake in a barrel with this in mind.
- Thread starter RogueVolcom
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Just shoot it ... when you get home you can clean it then, and after that continue to shoot it without cleaning until accuracy falls off.
if it's a 308 that can 500 to 1500+ rounds between cleaning.
if it's a 308 that can 500 to 1500+ rounds between cleaning.
so just a standard barrel brake in. while removing copper?
No break in... it's a waste of time.
agreed, just shoot it
thank you
I also agree with what the above guys said about barrel break in being a waste of time. When you think about what a barrel break in is supposed to accomplish it just doesn't make any sense. I've never done a barrel break in procedure, and my rifles shoot pretty darn good! And I usually only clean after a couple hundred rounds, not something I really worry about too much.
My accuracy goes south after about 300 rounds. I clean the copper fouling out with Sweets 7.62 and then it takes about 20-40 shots for it to season in again, leaving me a window of about 200 rounds of optimal copper fouling and accuracy.
But every barrel is different. Rough factory barrels tend to build up copper fouling faster. Slick, match barrels can go longer.
But every barrel is different. Rough factory barrels tend to build up copper fouling faster. Slick, match barrels can go longer.
Thanks guys. I have a Schneider barrel. So I will see how it looks when it comes in
How does copper equilibrium work with a polygonal rifling?
If it takes you 20-40 rounds to get your accuracy back you have an issue with the barrel.
Nope, no issue and nothing wrong with my barrel. It's just a rough factory barrel is all.
If you clean out every speck of copper, accuracy will slowly come back after several rounds, achieving optimal copper fouling after about 20 rounds or so, maybe a few less … in my rifle, at least.
In this case you clean / decopper too much.
When accuracy goes south, I clean out the copper. No sooner, no later. Haven't had an issue.
I'm not trying to sound repetitive or ignorant. But you guys are talking about polygonal rifling and not standard rifling?
That's kinda what I thought. I was not shitting on you by any means.
I was pretty anal about break-in and frequent cleaning (and still am about cleaning with one or two, like my Garand. Sometimes this subject sounds a bit like neglect; and Marines don't neglect Garands, period.). But the past few years, folks here have been touting minimal cleaning and no break-in, so I'm following their lead. Seems to work OK so far.
Greg
Greg
when you guys say "when accuracy falls off" are you confirming this with group shooting? or poor/not normal results at distance?
Cleaning the rifle when accuracy fades is fine but you may want to leave the copper in it. I made the mistake of cleaning all the copper out of my gun and it fucked it up. it took about 10 shots to come back into a nice group but ever since I cleaned out the copper my cold bore, and usually my second shot is off a bit. The more rounds I put back down it the closer that first shot is getting to point of aim but before I cleaned the copper out my cold bore was pretty much dead on. I won't be doing that shit again.
I think it really depends upon the barrel.
Some will foul very rapidly and the really good ones will foul more slowly.
I have one cheap rifle in 5.56 ( Mossberg MVP) which is basically a fun rifle. When the copper and fouling builds up in it, accuracy departs the fix in a rapid and consistent manner. It goes from 0.5 MOA to shot gun in a humping big hurry. I have to go home and clean it thoroughly.
My 308 (a plain-Jane Rem 700 5R) is good for the long haul. It just keeps on ticking. I never do a heavy copper removal on it.
I basically clean the barrel only when guilt finally drives me to this task. I don't want to ever see that barrel with a bore scope until that day when it's terminal and has to be put down for a newer barrel.
Some will foul very rapidly and the really good ones will foul more slowly.
I have one cheap rifle in 5.56 ( Mossberg MVP) which is basically a fun rifle. When the copper and fouling builds up in it, accuracy departs the fix in a rapid and consistent manner. It goes from 0.5 MOA to shot gun in a humping big hurry. I have to go home and clean it thoroughly.
My 308 (a plain-Jane Rem 700 5R) is good for the long haul. It just keeps on ticking. I never do a heavy copper removal on it.
I basically clean the barrel only when guilt finally drives me to this task. I don't want to ever see that barrel with a bore scope until that day when it's terminal and has to be put down for a newer barrel.
What happens when accuracy goes south during a match.............?????????????... You gotta know your barrel....and clean BEFORE accuracy goes south....I clean LIGHTLY ....some copper helps...I don`t want a sparkling clean barrel.. ...every couple hundred rnds.... so I don`t get caught .....with a dirty barrel that won`t shoot well..............
I have bought guns from people who didn't clean..... figured they were shot out......cleaned barrels pretty well...not all copper gone...and reduced groups by 1/2.....
bill larson
I don't shoot in matches, so I don't have that problem. But if I did, I would clean the copper out every 300 rounds fired and shoot about 20 to season it back in. I know my barrel.
I don't ever think about this subject. I clean every 300 to 400 rounds. I don't break in but do clean more often the first 200 rounds. I've gone close to 700 rounds with out problems. I clean with 3 cycles of Wipe Out Foamy cleaner. It seems to work fine and I've never had any drop off after cleaning.
I think all the talk about this subject is a mix of dogma, old habits and newbies with hopes of voodoo and black magic - might as well rub a lucky rabbits foot.
I think all the talk about this subject is a mix of dogma, old habits and newbies with hopes of voodoo and black magic - might as well rub a lucky rabbits foot.
Once you build a copper equilibrium, how do you clean the barrel without removing the copper? Do you just avoid using a copper solvent?
Do factory Savage barrels tend to go less rounds between cleanings than say an upper end aftermarket barrel? Estimated round count???
Do factory Savage barrels tend to go less rounds between cleanings than say an upper end aftermarket barrel? Estimated round count???
I have not ever seen polygonal rifling in a long gun. Only pistols. Am I missing something? A 5R considered polygonal?
schneider makes all of his 6.5 barrels in polygonal unless ask other wise
Ok so I have a question regarding this/break in.
I'm a "just shoot it" believer. But concerning load development for a brand new barrel, should I start load development right out of the new barrel or put a box or two of factory plinkers through it first?
I'm a "just shoot it" believer. But concerning load development for a brand new barrel, should I start load development right out of the new barrel or put a box or two of factory plinkers through it first?
Put a few boxes of factory ammo through it first and you shouldn't have any problems.
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Yes, definitely. My experience with a variety of savages over the past 20+ years is that they're pretty rough, and the newest ones are _very_ rough.
I run a dry boresnake through my barrel one time after a range session, that's it. I shoot nearly every weekend.
My Savage model 11 in .308 has over 1,100 rounds fired since it's last solvent cleaning, and will print sub .4" groups, better if I'm on top of my game.
I'm shooting handloaded Sierra MatchKings, exclusively.
As far as cleaning without removing the copper, simply use a product like Hoppes #9 that's not intended to remove copper.
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