What is the best way to enlarge the barrel channel on a McMillan stock... I dont have a mill but I do have a router... I thought about making a jig to hold the stock and using a bullnose bit on the router.. Any better ideas?
Gunsmithing How to Enlarge Barrel Channel
- Thread starter Westtexan
- Start date
Re: How to Enlarge Barrel Channel
Try using a dowel rod the size of your barrel and wrap it with coarse sandpaper. You can use conduit also. You can finish the channel with fine paper and repaint it. Go slow with the coarse paper and make it even. You might have to use different sizes of dowel rods to get the taper right down the barrel channel. Make sure to lock it down in a vise or something comparable. Just a Thought. Sure there are better ways.
Try using a dowel rod the size of your barrel and wrap it with coarse sandpaper. You can use conduit also. You can finish the channel with fine paper and repaint it. Go slow with the coarse paper and make it even. You might have to use different sizes of dowel rods to get the taper right down the barrel channel. Make sure to lock it down in a vise or something comparable. Just a Thought. Sure there are better ways.
Re: How to Enlarge Barrel Channel
You can also us a socket if you dont have dowel rod handy..
You can also us a socket if you dont have dowel rod handy..
Re: How to Enlarge Barrel Channel
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: VTR</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Try using a dowel rod the size of your barrel and wrap it with coarse sandpaper. You can use conduit also. You can finish the channel with fine paper and repaint it. Go slow with the coarse paper and make it even. You might have to use different sizes of dowel rods to get the taper right down the barrel channel. Make sure to lock it down in a vise or something comparable. Just a Thought. Sure there are better ways. </div></div>
That's also how I have done it in the past.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: VTR</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Try using a dowel rod the size of your barrel and wrap it with coarse sandpaper. You can use conduit also. You can finish the channel with fine paper and repaint it. Go slow with the coarse paper and make it even. You might have to use different sizes of dowel rods to get the taper right down the barrel channel. Make sure to lock it down in a vise or something comparable. Just a Thought. Sure there are better ways. </div></div>
That's also how I have done it in the past.
Re: How to Enlarge Barrel Channel
I have done it on my HS Precision with a socket and sandpaper... was just wondering because the new barrel has almost no taper and the channel will have to be enlarged about 1/8" on each side... Appreciate the comments
I have done it on my HS Precision with a socket and sandpaper... was just wondering because the new barrel has almost no taper and the channel will have to be enlarged about 1/8" on each side... Appreciate the comments
Re: How to Enlarge Barrel Channel
Nice.. appreciate it!
Nice.. appreciate it!
Re: How to Enlarge Barrel Channel
The best way I've found:
I'm fortunate to have good equipment. I make a CAD model of the barrel being fitted to the stock and then drive a surface model from the wireframe geometry.
From there a tool is assigned and feedrates/RPM is programmed. Then its a matter of loading the stock in the fixture, orienting it parallel with the X axis, finding the centerline in Y and determining my zero position.
Then I hit cycle smash and go smoke cigarettes and drink coffee while it does its thing.
About ten minutes later I check the fit and go onto the next stage of the build.
Saving money by doing it yourself is a great thing and I'll never take that from anyone. The line in the sand comes at some point though. McMillan stocks are expensive and they take a bit of time to get. Is a router at 20,000+ rpm controllable by a pair of human hands when eating fiberglass and epoxy? How well can you fixture your stock so that it doesn't move and still be able to adequately control the router as it runs along the stock?
If you have the means of accurately fixturing the piece and controlling your router then it should work. I just have a nightmarish vision of a stock between a pair of knees with a router blazing away. (-hopefully that's not your chosen path)
I wish you good luck and hope nothing gets ruined.
C
The best way I've found:
I'm fortunate to have good equipment. I make a CAD model of the barrel being fitted to the stock and then drive a surface model from the wireframe geometry.
From there a tool is assigned and feedrates/RPM is programmed. Then its a matter of loading the stock in the fixture, orienting it parallel with the X axis, finding the centerline in Y and determining my zero position.
Then I hit cycle smash and go smoke cigarettes and drink coffee while it does its thing.
About ten minutes later I check the fit and go onto the next stage of the build.
Saving money by doing it yourself is a great thing and I'll never take that from anyone. The line in the sand comes at some point though. McMillan stocks are expensive and they take a bit of time to get. Is a router at 20,000+ rpm controllable by a pair of human hands when eating fiberglass and epoxy? How well can you fixture your stock so that it doesn't move and still be able to adequately control the router as it runs along the stock?
If you have the means of accurately fixturing the piece and controlling your router then it should work. I just have a nightmarish vision of a stock between a pair of knees with a router blazing away. (-hopefully that's not your chosen path)
I wish you good luck and hope nothing gets ruined.
C
Re: How to Enlarge Barrel Channel
I would heed Mr. Dixon. Take the socket/dowel approach. A dremel will get away from you in a hurry(believe me on this).
I would heed Mr. Dixon. Take the socket/dowel approach. A dremel will get away from you in a hurry(believe me on this).
Re: How to Enlarge Barrel Channel
And...for coarse sandpaper, find some of the disks that are used for floors and such...about 40 grit and stiff as a wedding P....r Bend one of them over a dowel and have at it. a couple of minutes is all it takes. JMHO
And...for coarse sandpaper, find some of the disks that are used for floors and such...about 40 grit and stiff as a wedding P....r Bend one of them over a dowel and have at it. a couple of minutes is all it takes. JMHO
Re: How to Enlarge Barrel Channel
I use a deep socket with 60grit from my belt sander around it. As you sand, sand with a different section of the belt and you never have to change the paper. Hit it with 220 at the end and your done.
Disclaimer: I am a novice at best, but it has worked about 15 times now
I use a deep socket with 60grit from my belt sander around it. As you sand, sand with a different section of the belt and you never have to change the paper. Hit it with 220 at the end and your done.
Disclaimer: I am a novice at best, but it has worked about 15 times now
Re: How to Enlarge Barrel Channel
VTR has got it. Wooden dowel is the way to go. I have done several this way and never had a problem. Start with a smaller diameter and work up but take it slow.
VTR has got it. Wooden dowel is the way to go. I have done several this way and never had a problem. Start with a smaller diameter and work up but take it slow.
Barrel channel tool of correct size for your barrel makes it easy and much faster.
I have done some bell and carlsons with a dowel and sandpaper. It was super slow, I got pissed and broke out the dremel. Never was happy with my work. I decided long ago to buy a stock or chassis with a large factory inlet that will accommodate up to MTU contour so I don't have to dick with it and mess it up.
Other option.... for $50 or so, McMillian will re-inlet the barrel channel. I'd call them for a lead time and compare that to manually doing the job.
Andrew
Andrew
Dremel with a sanding wheel makes quick work on fiberglass fill, finish it up with sand paper on a dowel to knock down the high spots. Big grit sand paper goes faster. Get lower than 60 if you can find it. I have some 2 from my grandparents and it takes it off like a cheese scraper.
I have had the most success using a dowel wrapped with masking tape to mimic the contour of the barrel. Start with 60-ish grit paper around the dowel rod, and drop to 180 or so as you get close. Speaking of getting close, check the fit early and often.
One method I have developed is to drop the barreled action into the stock and use a squeeze clamp to make sure that the rear tang is seated against the stock, then using dental floss slid under the barrel (along the barrel channel) to determine where there's contact. I'll then mark those areas on a piece of masking tape that I have laid along side of the barrel channel, and will wrap sand paper around only those parts of the dowel for the next round of sanding/fitting.
Check, double check, and work slowly. Have a beer or two, put some classic rock on the radio, and make an afternoon/evening of it.
One method I have developed is to drop the barreled action into the stock and use a squeeze clamp to make sure that the rear tang is seated against the stock, then using dental floss slid under the barrel (along the barrel channel) to determine where there's contact. I'll then mark those areas on a piece of masking tape that I have laid along side of the barrel channel, and will wrap sand paper around only those parts of the dowel for the next round of sanding/fitting.
Check, double check, and work slowly. Have a beer or two, put some classic rock on the radio, and make an afternoon/evening of it.
Just a quick little addition/improvement on the wood dowel idea here. I wrapped tape around an appropriately sized dowel to match the barrel profile plus the appropriate free float gap. I attached a spindle and handle on one end. I then attached a 1/2” bolt to the other end. The 1/2” end goes in the chuck of a drill. The entire dowel is wrapped in emery cloth and the Rotation of the drill does all the work. I simply lower the dowel as material is removed. I’ll post some pics when I get a chance if anyone wants.
"straight cylinder" barrel channel inlet from the mfr and be done with it.
Barrel channel scraper is ideal, works fast on fiberglass or wood. Tape on stock were the new edge of channel will be, it's easy to follow that. I have a 1.125" channel scraper and a 7/8. I can use the 7/8" one to follow the tape edge and make contours like a rem varm with even gaps.
IIRC you can send the stock and barreled action to McMillan and they will inlet the barrel channel for less than $100.
Well shit, I finally have a good answer in gunsmithing section and it's a necro thread, lol. I never even looked at dates
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