- Thread starter rtr
- Start date
Yup, ring it with a sharpie...
Silver sharpie or a paint pen (available from an arts and craft store like Michael's or Hobby Lobby). Used to be able to get them where ever they sold scale model paints, but these days, I'm sure thye're either under lock and key, or just plain aren't sold at the wally worlds, etc..
What are you wanting to mark is for? Put your name on it so it doesn’t walk off? Or mark different “witness” marks for heights?
Sharpie or silver sharpie is easy on but also easy off with a bit of alcohol or hoppes solvent. That may be good or bad. Those are two things that are pretty prevalent at most matches and shooting events.
Oil based paint pen works well but can still be removed, just not as easily. Stencil with your name and paint works well, too, if you’re marking it as yours.
Sharpie or silver sharpie is easy on but also easy off with a bit of alcohol or hoppes solvent. That may be good or bad. Those are two things that are pretty prevalent at most matches and shooting events.
Oil based paint pen works well but can still be removed, just not as easily. Stencil with your name and paint works well, too, if you’re marking it as yours.
Height... too tall at full length
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Then I’d just use sharpie and touch it up as needed. That’s the cheapest, easiest option. Doesn’t require any time to dry, and is easily changed if needed.
Sharpie is ink, and inks (including non-Industrial Sharpie®)are generally alcohol based, non-curing materials. Especially on non-porous items, you can use denatured alcohol to remove the marks years, or decades, later.
Other solvents may incidentally remove them, or have alcohol, but denatured alcohol is the best.
Now... on smooth and non-porous surfaces, you won't have especially sturdy marks. They will wear, pretty shortly. Especially if the part marked goes inside another tube so they are worn with every use.
May be fine to just re-mark regularly, but keep it in mind.
For permanent marking of things like this, diamond scribe or finely file very smallow grooves.
Other solvents may incidentally remove them, or have alcohol, but denatured alcohol is the best.
Now... on smooth and non-porous surfaces, you won't have especially sturdy marks. They will wear, pretty shortly. Especially if the part marked goes inside another tube so they are worn with every use.
May be fine to just re-mark regularly, but keep it in mind.
For permanent marking of things like this, diamond scribe or finely file very smallow grooves.
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Yes, as I mentioned above...
If you are on the fence about marking, don't mark it. A method I have used for a long time and those I teach, we just use hand measurements to establish various positions.
Example: For sitting, last segment collapsed, middle segment collapsed to fist and a thumb on all three legs (if its flat).
Getting reps snapping in and remembering the hand measurements of your tripod legs are key. It's worth trying out if you haven't before. Plus, sharpie or paint may wear off over time, your hands (hopefully) will always be there.
Example: For sitting, last segment collapsed, middle segment collapsed to fist and a thumb on all three legs (if its flat).
Getting reps snapping in and remembering the hand measurements of your tripod legs are key. It's worth trying out if you haven't before. Plus, sharpie or paint may wear off over time, your hands (hopefully) will always be there.
