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How to Move a Safe (1000 lbs.)

MMH

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Minuteman
Mar 17, 2013
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I am getting a safe on Wednesday. It is 72.5" tall x 42" wide x 32" deep and weighs 1015 lbs. I was thinking about rolling in on some 2" black pipe (have three or four pieces of pipe underneath it and when the bottom of the safe rolls of the last roll move it back up to the front). It will be rolling over a hard floor. Including me there will be three guys.

Is there an easier way? Is there a dolly or something I can rent made specifically for moving things like a safe?
 
A heavy duty appliance dolly is all you really need.

Take the door off the safe and move it in two pieces. You might have to put the door back on before you put it in its desired location (depending on where it's going and the angle the door has to be put ba
 
You might want to put some masonite down before rolling it on the hardwood. That much weight might leave marks in your floor. I think I would try to put it on a couple movers dollies, they are only about $15 each at the hardware stores.
 
4 wheel dolly works well. Might lay down pieces of plywood to protect your floor or to roll over carpet. Once its close to being in place you can wiggle it into its final position
 

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Jut rent a heavy duty furniture dolly with a heavy strap. I've moved and delivered over 50 safes, with 3 guys its pretty easy.
Just make sure when they load it into your truck, have them tip it back onto the tailgate then slide it in on its back while still in the box. To get it out make sure you remove the attached pallet first, I use a hammer and prybar then smack them off. Then just push it off the tailgate and let it gently to the ground while balanced and strap the side of it to the dolly.
 
There are safe moving machines, they are pretty awesome, but I have never seen one for rent. They run $3k+ and the owners are usually getting $500 minimum to show up. I have had 3 moved, but I have a personal friend with one of these, so I am only in them for lunch money.

If you are moving it on the flat, the black pipe should work. It would be nice to make a wood platform so you don't mess up the bottom of the safe, and it will also keep it from slipping off. Just remember, if a 1000 pound safe starts to tip or fall, you can not stop it, don't try.

Most of those 4 wheel furniture dollies are rated for 300 pounds. There are a few out there that are higher rated, but you won't find them at HD or Lowes. Don't use equipment that is under rated.
 
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I moved one the same size from pallet at the curb to final resting place in the garage by rolling it on 1" sched 80 PVC irrigation pipe. Kept 4 pieces under it at all times, moving the fifth. No problem.
 
My safe was moved in. (Liberty Magnum 50) on a dolly and then when it got inside the house to make turns they just had a 6wheeled board they put it on to make turns real easy. Then used to boards to get it off by rocking. I saw that with just those few things they moved that bad boy around easy. 3 guys total. I had to take one door frame out due to how narrow it was and being in a turn too. I had them leave it on a piece of cardboard so I can wiggle it around if I need to
 
4 wheel dolly works well. Might lay down pieces of plywood to protect your floor or to roll over carpet. Once its close to being in place you can wiggle it into its final position

+1 to this.

I paid a moving company to pick up, deliver and set in place my new safe, this is what they used along with the plywood sheeting. From the driveway they had to come in from the walkout in back through the yard. This looked to be the most difficult part due to the uneven ground. We had to remove the glass from the sliding door to get it through. Best $65 I ever spent. I know right, a deal at twice the price.
 
I hired a rigging company. Best $350 I ever spent. Your friends will cost you more in beer and food.

The riggers came with aluminum protection plate, a special narrow pallet jack, special lifting bars. They unblocked the safe and moved it into position without me doing squat. They cleaned up and than they left in a total of about 45 minutes. Last time I was serviced like that I was in Olongapo PI.

If you do hire the help professionally just make sure you remove obstacles they have no control over. If your safe wont fit through a door frame they will not perform carpentry and having them wait while you tear out the frame will have you paying their down time.
 
+1 to this.

I paid a moving company to pick up, deliver and set in place my new safe, this is what they used along with the plywood sheeting. From the driveway they had to come in from the walkout in back through the yard. This looked to be the most difficult part due to the uneven ground. We had to remove the glass from the sliding door to get it through. Best $65 I ever spent. I know right, a deal at twice the price.

That is a screaming deal. I read your post after I hit send on mine. I d say I got screwed at $300 but you wont get a guy to turn the key on his truck in my market for $65. I salute your deal sir.
 
I rented a pallet jack for inside, and a bobcat with forks for out. Set the safe in the back of my truck, hooked the trailer up, loaded the bobcat, and drove home. Reverse order to get it out. I drove the safe I to the door with the bobcat and set it on the pallet jack. Took it all the way to its spot. My little brother tipped it over to me, I held it while the edge sat on the floor. He pulled out the pallet jack and boom. There it was. Then we set 4ea 3/8" red heads and she is done.

We did the same thing with my dad's safe.


ETA: if I had a moving company that would charge $65 that would have been my path. The one I talked to wanted to charge $400.
 
I called a moving company and wrote a check. They show up here, haul it out, follow me to the new place and put it where I want it. Protect the floors and door sills, cover the safe so it's not exposed or damaged...

Expensive, $550, yes. Cheaper than a broken leg or being dead, yes. My last broken leg was over $10k. If I didn't have two flights of stairs to navigate, I might have considered doing it myself. I have help buddies move safes where no stairs were involved and straight pieces of pipe and golf balls are immensely helpful.

At work I've used a tool called a roll a lift to move heavy things before. Basically you put a hydraulic jack with wheels on it on either side, strap them together and jack up whatever you're moving.

http://rolalift.com

Be careful.
 
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My friend and I just ordered 2 safes. He found a stair-climbing dolly to rent for $120 for a half day. Not sure where though. We are splitting it so I think we did alright.
 
The safe will be dragged over a plywood floor (I am in the process of refinishing my basement). Scratches/dents to the floor are not a concern. Would I be able to lay down a moving blanket & drag the safe over that? Seems like the smooth safe surface would easily drag on top of the blanket.
 
I had a forklift and operator show up when the safe arrived to unload it. I also rented a pallet jack and had 3/4" plywood to cover any areas that would be damaged by the pallet jack. It went smoothly.

Note: My safe was 1500lbs, I had a total of 3 persons for the install. The biggest issue I had was getting the safe off the pallet it was bolted to.
 
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^^^ that what I did me and my cousin mived my liberty safe, I have tile so I put plywood down and rolled it in on the pallet jack the hard part is getting it off of the pallet but just take your time. I only had to buy the beer so I got out pretty cheap.
 
I've moved my safe 7 times in the last 15 years. Each without too much overall cost using either a HD dolly w/ anti tip device, extra smaller wheels that pull out from the back to support the weight (make sure the tires are solid, not with air). If the dolly starts to go down on you the weight will easily over come you, have strong friends around. This last year I used (5) 4" PVC DWV sch. 40 or 2" underground extra heavy duty conduit works too. I did this with the help of only my girlfriend and her 15 YO son, no issues getting it there. **** Once the full weight is that low you will need to block up with 2x6 or 2x8 on the flat off the floor. Get on your knees to raise the safe off the floor enough to get it back up in an upright position using the 2x material as you keep stacking it up under the safe**** This method is very safe as you will not be carrying the weight on a dolly, unless you find the anti tip type.

Good luck w/ the move.
 
If the safe has external hinges, then you can open the door and put a floor jack under it to lift up and remove the door. This takes several hundred pounds off and makes it much easier to move if you dont have access to equipment.
 
Safety first, can you make through all your doors you need too. Electric safe dolly works the best, you can do it your self with 3-4 people. Take door off if possible, to make lighter. If nobody in your group has never moved a 1000 lbs safe before it can be tough.Try and find someone who has moved one for pointer, because this will not be like moving a refrigerator. You gave dimensions and that is a half ton. Safety is the key and i don't care how big the guys are moving it,if it slips you will do damage to something or some one.Use back braces and gloves to grip. Make sure the ground you are moving upon can handle 1000 lbs. The resting spot needs to be solid. I would not rest on concrete directly due to heat and cold going right into bottom of safe. It is your money and all i can say is choose wisely, you want the safe to look just like you got it and I with nobody hurt. Safe movers can do it for a fee and the take all the wear and tear on there body's along if any thing gets damage they cover it. Good luck.
 
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I've moved my safes around the house using golf balls, sounds silly but it works great. It's easy to turn corners or spin the safe.
 
Piano dolly and a couple of stout volunteers. Piano dollies are very low profile and relatively easy to move around. Rented one for about $50. Plus one to protecting your floors. Plan only to move once, if able. Biggest point of vulnerability was moving from trailer to dolly-1m# is heavy.
 
I've moved my safes around the house using golf balls, sounds silly but it works great. It's easy to turn corners or spin the safe.

I've heard that's how folks that "help themselves" to our stuff move them too (for those that don't bolt them down).
 
I had a safe company receive my safe and had them install it. It cost me around $1700. It took 4 guys 10 hours to get it installed plus a forklift rental for the day. The forklift was used to remove the safe from their truck and bring the safe as close to the back of the house as they could. From there the safe was hand winched down a very steep hill on special hydraulic safe moving dollies that only lift it an inch or so off the ground. 1" thick plywood was laid down for them to roll. I not only had to completely remove my slider, but reframe the entry to make it larger so the safe would fit through (I ended up installing standard size french doors, much nicer). After the safe was put into place they brought down the doors individually and re-installed them. Since the safe wouldn't have fit through the doorway of the room I installed it in I had to wait to frame in one of the walls. I also held off on putting in the floor in the room to avoid damaging it.

Was this expensive? You bet! But I wouldn't have wanted to attempt it myself to save a few dollars and risk damaging my safe, or my house. The weight of the safe and the forklift did break my driveway though. I'd feel comfortable installing a much lighter safe myself with a couple of friends. My safe weighs around 7000lbs...but yes, I bolted it down as soon as it was in place.
 
The safe will be dragged over a plywood floor (I am in the process of refinishing my basement). Scratches/dents to the floor are not a concern. Would I be able to lay down a moving blanket & drag the safe over that? Seems like the smooth safe surface would easily drag on top of the blanket.

You'd be surprised how difficult it is to slide one on a surface like that. They're just that heavy. My dad and I moved mine into my new house last summer and it was only 800 some-odd pounds. It came through the garage into the finished, carpeted downstairs den. We did well until it hit the carpet and completely bogged down. That's when it took us almost 45 minutes to move it 12-14 feet.

The pipes and golf ball ideas should do the trick.
 
Most moving companies rents a dolly called a rol-a-lift:

Rol-A-Lift - Home

They're the shit for moving safes. Other than that I'd suggest lifting the door offer and muscling it in two pieces. If you get the door off you can roll it on a regular furniture dolly without breaking it.
 
I used wood doll rods to roll mine around. I think mine were 3/4" or 1" rods cut to the width of the safe. Easy to tilt the safe one way and slip the rods under the opposite edge. Also no worries about hurting your floor with the wood rods.

Kind of shocking how easy the safe floats around on the rollers.
 
I moved the safe last night. Rolled it on golf balls. Was a little trickier than I thought that it was going to be. The hardest part was definitely getting the safe out of the truck, upright & thru the sliding door. It took me & my son 3 hours, but we went slow & were very careful.
 
When i bought my safe i had them deliver and install. Since theres no sales tax (in WA) on safes it was (in a way) like free delivery and setup. But they showed up with the dolly, used that to go it into my house (up porch steps) then they just used these slider things. Liked like a 2x2 piece of wood with some sort of plastic on top. put the safe on those and one guy would push while the other kept the "track" going in front of the safe. Honestly the longest part was setting it up (door protection and getting materials out) and take down (removing everything including trash). Safe weighed 1000 pounds and the one guy had no problems moving it by himself. Was pretty impressive to see.
 
Your exact layout will determine the best way to do it. I moved a 4500 lb. lathe into my shop, by myself, in a half day using a small come-along and 3-ton chain hoist with several pieces of 1" pipe to roll it on. I even picked it up a few weeks later to put a drip pan under the lathe without a hitch. Analyze your situation, get creative and take your time.
 
I've moved my safes around the house using golf balls, sounds silly but it works great. It's easy to turn corners or spin the safe.

Once my safe was in the house the Fort Knox dealer used golf balls. One guy easily positioned into place. They both tilted it and removed the balls.
 
1" wooded dowels work as rollers as well if you are on a hard surface. The more you have under it the easier it rolls. You have to have enough to keep moving them from rear to front of progession.
 
I also went through the wooden dowels , chopped broomsticks, and steel pipe phase. Eventually built a platform dolly with steel casters with polyurethane wheels. Then built a closet room around it to defer any easy removal.
 
You'd be surprised how difficult it is to slide one on a surface like that. They're just that heavy. My dad and I moved mine into my new house last summer and it was only 800 some-odd pounds. It came through the garage into the finished, carpeted downstairs den. We did well until it hit the carpet and completely bogged down. That's when it took us almost 45 minutes to move it 12-14 feet.

The pipes and golf ball ideas should do the trick.
I moved mine a few months ago using a similar method. On the hardwood we used carpet samples under the safe and when we hit the carpet we transferred it onto a cheap piece of vinyl flooring and drug/pushed it the rest of the way. Took 2 of us to do the move.
 
I moved the safe last night. Rolled it on golf balls. Was a little trickier than I thought that it was going to be. The hardest part was definitely getting the safe out of the truck, upright & thru the sliding door. It took me & my son 3 hours, but we went slow & were very careful.

Glad it worked out, it's not bad if you're careful. The unloading and navigating obstacles is tricky, otherwise its pretty easy. I was rolling my 14x40 lathe a couple weeks ago on pieces of bar about 1/2" thick. I laughed when my 4 year old started pushing trying to help- until it started moving. Couldn't believe he got that heavy thing moving by himself. It's amazing what a couple round bars or golf balls can do.
 
I was hoping shankster would reply here to this thread. I'm sure he has some great ideas for moving heavy loads.
 
I'm about to do the same with the one I just bought. I got an Amsec 7250. Sumbitch weighs 1800 pounds. I've got a tractor with forks and a pallet jack. I think getting it off of the pallet and into the final position is going to be the hardest part. Any suggestions on getting 1800 pounds off a pallet?
 
I'm about to do the same with the one I just bought. I got an Amsec 7250. Sumbitch weighs 1800 pounds. I've got a tractor with forks and a pallet jack. I think getting it off of the pallet and into the final position is going to be the hardest part. Any suggestions on getting 1800 pounds off a pallet?
I removed the pallet while the safe was still in my truck. I pulled back on the boards w/ a crowbar & cut off the lag screws w/ a Sawzall. To unbolt the screws would have required opening the safe door and the w/ the safe laying down, I would have been lifting the door up, so, I figured cutting off the bolts would was easier.

The next step was sliding the safe out of the truck. I put a strap behind the safe & carefully pulled it out w/ the tractor. My son was on the tractor & pulled it until it was almost half way out then went super slow. I was in the truck and pushed the safe over the edge of the truck and let it slide to the ground. The safe was at an angle (on the ground & leaning against the truck. BTW, be sure to remove the tailgate first if you are using a pickup, We pushed the safe upright and positioned some 2x4's underneath the safe so we could get forks under it. WE then placed some ratchet straps on top of the 2x4s'.

Carefully we line up the tractor & slightly lifted up on the forks (safe barely off of the ground), making sure we had contact over the full length. The forks were spread to the maximum width that kept them under the safe. We tightened up the straps to pull the safe down on the forks. We did this because the safe has a high CG and the fork spread was narrow.

Doing all of this means that you will not be able to use the pallet jack. We moved our safe on golf balls.
 
I just had to move mine out a few feet yesterday to paint and put trim down. Mine is well over 1k lbs. Myself and two others were very easily able to do it with 4 pieces of PVC. I was actually amazed how easily it rolled. Of course, you want to go very slow as if it were to tip, there would be serious risk of injury. The safest course would be to pay someone... but I didn't want to pay someone to move it 5 feet twice.