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Lathe? Shit, I was gonna use a harbor freight tap.
why though? what are you trying to accomplish
What I was checking on is a remage conversion on a howa. Maybe a Howage?
This is what you seek
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The Howage - McGowen Precision Barrels
Howa 1500/Weatherby Vanguard nut system barrels - like the Savage and our REMAGE barrels We are referring to them as the Howage. This barrel has no shoulder and is similar in design to the Savage Pre-Fit barrel. It requires a lock nut to lockmcgowenbarrel.com
Sweet! Thank you!
Lathe? Shit, I was gonna use a harbor freight tap.
Do you want to test fire it next to YOUR face?So, just to clarify, your not going to use the tap?![]()
Yes.Are McGowan barrels any good?
The 16tpi tap thread pitch is close enough to 1.5 mm receiver thread that in 16 turns, the first tooth of the tap will have entered the metric thread, completely removed it, and come out the other side
To make this actually work, your going to need a good Tig welder to completely weld up the existing thread, building up enough steel that the ID of the receiver can be re-bored to the correct diameter for the Remington thread.
Then, it'll need re-threaded, re-heat treated, and trued due to all the shit that warped during welding. Just a guess, but assuming you'll need local machine shops to do the work, the total cost if this project should be at least 2k$, probably more.
OK, not only NO, but FUCK NO. Sorry to be rude, but this idea is that fucking bad.
A gun at its most academic level is a pressure vessel. One that sees 10's of thousands of pounds of force and pressure exerted against it. The steels used to make these things are not trivial. They must be heat treated and tempered to deliver the hardness, tensile strength, and toughness required to manage this kind of load for tens of thousands of cycles.
A tig torch, no matter how well used, is not going to preserve this. Not even close. What your describing will completely alter the chemistry of the steel and that chemistry is very important.
It's a great way to put you and anyone in close proximity into the hospital once you go pulling the trigger.
I offer an alternative. One that I have done more than once to restore an action ruined by the BP process.
1. ID bore the receiver ring and thread mill it to 1-3/16-28 threads.
2. Turn a piece of pre hard, 36 Rockwell Chromoly and thread it to the same diameter and pitch.
3. Assemble the two. Screw the plug into the action. Use a high quality lock tite.
4. Bisect the seam, drill a hole axially, and install a single .0625" pin made of brass. Turn the pin a couple .001's larger than the hole so that its a press fit. Peen the top to cold forge it into the hole and exert pressure.
5. Now, machine the face. It blends the receiver, plug, and pin to a clean finish.
6. ID bore a hole to the internal diameter needed for whatever thread you are restoring the action to.
7. Threadmill the receiver and qualify it with a plug gauge of appropriate size, pitch, and thread class.
8. Add edge breaks, chamfers and a truncated thread lead as desired.
You're done. Action is restored, you didn't kill the heat treat, and it will work to the same standard as an unmolested one. I've done it more than once for people who had a bad experience with other shops. I've also used it to fix mistakes of my own.
The point to take from this is never, never, never go blazing away inside a receiver with TIG torch anywhere close to the lugs with the kind of heat that it would take to weld up the entire thread ring. That is how you make a bomb, hurt people, and ruin equipment.
Hope this helps.
C.
Chad, isnt that exactly what they did on the show based in Louisiana I think??? The ones who kept building retarded machine guns with welds that looked like 50 yr old caulk dried out??OK, not only NO, but FUCK NO. Sorry to be rude, but this idea is that fucking bad.
A gun at its most academic level is a pressure vessel. One that sees 10's of thousands of pounds of force and pressure exerted against it. The steels used to make these things are not trivial. They must be heat treated and tempered to deliver the hardness, tensile strength, and toughness required to manage this kind of load for tens of thousands of cycles.
A tig torch, no matter how well used, is not going to preserve this. Not even close. What your describing will completely alter the chemistry of the steel and that chemistry is very important.
It's a great way to put you and anyone in close proximity into the hospital once you go pulling the trigger.
I offer an alternative. One that I have done more than once to restore an action ruined by the BP process.
1. ID bore the receiver ring and thread mill it to 1-3/16-28 threads.
2. Turn a piece of pre hard, 36 Rockwell Chromoly and thread it to the same diameter and pitch.
3. Assemble the two. Screw the plug into the action. Use a high quality lock tite.
4. Bisect the seam, drill a hole axially, and install a single .0625" pin made of brass. Turn the pin a couple .001's larger than the hole so that its a press fit. Peen the top to cold forge it into the hole and exert pressure.
5. Now, machine the face. It blends the receiver, plug, and pin to a clean finish.
6. ID bore a hole to the internal diameter needed for whatever thread you are restoring the action to.
7. Threadmill the receiver and qualify it with a plug gauge of appropriate size, pitch, and thread class.
8. Add edge breaks, chamfers and a truncated thread lead as desired.
You're done. Action is restored, you didn't kill the heat treat, and it will work to the same standard as an unmolested one. I've done it more than once for people who had a bad experience with other shops. I've also used it to fix mistakes of my own.
The point to take from this is never, never, never go blazing away inside a receiver with TIG torch anywhere close to the lugs with the kind of heat that it would take to weld up the entire thread ring. That is how you make a bomb, hurt people, and ruin equipment.
Hope this helps.
C.
Chad, isnt that exactly what they did on the show based in Louisiana I think??? The ones who kept building retarded machine guns with welds that looked like 50 yr old caulk dried out??
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