I have zero clue about pistol reloading

TheGerman

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  • Jan 25, 2010
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    Wanted to load for 45ACP on the Dillon 650 to save some cash on ammo and anywhere I looked for pistol 'how to's' the process seems to be WAY lax compared to rifle.

    Basically, set up your dies, throw brass in it and load. Done. No brass prep, no crazy amount of measuring everything, hell, even the same headstamps don't matter as long as they are the right caliber. No prep, no trimming, some don't even bother cleaning brass.

    The only warning was to make sure your process ensures you don't double charge a case as its entirely possible.

    Is it really that simple?

     
    I like to tumble clean my pistol cases but yeah, compared to rifle, it's a walk in the park, 10 times easier than bottleneck cases! Makes you feel like youre cheating. Load 'em & shoot 'em 'till they crack lol....and yes, Bullseye is the go-to powder.
     
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    I like to tumble clean my pistol cases but yeah, compared to rifle, it's a walk in the park, 10 times easier than bottleneck cases! Makes you feel like youre cheating. Load 'em & shoot 'em 'till they crack lol....and yes, Bullseye is the go-to powder.

    Yeah thats what it felt like. I was reading what people do and was like, there's no way thats it. Felt like I was reading the cheaters method, or how to make shitty ammo that was going to explode in my gun or something.
     
    I do tumble my pistol brass then run them through my 650. I use Titegroup for 9mm supers and N340 for 9mm subs.

    So there's no trimming, measuring everything, sorting by head-stamp, trying to get every case to be exactly the same, etc. None of that shit?

    I keep feeling like I'm going to miss something big because of how conditioned I am with rifle loading.
     
    I personally do sort my pistol brass by headstamp but you don't have to. I just tumble them then dump them in the case feeder, they are sized and deprimed in station 1, primed, flared and charged in station 2, bullet seated in station 4 and crimped in 5. That simple

    I didn't get the best concentricity with my Dillon seating die so I use a Redding Micrometer seating die for 9mm which made a huge difference. Practically no run out. I load Xtreme 124g HP with Titegrouo as my practice load and 165g Xtreme with N340 for suppressed 9mm.
     
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    Just clean them (optional but most do it) resize & load. The 650 takes care of all the steps really. Not a bad idea to have the powder alarm installed, but no, really, "none of that shit"! When my wife & I were heavily into USPSA competition, between practice sessions & 2 matches a week, (more with 3-gun) I was loading 40,000 rounds of pistol per year for 10 years. They shot great and never had a problem with the loads. Then we got into precision rifle.....beat me, whip me, I thought I had fallen into "reloading hell", lol!
     
    Yes.

    Just load something like bullseye. Cant double charge 45 ACP with that stuff.

    I don't know if he's being sarcastic or what-hard to tell in print. BUT, Bullseye is probably one of the easiest powders to overcharge with. It's excellent powder but you could probably squeeze six max loads of it in a 45 case and still not have a compressed load.

    Use carbide dies with taper crimp.
     
    I don't know if he's being sarcastic or what-hard to tell in print. BUT, Bullseye is probably one of the easiest powders to overcharge with. It's excellent powder but you could probably squeeze six max loads of it in a 45 case and still not have a compressed load.

    Use carbide dies with taper crimp.

    I think I was meaning to say long shot. That stuff is like a 60% case fill on a min charge.
     
    Titegroup works great for me in 9mm.

    You will cuss the occasional 380 case or Berdan primed case that slips through, but you will be able to feel this when it occurs. If it doesn't go easy, don't force it!
     
    Pretty much. I have the luxury of getting lots of the same case. For example WCC military and Speer Lawman, one was issue one was the inexpensive range option. Military is a pain because of the crimp btw. I used to load cases then sort head stamps. Near max loads will cause problems but a 230 grain at 850 will be close enough in most cases.

    I started with .45 ACP on a Rockchucker, that sucked, four pulls on a handle for one trigger pull.
     
    I think I was meaning to say long shot. That stuff is like a 60% case fill on a min charge.

    Thank you for the correction. I'm sorry but i couldn't let that go in a thread started by a guy admitting he doesn't have a clue. I've never used longshot so that's something I don't have a clue about.
     
    Someone mentioned small and large primers. This is a major pain in the ass reloading mixed brass in .45ACP on a progressive press like a Dillon. When I reloaded thousands for USPSA practice, I found this out quickly.
     
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    Saw a post on Facebook ( I think it was the Sierra bullet site) where a guy tried to figure out how many times you could reload a 45acp case. They gave up at over 40. Basically you can reload them till you lose them was their conclusion. YMMV
     
    Everyone says pistol is easy but if you get a finicky gun then it can be significantly more frustrating than rifle reloading.

    With semi autos you have to pay close attention to crimp depth and oal for reliable feeding. Also, some bullet designs can be picky with regards to feed ramp angles and mag to feed ramp entry and all desgins may not work in your pistol.

    Seating depth changes can really spike pressure in pistol so be careful.

    czs have short leads so don't just look at a manual and load to the recommended OAL.

    plunk test frequently

    Read about bullet jumping to lands with pistol reloading, it's different than what is recommended for rifle.

    To save money, lead/coated bullets are great especially in a cartridge like 45acp to save money but yet shoot very accurately.

    I love wst for soft to medium 45acp loads. Meters like water on the 650 but then again most of the recommend powders do. 200gr SWC is what I primarily use but there's absolutely nothing from with the 230gr round ball.

    unique is a great powder to learn on.

    Unless you desire to load all small pistol primer 45 brass you will be pissed when you are chugging along on your 650 and one slips in and puts a halt to your rhythm.

    I hate small primer 45 pistol brass only bc the norm is large. I would like it if all semi auto pistol brass from this point forward used small pistol primers so I wouldn't have to change out the primer system on the dillons.

     
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    ^ Agreed. Also when finding your seating depth, it's possible in some pistols to seat the bullet where it passes a plunk test, but will reduce mag capacity by one.

    I mostly load jacketed bullets. When setting my expander for jacketed bullets, I want it to bell just enough to allow bullet seating without shaving jacket. My crimp is set to just remove the bell, not to crimp (for autoloader like 45acp that spaces off the mouth, not suitable for revolver cartridges). Ramshot Silouette is my favorite full power powder for 45, HS6 would probably be second. Pair either with a mag or Win LP primer. If you want a plinker that matches defensive ammo, take a look at hornady HAP bullets. Shoots like a XTP for much less cost. Also, read the instructions for setting up your dillon measure for pistol; it's different that rifle.
     
    I can geek out on handgun reloading all day long... LOL. RampedRaptor has some good stuff above.

    Relative to rifle, handgun runs much faster powders obviously. And, with some cartridges like .45 ACP and .38 Special, the classic "preferred" loads for accuracy involve a small charge of a very fast burn rate powder. This can be tricky (read: potentially dangerous) for a couple of reasons - first, you can frequently charge a case 2-3 times (or more in .38 Special w/ Bullseye) before you notice it visibly. Second, because the pressure curve rises so quickly with powder that fast, the load isn't going to be very tolerant of things like setback - that can be an issue in a pistol, if you don't have adequate bullet tension. A progressive press tends to fix the first problem - especially one that has auto-indexing like the 650. You basically have to purposefully try to double charge a case.

    Sorting cases... for a revolver, not super critical, but for a pistol might be important depending on the cartridge and the cases you have. For .45, it's not as much of an issue, but there's enough difference in the various brands of 9x19 brass that you could potentially have extraction issues with one brand, and zero issues with another (depending on your pistol). As RR alludes to above, be aware that there are .45 cases running around out there that use small pistol primers. The brass is mostly originally loaded as lead-free, if I recall correctly.

    Most popular .45 loads run a faster powder... Bullseye, Titegroup, VV N310 or N320 (I love N320, personally), Win 231, etc. 231 and Bullseye were the classic .45 powders for a long time. WST... is popular with some folks including on this thread. For .45, it seems to be pretty ok. It's not super tolerant of setback, though - the only case head separations I've seen in handgun involve WST, but that was in .40. If you're looking for max velocity or +P range, you need to go to a slower powder, obviously. N340, Unique, and others. I haven't tried Longshot in

    Other than the risk of a double charge, loading for .45 is about as easy as it gets - it's generally super tolerant of user error, and will generally shoot ok even with sub-optimal loads. Heck, as long as you're talking normal pressure loads, you can literally load up cracked cases and shoot them, as long as they'll hold a bullet - not that I would recommend that at all, but... point is, it's a super low pressure cartridge, and is very forgiving.

    Even though you are using carbide dies (you should be, if you're not), you want to lube your cases with something like Hornady One Shot, or Dillon Case Lube (it's a lanolin based lube) - neither will affect your primers. Contrary to fairly popular belief, it is safe to tumble your loaded ammo for a short period of time to remove the lube after you've loaded them (but be careful if you are loading hollow points - the media can stick in there and cause jams in your pistol later).

    Final thought - the powder charge actually makes up a reasonable amount of the recoil energy. Enough that you can feel a significant difference between powders (heavier charge weight = higher energy, and hence heavier recoil). It doesn't seem like a couple grains should make that much difference, but when you calculate the energy difference between them, doubling the charge weight becomes noticeable. So, for lower recoil, you also want to trend toward faster powders. The trade off being that faster powders don't fill the case as much, and are easier to double/triple charge (which you mitigate with your press).

     
    Wanted to load for 45ACP on the Dillon 650 to save some cash on ammo and anywhere I looked for pistol 'how to's' the process seems to be WAY lax compared to rifle.

    Basically, set up your dies, throw brass in it and load. Done. No brass prep, no crazy amount of measuring everything, hell, even the same headstamps don't matter as long as they are the right caliber. No prep, no trimming, some don't even bother cleaning brass.

    The only warning was to make sure your process ensures you don't double charge a case as its entirely possible.

    Is it really that simple?

    With the .45 acp, basically.
    Such a low pressure round, you don't have to worry about cases stretching. You will eventually have to trim, but you'll probably lose the brass before you really need to.
    Only two things you really have to worry about, double charges and a good crimp. The ACP is a taper crimp, things like the .357, .41, .44 and other hard recoiling rimmed magnum cartridges need a good roll crimp.
     
    http://forums.brianenos.com/

    Spend some time on there reading. Those guys are much more pistol oriented than this site but this thread has giving you a fantastic head start into pistol reloading.

    45 acp and either bullseye or unique is pretty close to dummy proof.

    Just stick to the general popular load data at first and don't start going against the grain until you get a solid base if you are that type of person.

    There's many picture on line of pistols that look like a used pipe bomb. I've heard the resale value is poor on used pipe bombs lol
     
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    I did a lot of 9mm, .40S&W .38 and .357. Some for me and some to sell at the range my dad and I were running for our club.

    I have a piggy back II for the rockchucker II.

    A couple pointers-

    Csbelas sells a book for each caliber. One book; one caliber. I have one for .308. If you are doing one round, these are great. It covers a lot of billets and powders.

    Go to powder manufacturer web sites. They always have load data.

    KEEP METICULOUS NOTES of everything you do.

    I used an rcbs powder meter on the piggyback. I ALWAYS dump several loads and then dump one for checking. Check it again every so often.

    Make a dummy round for each bullet you intend to use. These rounds will allow you to quickly reset your seater die without having to pull your weapon and recheck it... no powder and no primer. I kept them in the box with the dies.

    A progressive (multistation) press is really a must.

    Pistols do benefit from load work up but not to the degree a rifle does at long range.