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I know, I Know.. barrel break in question... Please just read

LL,

You are so misinterpretting what I'm saying. I'm not advocating this, only that it exists and you don't have any evidence, other than anecdotal to support your claim that it doesn't work. Think about that for a second. I'm not saying that it does work because I don't have enough data to make such a conclusion. But, without the same data, you are saying it does nothing. Do you not see the error in that thinking?

Do you not? The burden of proof is on you show that it works, not for us to prove it doesn’t. By your same logic it would be on you to prove that me taking a shit in the chamber first doesn’t work just because I said I do it. Are you going to go out of your way to prove my dumb claim is wrong?
 
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Barrel Break In: The 15 minute period of time between finally getting to shoot your new gun and when you start to think about what you're going to order for the next barrel.
 
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If he is using a Bartlein barrel he is already starting with the very best, by shooting 2 shots with his secret motor oil sauce, he inserts himself back into the equation.
Lowlight where would Brux and Rock Creek fall into for barrel quality in your opinion. I am new here and just curious.
 
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A0EF7E1B-5148-437B-8081-E89F4701F560.gif
 
Lowlight where would Brux and Rock Creek fall into for barrel quality in your opinion. I am new here and just curious.

Pick one. Most all name brand aftermarket barrels shoot. Hell, some factory barrels shoot. You saw my factory virgin action and barrel results a few posts up. I did NOTHING other than shoot a factory ammo it liked. Hell, I can’t get my handloads that tight in it, but I don’t shoot for groups. I blast prarrie dogs and steel with it. It shoots good enough for my interests, and I have zero interest in secret sauce oils for a motor or cooking oil in a wok...... some people believe that just because it has a history, that it has relevance. I beg to differ, when Chad at LRI who makes arguably the best damn rifles in the world, not just Tactical, he makes Palma class, hunting, and even has huge history with .22LR rifles, so when LRI says don’t bother...... I am not wasting my time or barrel life because some “benchrest chooter” says that “someone” told him that magic oil will make it shoot better......

Bull.

Shit.

If you like old wives tales and don’t want to offend/be offended, then yes. The guys at Accurate Shooter are quite nice and shoot well. Me? I don’t have time nor interest in 60yr old stories with zero evidence other than it made someone “feel good”

Frankly (no pun intended) I’m glad we have people in the industry like Frank and Chad who don’t really care about your feelings and will just tell you how it is.

Sorry, Rant over.

(Username LRI is not Chad from Longrifles inc. but I have heard his break in process.....shoot it lol)
 
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Unfortunately, a lot of people continue to promote the Voodoo of the previous decades.

It was how they made a name, or it helps them maintain market share or status by pretending they hit onto something nobody else has. Most of it will not harm, but there is a lot more data that says it doesn't help either.

You see it a lot with older people in the industry as times start to pass them. I talk about this a lot, from 1900 to 2000 precision rifle changed very little, it was incestuous at best, with guys just repeating what they heard the time before. But after 2001, everything changed a lot more money was invested in technology and education. Look at how many schools and instructors there are vs 2000 and prior. You could have counted the facilities in business on 1 hand, now you have to take your shoes off and still, you can't count them all.

Technology is better, no longer are guys building barrel like they did 75 years, instead, they invested in new machines. We have better bullets, better powders, more consistent means of reloading. All this has a net positive effect on the results. Going back and saying, if you shoot two shots through the barrel with motor oil in it gives X Builder the Edge over the competition makes very little sense.

In Classes, I challenge everyone to ask, "Why" and not just from me. If I cannot answer the "why", does it really add up to success. Shooting is an, "IF THAN" proposition if you do this than that will happen. Why you do something is just as important as how you do it.
 
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I always wondered how a bronze brush was going to take the imperfections out of steel. I bought a Tikka last year and went right to load development and my buddy looked at me like I was crazy. Of course, his dad was the one who taught me you need to completely clean a barrel after each range trip, which lead to my old M700 going from shooting 1/2" groups to 2" groups IMO. I'd honestly like to see some objective scientific studies on a lot of this stuff that we have went by voodoo to address for decades.
 
Some of us have been through a barrel or two in our shooting experience and have done both the barrel break-in voodoo and just plain shooting it. If the break-in gives better accuracy and easier cleaning, I certainly didn't see it in the barrels in which I did the break-in routine.
 
Guys guys Guys, it's not regular motor oil, it's pre-mix 2 stroke oil. If you want powerband gas expansion for ultimate projectile acceleration there's no better way to go. I think there are some barrels being designed with expansion chambers now to fully utilize the use of 2 stroke oil break in methods. I prefer Klotz because it smells like bubblegum.....brap brap. And don't forget, you better hold on because when your bullet hits the powerband the recoil is pretty harsh.
 
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Guys guys Guys, it's not regular motor oil, it's pre-mix 2 stroke oil. If you want powerband gas expansion for ultimate projectile acceleration there's no better way to go. I think there are some barrels being designed with expansion chambers now to fully utilize the use of 2 stroke oil break in methods. I prefer Klotz because it smells like bubblegum.....brap brap. And don't forget, you better hold on because when your bullet hits the powerband the recoil is pretty harsh.

I prefer the yellow power band as opposed to the red ones.... they don’t stretch out as fast.....
 
Not that I can claim to know, but shooting a barrel with any liquid remaining in the bore sounds an awful lot like the intentional process of fracking (hydraulic fracturing). I never shoot a wet bore. When cleaning becomes necessary, I will clean with solvent, then I will run a mop with oil on it through the bore before putting it away (to prevent rust), but I will dry it out with dry patches at the beginning of the next range session before shooting it.
 
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Well, I guess that is why all the knowelgable shooters hang out at accurateshooter.com...and don't worry Lil' Frankie I won't let the door hit me in the ass on the way out, I'm leaving voluntarily

I like that self eject before some asshole like me says “prove it with quantifiable evidence or beat Frank at the range.” By doing so, you avoided supplying evidence of anything and avoided actually shooting. Well done. Furthermore, you endeavored mightily to show us all a practical example of an appeal to authority logical fallacy. Anyway, as Colonel Cooper said, most gun owners know more about cleaning and assembly/disassembly than actually shooting.

https://en.m.wikiquote.org/wiki/Argument_from_authority
 
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Not that I can claim to know, but shooting a barrel with any liquid remaining in the bore sounds an awful lot like the intentional process of fracking (hydraulic fracturing). I never shoot a wet bore. When cleaning becomes necessary, I will clean with solvent, then I will run a mop with oil on it through the bore before putting it away (to prevent rust), but I will dry it out with dry patches at the beginning of the next range session before shooting it.

Kroil is safe for leaving in the barrel, but I would not use motor oil for the same.
 
My wife thought I was using the extra vergin olive oil to cook with.
 
To be fair, we’ve never discussed this before.
Well, we have extensively, just not since the last batch of changes. Lost a bunch of excellent content. But it is fun to talk about it again for the newer among us.
 
Hawk Hill custom barrels have a super short little break in procedure on their site. Takes just 14 rounds, takes care of that first use cleaning which everyone has recomended anyways. I use it because i figure... Why not. Lets me get a rough zero started. And it cant hurt.
 
Well,,,I'm glad we cleared that up. I feel better now. I have a GA Precision Hospitaller on order and now I know about barrel break in. Or not.
 
BREAK-IN & CLEANING:
With any premium barrel that has been finish lapped -- such as your Krieger Barrel --, the lay or direction of the finish is in the direction of the bullet travel, so fouling is minimal compared to a barrel with internal tooling marks. This is true of any properly finish-lapped barrel regardless of how it is rifled. If it is not finish-lapped, there will be reamer marks left in the bore that are directly across the direction of the bullet travel. This occurs even in a button-rifled barrel as the button cannot completely iron out these reamer marks.

Because the lay of the finish is in the direction of the bullet travel, very little is done to the bore during break-in, but the throat is another story. When your barrel is chambered, by necessity there are reamer marks left in the throat that are across the lands, i.e. across the direction of the bullet travel. In a new barrel they are very distinct; much like the teeth on a very fine file.

When the bullet is forced into the throat, copper dust is removed from the jacket material and released into the gas which at this temperature and pressure is actually a plasma. The copper dust is vaporized in this plasma and is carried down the barrel. As the gas expands and cools, the copper comes out of suspension and is deposited in the bore. This makes it appear as if the source of the fouling is the bore when it is actually for the most part the new throat.

If this copper is allowed to stay in the bore, and subsequent bullets and deposits are fired over it, copper which adheres well to itself, will build up quickly and may be difficult to remove later. So when we break in a barrel, our goal is to get the throat “polished without allowing copper to build up in the bore. This is the reasoning for the fire-one-shot-and-clean procedure.

Every barrel will vary slightly in how many rounds they take to break in For example a chrome moly barrel may take longer to break in than stainless steel because it is more abrasion resistant even though it is a similar hardness. Also chrome moly has a little more of an affinity for copper than stainless steel so it will usually show a little more color if you are using a chemical cleaner. Rim Fire barrels can take an extremely long time to break in, sometimes requiring several hundred rounds or more. But cleaning can be lengthened to every 25-50 rounds. The break-in procedure and the cleaning procedure are really the same except for the frequency. Remember the goal is to get or keep the barrel clean while breaking in the throat with bullets being fired over it.

Finally, the best way to tell if the barrel is broken in is to observe the patches; i.e. when the fouling is reduced. This is better than some set number of cycles of shoot and clean as many owners report practically no fouling after the first few shots, and more break-in would be pointless. Conversely, if more is required, a set number would not address that either. Besides, cleaning is not a completely benign procedure so it should be done carefully and no more than necessary.
 
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If it’s a new rifle then run a couple patches down it before you shoot for the first time then just enjoy it.

I used to go through that whole process and it was a huge waste of time. I never saw a difference in rifles where I did or didn’t do the procedure so I just stopped. Have yet to see any negative affect of not doing it.

This.
 
BREAK-IN & CLEANING:
With any premium barrel that has been finish lapped -- such as your Krieger Barrel --, the lay or direction of the finish is in the direction of the bullet travel, so fouling is minimal compared to a barrel with internal tooling marks. This is true of any properly finish-lapped barrel regardless of how it is rifled. If it is not finish-lapped, there will be reamer marks left in the bore that are directly across the direction of the bullet travel. This occurs even in a button-rifled barrel as the button cannot completely iron out these reamer marks.

Because the lay of the finish is in the direction of the bullet travel, very little is done to the bore during break-in, but the throat is another story. When your barrel is chambered, by necessity there are reamer marks left in the throat that are across the lands, i.e. across the direction of the bullet travel. In a new barrel they are very distinct; much like the teeth on a very fine file.

When the bullet is forced into the throat, copper dust is removed from the jacket material and released into the gas which at this temperature and pressure is actually a plasma. The copper dust is vaporized in this plasma and is carried down the barrel. As the gas expands and cools, the copper comes out of suspension and is deposited in the bore. This makes it appear as if the source of the fouling is the bore when it is actually for the most part the new throat.

If this copper is allowed to stay in the bore, and subsequent bullets and deposits are fired over it, copper which adheres well to itself, will build up quickly and may be difficult to remove later. So when we break in a barrel, our goal is to get the throat “polished without allowing copper to build up in the bore. This is the reasoning for the fire-one-shot-and-clean procedure.

Every barrel will vary slightly in how many rounds they take to break in For example a chrome moly barrel may take longer to break in than stainless steel because it is more abrasion resistant even though it is a similar hardness. Also chrome moly has a little more of an affinity for copper than stainless steel so it will usually show a little more color if you are using a chemical cleaner. Rim Fire barrels can take an extremely long time to break in, sometimes requiring several hundred rounds or more. But cleaning can be lengthened to every 25-50 rounds. The break-in procedure and the cleaning procedure are really the same except for the frequency. Remember the goal is to get or keep the barrel clean while breaking in the throat with bullets being fired over it.

Finally, the best way to tell if the barrel is broken in is to observe the patches; i.e. when the fouling is reduced. This is better than some set number of cycles of shoot and clean as many owners report practically no fouling after the first few shots, and more break-in would be pointless. Conversely, if more is required, a set number would not address that either. Besides, cleaning is not a completely benign procedure so it should be done carefully and no more than necessary.

Read this: https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/threads/objective-research-on-barrel-break-in-procedures.27321/
 
My break in procedure for the last 15 years or so:

1: Clean the barrel with a wet patch, followed by a few strokes with a brass brush, then a few dry patches.
2: Fire one round.
3: Repeat step 1.
4: Fire 5 rounds.
5: Repeat step 1.
6: ???
7: Profit.
8: Crack open a cold one with the boys.