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I need a in/lb torque wrench

yocan

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Minuteman
Aug 13, 2011
130
25
Detroit
Not sure where to put it but mounting scopes I finally got a decent piece of glass so figure to install I should do it right and use a torque wrench.
Wiha
Vortex
Wheeler fat wrench.

I have trouble seeing fix it sticks being the right answer but maybe you can sell me on it.

Side note for I'm putting .88 US optic rings with a leupold 30mm vx5hd 3-15x56 onto a 20moa rail if it matters. If this was answered elsewhere please tag me. The clearance is about 1/8 of an inch so I'll be cutting a small chunk off the bottom of my bikini.
 
I have had 3 of the 4 you listed. Hands down Fix It Sticks!!!!!

Best investment I have ever made! I use their torque wrench that goes from 5 to 65in lbs the most. I have all the other torque converters they sell. Compact and super easy to use!

They get my vote 100%!
 
I've had all that you listed, as well.

But Fix It Sticks are by far the best tools I have invested in for shooting. I wouldn't use anything else (until something better comes along).
 
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are yall using fix it torque wrenches or limiters? Because a spread of limiters is crazy expensive
 
Look at the all in one torque driver $50 and then look at any specific ones you need, for example I needed an 80lbs for my DT and just ordered that. PM me my buddy reps them 😉
 
I've run Seekonk T-handle wrenches, Wheeler FAT wrenches, FixIt Sticks All-In-One, and a Borka kit, they've all done the job to satisfaction and nothing has ever fallen off the gun. The FixIt Sticks rides in the maintenance kit in my pack for range use, the Wheeler and Borka get used interchangeably at the bench. Combine that with some blue thread locker used properly and it's unlikely you're going to run into any issues.
 
are yall using fix it torque wrenches or limiters? Because a spread of limiters is crazy expensive
I purchased the precision rifle complete kit. Then added an all in one big and small to cover the entire range I would need. Expensive, yes... Lots of dealers on SH that you can inquire with.
 
Fclassjohn has a couple of interesting youtube videos comparing a number of torque tools
 
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Fclassjohn has a couple of interesting youtube videos comparing a number of torque tools
I know they vary and none were talking about are gonna be within 10% but they are generally consistent to themselves which is what i Need at this point
 
I picked up a Borka kit on a SH group buy.
Solid kit & ive been very happy with it.
Then I was gifted the Fix it sticks ultimate kit.

I use a lil from each kit but Honestly if I had to only have one I’d run the Fix It Sticks. The T handle is fast & handy. The limiters are good enough for my weekender needs.
 
Not sure where to put it but mounting scopes I finally got a decent piece of glass so figure to install I should do it right and use a torque wrench.
Wiha
Vortex
Wheeler fat wrench.

I have trouble seeing fix it sticks being the right answer but maybe you can sell me on it.

Side note for I'm putting .88 US optic rings with a leupold 30mm vx5hd 3-15x56 onto a 20moa rail if it matters. If this was answered elsewhere please tag me. The clearance is about 1/8 of an inch so I'll be cutting a small chunk off the bottom of my bikini.
Fix it sticks for sure.

Why are you mounting so low you have to cut things up. Go the next level up and you might even be more comfortable when you shoot
 
Do a Google search fix it sticks versus Borka. You will find the snipers hide thread. I went with borka. I love mine they have a nice little pouch that everything fits in folds up ties away and fits in My range bag they’re great tools.
 
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Not sure where to put it but mounting scopes I finally got a decent piece of glass so figure to install I should do it right and use a torque wrench.
Wiha
Vortex
Wheeler fat wrench.

I have trouble seeing fix it sticks being the right answer but maybe you can sell me on it.

Side note for I'm putting .88 US optic rings with a leupold 30mm vx5hd 3-15x56 onto a 20moa rail if it matters. If this was answered elsewhere please tag me. The clearance is about 1/8 of an inch so I'll be cutting a small chunk off the bottom of my bikini.
Fix it stick torque limiters. Buy a set, add any additional limiters you might need, and they will not only last a lifetime (well, my lifetime but I’m old! Haha) AND they will actually be accurate.
 
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Started with a fat wrench. Then I got the fix it sticks.

My fat wrench vary rarely ever gets used now days. Fix it sticks are awesome.
 
Like many above, I have run them all but use the Fix-It limiters the most. Any of the ones you list will do the job so it really depends on your budget. The reason I use the limiters is they are small and fit in my pack for use in the field if necessary. Some of the other types, like the Wheeler and Vortex, are a little bulky to haul around but they do work well at the bench.
 
I'll go a different direction and tell you to buy a real torque wrench that you can use for other purposes. I highly suggest a Precision Instruments M1R200HX, with a 30-200 in/lb range:


Fix it sticks are fine for a range bag, but the above is a great torque wrench that will outlast you, and can be calibrated/certified as needed. Fix it sticks torque limiters are +- 6% last I checked, which isn't terribly great. It's a non-issue for most tasks, but it bugs me for the price being paid. I'm not a fan of the dial-style variable torque indicator for things like this, it's easy to mess that up. I typically stick to split beam torque wrenches, but for this task, I like the click micrometer type best.

It all depends on what you're looking for, I would tell you a torque limiter fix it stick for your mount and scope would be more appropriate for a go/range bag, but for a torque wrench you can use for anything in the mentioned torque range, the above would be my suggestion.
 
BORKA works best for me...tried them all.
Hi Nik - I looked at Borka and I'm sure that they are great tools.....but man, he really needs to hire a real web page designer as his online store sucks for clarity, pictures, flexibility in ordering a kit (like a "build a kit" wizard), and even how to package kits to be more widely attractive.

I'm not saying you can't dig it out and get what you need.....but, its not a very good online store design in my never humble opinion.

Oh, did you try fix it stick limiters? And if so, and didn't like them in favor of the Borka, what was the diff?

Cheers
 
Hi Nik - I looked at Borka and I'm sure that they are great tools.....but man, he really needs to hire a real web page designer as his online store sucks for clarity, pictures, flexibility in ordering a kit (like a "build a kit" wizard), and even how to package kits to be more widely attractive.

I'm not saying you can't dig it out and get what you need.....but, its not a very good online store design in my never humble opinion.

Oh, did you try fix it stick limiters? And if so, and didn't like them in favor of the Borka, what was the diff?

Cheers
Not a fan of Fix-it sticks. That is just me not a slight on the product. I liked the BORKA set up better.

I use BORKA limiters only for specialized functions. It is different than a torque wrench. Not really necessary for mounting a scope where a range of values is OK. Limiter is necessary when a "not to exceed" torque value is required. The higher cost for a fixed value tool makes no sense to me so that is why I use both their regular torque wrench and the limiters when they are necessary.

I had no problem with the website and Boris is always available to answer questions and make you a kit exactly to your specifications if one of the standard kits don't apply.
 
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Not a fan of Fix-it sticks. That is just me not a slight on the product. I liked the BORKA set up better.

I use BORKA limiters for specialized functions. It is different than a torque wrench. Not really necessary for mounting a scope where a range of values is OK. Limiter is necessary when a "not to exceed" torque value is required. The higher cost for a fixed value tool makes no sense to me.

I had no problem with the website and Boris is always available to answer questions and make you a kit exactly to your specifications if one of the standard kits don't apply.
Thanks...and I too buy limiters and not an "all in one" torque wrench...inclu the fix it stick all in one. I believe them to be more precise and accurate but have nothing to back this up.

Thanks again for the reply.
 
Fix It Sticks torque limiters. A little pricey to get a set that covers most of the various rings/bases/actions, but so worth it. Never have to worry about correct setting or spring fatigue, etc.
 
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Check out CDI for a standard 1/4" torque wrench, made in USA also.
 
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Last I checked but you should check for yourself borka was +/- 3% and I believe keeping an entire kit in your range bag takes up less space than the fix it sticks
 
I use a CDI torque wrench model 4015M. It is made in the USA and they are a subsidiary of Snap-On tools. As for bits, I use Snap On tools 1/4 inch drive bits.
 
Not sure where to put it but mounting scopes I finally got a decent piece of glass so figure to install I should do it right and use a torque wrench.
Wiha
Vortex
Wheeler fat wrench.

I have trouble seeing fix it sticks being the right answer but maybe you can sell me on it.

Side note for I'm putting .88 US optic rings with a leupold 30mm vx5hd 3-15x56 onto a 20moa rail if it matters. If this was answered elsewhere please tag me. The clearance is about 1/8 of an inch so I'll be cutting a small chunk off the bottom of my bikini.
Sniper's Hide had a forum on the Vortex wrench in April 2017.

I've got the Wheeler FatBoy and have always been happy with it.

Don't forget to put it back to zero when finished, to protect the spring.
 
I for one prefer a tool that could be calibrated. Snap-on 1/4" drive is good to go and the Klein inch-pound screwdriver is also an excellent tool good for the lower ranges from the 5-40 inch-pound range. Snap-on 1/4" ratchet drive is used for anything over 40 inch-pounds. It ain't cheap, but then again these tools were required to be calibrated annually in my line work.
 
I’ve been using the wheeler fat wrench for the last year or so, and can’t complain.
 
Not sure where to put it but mounting scopes I finally got a decent piece of glass so figure to install I should do it right and use a torque wrench.
Wiha
Vortex
Wheeler fat wrench.

I have trouble seeing fix it sticks being the right answer but maybe you can sell me on it.

Side note for I'm putting .88 US optic rings with a leupold 30mm vx5hd 3-15x56 onto a 20moa rail if it matters. If this was answered elsewhere please tag me. The clearance is about 1/8 of an inch so I'll be cutting a small chunk off the bottom of my bikini.
I had a Fat Wrench and thought Fix It Sticks were a gimmick...NO...buy fix it sticks and never look back
 
I'll throw a completely different opinion.

Mountz torque drivers are extensively used in the precision industry. They have to be "disposed" or re-certified annually. I have two that I bought used off evilbay, and they perform exactly as they should. Adjustable from 10 to 50 lbs/in
 
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I have a Borka torque driver kit I've been using for the past five years consistently and I highly recommend it. It goes with me everywhere I might have to work on a firearm as well as the garage at home.

I've installed countless scopes and accessories (picatinny, m-lok, grips, and other parts) with it and the only issue I've had was a bit holder stopped locking, which Boris replaced for me immediately with an improved version.

The only downside is it didn't reach the 140 in-lb I needed for a single application, so I grabbed a Fix-It-Sticks torque limiter and T-handle for that, but the variability of the torque wrench and how little space it takes means it can go with me everywhere and not take up a lot of room.
 
The Borka is a mechanical device (lever arm)and requires no calibration at any time.
The set is compact and has a number of different bits useful for many tasks.
All I use!
 
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Not sure where to put it but mounting scopes I finally got a decent piece of glass so figure to install I should do it right and use a torque wrench.
Wiha
Vortex
Wheeler fat wrench.

I have trouble seeing fix it sticks being the right answer but maybe you can sell me on it.

Side note for I'm putting .88 US optic rings with a leupold 30mm vx5hd 3-15x56 onto a 20moa rail if it matters. If this was answered elsewhere please tag me. The clearance is about 1/8 of an inch so I'll be cutting a small chunk off the bottom of my bikini.
Of the three you mention only Wiha is of professional quality. CDI, Mountz, Tohnichi, Proto, Williams, and Seekonk are all other brands that I would consider.

Other stuff are just toys.
 
We tested two of our production adjustable torque drivers (BTD1070-IP) to 120,000 cycles of torque application w/o getting out of +/-4% accuracy tolerance range. No re-calibration was done during this testing. 120,000 cycles (for a handheld tool) is a lot more than any individual can possibly use in any reasonable amount of time. I have no idea why you may possibly know more about our products that we do, you do not own any of our tools, and you definetely hate our products for no apparent reason.
 
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Hi Nik - I looked at Borka and I'm sure that they are great tools.....but man, he really needs to hire a real web page designer as his online store sucks for clarity, pictures, flexibility in ordering a kit (like a "build a kit" wizard), and even how to package kits to be more widely attractive.

I'm not saying you can't dig it out and get what you need.....but, its not a very good online store design in my never humble opinion.

Oh, did you try fix it stick limiters? And if so, and didn't like them in favor of the Borka, what was the diff?

Cheers
I've built website by myself, and have done it as an engineer and a shooter. I want potential customers to learn a lot and then make their decision based on provided information. Just a nice picture and a price, in my opinion, does not cut it. I prefer to deal with knowledgeable customers.

Boris
Borka Tools
 
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I've built website by myself
haha...please don't take this personally, Boris....but it shows.

Just a nice picture and a price, in my opinion, does not cut it.
I don't recollect saying anything about not having pretty pictures or anything related to listing of prices. These are, IMO, not where your design falls short.

But, its your site and therefore yours to make it look as you wish. If you are happy with it, then no more needs to be said.

Best of luck.
 
I like to pack my range bag with a good set of dedicated tools to cover field service jobs. That kit was assembled many years ago and evolves as the firearms change but used to include a pair of low torque Whia and PI torque wrenches. But when the Borka torque wrench first came out I jumped on it and it has replaced the other torque wrenches which were shipped from my main roll-away.

Borka!
 
We tested two of our production adjustable torque drivers (BTD1070-IP) to 120,000 cycles of torque application w/o getting out of +/-4% accuracy tolerance range. No re-calibration was done during this testing. 120,000 cycles (for a handheld tool) is a lot more than any individual can possibly use in any reasonable amount of time. I have no idea why you may possibly know more about our products that we do, you do not own any of our tools, and you definetely hate our products for no apparent reason.
Boris you have been a great person to deal with and have really helped me out. Your kit has really been a life saver! You keep doing you - and we’ll take comfort in that.....
 
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We tested two of our production adjustable torque drivers (BTD1070-IP) to 120,000 cycles of torque application w/o getting out of +/-4% accuracy tolerance range. No re-calibration was done during this testing. 120,000 cycles (for a handheld tool) is a lot more than any individual can possibly use in any reasonable amount of time. I have no idea why you may possibly know more about our products that we do, you do not own any of our tools, and you definetely hate our products for no apparent reason.
I think what @308pirate meant is different than what you might be thinking.

Working in a professional environment EVERYTHING needs to be calibrated. And everything is. Calibrated as in tested against standards (in the US traceable to NIST) on a regular schedule.

Calibrated also can mean adjusting when it falls out of range but only adjusted at that point. Time between calibration varies on the tool. At work in an AS9100 shop my Snap-on torque wrenches are checked every 5 months. Most all of our tools are checked once a year even if they weren't used in that time. If they still have their wax they might just have their sticker updated but they were at least checked.

We even have a gage that is an L shaped piece of metal with 2 scribed lines 0.008 apart for checking a diminsion that is +or- 0.020" ground linear feature. No moving parts at all. Checked at least every 2 years.

Edit: What it boils down to is don't trust until it has been verified.

I am glad that your products are accurate and last. That is good to know. Certain applications require more. For my measuring tools at home I buy quality companies that come with certificates saying they are traceable to NIST (like my Mitutoyo calipers and mics do) and that is fine for there. If I took those same tools to work and they weren't calibrated and inspectors found that out, that would be a finding, possible big fine, and possible loss of certification which would mean lots of bad stuff with lots of angry customers including Lockheed, Raytheon, Cessna, Cirrus, Pilatus, and a few others.
 
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I think what @308pirate meant is different than what you might be thinking.

Working in a professional environment EVERYTHING needs to be calibrated. And everything is. Calibrated as in tested against standards (in the US traceable to NIST) on a regular schedule.

Calibrated also can mean adjusting when it falls out of range but only adjusted at that point. Time between calibration varies on the tool. At work in an AS9100 shop my Snap-on torque wrenches are checked every 5 months. Most all of our tools are checked once a year even if they weren't used in that time. If they still have their wax they might just have their sticker updated but they were at least checked.

We even have a gage that is an L shaped piece of metal with 2 scribed lines 0.008 apart for checking a diminsion that is +or- 0.020" ground linear feature. No moving parts at all. Checked at least every 2 years.

Edit: What it boils down to is don't trust until it has been verified.

I am glad that your products are accurate and last. That is good to know. Certain applications require more. For my measuring tools at home I buy quality companies that come with certificates saying they are traceable to NIST (like my Mitutoyo calipers and mics do) and that is fine for there. If I took those same tools to work and they weren't calibrated and inspectors found that out, that would be a finding, possible big fine, and possible loss of certification which would mean lots of bad stuff with lots of angry customers including Lockheed, Raytheon, Cessna, Cirrus, Pilatus, and a few others.
1. I have a good idea what 308pirate means. He is not a bad guy, but he developed a negative opinion about me and my tools a very long time ago and keeps sticking it to me any time he runs into Borka on SH. Which is funny, because he knows very little about me or my tools.

2. You correctly described how tools, including torque tools, are handled in INDUSTRIAL setting (production facilities, labs, etc.). So, I bet you know how annual audits work and all this ISO9001 (compliance) related fun, etc. I know very well about all these "calibration" stickers, ton of required records, etc. In the past, I was a member of the company audit team for at least 3 years.

3. In real life, none of #2 above is applicable when torque tools are in private use. What private owners of torque tools want to know is how long these tools can be used with confidence. I believe most of these people do not care about annual "calibration" stickers. Their obvious preference is tools quality and availability of support, if needed. We provide that, and also, 120,000 torque application cycles for our latest design of the adjustable torque driver, called BTD1070-IP. Such huge number of cycles before potential need for re-calibration is possible because of the unique BTD1070-IP design, use of high quality materials and exceptionally light duty cycle, typical for hand operated torque tools.

Boris
Borka Tools
 
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1. I have a good idea what 308pirate means. He is not a bad guy, but he developed a negative opinion about me and my tools a very long time ago and keeps sticking it to me any time he runs into Borka on SH. Which is funny, because he knows very little about me or my tools.

2. You correctly described how tools, including torque tools, are handled in INDUSTRIAL setting (production facilities, labs, etc.). So, I bet you know how annual audits work and all this ISO9001 (compliance) related fun, etc. I know very well about all these "calibration" stickers, ton of required records, etc. In the past, I was a member of the company audit team for at least 3 years.

3. In real life, none of #2 above is applicable when torque tools are in private use. What private owners of torque tools want to know is how long these tools can be used with confidence. I believe most of these people do not care about annual "calibration" stickers. Their obvious preference is tools quality and availability of support, if needed. We provide that, and also, 120,000 torque application cycles for our latest design of the adjustable torque driver, called BTD1070-IP. Such huge number of cycles before potential need for re-calibration is possible because of the unique BTD1070-IP design, use of high quality materials and exceptionally low duty cycle, typical for hand operated torque tools.

Boris
Borka Tools
Didn't know about #1. Explains the tone. Agree with the rest.

I also partly wrote it in response to others that might not be aware of the different meanings of calibration. There is a subtle difference between calibrate to test for accuracy and calibrate to adjust to bring into tolerance of accuracy. There are lots of people here on the Hide and the shooting community in general that don't understand machining practices, clearances, tolerances, and classes of fit. I try to help open some eyes when I can. Directed more to the general group but in a response to you.

I have no problem with you or your products and you seem like you know what you're talking about which is good. I don't have any of your products yet but I would have no problem owning them. All I have so far is a Fat wrench.
 
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Didn't know about #1. Explains the tone. Agree with the rest.

I also partly wrote it in response to others that might not be aware of the different meanings of calibration. There are lots of people here on the Hide and the shooting community in general that don't understand machining practices, clearances, tolerances, and classes of fit. I try to help open some eyes when I can. Directed more to the general group but in a response to you.

I have no problem with you or your products and you seem like you know what you're talking about which is good. I don't have any of your products yet but I would have no problem owning them. All I have so far is a Fat wrench.
Perfectly understand what you're doing. Thank you.
 
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