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Rifle Scopes Ideal switch mount for NF BEAST

N

nwilling

Full Member
Full Member
Minuteman
May 5, 2013
121
1
Valdosta, GA
#1
I have a 300WM being built on a surgeon action with an m24 contour barrel and will be mounting a BEAST on it when they both come in. I had originally intended to use NF rings in the lowest possible configuration but am itching to buy a new AI AT in the next year or so. I do not have any other scopes laying around and do not see myself wanting to invest in another high end optic anytime soon. I'm toying with the idea of starting off with a mount so I could eventually swap it between the two and while I'd really like a Spuhr because they seem to be the best on the market, the two compatible ones, sp4003b and sp4603b, seem like they'd be way too high at 1.5". For both of these types of guns I'd think something around the 1.18" would be more suitable but they do not make them in that height yet. Are there any other options out there?
Also, since the NF has a 20moa cant built in, should I try base with an additional 20moa in it since the BEAST's overall travel is 120 total? I'm not sure if the AT's base comes with any cant in it already but I'd be looking at a 260 and 308 barrel to swap out.
Thanks in advance
 
#2
I'm not a big advocate of swapping scopes back and forth, but I've had surprisingly good success with return to zero after swaps before with Seekins, Badger and ARC rings...

...as long as the scope is put back in the same picatinny slots as before, firmly pushed forward while tightening the clamps, and properly torqued.

Often, no zero adjustment is needed. When it is, its only a click or two.

Sorry, no experience with the big fancy unimount types.
 
#3
I'd certainly like to have two separate scopes but I've sort of designed the 300WM as my longer range rifle with heavier loads for use outside of a typical range and if I got the AT it would be used inside of 1200 or so, so maybe I'd be able to get away without swapping it much. I figure since it would be a switch barrel I'd be rezeroing plenty?

Do you think swapping rings from one rifle to another would cause ring marks?
 
#4
Rezeroing should really only take 2-3 rounds. It'll be damn close, if not spot on. It's just kind of a bummer having a rifle in the safe that's not squared away until you've attached a scope and gotten it on paper at 100 yards.

But I get it - good glass costs $2k+, so it's also kind of a bummer buying a bunch of them.

Anyway, you leave the scope mounted in rings/unimount and you just unclamp it from the rail and stick it on the other rifle. Shouldn't cause ring marks, because the scope rarely gets removed from the rings. On a side note - care more about developing your marksmanship and less about ring marks.

Again, I get it - good glass costs $2k+ and you don't wanna fuck it up. But ring marks don't "fuck up" a scope. So they decrease resale value $50. You probably burn $50 in ammo/barrel in one range session. Fuck it.
 
#5
I simply have the unimount fro my NF for my 5.5x22x56. I use it for several guns ranging from an AR to a DTA in a .338 Norma Magnum AI. All I do is carry a torque wrench with me and have written down with each rifle what the zero is and I'm set. I have had no issues at all. Keeping everyrhing consistent is the key. Don't waste the money on an optic for each rifle, you can use that for a new gun etc...

QD mounts are nice as well. It's just hard to make sure that they stay on the same tension if you unscrew it by some chance and then your torque will be off throwing your zero off again.
 
#8
waveslayer said:
I simply have the unimount fro my NF for my 5.5x22x56. I use it for several guns ranging from an AR to a DTA in a .338 Norma Magnum AI. All I do is carry a torque wrench with me and have written down with each rifle what the zero is and I'm set. I have had no issues at all. Keeping everyrhing consistent is the key. Don't waste the money on an optic for each rifle, you can use that for a new gun etc...

QD mounts are nice as well. It's just hard to make sure that they stay on the same tension if you unscrew it by some chance and then your torque will be off throwing your zero off again.
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same thing. I'd carry a torque wrench of course, just noting the zero changes. I really like the Spuhr mounts, just not the height. My 300wm has an adjustable comb and if I get the ai at it would as well. Am I too concerned with sight height?


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#9
HodgdonExtreme said:
Rezeroing should really only take 2-3 rounds. It'll be damn close, if not spot on. It's just kind of a bummer having a rifle in the safe that's not squared away until you've attached a scope and gotten it on paper at 100 yards.

But I get it - good glass costs $2k+, so it's also kind of a bummer buying a bunch of them.

Anyway, you leave the scope mounted in rings/unimount and you just unclamp it from the rail and stick it on the other rifle. Shouldn't cause ring marks, because the scope rarely gets removed from the rings. On a side note - care more about developing your marksmanship and less about ring marks.

Again, I get it - good glass costs $2k+ and you don't wanna fuck it up. But ring marks don't "fuck up" a scope. So they decrease resale value $50. You probably burn $50 in ammo/barrel in one range session. Fuck it.
Click to expand...

I hear you, and I definitely don't plan on selling anything I own gun related. I guess I was wondering more about putting additional stress on the scope body with separate rings.


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#10
nwilling said:
I was thinking the same thing. I'd carry a torque wrench of course, just noting the zero changes. I really like the Spuhr mounts, just not the height. My 300wm has an adjustable comb and if I get the ai at it would as well. Am I too concerned with sight height?


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Click to expand...

The height concern depends on how far you are going to be shooting. With BEAST you have a lot of adjustments as well as on the Reticle. My buddy has the Spuhr mount... hard for me to justify the cost... I shot on Saturday using my NF on 4 different guns and on 2 different barrels in the DTA and not one issue using my data to adjust back to zero. I have the zero stop set for my .223 since all the other rounds are come ups compared to it.
 
#11
waveslayer said:
The height concern depends on how far you are going to be shooting. With BEAST you have a lot of adjustments as well as on the Reticle. My buddy has the Spuhr mount... hard for me to justify the cost... I shot on Saturday using my NF on 4 different guns and on 2 different barrels in the DTA and not one issue using my data to adjust back to zero. I have the zero stop set for my .223 since all the other rounds are come ups compared to it.
Click to expand...

Which DTA mount do you run? Euro optic has them for 370 I believe, unless I'm looking at the wrong thing. I'm loading for long range on the 300wm. My goal is a mile, around 18 mils of drop with the load I'm looking at. The surgeon action has a 20moa base (around 6mils). The beast has about 35 mils of adjustment and with my math it should work out.
(35/2)+6=23.5
I'm not sure what kind of cant the ai at base has... Anyone know?
Anyhow, I'm wondering if I should get a mount with an additional 6mils of cant to give me 29.5 mils to work with... Or would this be too close to the top end of the beast's range? I'd obviously want to make it compatible for all the rifles I'd be shooting it with, likely a 260 or 308 with the AT.


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#12
I have a Spuhr on my rifle and swapped the scope off it to test another scope that I thought was giving me issues (the rifle/load it was on was actually the culprit) and when remounting my primary optic that lives in the Spuhr, it was dead on, no shift in zero at all. So I'd say that one is a go. The other scope is in a Larue, and while it's a good mount, There's a definite issue with the tension on it due to difference in the rail it was being mounted to. One was a steel NF rail, and the other is an AR15 upper (aluminum) and it was noticeable as to how tight the levers were going from one to the other.

The GDI unit looks to be a much better setup as compared to the Larue in this instance, although I would assume one could run into issues of the same type bewteen rails. Honestly at this point, I think a good non-QD uni-mount is the way to go when swapping from one rifle to another as by going to a set torque spec, the tension will stay more consistent from rail to rail and just carry a torque wrench. The aforementioned issue could probably be mitigated significantly by using the same rail on all rifles but if you throw an AI or AR into the mix that's pretty much out the window.
 
#13
nwilling said:
Which DTA mount do you run? Euro optic has them for 370 I believe, unless I'm looking at the wrong thing. I'm loading for long range on the 300wm. My goal is a mile, around 18 mils of drop with the load I'm looking at. The surgeon action has a 20moa base (around 6mils). The beast has about 35 mils of adjustment and with my math it should work out.
(35/2)+6=23.5
I'm not sure what kind of cant the ai at base has... Anyone know?
Anyhow, I'm wondering if I should get a mount with an additional 6mils of cant to give me 29.5 mils to work with... Or would this be too close to the top end of the beast's range? I'd obviously want to make it compatible for all the rifles I'd be shooting it with, likely a 260 or 308 with the AT.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I'm just using the unimount from NF with 20 MOA
 
#14
I'm a 1911 nut and Wilson Combat is my go to brand. They make a switch mount with a dial that is rock solid and quite simple to take off. If you go to their website you will find Bill Wilson demonstrating this on one of his ARs while he removes it and returns it several times as he hits 1 hole groups. I'm betting its a 223 or 300AAC, but I'm sure it can handle a 300 win. It's not overly priced either like most of the name brand ones. I have also had the same results as Bill on my 308 ARs. I have yet to have to adjust it so once you figure out your MOA differences, you will be good to go to dial them in on each rifle.
 
#17
Assault116 said:
I have a Spuhr on my rifle and swapped the scope off it to test another scope that I thought was giving me issues (the rifle/load it was on was actually the culprit) and when remounting my primary optic that lives in the Spuhr, it was dead on, no shift in zero at all. So I'd say that one is a go. The other scope is in a Larue, and while it's a good mount, There's a definite issue with the tension on it due to difference in the rail it was being mounted to. One was a steel NF rail, and the other is an AR15 upper (aluminum) and it was noticeable as to how tight the levers were going from one to the other.

The GDI unit looks to be a much better setup as compared to the Larue in this instance, although I would assume one could run into issues of the same type bewteen rails. Honestly at this point, I think a good non-QD uni-mount is the way to go when swapping from one rifle to another as by going to a set torque spec, the tension will stay more consistent from rail to rail and just carry a torque wrench. The aforementioned issue could probably be mitigated significantly by using the same rail on all rifles but if you throw an AI or AR into the mix that's pretty much out the window.
Click to expand...

I'll take a look at the GDI a little more closely, really considering just going with the higher mounted spuhr, just don't want to regret it later...


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#18
mikeltee said:
I'm a 1911 nut and Wilson Combat is my go to brand. They make a switch mount with a dial that is rock solid and quite simple to take off. If you go to their website you will find Bill Wilson demonstrating this on one of his ARs while he removes it and returns it several times as he hits 1 hole groups. I'm betting its a 223 or 300AAC, but I'm sure it can handle a 300 win. It's not overly priced either like most of the name brand ones. I have also had the same results as Bill on my 308 ARs. I have yet to have to adjust it so once you figure out your MOA differences, you will be good to go to dial them in on each rifle.
Click to expand...

They look really nice but seem to be really high for a bolt gun, and I can't seem to find it in 34mm


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#19
Don't all of the GDI mounts have a 1.46" centerline height also? I'd love to know if they're lower. I saw one (the cantilevered "L" model) up at Mile High Shooting and measured it. It was a while back, but I'm almost positive in rung in with a centerline as high or higher than the Spuhr. The only ones I've seen with a lower CL are the ADM mounts and one newer one Larue was making with a 1.2"-ish CL.
 
#22
I would stay away from throw lever mounts if switching from gun to gun. Taking them off and putting them back on the same gun is fine because they are adjusted to that specific pic rail. However, when you switch from gun to gun the rails may be slightly different and then the rail clamps have to be adjusted anyway. If it were me I would look at a set of badger rings or their unimount. With either it is just 2 1/2 inch nuts and done. Get a nice t handle torque wrench that is preset at 65 inch lbs and it will go back to where it was every time.
 
#24
ajwcotton said:
I would stay away from throw lever mounts if switching from gun to gun. Taking them off and putting them back on the same gun is fine because they are adjusted to that specific pic rail. However, when you switch from gun to gun the rails may be slightly different and then the rail clamps have to be adjusted anyway. If it were me I would look at a set of badger rings or their unimount. With either it is just 2 1/2 inch nuts and done. Get a nice t handle torque wrench that is preset at 65 inch lbs and it will go back to where it was every time.
Click to expand...

It looks like their 34mm uni mount with 0 cant is 1.49in high as well, I'm beginning to think separate rings are the way to go...


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#25
Personally I would use separate rings in the appropriate height. I know badger is going to be making lower unimounts for a contract, I don't know how long it will be before they are for sale though. If you're not in a hurry you might see if they come out before you get the AT.
 
#27
I use Recknagel ERA tac mounts. They have one with cross bolts and one with quick detach. I have the QD and use it on two rifles. I have a cheaper backup scope but if in shooting a comp or what're I swap my march over. Wife won't go for 2 marches so....
Holds zero and going from one gun to the next it was about 3-5 rounds. Now that I have done it a few times I can just dial in what I have the last few times and it's within a half moa. For me it's been alright. Would love another March but I have to be somewhat responsible.
 
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