Suppressors Ideas for Keeping Surefire SOCOM from Sticking so much?

[Gustav7]

I've mastered getting it off after an extended shooting but is there anything you guys are putting on the brake or suppressor to help keep it from sticking so damn bad?

Or am I stuck with just cleaning the brake more often?

 

[HenryTheAce]

I’ve never had my Socom’s stick. I clean the collar and brakes/flash hiders after use and remove the can while it’s still hot.

 

[Zane1844]

I've started cleaning everything after shooting and applying high temp anti seize which seems to help.

 

[Gustav7]

I've started cleaning everything after shooting and applying high temp anti seize which seems to help.

Anti-seize would probably be worth a try. I shoot alot on my property and woods, so Its not like I always have "shooting sessions". So I got longer periods without cleaning or taking off the suppressor, which is the main reason I was looking for a better way.

 

[SourGrapes]

https://www.griffinarmament.com/horse-jipe-2300-suppressor-anti-seize/

I haven’t used this on my rc2 yet but I’ve been using it on a silencerco/hellfire mount and haven’t had any issues.

 

[FishinGuns]

I bought two large jars of the stuff from McMaster Carr before Griffin started selling the little containers. Stuff helps, especially on taper mounts.

 

[silentwoods]

Loctite nickel anti-seize 2400 deg. Works fantastic.
Cheap.

 

[Gustav7]

Loctite nickel anti-seize 2400 deg. Works fantastic.
Cheap.

I’ll give this a shot. Should be on amazon rather cheap. Sounds like any decent high heat anti seize will work

 

[FishinGuns]

Stuff I have is high-heat, food-grade anti-seize and it works great.

 

[silentwoods]

I’ll give this a shot. Should be on amazon rather cheap. Sounds like any decent high heat anti seize will work

I use it on can pistons, direct thread cans and sparingly in any q/d mounts.
used it for over a decade, worked every time.

 

[WATERWALKER]

I’ve got an RC2 & I lube the brakes on my rifles 100% of the time before attaching the can. This simple act will make your life & time at the range far less frustrating. I clean the muzzle brakes as needed. I generally use FIREClean & it’s worked really well in my experience.

 

[Gustav7]

I’ve got an RC2 & I lube the brakes on my rifles 100% of the time before attaching the can. This simple act will make your life & time at the range far less frustrating. I clean the muzzle brakes as needed. I generally use FIREClean & it’s worked really well in my experience.

There in lies my main problem is my range is also my backyard, so I often keep the suppressor on one of my rifles for a lot of shorter shooting sessions in the woods or what have you, then they get left on for a week or days or whatever. I was using nothing before and just pounding it off every once in a while and scrubbing everything down. I should probably make it more of a habit but I lose track of when the hell I took it off lol.

A lot of good advice on here, I'll start using this nickel anti-seize on all my brakes and go from there.

 

[Hateca]

I’ve had to cut a few barrel out of direct thread suppressors that were not removed after each shooting session. They get carbon locked. This can happen with adapter types as well. Best thing is remove the can after each shooting day if for nothing else but to break up any carbon, then put it back on If you store that way. Get one carbon lock just once and you won’t do it again.

 

[silentwoods]

I’ve had to cut a few barrel out of direct thread suppressors that were not removed after each shooting session. They get carbon locked. This can happen with adapter types as well. Best thing is remove the can after each shooting day if for nothing else but to break up any carbon, then put it back on If you store that way. Get one carbon lock just once and you won’t do it again.

I always remove cans after shooting, not purely to prevent this, but because my inner ocd kicks in and I clean it.

The only time I leave one on between shooting trips is when I go west and shoot. My SRT Shadow stays on for several days. Only used a strap wrench oncce on it because of carbon, copper antiseize not being as good as the nickel.

 

[NighthawkCG]

What type of ammo are you shooting? Is it worth trying to find something that burns a bit cleaner?

I know the Surefire cans do tend to lock up, but at one point I am pretty sure they also said shoot it off if needed. Like said above, at minimum I'd just break the lock collar and wiggle it a bit after sessions. Used fire clean treatment as well on my mounts (SF and AAC) and have no issues. Some people cry snake oil, but to me it works.

 

[Gustav7]

What type of ammo are you shooting? Is it worth trying to find something that burns a bit cleaner?

I know the Surefire cans do tend to lock up, but at one point I am pretty sure they also said shoot it off if needed. Like said above, at minimum I'd just break the lock collar and wiggle it a bit after sessions. Used fire clean treatment as well on my mounts (SF and AAC) and have no issues. Some people cry snake oil, but to me it works.

These days, 80% of what I shoot is reloads. Last year I did a LOT of load development with different bullets, everything from plinking to varmint to precision...so I prolly tried like 10 different powders, doubt that helped.

The first couple years of suppressor use I shot mainly PMC brass and Federal American Eagle. Now I've settled on two powders for my reloads, H335 in my plinking ammo and XBR 8208 in my precision.

All that being said, I used to use no lube or oil or anti seize on it and would shoot for weeks without taking it off and letting it sit for days/weeks. So I'm taking a good guess that simply using Anti -seize and taking it off, putting it back on more regularly should help my issue a lot.