Rifle Scopes I'm about to buy a Nightforce...and I'm a noob

manosteel00

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Mar 25, 2009
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So, I recently caught the Black Rifle bug and in a period of about 6 months, spent way more than I thought on this.

The final piece to the puzzle is an optic. I've build a 16" Midlength AR-15 and a 18" SPR AR-15. I've finally decided, through speaking to numerous shooters, that a Nightforce 2.5-10x32 is best fit for what kind of shooting I would like to do.

However...I have a few issues that I need to sort out before purchasing.

1.) Reticle: I've decided to go with an NP-R1 instead of a Mildot as ranging is supposedly easier. Is this a good call?

2.) Mil or MOA turrents? I have no idea what to get, what they do, etc.

3.) I'm going with a Larue SPR mount...seems like a smart choice.

4.) What distance do you zero an optic like this?

5.) Is zero stop worth it? What exactly is the advantage?

I really want this!!!!

pb031086.jpg



Thanks!
 

Ratbert

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Jul 18, 2007
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Re: I'm about to buy a Nightforce...and I'm a noob

I believe only NP-R2 reticles are avialable for the 2.5-10. The NP-R2 uses 2MOA tick marks on the verticle and 5 MOA ticks on the horizontal. I used it on a 2.5-10x24 and found it to be too large to effectively subtend or use for wind holds. The NP-R1, if offered in the 2.5-10, would be too small and busy @ 10x, I fear.

I plan on owning a 2.5-10x32 when my next build is complete, but it will be a Mildot version.

If you get the NP-r2, then get MOA turrets. If you get the Mildot version then get Mil turrets. It doesn't really matter which (except see above about the MOA reticle) as long as the turrets match the reticle.

Zero the optic @ 100 yds. Then you can dial up from there to whatever you like. If you want to wonder around with the scope set on your 250yd zero to give you an effective danger-zone out to almost 300 then great, but zero the optic @ 100 first. This way you're not worrying about wind and other issues coming into play during the zeroing process.

The zero stop is absolutely worth the extra $$$. The turrets only have 10MOA or 6Mil of adjustment per turn. If you shoot at any distance at all you will have to use multiple revolutions to reach the necessary adjustment. WIth the zero stop you never have to worry about remembering how many revolutions up or down you are. The way they designed it is top-flight and don't think that it is something you can just tack on later on your own if you wish (as some old threads you might google could lead you to believe)

Nice choice.
 

manosteel00

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Mar 25, 2009
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Re: I'm about to buy a Nightforce...and I'm a noob

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ratbert</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I believe only NP-R2 reticles are avialable for the 2.5-10. The NP-R2 uses 2MOA tick marks on the verticle and 5 MOA ticks on the horizontal. I used it on a 2.5-10x24 and found it to be too large to effectively subtend or use for wind holds. The NP-R1, if offered in the 2.5-10, would be too small and busy @ 10x, I fear.

I plan on owning a 2.5-10x32 when my next build is complete, but it will be a Mildot version.

If you get the NP-r2, then get MOA turrets. If you get the Mildot version then get Mil turrets. It doesn't really matter which (except see above about the MOA reticle) as long as the turrets match the reticle.

Zero the optic @ 100 yds. Then you can dial up from there to whatever you like. If you want to wonder around with the scope set on your 250yd zero to give you an effective danger-zone out to almost 300 then great, but zero the optic @ 100 first. This way you're not worrying about wind and other issues coming into play during the zeroing process.

The zero stop is absolutely worth the extra $$$. The turrets only have 10MOA or 6Mil of adjustment per turn. If you shoot at any distance at all you will have to use multiple revolutions to reach the necessary adjustment. WIth the zero stop you never have to worry about remembering how many revolutions up or down you are. The way they designed it is top-flight and don't think that it is something you can just tack on later on your own if you wish (as some old threads you might google could lead you to believe)

Nice choice. </div></div>

Thanks for the great advice. I'll spend most of tonight researching but think I'm going to go down the Mildot route.

I took three advanced Calculus classes in College...I'm going to ask for my money back if I cant figure it out...haha!
 

Ratbert

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Jul 18, 2007
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Re: I'm about to buy a Nightforce...and I'm a noob

Mil is no different than MOA, any more than cm is any different than inches. Just a different unit of measure for the same thing.

BTW, fill out your profile and you're more likely to get the real experts to offer to give you a hand with anything you aren't clear on.


 

Addicted

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Apr 1, 2009
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Re: I'm about to buy a Nightforce...and I'm a noob

If you go Mildot route, wouldn't the MLR reticle be a good choice? I'm looking at a NF as well and you are helping educate me.
 

Ratbert

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Re: I'm about to buy a Nightforce...and I'm a noob

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Addicted</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you go Mildot route, wouldn't the MLR reticle be a good choice? I'm looking at a NF as well and you are helping educate me. </div></div>

Also not available in the 2.5-10x32, unforunately. If it were, then I certainly would pick it for mine.

All that you can get in the 2.5-10 (IIRC) is the NP-1, NP-R2, FC-2, and MilDot.

Of those, only the MilDot is actually useful for anything other than indicating where the center of the scope is (IMHO.)

To be fair, though, it's not intended as a precision optic, really. I believe it's intended to be run @ 2.5x a lot more than 10x. In that situation all you need is something showing you where POA is.

 

Addicted

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Re: I'm about to buy a Nightforce...and I'm a noob

Thank you. I am looking more toward the F1 and was kind of where my question was intended. However, I think you answered the question anyway.
 

manosteel00

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Mar 25, 2009
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Re: I'm about to buy a Nightforce...and I'm a noob

Thanks for the help.

I plan to make a purchase soon.

However, I need to figure out whether to go with Mil or MOA turrents? Would either work? What would be the best bet? I have a great deal on a new Mildot MOA turrent combo and want to make sure it wouldn't totally screw up my learning curve on long range shooting.