- Thread starter tridiumk
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Acetone or alcohol takes it right off.
Goof Off will take crayon wax off, so I would imagine it would work on other waxes as well.
It sure seems like a lot of trouble to go through when there are water based lubes or spray lubes that can be left on without harming the primer. I know some people get really worked up over lube choices, but they all seem to work fine. I don't understand the need to use those that create extra steps. In 20 years, I've used my stuck case remover exactly once. I was making dummy set up rounds and started on a 223 right after a 45acp. Forgot to put ANY lube on it. Results were predictable.<script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/e43f3fd0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/e43f3fd0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>
It sure seems like a lot of trouble to go through when there are water based lubes or spray lubes that can be left on without harming the primer. I know some people get really worked up over lube choices, but they all seem to work fine. I don't understand the need to use those that create extra steps. In 20 years, I've used my stuck case remover exactly once. I was making dummy set up rounds and started on a 223 right after a 45acp. Forgot to put ANY lube on it. Results were predictable.<script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/e43f3fd0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/e43f3fd0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>
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That seems odd. Maybe an oversized chamber and an undersized die? Typically, I've noticed more difficult resizing when using a small base die, but that wouldn't be the case with 338LM. I've resized a lot of 338LM brass with RCBS dies and One Shot and it didn't seem any more difficult than other calibers.
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I tumble in a separate batch of corn cob after using Imperial, takes it off in 15 minutes. I use a separate batch of cob so it doesn't contaminate my 'polishing' media.
I use isopropyl alcohol or CFC free break cleaner and it comes off very easy. If I am doing a large batch, I just throw the brass back in my tumbler with corncob media and it takes about 15 minutes as mentioned above.
The Capn'
The Capn'
Windex
mineral spirits in corn cob or walnut. Just enough to make the media turn a bit darker from being damp. A capfull or 2 from the gallon jug I have. Usually simply named "paint thinner" at wally world or Lowes. I use this method for ALL my brass cleaning--no polish etc.
OK. Looks like you have some suggestions for dissolving. I just thought this might still be an issue:
http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...t/232623-forster-dies-having-major-issue.html<script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/e43f3fd0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/e43f3fd0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script><script type="text/javascript" src="safari-extension://com.ebay.safari.myebaymanager-QYHMMGCMJR/e43f3fd0/background/helpers/prefilterHelper.js"></script>
tumble the sized brass or loaded ammo in treated corn cob media
Coleman fuel.
Lighter fluid on an old TEE shirt is what I have used for years.
I use rubbing alcohol and a t shirt, takes no time. Are you using too much wax? Just tap your finger and thumb in the imperial and twist the case once between them and done. Shouldn't even really be able to see it.
Forster Sizing Lube works great for 338LM
De-waxing recipe: Takes longer to explain than to do! Throw brass into a stainless steel mixing bowl, run hot water over them while stirring, add a few drops of liquid soap, stir some more, let soak for a minute, rinse with more hot water, and drain. Dump batch onto a kitchen towel on a flat counter, pat and roll brass dry, pick up towel by corners to make a little pouch, squeeze and pinch towel contents to complete quick dry, dump brass on metal tray, spread evenly, and place into convection oven set at 170-180 F for about 20 minutes to finish drying.
Truth be told, I think the hot water and stirring removes most of the wax, soap does next to nothing, the towel gets a bit more of it off, and the oven probably evaporates the rest! And if there is any wax left after that, hell, it's not enough to matter! Or you could drop them in a tumbler and load some other stuff
I never heard of "Metho", I just use a little 91% isopropyl or denatured, usually I just wash my cases in simple green and hot water after sizing and dry 'em in the oven. Sometimes, if I only have a few, I just wipe 'em good with a rag. I clean my dies with acetone or alcohol.
Throw brass into a stainless steel mixing bowl, run hot water over them while stirring, add a few drops of liquid soap, stir some more, let soak for a minute, rinse with more hot water, and drain. Dump batch onto a kitchen towel on a flat counter, pat and roll brass dry, pick up towel by corners to make a little pouch, squeeze and pinch towel contents to complete quick dry, dump brass on metal tray, spread evenly, and place into convection oven set at 170-180 F for about 20 minutes to finish drying.
That's exactly what I do, except I use a plastic coffee can and a little simple green, and shake it up.
It sure as hell ain't rocket science to clean cases after using Imperial,,unless maybe you are using ultra sound, which I don't.
I have just recently tried the Forster lube, seems to work pretty durn good.
As far as coleman fuel and lighter fluid, they are naphtha, and obviously works well.
About anything that cuts oil will work, but I wouldn't recommend gasoline.
About anything that cuts oil will work, but I wouldn't recommend gasoline.
Non chlorinated break cleaner works like a charm for me.
I sat and watched the current world record holder at 100 yards load shoot load shoot, his brass has hundreds of loads thru it, and his 5 shot practice groups start with .0--. The lesson I learn from Mike Stinnet was that ultra clean brass is not needed for accurate rounds, wiping off Imperial is all that is needed, and carbon inside the neck is a good thing.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^THIS Xs A LOT^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
What you said. I use Imperial but use it sparingly, just like it says on the lid. My brass is tumbled prior to sizing so its clean. I just wipe it off with an old t shirt. If I went through some of the steps mentioned it would drive me nuts but to each his own. My handloads are consistently 1/2 to 3/4 moa and many under 1/2 moa with my AI AT in .308 Win and consistently sub 1/2 moa with my AI AE in 6.5 CM so I am happy with my current results and see no reason to change.
Imperial is about all I use for 223, 308, 300 WinMag,300WSM. 7-08, 7 Rem, 6.8, 375 H&H, 416 Rigby, 243. 284 Win, etc. Takes very little and I have never tried removing lube after loading. ???
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