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Inexpensive Bullet For 30-06 Deer and Elk hunting?

W

welldonecj7

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Sep 30, 2013
26
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Oregon
As the title states i am looking to find an inexpensive bullet for my 30-06 that will work well for both deer and elk. I have done some research but keep getting confused by all the different options and would like to know what works well so thought I would see what has actually worked well for you guys.

My rifle is a Ruger M77 MarkII 30-06.
 
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inexpensive is subjective. If it's cheap and doesn't work, what good is it. 180 gr Nosler Partitions are tried and true, have been for many years. There are a lot of other great bullets out there, but that is what I use. As an aside two deer this weekend with discontinued speer spbt, cheap, terrible terminal performance, saving grace was good shots. Bullet should mushroom, hold together, retain weight, expend energy. Partitions do, trying on the cheap, total core/jacket separation after less than approx eight inches penetration. Where in oregon are you? The muleys here are pretty tough, the blacktails pretty forgiving, the elk are not.
 
I know what you mean about cheap if it doesn't work, just looking to see if anyone has had good experience with a projectile that also allows to keep the cost down. I live up near Salem.
 
208 amax or nosler 200gr accubonds are my favorites for 30-06 with the 208 amax the less expensive of the two....
 
The lowest cost bullet I would consider in this scenario would be Hornady's Interlock in 180 grain weight. Work carefully up to 56 grains of IMR 4350 in Winchester brass (55.8 in Remington, 55.7 in Federal) and I'd say you'll do well.
 
Remington Core-Lokt Express .30-'06; 150gr for Deer, 180gr for Elk. Buy it, sight in, shoot it. Done, and done.

125gr Managed Recoil for the smaller folk. Get closer...

My rifle is a Ruger 77 MKI .30-'06.

Greg
 
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OP, after all the things it takes to get a shot on a deer or elk- all the planning, driving, hiking, camping, glassing, and pure dumb luck that puts you in the right spot, at the right time- you want save ten cents on a bullet? Buy quality, such as the Accubonds, and you'll never regret it. After all the expense, the price of a bullet is miniscule.

1911fan
 
Cheap usually comes with a disadvantage.
Partitions are indeed relatively cheap, but as mentioned above they don't penetrate very deep before core jacket seperation.
I've also seen others hitting relatively solid bones a few times on as small game as deer, and it has just left the animals wounded.
As always bullet placement is everything, but for my sake i don't shoot animals with bullets that won't do the job if i should be be unlucky enough to pull a shot and hit bone.
Now a days i only use Barnes TTSX, or Accubonds. Swift A-frames and TSX will do the job well too, just not my preferred bullets.

Shooting relatively large game with match bullets is just stupid and irresponsible in my opinion but each to they're own.
Where i live it's simply illegal so this problem i never encounter here.
 
For deer sized game I have had excellent service from Hornady SST and Interbond...for elk I have been using Hornady GMX and Barnes TSX. All fly amazingly well...accuracy is amazing and terminal performance is spot on!!
 
I have to agree. I'd be looking for the "Most expensive{best bullet} out there.
1911fan said:
OP, after all the things it takes to get a shot on a deer or elk- all the planning, driving, hiking, camping, glassing, and pure dumb luck that puts you in the right spot, at the right time- you want save ten cents on a bullet? Buy quality, such as the Accubonds, and you'll never regret it. After all the expense, the price of a bullet is miniscule.

1911fan
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I'd rather spend an extra dime on my bullet than track a wounded animal several miles and possibly not recover. I like Nosler Accubonds for these animals. The Nosler Hunting Ballistic tips work on our hogs and white tails around here, but since you are hunting elk too, I'd say go with the Accubond.
 
WellDone - I've got some 200gr Sierra Game Kings that I use for my 308 that you can try. No idea how they stand up against Muleys or Elk - mine have only hit paper up to 300 yards, and air tanks at 500. 1/2" aluminum wall, it enters just fine. Need a dead on shot for an exit hole.

Deadshot2 said:
For deer and elk I use Venison Meat, Red Deer, Fallow DEER MEAT, even Whitetail! - Venison SALES at ElkUSA.com

Don't have to buy a $40,000 4X4.
Don't have to spend another $10,000 on a camp "outfit"
Don't have to buy a $1500 rifle for hunting with another $1500 in optics

Best of all I don't have to go live in a tent and pretend I'm homeless for a week.

Stuff comes right to my door and look at all the money I'm saving :) :) :)
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Deadshot, I look homeless, so going hunting is the one place where people don't comment on it. I like being alone out in the woods. Make me appreciate people when I see them again. Don't care for the hunters I've run into who are higher than kites, though.
 
My point with the inexpensive wasn't that i was trying to go with the cheapest or a bad bullet. I was just looking for some opinions as i have limited experience with projectiles. If i need to spend money on them to have good bullet that's no problem. I simply thought if there were some less expensive that work well i could save a little money; if not possible that's fine.
 
Dan Newberry said:
The lowest cost bullet I would consider in this scenario would be Hornady's Interlock in 180 grain weight. Work carefully up to 56 grains of IMR 4350 in Winchester brass (55.8 in Remington, 55.7 in Federal) and I'd say you'll do well.
Click to expand...

Having shot Sierra, Speer and Hornady interlocks I was surprised when I recovered the bullets from the dirt berm years ago when testing loads. The Hornady interlock bullets held together but the Sierra and Speer bullets would separate from the lead core. From then on I hunted with Hornady interlocks and I think they hold together like Nosler partitions do.
 
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I have had great success with 165 grain Nosler Accubonds in my .308. Several deer and elk have been relocated to my walk in cooler with it. If memory serves me correctly, the farthest elk to date with that bullet was a cow at 540 meters.
 
180 Partition. The nose does blow off for rapid kills on smaller game but 2/3 of the bullet penetrates the animal. Last 6x6 I killed was at 500 yards...couldn't get closer across the canyon. 210 gr .338 in the Win Mag. Complete side to side penetration and one round broke the shoulder joint on the opposite side. Killed a 550 plus pound Hog with one 150 grain partition in the .270 Winchester. IMHO the Partition is GTG.
 
I'd start and end with the 180 grain Nosler Ballistic Tip. Great for deer and elk, it's plenty tough for African plains game also.
Hornady 180 Interlock is also a great bullet for the money.
 
For a hunting bullet, you can do load development and have plenty for two seasons within a box of 100.

I would think you can afford buying the best bullet possible
 
1911fan said:
OP, after all the things it takes to get a shot on a deer or elk- all the planning, driving, hiking, camping, glassing, and pure dumb luck that puts you in the right spot, at the right time- you want save ten cents on a bullet? Buy quality, such as the Accubonds, and you'll never regret it. After all the expense, the price of a bullet is miniscule.

1911fan
Click to expand...

Very well said
 
Inexpensive Bullet For 30-06 Deer and Elk hunting?

You don't need any special bullet for elk. The skin is not armored. Buy or load good ammo. Nothing more.
 
Sierra 165 gr. Spitzer Boat Tail Game King is my favorite for .30-06. It has never let me down.
 
I have to agree with Graham:
You will have to work up a load with whatever projectile you choose. Yes, a box of 100 will provide you with plenty to do this, plus a few hunting seasons worth. (Unless you are attacked by a herd of rabid elk and forced to defend yourself! Ha Ha.)
I have used Horanady IB 165gr. on both Northeastern Whitetail and Woodland Caribou. The cartridge was severely overpowered for deer. Had front to rear penetration (Brisket shot) slicing through 8 vertebrae and pelvis (removing hip joint & top of femur) at 150 yards. The recovered projectile retained about 90 percent weight with nice mushrooming expansion. Others taken with this round at closer range had projectile pass completely through leaving massive wound channels in the chest. I have moved down to Sierra Game King 150's for Whitetail to avoid loss of meat.
Flank shots on Woodland Caribou bull at 225 yards broke ribs on both sides and continued through without recovering them. Nice holes and brought it down immediately, internal damage of heart and lungs was impressive. Got the pictures to back it up for the Doubting Thomases out there!
I load the Inter-bonds with W-W brass, CCI 200 primer, IMR 4320 (pet load 46.0gr). I set the OACL to my chamber, so your's will vary. Ohler Chrony @ 2870 avg. I'm using a Rem 700 DBL chambered in '06. Don't forget to trim brass to uniformed length (I use 2.490) and match prep them too.
Good Luck
 
Barnes fan here too. I shoot Barnes (TSX, TTSX, or LRX) out of all my hunting rifles except a .270 Win. and the varmint guns. Took a big mulie last year with a .25-06AI @ 488 yds. Quartering on and had a complete pass through from right shoulder and exited left hip. DRT, not a single step. All other deer and elk all went less than 40 yds.

.22-250=55gr. TTSX (for javelina hunts) @ 3680 fps
.250 AI=100gr. TSX (for my kids deer/antelope hunts) @ 3304 fps
.25-06 AI=100gr. TTSX @ 3598 fps
7MM STW=145gr. LRX @ 3466 fps
.300 RUM=175gr. LRX @ 3361 fps
 
I use Barnes TTSX or LRX bullets. I also don't like wounding game. Barnes has never failed to do the job.
 
Never cared much about what I toted for deer; SSTs or Amaxes are my norm for centerfire, and I've not had any problems on deer. I'm on the Barnes bus for elk though. I've seen cheaper cup/core bullets fail to do the job on the bigger critters. Not saying they don't do the job every season for many guys, but to me it's worth the comfort not worrying about jacket separation on elk. The price doesn't matter much to me as I don't shoot them regularly.
My bud n his dad just got back from a brown bear hunt. I recommended they use Barnes in their 300WM...every bullet on both bears passed through, including those which passed through the shoulder bones. Elk are big critters too and can go a long ways despite a fatal wound. It's nice to break bones and get 2 holes on the first shot and keep the tracking potential to a minimum.
 
BCP said:
I've seen cheap bullets blow up/fragment on pigs and elk and I have seen how devastating expensive bullets like the nosler partition are.

Get good bullets for your hunt you will be glad you did.
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Well, if were talking about elk now, I've seen what they do on elk so I'd load up 165 Interbonds, deer do not need such a premium bullet.
 
JGorski said:
Anything over 30cents a piece is too much for deer.
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ROFL -- you must live where you get multiple tags per season.
Out here in Oregon, it's 1 deer limit. The cost of the bullets is nothing compared to the cost of the license, tag, gas, beer and camping sundries.
I try to be frugal with the cost of my bullets, not because I'm a cheap MF'er, but because of Alimony induced poverty.
 
P7id10t said:
ROFL -- you must live where you get multiple tags per season.
Out here in Oregon, it's 1 deer limit. The cost of the bullets is nothing compared to the cost of the license, tag, gas, beer and camping sundries.
I try to be frugal with the cost of my bullets, not because I'm a cheap MF'er, but because of Alimony induced poverty.
Click to expand...

Well, I'm just a cheap MFer, LOL
 
$.30-.50 is cheap compared to tag soup. AZ is a tough draw for elk and the coveted mule deer tags north if the ditch. Worth every penny to only fling a single bullet at an animal when you get the opportunity. Heck, last year I spent a total of about $.30-.50 worth of bullets on my hunting trip to take my mulie. Money well spent.
 
Countless head of game of all sizes in N. America have fallen to the lowly Remington CorLokt. I've taken a bunch of whitetail, 2 black bear and 2 elk with the 180gr. Corlokt. Now, that being said, I didn't handload then and there weren't the plethora of choices that you have today. Currently, it's Nosler Partitions or Accubonds in the 30/06's depending on game and rifle....unless it's the 25/06 or 300 Rum with the Berger Hunting VLD's for the longer shots...clear as mud?
Any of the bullets mentioned in this thread will do the job if placed well, if placed not so well, the partitions/bonded bullets tend to punch through a bit more, however the bullets with thinner jackets dump the vast majority of their energy in the animal.
I've never had a whitetail take a STEP after hitting them with the berger vlds.....it's like reaching out and smacking them with the Hammer of THOR! However, I make the switch to partition/bonded when I go to sturdier/bigger critters
 
I've pretty much always used Remington Core-lokt, or federal power point blue box when I had my 30-06. Killed many many many deer. I switched to factory Hornady sst the last year I had it, killed 10 deer that year not a one of them went more then 100 yards, and I got everything I shot at.

Used amaxs and hpbt out of my 308 last year, two shots two dead deer.

Whitetail go down pretty easy.

In fact if someone is looking for some 30 can hunting bullets give me a PM. I believe that I have at least one partial box of sst, and two unused boxes of Barnes 110 ttsx. I sold the 30 caliber rifles. So some one might as well have them.
 
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