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Range Report Is Premium Brass in an AR-10 Necessary?: A Minor Experiment

rg1911

Gunny Sergeant
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Oct 24, 2012
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Laramie, Wyoming
My standard load for my AR-10 in 260 Rem has been using Lapua cases and Lapua 139-gr Scenars. Note that I automatically used Lapua cases because I use them in my bolt guns.

But I was becoming tired of losing expensive brass at PRS matches and began thinking about the necessity of premium brass. I didn't have any other 260 Rem brass, but I had large amounts of 7.62X51 brass from when I still was physically able to compete in NRA High Power matches.

I dug around and found a box of unused RA 64 cases and ran a test batch through my .260 Rem dies. That went well, so I got out my neck-turning equipment that happened to still be set to the correct cutting depth for my AR.

Because I didn't do all my homework when I had the rifle made, I had my 'smith (against his recommendation) chamber the Krieger barrel with a fairly tight neck, like I do with my bolt rifles. I quickly discovered the error of my ways because it meant I had to neck turn even my Lapua brass, and play with the recoil system.

I loaded just 10 cases for the first test, which showed that the brass played nicely with my AR. So I made a set of 5-shot test loads because I knew (after weighing cases) that the RA 64 was heavier than the Lapua, indicating a slightly smaller interior volume with a corresponding pressure increase. In addition to my normal Lapua Scenars, I also used Berger 140-gr VLD and Hornady 140-gr ELD-M bullets that had not performed well in previous tests.

To get to the punch line, I tested loads at 200 yards and found four that grouped into .5 MOA and one that went .75 MOA. The Lapua Scenar still edged out the Berger and the Hornady, but not by enough to make a difference with me behind the trigger. I also think the Berger performs better past the 200-yard test range. I'm consistently hitting the steel at 800 yards and now need to back off to the 1200-yard line.

All loads were tested with my Thunderbeast suppressor mounted. All successful loads chronographed within 15 fps of my original Lapua case-and-bullet load. All loads used H4350 powder and Federal Match primers.

So, my limited test indicates that bullets and properly prepared brass seem to play a more important role than whether or not the brass is premium. And I'm happier losing inexpensive cases.

Cheers,
Richard
 
I’ve never used my Lapua bolt gun brass in my AR10 .260. I’ve been using Hornady lately, 2-3 loadings with mid pressure loads and the pockets are still holding up. I also have a bunch of Lake City 7.62 brass that has been necked down and neck turned that shoots really well. These are using H4350 and 130 Eldm’s shot through a TB can.
 
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I'll run just about anything in my AR10 but I do use a Redding small base FL resize die to ensure cycling. I do not use mine for precision shooting. Just mayhem and destruction! Stay with mid-pressure loads as well.
 
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I've been using Hornady brass for several years amd it holds up well.
There is a guy in the PX selling brass and its always been top notch.
Here is the link to his ad if you're interested.
He also has LC brass as well.
I have had good luck using IMR 4064 because its always plentiful and proven.
I also use CCI #34 military primers

 
In my .260 Remington days I had to junk about 10 % of my brand new Remington cases due to misaligned flash holes...it was bad.

I've ran a lot of Lake City brass in my guns over recent years and have zero negative things to say about it. I don't know if I haven't got a rifle to shoot sub-MOA with LC brass. *This does not mean that I think machine gun brass is ideal for benchrest competition...but its perfectly fine for your 3/4 MOA rifle *
 
LC brass is excellent but I have to admit I am just as squeamish about loosing a piece of it as I am Lapua b/c of all the work I had to put into it to make it awesome.
 
I’ve never used my Lapua bolt gun brass in my AR10 .260. I’ve been using Hornady lately, 2-3 loadings with mid pressure loads and the pockets are still holding up. I also have a bunch of Lake City 7.62 brass that has been necked down and neck turned that shoots really well. These are using H4350 and 130 Eldm’s shot through a TB can.
I didn't mean to imply that I was using the same brass in both bolt rifles and the AR. I just meant that since I had been using Lapua in my custom bolt rifles, I automatically used Lapua brand brass in the custom-built AR-10.

It apparently was overkill.

Cheers,
Richard
 
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I'll run just about anything in my AR10 but I do use a Redding small base FL resize die to ensure cycling. I do not use mine for precision shooting. Just mayhem and destruction! Stay with mid-pressure loads as well.
I haven't had to use a small base die in the AR-10; I do have to run the cases through a body die after about two firings to nudge the shoulder back. I have to do that with my bolt rifles, too.

Concerning staying with mid-pressure loads, I'd love to, but it makes hitting the 1200-yard targets more difficult. My cases last about three firings before they have to be trashed.

Cheers,
Richard
 
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I’d never run Lapua through our large frame. It gets shot 100% suppressed and it’s tuned well but it spits the brass out looking like it’s been pulled out of an ash pit and run over on a gravel road lol. 1x Hornady brass is so cheap and easy to find for 6.5 I use that. A little over 1/2 moa, cheap brass, no toiling over prep, no worries when a piece gets chucked.... can’t complain.
 
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Id add to that a general statement that consistency is pretty much king with brass. Any decent brand is usually consistent enough to make 1/2 moa ammo. I use lapua in bolt guns just because it’s typically really consistent and it can be loaded a shit load of times so it’s worth the few extra bucks to me.
 
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Id add to that a general statement that consistency is pretty much king with brass. Any decent brand is usually consistent enough to make 1/2 moa ammo. I use lapua in bolt guns just because it’s typically really consistent and it can be loaded a shit load of times so it’s worth the few extra bucks to me.
Good points. I now will be on the lookout for less expensive brass. As I mentioned, I'll still have to turn the necks due to my insistence on a tighter chamber than the 'smith recommended. Lesson learned.

Cheers,
Richard
 
Good points. I now will be on the lookout for less expensive brass. As I mentioned, I'll still have to turn the necks due to my insistence on a tighter chamber than the 'smith recommended. Lesson learned.

Cheers,
Richard
I actually bought a bunch of turned brass not knowing it was turned. Any idea if turned brass in a standard chamber will give issues? Not seal properly maybe? It’s for the large frame 6.5.
 
I actually bought a bunch of turned brass not knowing it was turned. Any idea if turned brass in a standard chamber will give issues? Not seal properly maybe? It’s for the large frame 6.5.
My SWAG is that it will work, especially if it was turned just enough to knock off the high spots. If it was turned down a significant amount, it *might* not seal as well. If you know the diameter of your chamber's neck, load a dummy round and measure the diameter of the neck and see what the difference is between it and your rifle's neck. (That's the way I determined how much I had to turn the RA 64 brass.)

Hope this helps.

Richard
 
If it's turned too thin - like <10 thou - you *might* run into issues maintaining enough neck tension. Or you may see issues with the necks splitting 'early' (exactly when is anyone's guess) due to the metal being overworked expanding out to fit a SAAMI chamber neck, then getting squeezed back down. Heavy on the 'theoretical' aspect here. Other than that... should be fine.
 
Ive been running a Tactical Brass Recovery unit on all my ARs (223/6.5/308/300wm). It pays for itself in a hurry with all brass recovered and time saved that would be spent picking up brass and sorting. Ive tried other brands, but the TBR is a great design that has never caused a jam for me. You can just buy 1 and swap it between rifles.
 
Not one bit. In My 6.5 CM I use hornady 1x fired and do no prep only trim when it starts to flow. Here is my best group but I avg. half moa so far. Same goes for all my ar’s.
AC0EBB2C-BB95-4E30-8A7E-EF3F7270CECB.png
 
Very glad to read this thread; I’ve always had good luck with Lack City brass, my AR 10s and hunting rifles have eaten a mountain of it. I have several boxes of new and once fired lakcity match brass and have had very good accuracy in my new Begara HMR, being new hear and not a brass snob I’ve been reluctant to ask or wonder out loud how come there is almost no mention of LC brass not even the match flavor.
 
I think sometimes guys, including myself, get hung up on gear and brands. It’s human nature. I run lapua in most bolt rifles these days, but it’s for number of firings not consistency. Plus I can afford it now! When I was in college I would just weigh cases because I couldn’t afford lapua and honestly got same results. In fact, my first 260 Rem I used 243 Winchester nickel brass. That rifle is still one of the most accurate I have. I still use Winchester nickel for it. At that time I knew virtually nothing about precision loading. I did everything on a classic Lee “O” press and lee dies.