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Precision Rifle Gear Is there a limbsaver for the MDT ACC?

louu

The only NON methhead in NJ
Full Member
Minuteman
Aug 4, 2020
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I'm shooting a 308 in the ACC so it kicks a little. I shot a friend's rifle (not an acc) in 308 and he had a limbsaver pad on it and I could stay on target better.

Is there a part number for a limbsaver pad for the ACC?
 
I'm shooting a 308 in the ACC so it kicks a little. I shot a friend's rifle (not an acc) in 308 and he had a limbsaver pad on it and I could stay on target better.

Is there a part number for a limbsaver pad for the ACC?
Doubt it, but there are universal grind to fit pads.
 
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you could try just adding more weight my pop turned our rpr in 308 win through weights into the felt recoil of a 223 or something real close to it . there is no reason more weight would not work the same way on a mdt chassis I would get real weight not there weights 2 for 60.00 pop got a 14'' flat stock of steel 3.8 thick and added 14lbs 7 lbs per side .
more than 1/2 the price of mdt weights and more than double the weight just need m lock attachments and your good to go .
 
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I have the EGW Spacecomp brake on there, definitely made a huge difference and I have most of the weights on there I think I'm just shy of 24 pounds using a bathroom scale.

I'm gona look into the grind to fit pads I took a bunch of measurements just meow
 
I also have ASR brakes on my rifles except for on that has a non-threaded barrel. On that one, I have a clamp-on brake from Kahntrol Solutions. Works like a dream, butterfly kisses.
 
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I find the limbsavera too soft. Removed then from all my xlr chassis. Idk they just wiggle and squish, I feel I get steadier and more consistent shoulder pressure into the chassis with a thin stiff pacmeryer pad.
 
Grind to fit or:

 
How heavy is the gun?
Almost 24#
20210325_165135.jpg
 
Why not go 6 or 6.5? The advantages are many. Are you chasing those tac class trophies?
I didn't know anything about this game when I decided to give it a shot and thought 308 was a good caliber to get. I shot two matches, both at new Holland PA. The first was the beginners match and it was an ok amount of fun. The second was a regular match and I thought it was the dumbest thing I've ever seen/done, shooting off the weirdest things anyone could imagine. It's been a couple of years since then. A friend of mine is getting into it so we're going to a better match in Tremont PA in a couple of weeks.

Basically I'm not into this prs stuff at all mostly because that match was so terrible. I'm definitely not into it enough to spend another pile of money on a whole nother setup. I'm an A class USPSA guy and shoot that at least twice a month. But I figured I have a ton of money tied up in this rifle so I may as well use it once in a while.
 
Fundamentals and rifle set up.

Spotting shots at distance with a 24 lb .308 should be pretty easy.

Also, try a 419 hellfire or one of your other brakes if self timing.
That egw appears to be pretty old in design. Newer stuff does work better IMO.


Im small in build, a giant pussy, and a sucky shooter and can spot hits with a rifle weighing nearly 1/2 that.
 
It could be the way you have the rifle stock set up that's not allowing you to spot your shots. I can spot my shots with my PSS at around 12 lbs. No brake and it's thin buttpad is 32 years old.
 
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I'm going to make a few suggestions, shorten your LOP a bit to where you're totally square behind the rifle with shoulders, hips and body to take the recoil straight line with body. Run the butt pad in against your clavicle/neck junction, the closer to center your body the better. You may need drop your cheek piece as usually this requires more jaw weld than cheek. You don't want your butt pad in the shoulder pocket, this usually causes recoil to send sight picture up and left on right hand shooters. Where is your balance point on that rifle? Appears to be a fluted Tikka factory barrel even with their heavier contour, that's a light action/barrel. To get that up to 24# if you're slightly rear heavy that will cause a lot of muzzle rise in shots too. Put some body into the gun forward, but also apply pressure from grip back to shoulder. Squeeze. These things should help. I mean I can spot shots from a 12# Tikka ctr 65cm thats using a mbm lil bastard, I'd think a 24# 308 wouldn't be tough.
 
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I'm going to make a few suggestions, shorten your LOP a bit to where you're totally square behind the rifle with shoulders, hips and body to take the recoil straight line with body. Run the butt pad in against your clavicle/neck junction, the closer to center your body the better. You may need drop your cheek piece as usually this requires more jaw weld than cheek. You don't want your butt pad in the shoulder pocket, this usually causes recoil to send sight picture up and left on right hand shooters. Where is your balance point on that rifle? Appears to be a fluted Tikka factory barrel even with their heavier contour, that's a light action/barrel. To get that up to 24# if you're slightly rear heavy that will cause a lot of muzzle rise in shots too. Put some body into the gun forward, but also apply pressure from grip back to shoulder. Squeeze. These things should help. I mean I can spot shots from a 12# Tikka ctr 65cm thats using a mbm lil bastard, I'd think a 24# 308 wouldn't be tough.
Dude it's like you know everything about me. Yes, exactly, it kicks up and left. I can't remember where the balance is I rarely touch this gun but it probably is rear heavy. I also don't pull the grip back like you said, I just kinda let it sit there and free recoil.