I'm using the Iwata for cerakote and have a question about filtering the paint. I'm using the A310 filter with medium poly mesh(226 microns)from Napa when filling the gravity cup. Is there a finer mesh filter available?
Gunsmithing Iwata spray gun question
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Re: Iwata spray gun question
but are they coming thru the gun or is it contamination in the environment getting on the work? maybe after thinning its not getting mixed enough to dissolve the clump? or do you thin? i cant imagine particles making it thru the gun, im sure it could happen, but its almost sounding like thick globs getting sucked thru and then drying in a clump. thats why i wondered if thinning and mixing was an issue
does napa offer anything finer or is that as far as they go? how about your air? is it filtered?
but are they coming thru the gun or is it contamination in the environment getting on the work? maybe after thinning its not getting mixed enough to dissolve the clump? or do you thin? i cant imagine particles making it thru the gun, im sure it could happen, but its almost sounding like thick globs getting sucked thru and then drying in a clump. thats why i wondered if thinning and mixing was an issue
does napa offer anything finer or is that as far as they go? how about your air? is it filtered?
Re: Iwata spray gun question
Cerakote is a different animal. If you are accustom to spraying Duracoat or some other product there will be a learning curve associated with Cerakote.
You should not need to thin or filter Cerakote.
Cerakote needs to be well mixed to suspend the pigment.
If the gun tip is not correct or the air pressure and the paint flow are not correct you are going to have problems, most of which will be dry spray.
If random clumps are pushing through the gun the product is not mixed well enough.
Cerakote is a different animal. If you are accustom to spraying Duracoat or some other product there will be a learning curve associated with Cerakote.
You should not need to thin or filter Cerakote.
Cerakote needs to be well mixed to suspend the pigment.
If the gun tip is not correct or the air pressure and the paint flow are not correct you are going to have problems, most of which will be dry spray.
If random clumps are pushing through the gun the product is not mixed well enough.
Re: Iwata spray gun question
I'm not getting dry spray, no clumps and the paint is well shaken (by hand). The Iwata coats and covers great. No problem there.
It looks like sand sized specs and maybe one on each part coated and seems to be in the paint, not landing on the part after. Not even that visible. Somehow, my gun is getting contaminated. I hope it's not dry cerakote in the gun coming out with fresh paint.
My cheap $35 hvlp with the internal filter didn't seem to have this issue.
I'm not getting dry spray, no clumps and the paint is well shaken (by hand). The Iwata coats and covers great. No problem there.
It looks like sand sized specs and maybe one on each part coated and seems to be in the paint, not landing on the part after. Not even that visible. Somehow, my gun is getting contaminated. I hope it's not dry cerakote in the gun coming out with fresh paint.
My cheap $35 hvlp with the internal filter didn't seem to have this issue.
Re: Iwata spray gun question
How are you cleaning the parts to be sprayed. I've had that pop up from time to time, and it was blasting media that stuck to the surface after cleaning. The other possiblity can be air bubles that will set up appearing as grit, and near as I could find was caused by running to high of preasure.
How are you cleaning the parts to be sprayed. I've had that pop up from time to time, and it was blasting media that stuck to the surface after cleaning. The other possiblity can be air bubles that will set up appearing as grit, and near as I could find was caused by running to high of preasure.
Re: Iwata spray gun question
When I bought the Iwata from NIC, I talked to one of their sprayers. He told me that he doesn't clean with alcohol after blasting w/ AO, just air at high pressure so I stopped cleaning with alcohol. I'll bet that's it.
My procedure was to blast with AO, then high pressure air, then clean with white rag wet with 91% alcohol, then whisk with clean dry white rag, finish with high pressure air. Seems the issue started after eliminating a wet wipe with alcohol.
Rhys, doesn't seem like an air bubble, but a random spec of grit. I need to go back to alcohol wipe and see if that cures it.
When I bought the Iwata from NIC, I talked to one of their sprayers. He told me that he doesn't clean with alcohol after blasting w/ AO, just air at high pressure so I stopped cleaning with alcohol. I'll bet that's it.
My procedure was to blast with AO, then high pressure air, then clean with white rag wet with 91% alcohol, then whisk with clean dry white rag, finish with high pressure air. Seems the issue started after eliminating a wet wipe with alcohol.
Rhys, doesn't seem like an air bubble, but a random spec of grit. I need to go back to alcohol wipe and see if that cures it.
Re: Iwata spray gun question
Just to be clear, I'm not having any problems adjusting the gun. I'm getting a great finish. I'm hoping that it's specs of blast media, and by going back to wiping with alcohol as part of my cleaning prep, it will stop happening.
Just to be clear, I'm not having any problems adjusting the gun. I'm getting a great finish. I'm hoping that it's specs of blast media, and by going back to wiping with alcohol as part of my cleaning prep, it will stop happening.
Re: Iwata spray gun question
After the procedure your describing I'd say it's just that your not getting all the AO off the metal. I flush all the parts with brake cleaner or dunk in alcohol prior to spraying. I will be setting up a boiling water tank to do the same thing in the future.
After the procedure your describing I'd say it's just that your not getting all the AO off the metal. I flush all the parts with brake cleaner or dunk in alcohol prior to spraying. I will be setting up a boiling water tank to do the same thing in the future.
Re: Iwata spray gun question
wipe it down with a tack rag before spraying that will pick up any dust or lint.
wipe it down with a tack rag before spraying that will pick up any dust or lint.
Re: Iwata spray gun question
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rhys</div><div class="ubbcode-body">After the procedure your describing I'd say it's just that your not getting all the AO off the metal. I flush all the parts with brake cleaner or dunk in alcohol prior to spraying. I will be setting up a boiling water tank to do the same thing in the future.</div></div>
I eliminated the alcohol from my prep as soon as I started using the Iwata based on a discussion with another cerakote applicator. It's the only change to my procedure, besides the gun since the problem started. I was focusing on the gun as the culprit because it was new and missed the obvious.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Rhys</div><div class="ubbcode-body">After the procedure your describing I'd say it's just that your not getting all the AO off the metal. I flush all the parts with brake cleaner or dunk in alcohol prior to spraying. I will be setting up a boiling water tank to do the same thing in the future.</div></div>
I eliminated the alcohol from my prep as soon as I started using the Iwata based on a discussion with another cerakote applicator. It's the only change to my procedure, besides the gun since the problem started. I was focusing on the gun as the culprit because it was new and missed the obvious.
Re: Iwata spray gun question
Honestly, I think that it's an issue of contamination. Not dry spray, clumps or bubbles and it's very random. And blast media as the culprit. I've seen and experienced dry spray from too much pressure and too far away from part and this not the case here.
The Iwata does not have an internal filter as my old cheapo gun had so I'm filtering with a Napa A310 cup filter as I fill the gun. The mesh appears to be much finer in the old internal filters which caused me to ask the question in my first post.
When I purchased the Iwata, I talked to a cerakote sprayer at NIC and he said he blasts with AO and uses only high pressure air to clean. At that point, I stopped using alcohol in my clean prep. I feel that this was a mistake and the reason for the random specs of sand. I'll go back to my old clean procedure today and see.
Honestly, I think that it's an issue of contamination. Not dry spray, clumps or bubbles and it's very random. And blast media as the culprit. I've seen and experienced dry spray from too much pressure and too far away from part and this not the case here.
The Iwata does not have an internal filter as my old cheapo gun had so I'm filtering with a Napa A310 cup filter as I fill the gun. The mesh appears to be much finer in the old internal filters which caused me to ask the question in my first post.
When I purchased the Iwata, I talked to a cerakote sprayer at NIC and he said he blasts with AO and uses only high pressure air to clean. At that point, I stopped using alcohol in my clean prep. I feel that this was a mistake and the reason for the random specs of sand. I'll go back to my old clean procedure today and see.
Re: Iwata spray gun question
Get yourself some of these... http://www.tcpglobal.com/hokpaint/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=GER+020001B , tack cloth are basically tacky gauze cloth that will pick up any dust or lint without leaving residue on the surface. also if you make sure you clean the gun well the strainer should be fine.
Get yourself some of these... http://www.tcpglobal.com/hokpaint/itemdetail.aspx?itemno=GER+020001B , tack cloth are basically tacky gauze cloth that will pick up any dust or lint without leaving residue on the surface. also if you make sure you clean the gun well the strainer should be fine.
Re: Iwata spray gun question
also it may have been just the act of wiping it down, not so much the alcohol that you used to do it. using the tack cloths may eliminate the need to use the alcohol while still cleaning off the grit.
also it may have been just the act of wiping it down, not so much the alcohol that you used to do it. using the tack cloths may eliminate the need to use the alcohol while still cleaning off the grit.
Re: Iwata spray gun question
Why not just do it the way you've been doing it successfully. If you had no problems when you cleaned them with alcohol, why not start using it again?
Palmik, it's not the gun settings or technique. It's either dry paint debris left in the gun, or a piece of stuck sand/cloth/whatever. I think it's just a speck left on there from blasting/cleaning.
There's very few specks, or only one, and it's so small it's almost acceptable.
He's just chasing perfection. Our cerakote looks pretty good.
Keith
Why not just do it the way you've been doing it successfully. If you had no problems when you cleaned them with alcohol, why not start using it again?
Palmik, it's not the gun settings or technique. It's either dry paint debris left in the gun, or a piece of stuck sand/cloth/whatever. I think it's just a speck left on there from blasting/cleaning.
There's very few specks, or only one, and it's so small it's almost acceptable.
He's just chasing perfection. Our cerakote looks pretty good.
Keith
Re: Iwata spray gun question
try this also if the prob keeps up take a clean white rag spray parts over a clean white rag with carb cleaner and look on the shirt rag small dark specks this is how I check for bead blast res it also helps to use a very clean paint booth to spray in with fan and please post what worked for you
try this also if the prob keeps up take a clean white rag spray parts over a clean white rag with carb cleaner and look on the shirt rag small dark specks this is how I check for bead blast res it also helps to use a very clean paint booth to spray in with fan and please post what worked for you
Re: Iwata spray gun question
use alcohol or ppg dx32, wipe with a soaked rag and immediately with a clean rag. then tack rag over the finished job and keep it in a clean area until you spray. hit the trigger for air only on the gun and blow off the stock that way right before you spray. be sure to use filtered air. good luck. i paint lots of automotive paints that way and never have issues.
use alcohol or ppg dx32, wipe with a soaked rag and immediately with a clean rag. then tack rag over the finished job and keep it in a clean area until you spray. hit the trigger for air only on the gun and blow off the stock that way right before you spray. be sure to use filtered air. good luck. i paint lots of automotive paints that way and never have issues.
Re: Iwata spray gun question
If you sprayed some kind of clear coat with a hardner, it may be in the gun and slowly breaking loose. So your contamination could be coming from the gun itself. So many variables to correct. Take the gun apart and make sure to give it a good cleaning(checking all areas of paint flow), and make sure the paint is mixed throughly and strained properly. Next work area should be clean and drafted with filtered air to remove contaminants (preferably dowm draft). Could be in the air supply to the gun. Buy one of the cheap filters that attach directly to the gun. Hopefully something here helps.
Huntall
If you sprayed some kind of clear coat with a hardner, it may be in the gun and slowly breaking loose. So your contamination could be coming from the gun itself. So many variables to correct. Take the gun apart and make sure to give it a good cleaning(checking all areas of paint flow), and make sure the paint is mixed throughly and strained properly. Next work area should be clean and drafted with filtered air to remove contaminants (preferably dowm draft). Could be in the air supply to the gun. Buy one of the cheap filters that attach directly to the gun. Hopefully something here helps.
Huntall
Re: Iwata spray gun question
A high pressure/high volume air blower is the best way to clear all the media out
of your parts. Then do your cleaning, then a basecoat tack cloth. Your problem
definitely sounds like crud blowing out of your work and mixing with the paint.
You do completely strip all your tape and plugs off after blasting, clean and re-tape don't you? You will always be at risk of contamination if you don't. Also use a light air blower as you tack.
A high pressure/high volume air blower is the best way to clear all the media out
of your parts. Then do your cleaning, then a basecoat tack cloth. Your problem
definitely sounds like crud blowing out of your work and mixing with the paint.
You do completely strip all your tape and plugs off after blasting, clean and re-tape don't you? You will always be at risk of contamination if you don't. Also use a light air blower as you tack.
Re: Iwata spray gun question
Having a designated Cerakote room would help us too.
We had to set up a paint booth in the corner of our already too small shop. So I finish machining and he goes right to work coating. Still dust in the air sometimes from me moving around in there.
When we move home after gunsmithing school, we will have a designated Cerakote shop and machine shop. Both will be kept clean enough to eat off the machines and floor.
One more year up north, then we go back
Having a designated Cerakote room would help us too.
We had to set up a paint booth in the corner of our already too small shop. So I finish machining and he goes right to work coating. Still dust in the air sometimes from me moving around in there.
When we move home after gunsmithing school, we will have a designated Cerakote shop and machine shop. Both will be kept clean enough to eat off the machines and floor.
One more year up north, then we go back
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