JAE-700 bolt binding

HomeSlice

Sergeant
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Thanks in advance for looking.

I picked up a used JAE-700 chassis and I'm trying to put in my atlas tactical. Whenever I even moderately tighten the action screws the bolt binds up. The rear bolt isn't protruding, and based on the number of turns I can get the front bolt to turn I doubt it is either. There are no marks on the bolt from contacting the screw.

The instruction sheet and this thread say there are some shims that came with the stock to prevent this from happening. Mine doesn't have any, and JAE is kaput. MDT said they don't have any spare parts.

Does anybody have any pictures and/or measurements for these shims? And where do they go, exactly? I'm sure it's something I can make if I can get a decent starting point.

Thanks,
-Slice
 

Supersubes

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    At what point does it bind? Fore and aft movement, or closing the bolt? If closing, its the front screw.
     
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    celltech

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    Don't discount the front screw not hitting the bolt head. Back it out and see if it frees up...
     

    charger23

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    Get some spares and grind them down a few threads and see if that frees it up. Not sure how that could be anything except too long a screw.
     

    HomeSlice

    Sergeant
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    Jul 22, 2009
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    At what point does it bind? Fore and aft movement, or closing the bolt? If closing, its the front screw.
    It's both, depending on how tight I crank it down.


    Don't discount the front screw not hitting the bolt head. Back it out and see if it frees up...
    If I back it out, it runs fine. BUT, if I loosen the back screw and really crank down the front, it also works fine. I'll see if I can get a finger in to confirm that's not it.

    Get some spares and grind them down a few threads and see if that frees it up. Not sure how that could be anything except too long a screw.

    I'll take it apart and see what they are. They're captive screws, and they feel like some kind of strange thing.

    I know the actions are pretty strong, but it feels like I'm bowing it when I crank the screws down. Is that retarded?
     

    Supersubes

    Heathen
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  • Sep 6, 2006
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    It's both, depending on how tight I crank it down.



    If I back it out, it runs fine. BUT, if I loosen the back screw and really crank down the front, it also works fine. I'll see if I can get a finger in to confirm that's not it.



    I'll take it apart and see what they are. They're captive screws, and they feel like some kind of strange thing.

    I know the actions are pretty strong, but it feels like I'm bowing it when I crank the screws down. Is that retarded?
    Ive never seen the guts of a the JAE, but ensure the recoil lug isn't bottoming out or binding in its pocket.
     
    Last edited:

    AB70

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    I just put my Tikka in a JAE chassis. I can measure those shims tomorrow if you like.
     

    charger23

    Captain Hinessight
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    It's both, depending on how tight I crank it down.



    If I back it out, it runs fine. BUT, if I loosen the back screw and really crank down the front, it also works fine. I'll see if I can get a finger in to confirm that's not it.



    I'll take it apart and see what they are. They're captive screws, and they feel like some kind of strange thing.

    I know the actions are pretty strong, but it feels like I'm bowing it when I crank the screws down. Is that retarded?
    I have two JAE chassis and I forgot they were captive. My bad. I don’t remember having to shim either one.
     

    Baron23

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    Please. If you could also post a picture of them and where they go, that'd be outstanding.

    Thanks!
    Well, here are the set of shims for a JAE-700 chassis.

    Take the measurements with a bit of a grain of salt as this is a really cheap caliper and....well, I didn't take that much time with taking them! haha

    As for where they go...beats the shit out of me but since the action screws are captive, they cannot go under the action screw allen head. They have to go on the other end, as far as I can tell, which means between the action and the chassis....no????

    5.jpg
    1.jpg
    4.jpg
    3.jpg
     

    HomeSlice

    Sergeant
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    Jul 22, 2009
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    Well, here are the set of shims for a JAE-700 chassis.

    Take the measurements with a bit of a grain of salt as this is a really cheap caliper and....well, I didn't take that much time with taking them! haha

    As for where they go...beats the shit out of me but since the action screws are captive, they cannot go under the action screw allen head. They have to go on the other end, as far as I can tell, which means between the action and the chassis....no????

    View attachment 7564604
    View attachment 7564606
    View attachment 7564608
    View attachment 7564609

    That's perfect, thanks!

    I guess those go on the bottom of the action, between the action and the stock. That's what I'm going to try anyway.

    ETA: It looks like a 1/4" stainless flat washer would be really close.
     

    Baron23

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    I guess those go on the bottom of the action, between the action and the stock. That's what I'm going to try anyway.
    Yeah....I can't see where else they would go but doesn't that hose up the contact between the action and the chassis and limit it to just contact with area of these small washers?

    I have never really looked into it, but can the JAE be diassembled to the point that you can get at the action screws? It would seem to make much more sense to have these shims under the allen head end.

    I'd ask a gunsmith who has built JAE's where they go. I know Altus has as well as Steve Rowe of Apache Machine who I bought a chassis from. And of course many others.

    If you definitively figure out where they go, please come back and post it.

    Cheers
     

    Dthomas3523

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    Well, here are the set of shims for a JAE-700 chassis.

    Take the measurements with a bit of a grain of salt as this is a really cheap caliper and....well, I didn't take that much time with taking them! haha

    As for where they go...beats the shit out of me but since the action screws are captive, they cannot go under the action screw allen head. They have to go on the other end, as far as I can tell, which means between the action and the chassis....no????

    View attachment 7564604
    View attachment 7564606
    View attachment 7564608
    View attachment 7564609

    If the shims are needed, I’d probably take it apart and put them on the bolts so they are held captive as well.
     
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    Supersubes

    Heathen
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  • Sep 6, 2006
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    That's perfect, thanks!

    I guess those go on the bottom of the action, between the action and the stock. That's what I'm going to try anyway.

    ETA: It looks like a 1/4" stainless flat washer would be really close.
    I dont have instructions on your chassis, but pretty sure they should go under the screw heads(when needed). Between the action and chassis would float the action and minimize contact, which is contrary to every bedding system Ive ever looked at.
     

    HomeSlice

    Sergeant
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    Jul 22, 2009
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    Yeah....I can't see where else they would go but doesn't that hose up the contact between the action and the chassis and limit it to just contact with area of these small washers?

    I have never really looked into it, but can the JAE be diassembled to the point that you can get at the action screws? It would seem to make much more sense to have these shims under the allen head end.

    I'd ask a gunsmith who has built JAE's where they go. I know Altus has as well as Steve Rowe of Apache Machine who I bought a chassis from. And of course many others.

    If you definitively figure out where they go, please come back and post it.

    Cheers

    I was hoping somebody here had done it before I bother a professional especially one that I haven't used before. I'll get it sorted, and I'll be sure to let y'all know. I am worried about reducing the contact surface. I don't want to have to bed it.


    If the shims are needed, I’d probably take it apart and put them on the bolts so they are held captive as well.
    I'll give that a try. Hopefully it'll not be too big of a pain in the ass to free the captive screws.

    I dont have instructions on your chassis, but pretty sure they should go under the screw heads(when needed). Between the action and chassis would float the action and minimize contact, which is contrary to every bedding system Ive ever looked at.

    Here's all the instructions say:
    SHIM ADJUSTMENT:
    1. Add shims (provided) only if action screws impede bolt travel.
    2. To access rear screw, remove trigger guard.
    3. To access front screw, remove front magazine collet by removing button head retaining screw.

    I'm going to try to tinker with it tonight.
     

    Baron23

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    I was hoping somebody here had done it before I bother a professional especially one that I haven't used before. I'll get it sorted, and I'll be sure to let y'all know. I am worried about reducing the contact surface. I don't want to have to bed it.



    I'll give that a try. Hopefully it'll not be too big of a pain in the ass to free the captive screws.



    Here's all the instructions say:


    I'm going to try to tinker with it tonight.
    Well, there it is...instructions on how to get to the action screws and, hopefully, put the shims on the Allen head end of the action screw.

    Putting them between the action and the chassis just didn't make any sense but I also don't have any documentation with my J Allens and hadn't taken one apart to see how to get to the action screws.

    where did you find those directions, may I ask?
     

    HomeSlice

    Sergeant
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    Jul 22, 2009
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    The guy I bought it from scanned it and sent me a copy earlier this afternoon. I'm happy to forward it to you if you'll PM me your email address.
     

    Supersubes

    Heathen
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  • Sep 6, 2006
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    Have you confirmed there’s no trigger interference? Got any tracing paper you can lay in the bedding area to check for contact patches at a few torque settings(light and full torque). I use zig zags for this very thing. Seems odd a custom action and a high end chassis would do this.
    The guy I bought it from scanned it and sent me a copy earlier this afternoon. I'm happy to forward it to you if you'll PM me your email address.
     

    HomeSlice

    Sergeant
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    Jul 22, 2009
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    Have you confirmed there’s no trigger interference? Got any tracing paper you can lay in the bedding area to check for contact patches at a few torque settings(light and full torque). I use zig zags for this very thing. Seems odd a custom action and a high end chassis would do this.

    this is it. I took the trigger and hanger off, and the screws went in a bit further. Bolt functioned flawlessly without the hanger installed. Looks like it’s hanging up in the rear, probably on the screw head.

    I’m going to see if I can find a flat head machine screw that’ll work.

    thanks for the idea to look at this.