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Jammed AR 15

Cutthroatdave

Private
Minuteman
Jun 5, 2020
26
19
I'm fairly new to semi auto rifles, but have been shooting bolt rifles for 30 years. I recently built an AR 15, and have been really happy with it. I've put around 400 rounds through it,half of them reloads, and have been very pleased to see a significant difference in accuracy between my reloads and factory ammo. While out shooting today I had a reload that didn't fire when I pulled the trigger. I removed the magazine but can't pull back on the charging handle to eject the live round. I've done some looking online for a way to get the bolt open and eject the round but It doesn't seem that anything I've read really describes my problem. the closest solution I've read about is to mortar the rifle. I'm hesitant to do this for a few reasons the first being that I don't have a safe place to do this in case the round does fire. I might be able to get away with this outside of work if I get there early enough. I haven't tried disassembling the rifle at home yet for the same safety reasons. Any body here with relevant experience with this type of situation?
Note, I'm not looking for a reason that this happened yet, I need to get the rifle un-jammed first then I can figure out why.
 
If you can remove the takedown pin you can try a thin flat screwdriver -underneath- at the front edge of the BCG to move it back.
If you have a good scope on the AR Mortaring will test it good :)
The live reload could be stuck for a few different reasons.
Some of which you might not want it to fire.
Did you inspect previous round for a missing neck?
 
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If you can remove the takedown pin you can try a thin flat screwdriver -underneath- at the front edge of the BCG to move it back.
If you have a good scope on the AR Mortaring will test it good :)
The live reload could be stuck for a few different reasons.
Some of which you might not want it to fire.
Did you inspect previous round for a missing neck?
This was the first round in a new magazine, The previous round wasn't missing a neck, I pick all of my brass when with each new magazine it's easier to account for all of it that way. I'll have to go in to work early tomorrow to work on it on a good bench when fewer people are there and the ones that are there won't care about a rifle in the shop.
 
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I had this happen, mortaring didn't work ... at least as hard as I was willing to pile-drive it. I disassembled the butt stock and buffer tube, and removed the jam from the back. Worked for me ... YMMV.
 
I had this happen, mortaring didn't work ... at least as hard as I was willing to pile-drive it. I disassembled the butt stock and buffer tube, and removed the jam from the back. Worked for me ... YMMV.

How did you remove the bolt by hand if you couldn't do it with the mortar technique?
 
FTE clearing drills, in preparation for a failure during a fire fight is a good thing to know.
You are probably going to be graded on how fast you clear a jam, real or fake jam.
It takes two hands to do this correctly. One to bounce the rifle on the concrete floor and the other to apply pressure to the charging handle. Practice it so it will be second nature when you need it.
Maybe it was only that round, and won't happen to the next one chambered.
But, when shooting in a more relaxed setting, maybe not bang on the rifle.
Especially if you followed the Buy Once, Cry Once rule :)

If the BCG is forward it's easy to unpin and have good access to move the BCG back.
Just remember that there is a live round in there.

Ryan, The heel of the rifle stock is directly in line with the BCG and is likely stronger than the Toe.

IF at a public range or indoor range positional discipline is important. Pointing a loaded weapon at the ceiling and banging on it may cause you to find another range (if the RO sees you). It probably won't go off, many places just don't like it.

Normally with factory brass ammo, a jam can be easily cleared with a light/moderate tap on the floor or shooting bench and pressure on the charging handle. If you had been shooting steel case then switched to your brass cased reloads, then it could be stuck really good. Let us know what you find out with the stuck case.
 

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Don’t forget to close the stock completely. If it is really jammed When you try to mortar it Remove the mag and pre prop the latch and slide some folded paper between the hook and receiver. Left hand below the FSB and right palm cupping the pic rail and at the same time apply pressure with the base of your hand on the charging handle. the heal of the butstock should be hitting the floor.
 
Learn to do that.
I sometimes shoot an AR prone and get some stickage (no gas, side pull).
I keep a small screw driver in my ammo box to stick into the tiny gap at the front of the BCG, start the BCG back and break the stucks.
Don't even have to break position.
Operator in the video might want to check for rocks in his muzzle though.
 
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Aside from mortar you can try tapping backwards on the charging handle with a mallet or deadblow although it may damage the handle if its stuck good.
 
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Put a large flat blade screwdriver up the mag well. Put the tip between the bcg and the barrel extension. Twist. That should pop it open, and is one of the few places where you’re levering on steel and not aluminum.

Looking at an upper last night and aside from mortaring or tapping the charging handle this is probably best option. A large flat head should be able to pry it back.

@Cutthroatdave Weren't you a little concerned with transporting a jammed hang fire in a car?
 
Get yourself one of these.

 
Look down the barrel and jam a steel rod down there. Hard.
I've actually done something similar. Well I didn't shove it down hard I did have a Old Rod that I was able to run down the barrel, fish for tip, smack rod... pinch the rod between thumb and index finger at the muzzle is to control the movement.

Tried the mortar method... It's worked.

Modified mortar method... May have to remove the scope should it be equipped, heel of boot on charging handle Raymond to the ground... I didn't do it this way, buddy of mine that worked with did...

Another used...
Place the action in a vise, using a Delrin or brass Rod... Hit it with a hammer.
 
I had a weak load in my .44 mag many years ago, bullet jumped to the forcing cone but never cleared the case. Used a steel cleaning rod held with a pair of vice grips down the bore and had to tap the bullet back into the case. Pucker factor was extremely high.
 
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That seems like the safest/best practice solution. But mortaring is operator as fuck, especially when you inadvertently send a m855 airborne.

I have never in my life seen a ND/round go off from a properly executed mortar.

Now, if you don't know what you're doing and mortar it halfassed and then let the charging handle go halfway through, I could maybe see a slamfire occuring. But if I remember right, the firing pin can't protrude outside of the boltface until the lugs were rotated in the locked position, so thats even a reach.

Hell, I think you'd have a higher chance of a round going off from a primer strike via the tip of the second round from a doublefeed happening (which is also somewhere around 0%).

Mortaring a FTE/stuck case is actually the literal taught method of clearing this type of malfunction in a semi auto.

@Cutthroatdave since you seem a bit new to this, here's how you go about fixing malfunctions:

- To negate almost all malfunctions, learn to really seat the magazine firmly, let the charging handle go forward on its own and give the forward assist a quick smack after the bolt is forward. I do this everytime I load a mag to where its automatic.

- If you pull the trigger and nothing happens, don't stand around for 5 minutes trying to investigate. Assuming you have a loaded magazine in the gun, and your bolt is forward, all you need to do is TAP the bottom of the magazine firmly (upwards toward the gun), RACK the charging handle back (let it go, dont ride it forward) and pull the trigger to make the gun go BANG. This will fix 90% of your failures one way or another and you won't need to stand there and try and diagnose the problem; just fucking fix it.

- If you went to TRB and the charging handle is stuck to where you cannot pull it back, mortar the rifle as explained above as this is most likely a FTE/stuck case. Mortar the rifle and you should observe a round flying out. You can also TRB it again afterwards (but dont need to) just to make 1000% sure there's nothing else wrong in the system and/or that you didn't just induce another failure in the process.

- If you went to TRB and and charging handle is halfway stuck going backwards and/or you cant push it all the way forwards, its likely a bolt override failure where a round has wedged itself above the bolt at an angle. The fix here is to pull the charging handle as far back as it'll let you and literally karate chop the charging handle forward. Again, you can (but dont need to) TRB again after the stuck round is gone just incase.

- If you did the TRB action and the bolt comes back but doesn't go all the way forward (and it isn't a bolt override) check for a double feed via the ejection port. It'll be pretty obvious if it is. A TRB will fix it sometimes, but in the cases where it doesn't and/or makes it worse, you need to drop the magazine into your weak hand (hold onto it if you can) and lock the bolt to the rear. The rounds SHOULD fall out with a firm shake, or if lodged in, remove them with your strong side fingers via a brushing motion (dont try to grab them, just knock them out and get back to work). Reinsert the magazine and proceed just like you're loading a new mag.

This is how you fix the standard, non catastrophic/non armory level malfunctions on an AR.

We learned to always keep the gun on the shoulder and when the gun stopped shooting to simply rotate it slightly inward to where you could look down and see if the bolt was locked back. If so, this was an 'all clear' that the gun was empty and didn't stop firing due to a malfunction. Otherwise, you'd see an issue to where either the bolt was forward (failure to feed), had a stovepipe, bolt override, double feed or the bolt wasn't seated and/or stuck in a position other than to the rear. Then you'd proceed with either a reload, or TRB and then a secondary failure procedure as explained above. When practiced, I can do this as fast/faster than people who just drop a mag (sometimes with ammo in it) and reload because the gun stopped shooting to only find the malfunction when they went to try and shoot again with a new loaded mag.

The two failures that can occur ontop of these which can keep your gun down that are most common and can be fixed quickly in the field are a broken firing pin (common) and a seperated case. Learn how to remove and quickly disassemble your bolt and have 2 spare firing pins on you (I have mine with small essential spare items in a bag inside of my carrier). Secondly, have a broken case extractor for the correct caliber in that bag as well as if the rear of the case sheers off, you simply put the removal tool on the bolt face and it'll pull the case out.
 
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The two failures that can occur ontop of these which can keep your gun down that are most common and can be fixed quickly in the field are a broken firing pin (common) and a seperated case. Learn how to remove and quickly disassemble your bolt and have 2 spare firing pins on you (I have mine with small essential spare items in a bag inside of my carrier). Secondly, have a broken case extractor for the correct caliber in that bag as well as if the rear of the case sheers off, you simply put the removal tool on the bolt face and it'll pull the case out.
Thats good info, honestly never thought about what I would do if my firing pin shit the bed. Just ordered backup firing pins for my gas guns. The only time I had a case head separation, I was able to extract the case with a bronze bore brush. Maybe the extractor tool isn’t a bad idea to have with the gun either.
 
Thats good info, honestly never thought about what I would do if my firing pin shit the bed. Just ordered backup firing pins for my gas guns. The only time I had a case head separation, I was able to extract the case with a bronze bore brush. Maybe the extractor tool isn’t a bad idea to have with the gun either.

I've had 2 'oh shit' problems in the middle of a fight.

- Aimpoint battery died (what are the odds of that!) and just flipped the BUIS up

- Firing pin broke while I was the cover man on a flank shift to contact. I did the RTB drill 3 or 4 times after screaming stoppage and even put in a different mag. Couldn't for the life of me figure out what was wrong as I could hear the click when pulling the trigger and had 1 round go off once and then a bunch more clicks. Wasn't until I somehow thought to eject yet another round and look at it to see it didn't have a primer strike.

Had my sidearm out literally 1 handed shooting at shit probably 200 yards away lol

Was probably only a few minutes and 1-2 minutes working on the bolt, but seemed like the carbine was down for 3 weeks.
 
I've had 2 'oh shit' problems in the middle of a fight.

- Aimpoint battery died (what are the odds of that!) and just flipped the BUIS up

- Firing pin broke while I was the cover man on a flank shift to contact. I did the RTB drill 3 or 4 times after screaming stoppage and even put in a different mag. Couldn't for the life of me figure out what was wrong as I could hear the click when pulling the trigger and had 1 round go off once and then a bunch more clicks. Wasn't until I somehow thought to eject yet another round and look at it to see it didn't have a primer strike.

Had my sidearm out literally 1 handed shooting at shit probably 200 yards away lol

Was probably only a few minutes and 1-2 minutes working on the bolt, but seemed like the carbine was down for 3 weeks.

Was it an HK? I bet it was one of those damned Walmart HK guns. Would never happen with a PSA.

#JustAsGood
 
Actually have spare batteries with my aimpoint equipped rifle, but yeah really the batteries never die. I left mine on for over 3 years and it was still lit up when I realized it. No spare fp’s though, wow. Even my 5.56 has a spare bolt stuffed in the grip...wouldn’t mean shit without a fp.
 
Was it an HK? I bet it was one of those damned Walmart HK guns. Would never happen with a PSA.

#JustAsGood

We all know PSA makes their rifles out of solid, self lubing gold.

And no, not a HK, but a Colt.

For reference, I actually refused to use the G36 as I got into the Bundeswehr a year or so after they were 'bought' and we were basically beta testing them for HK. There was literally a standing order that we were not allowed to critisize or speak negatively about them while reps/trainers from HK were at the range/training facilities.

They had constant issues and were designed by someone who enjoyed telling you that he was smarter than you, yet was painfully obvious had never firing a fucking rifle in his life before.

Later down the road, some of us were asked to participate in a feedback/suggestions initiative on the G36, and from it, if I remember right, all they did was introduce a free floated handguard redesign; probably not because of our feedback, but because they knew of the wandering zero issue years before admitting it and thought this may have been the fix.

Thank God I was able to go through Hammelburg and pull a G3A3 alongside the AI G22.
 
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If you can access the bolt carrier from the bottom (by removing the lower receiver) use a short wood or brass dowel, about 3/8" in diameter and about 3 or 4 inches long and place on end located against an appropriate beefier part of BCG and drive it back with a small hammer.
I have had out of spec remanufactured ammo with oversized shoulder and necks get truly stuck, with ammo unfired. Mortaring did not help. The dowel and hammer worked like a charm on both occasions.

Good luck.
 
Ive had this problem. While making your reloads are you crimping? I was loading 77 grain sierra matchkings and my rcbs die seats and crimps in one. Well that bullet is to long and it would crimp before fulley seated and would bell the shoulder. It dosent take much and when the bolt carrier rams that round into the chamber it wedges it stuck. Thing was it didn't do it everytime. So out of 50 i had like 6 that did it. Wasnt untill a good inspection and some thinking i realized what was wrong. I had to mortar them out because they were jammed. That shoulder will get deformed on 55 grain ball also if your applying to much crimp also.
 
Jmkjr87,

Not certain if your reply was directed to me but if it is, the specifics are this.

The remanufactured ammo was commercial made by a well known company. There quality control had some issues in that every once or twice in several boxes a bad round would show up. I measured the rounds and compared to SAAMI specs. They were out of spec. Long story short the ammo was returned to manufacturer and my purchase price refunded.

However, I was fortunate that help was available and the rifle was unjammed. The technique I mentioned worked. The round(s) were really stuck and the bolt was not going to move with the mortar method. I now carry a wood dowel and brass punches with a cut down handle ballpeen hammer in my range bag.
 
Jmkjr87,

Not certain if your reply was directed to me but if it is, the specifics are this.

The remanufactured ammo was commercial made by a well known company. There quality control had some issues in that every once or twice in several boxes a bad round would show up. I measured the rounds and compared to SAAMI specs. They were out of spec. Long story short the ammo was returned to manufacturer and my purchase price refunded.

However, I was fortunate that help was available and the rifle was unjammed. The technique I mentioned worked. The round(s) were really stuck and the bolt was not going to move with the mortar method. I now carry a wood dowel and brass punches with a cut down handle ballpeen hammer in my range bag.
I was replying to cutthroat
 
Ive had this problem. While making your reloads are you crimping? I was loading 77 grain sierra matchkings and my rcbs die seats and crimps in one. Well that bullet is to long and it would crimp before fulley seated and would bell the shoulder. It dosent take much and when the bolt carrier rams that round into the chamber it wedges it stuck. Thing was it didn't do it everytime. So out of 50 i had like 6 that did it. Wasnt untill a good inspection and some thinking i realized what was wrong. I had to mortar them out because they were jammed. That shoulder will get deformed on 55 grain ball also if your applying to much crimp also.

Use a separate taper crimp die and you'll eliminate that problem.

Otherwise, your crimp issue is one of two things.

1. Inconsistent case length.
2. Die set too far down, allowing over crimp. Add to this, if you get a case that is longer than the one or two you used to set the die, it'll start crimping early and crush. Refer back to #1.

Take your crimp die and back it out 1/4-1/2 turn. Turn your seater stem inward to compensate for the amount the die body was turned out.


FTE on a live reloaded round can also be attributed to an improperly sized case.
Either the neck/shoulder junction is too far forward or large in diameter, or the base of the case is too fat.
Take that ill fitting round and coat it with a sharpie, chamber, then remove. You'll see exactly where your problem is.
 
Use a separate taper crimp die and you'll eliminate that problem.

Otherwise, your crimp issue is one of two things.

1. Inconsistent case length.
2. Die set too far down, allowing over crimp. Add to this, if you get a case that is longer than the one or two you used to set the die, it'll start crimping early and crush. Refer back to #1.

Take your crimp die and back it out 1/4-1/2 turn. Turn your seater stem inward to compensate for the amount the die body was turned out.


FTE on a live reloaded round can also be attributed to an improperly sized case.
Either the neck/shoulder junction is too far forward or large in diameter, or the base of the case is too fat.
Take that ill fitting round and coat it with a sharpie, chamber, then remove. You'll see exactly where your problem is.
Yea i know all that. Had this issue years ago, was saying that to cutthroat