I've got a 155LT PCK (which uses radial baffles made from aluminum) to which I've added a extra stainless blast baffle, but haven't yet had a chance to try it out on anything but a 9mm handgun. With a nominal 1/2" bore (~0.496" per my gage pins) and single clips (0.250" wide/deep), it's a bit sharp on the first round of 9mm subs from a pistol but then is decently quiet afterwards. I'm considering switching out the Liberty linear decoupler for a SilencerCo one that will sit recessed into the blast chamber, which will both shorten the assembly and hopefully quiet down the FRP.
Haven't yet had a chance to try it on my 300 AAC SBR bolt gun, and I don't intend to use it on supersonic rifle rounds.
Pros:
- Build quality is quite nice
- Modularity makes it easy to configure for multiple needs.
- Main body has 1.375x24 and accepts ASR stuff without adapters.
- Adapters are available for other common thread patterns (1.180x24, 1.187x28, 1.125x28)
- Drill jig worked very well on aluminum baffles and eventually got through the single stainless one
- Form 1s are mostly approved quickly at this moment (as long as you don't pick your own goofy model name and get sent to Research Pending purgatory)
Cons:
- Not cheap (especially once extra parts and accessories like a drill jig and wrench are added). It's not hard to spend $700-800, and that's before giving Uncle Sam his $200 cut of the action.
- Not particularly light with the addition of a single stainless baffle and a linear decoupler for pistol use
- Not yet convinced that the threads will stay clean with extended use
- If you go with stainless conical baffles, best to skip the drill jig and use a lathe w/ carbide tooling (same is probably true for Ti)
- Blast chamber seems excessively large for subsonic/low-pressure rounds, although it's probably pretty good for supersonic rifle stuff
- Can't currently get certain combinations of features and material (ex.: titanium radial baffles), or build a custom config (ex.: the HD steel tube with Ti or Al baffles)
- Aluminum kits don't include a SS or Ti blast baffle, so that's an extra cost
- No jig available for clipping, so either have a mill, make a jig with your 3D printer, or be really good with a rotary tool (I used my mill and was careful to keep the clips indexed so they would align properly)
Would I buy one again? Eh, not sure. I did this F1 build and a modular Quell-Tech 22 suppressor because I thought it would be cool to configure the cans for different purposes, but the reality is that I typically leave them in their longest config to achieve maximum performance.