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Key to accuracy?

Bjmac

Private
Minuteman
Oct 10, 2011
10
0
43
Hi all, new user here! Y'all have a great site here, I'm glad that I stumbled upon it.
I have been toying with the idea of designing a new rifle. I am requesting some opinions on what, at it's most basic form makes a rifle accurate? I'm not talking about barrel, stock type, ammo, number of lugs.... I mean why do you all feel "x" rifle design is more accurate than y design? How would everyone feel about a rifle in which the case shoulder was heavily loaded against the barrel? I have a few ideas floating around, let me hear all of yours to improve my soon to be design. Nothing too far fetched, nothing too simple.

Look forward to being a helpful member,
B.J.
 
Re: Key to accuracy?

True, a combination of quality parts is a key to accuracy. I'm speaking more in the terms of instead of buying a 700 action to build off of, build the action and bolt yourself of your own design type of accuracy.
 
Re: Key to accuracy?

It all depends on what your looking to use the gun for. Actions, barrel lengths, caliber, etc... will all be determined based on the distance your looking to shoot and the conditions your looking to shoot it in. Long story short, I agree with what mnshortdraw said. Design the gun based on your needs and make sure a good smith assembles it. That will be the most important part of the build. You'll find 10 different guys with 10 different builds by 10 different smiths that swear they have the best gun on the planet. The reason isn't that it's the best gun on the planet, but the best gun for that individual and their needs.
 
Re: Key to accuracy?

Haha, well now I hit submit and see what your talking about lol. Good luck in a better design than what is already out. You could modify based on what already exists but at what expense are you looking at compared to performance you gain? You could design something new but chances are it won't perform any better than what already exists
 
Re: Key to accuracy?

I may have accidentally upset quite a few people with my last post. I am not trying to reinvent a 700, mauser, or any other action... That would be an impossible feat. I am attempting to invent my own action, as absurd as it may seem.
( I do however have a wonderful idea that involves a new bolt for 700s.)
 
Re: Key to accuracy?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bjmac</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Hi all, new user here! Y'all have a great site here, I'm glad that I stumbled upon it.
I have been toying with the idea of designing a new rifle. I am requesting some opinions on what, at it's most basic form makes a rifle accurate? I'm not talking about barrel, stock type, ammo, number of lugs.... I mean why do you all feel "x" rifle design is more accurate than y design? How would everyone feel about a rifle in which the case shoulder was heavily loaded against the barrel? I have a few ideas floating around, let me hear all of yours to improve my soon to be design. Nothing too far fetched, nothing too simple.

Look forward to being a helpful member,
B.J.</div></div>

semd me one, I'll try it out.
 
Re: Key to accuracy?

There are so many things overall which contribute to accuracy. Start with the basics then let people like some of the folks here take it for a few range sessions then listen to what they have to say. If more companies did this I think we would be light years from where we are now.
 
Re: Key to accuracy?

It's not about one or two certain things. It's about all things working together as a unit, as a system. It's about making every component work together to optimize the performance and experience. And it's about the individuals that have to rely on their equipment or the enthusiast who have high expectations.

Its a top order. Good luck.
 
Re: Key to accuracy?

Actions are a series of trade offs, to make an action Very Stiff-as in world class, world record setting bench rest, you will limit yourself to a single shot, and heavy. The bigger the magazine opening, generally speaking the less stiff an action is, ie. 700 rem LA vs SA. How well does the action support the barrel? A heavy barrel TENDS to shoot better than a light tube. Round actions are easier to make, flat bottoms are easier to bed. And the list goes on and on. There are a lot of really good actions on the market, some are better at some things than others, you first have to decide what type of shooting etc. etc. Unless you have a really new idea, what you'll be making is an action very similar to X, maybe a little better at Y, but not as good at Z. Those that "copy" the 700 usually are selling "made better" etc. not better design. Good luck, hope your new design pans out, shooters are always interested what works better.
 
Re: Key to accuracy?

Read Harold Vaughn's book on rifle accuracy. I gathered from the book that a concentric bore concentric to the chamber mounted aware on and action that removed the most stress points like an integrated lug and integrated rail sittingin stress free bedding is great portion of rifle accuracy. For me a surgeon action is the first thing that came to mind.

Anyway...it's a good read.
 
Re: Key to accuracy?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Snipedogg</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Haha, well now I hit submit and see what your talking about lol. Good luck in a better design than what is already out. You could modify based on what already exists but at what expense are you looking at compared to performance you gain? You could design something new but chances are it won't perform any better than what already exists </div></div>

This^^

My advice is not to undergo the project if your objective is to make a marked improvement over what already exists. Undergo only if you'll enjoy the process of a DIY project that costs more to achieve the same result as just buying one already made.

That said, here are my thoughts on how to build a different mouse trap:

1. More lugs. It surprises me that I haven't seen a bolt-action gun with a bolt head like an AR. Provided you achieve even/shared lug contact amongst all lugs, this provides great accuracy, and requires much less bolt rotation. Obviously the tradeoff is manufacturing difficulty. The idea of MORE SMALLER lugs rather than LESS BIGGER lugs has certainly been done... Steyr SSGs have 2 or 3 rows of little lugs that lock into the rear ring of the receiver. Seems to work, although it seems to me like the length/diameter ratio of the bolt would be long enough to incur some buckling moments, which are tricky to engineer for. Also, the old pump action/semi auto Remington hunting rifles use MORE SMALLER lugs. They lock up almost like a course, interrupted ACME thread. The bolt locks up in a "screwing in" type fashion.

2. Longer receiver front ring, to allow the barrel to engage deeper into the receiver. This is not *needed*, as steel threads achieve maximum strength at ~1x thread diameter. Nonetheless, it would make everyone feel good to have more threads/more engagement.

3. Heavier wall-thickness receiver. Tradeoff = weight. Been done before, common practice to "sleeve" Remingtons. Don't think it really helps much anyway.

4. Minimum sized ejection port...same as how the Savage target action has made the ejection port smaller to stiffen the action. The TRGs also have a minimalist port. Others do too, I'm sure. This is simple/obvious engineering. Tradeoff is ease of loading/unloading a BDL, and reaching your finger in there to "press check" or clean/swab etc etc.

5. More footprint on the bottom of the action to allow for more bedding area

6. Built-in pillars - this would be terribly impractical (for a bunch of reasons) for a production type gun, but for a custom, it guarantees alignment and squareness and more rigidity.

7. Integral rail like a Surgeon. Stiffer/stronger/more elegant

8. More meat for the locking lugs in the action itself, particularly the bottom lugs, which also serve double duty as the feedramp.

9. Metallurgy/materials/treatments - if you're not balling on a budget, there are some frickin' AWESOME materials out there! Check out AllVac C350 for example! $100/lb though so it aint cheap. Titanium is also a neat material with some great properties, although not terribly stiff. A helluva stiff/strong action could be made from composites like CF/Kevlar.

10. Clamp-in barrel instead of threaded-in barrel, like a Sig STR rifle. It is easier to turn/grind metal to a precision diameter than to achieve a precision pitch diameter, and to simply "slip the barrel" into the end of the receiever, and then clamp it in. This also makes a switch barrel setup a lot easier.

11. LOW travel firing pin. The less distance a firing pin needs to move, is only better for lock time and aids the shooters ability to remain on target during the firing event. Afterall, the firing pin really only needs to move ~.065" or so to be able to be totally out of the chamber when cocked, and to achieve ~.055" protrusion for ignition.

12. Non-sprung ejector, like a mauser/winchester/others. Theory is you don't have a spring trying to "cock" the cartridge off to the side when chambered. Many don't like the mauser/winchester design, because there is a clearance slot cut into the bolt head for the ejector blade to pop up into. With some creativity, I'm sure this could be avoided.

13. Floating bolt head - seems to work out pretty well for Savage, Bighorn and the new Reminginton MSR-AV-TTR-GLR-LTV (or whatever the hell that thing is).

I'll stop now...

I'd like to recant the impracticality of this excercise. Fun perhaps, but completely impractical and highly unlikely to realize any measurable improvement over what is already available. As has been proven countless times, any old factory action can shoot pretty frickin nice out of the box. The OEM design is pretty good! All it really needs is someone to be careful during the manufacture to keep everything square and true and the correct dimensions....oh yeah....that's already done.....by a whole host of different companies. It's incredible what you get from Surgeon (et al) for ~$1000. Good luck competing with that!
 
Re: Key to accuracy?

Accuracy (accurate rifle) is relative.

Can some one build a rifle that shoots one hole groups, that's heavy, bolted down to a bench, (as in long range bench rest guns)? Sure they can, its been done.

Will that same rifle be accurate hunting elk at 10,000 feet, after humping a pack all day to get to the herd? I doubt it.

Will that be accurate after being drug through the rice paddies? I doubt it.

A lot depends on what you want to do with the rifle. In the above case, I think a shooter is going to be able to shoot a light mountain rifle better the the heavy bench gun. Then again the light mountain rifle wont shoot the 1 hole bench rest groups at distance.

Your bench rifle wont work dripping with mud and slime like a loose military bolt gun.

My contention is, there is no "perfect rifle". No way you can build a super accurate bench gun that ways 6.5 pounds. Nor is it practical to take a 20 lb bench gun sheep or elk hunting in the mountains.
 
Re: Key to accuracy?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bjmac</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Hi all, new user here! Y'all have a great site here, I'm glad that I stumbled upon it.
I have been toying with the idea of designing a new rifle. I am requesting some opinions on what, at it's most basic form makes a rifle accurate? I'm not talking about barrel, stock type, ammo, number of lugs.... I mean why do you all feel "x" rifle design is more accurate than y design? How would everyone feel about a rifle in which the case shoulder was heavily loaded against the barrel? I have a few ideas floating around, let me hear all of yours to improve my soon to be design. Nothing too far fetched, nothing too simple.

Look forward to being a helpful member,
B.J. </div></div>

Welcome to Snipers hide Bjmac,

I don't know what your invention would entail but as far as the case shoulder being pushed hard against the shoulder portion of the chamber to improve accuracy many of us have experimented with that already. Neck size the case only a few times and that's what happens. It may or may not improve accuracy but usually does help a little but I think the accuracy has more to do with the case fitting the chamber well from fire forming to the actual chamber dimensions. The problem is with the hard bolt close it causes which creates other problems like making the gun impractical for any match shooting with a time limit. You'll also find out that not every case closes with the same force. I don't know why but that's been my experience. If anyone would know for sure about this kind of stuff it's the short range benchrest shooters. Even they full length size with custom dies made for minimal sizing and shoulder bump.

Like people mentioned earlier. Ultimate accuracy is about the whole system not just the rifle. One of my biggest theories with accuracy has to do with the rifle tracking the same every time. If there is the smallest amount of torque imposed differently on the system the shot will reflect it. Every time time I go shooting I'm rudely reminded,LOL. One of my other theories is ammo efficiency,concentricity and consistency. Another theory is vibration being linked to temperature and humidity. I've gone out shooting more than a few times when my gun would shoot crazy good only to be disappointed the very next day with average groups.
 
Re: Key to accuracy?

Turbo, I like, 2,3,8,9,11,12! I would add pre existing barrel thread/nut design to those also. Savage style maybe?

Kraig, I agree %100. My hunting rifle is a pressed barrel rem 710. I have a three shot "one hole" group with that stock! Shows my opinion on a system working together! I bought it for a friend to use while hunting with me (cheap) and now occasionaly use it myself if the weather is bad. I did save that target which I will post eventually. I also have a two shot one hole bolt slug target I want to put up too.


Steve, I thank you for the welcome, this truly is a great site. I wish I had a more common first post. I ask you Steve, if I handed you a bolt for your current rifle that would gaurantee at least #20 of force on the case with normal locking effort, would you want it? Would it be worth buying? Do you really feel fire forming improves accuracy? (Leave that last one for another post.lol)

To all others that have commented, thank you. I did ask for opinions and most, if not all of you had the same general thought... Why? I thought about it and feel as though there almost isn't a reason to design a better rifle when they already exist. Well, not when the amount of money it would take to have a working design is more than I make in a year.
 
Re: Key to accuracy?

I'm of the opinion that fireforming (for NON wildcat/improved/specialized cartridges) is of little/no benefit towards accuracy. I don't have any experience with wildcats and improved cartridges, but I know I've read over and over again that exceptional accuracy is commonly achieved WHILE fireforming for wildcats.

I can't cite a whole bunch of scientific data, but can say that I have done a lot of reloading, and put some significant effort into being able to make concentric (.0015" TIR) ammo consistently. I don't have a benchrest rifle, I don't fire from rests, and I'm not an "end all be all" shooter, but I can shoot bugholes at 200 yards with new Lapua 308 brass, and with 1X, 2X etc etc brass.

I hate the "feel" of neck-sized only brass when chambering. That tight bolt closing feels crappy. Also, I don't think it is doing the lug ramps (cams) any good either. They really aren't designed/manufactured with the intent of having a lot of sliding load on them, which is required when using them as mechanical advantage to compress a cartridge that is asking for a tick more headspace than the chamber can offer.

My opinion is that you'd need to rethink those ramps, and design/build them accordingly.

Beyond that, I question your ability to quote a spefic preload force.... You claimed 20lbs. You can rather easily quote a linear measurement of preload - say .002"... But that .002" preload is going to manifest itself as a different force depending on case thickness and hardness....which never remains terribly constant across a batch of brass (my brass anyway).

For example: I load 100 new Lapua cases, and fire them. If I necksize ONLY, they chamber pretty ok, with not to much drag on the bolt while closing. If I then again necksize ONLY, they will exhibit a fair bit of drag on chambering. That amount of drag is absolutely different across my batch of 100 cartridges. Some have little/no drag, some have a slight drag, and some feel like I've got to lean on the bolt a decent bit to lock up.
 
Re: Key to accuracy?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Tripwire</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If you can re-invent the 700 better than it's already been done by countless custom action makers...then by all means, let us know. </div></div>
^^^^
I'm going to expand on what trip-wire said to reference the fact that there are many more parts and options available for 700 based actions. That was noted to me and the key in my decision when I was trying to decide between a 700 action and a pre-64 winchester based action...availability of parts.
 
Re: Key to accuracy?

Based on my bolt design it would be spring pressure exerted on the rear of the case. I'm not going to get into specifics, but it does involve more moving parts. Which is a definite drawback.
 
Re: Key to accuracy?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bjmac</div><div class="ubbcode-body">


Steve, I thank you for the welcome, this truly is a great site. I wish I had a more common first post. I ask you Steve, if I handed you a bolt for your current rifle that would gaurantee at least #20 of force on the case with normal locking effort, would you want it? Would it be worth buying? Do you really feel fire forming improves accuracy? (Leave that last one for another post.lol) </div></div>


I think a lot of people would be interested if your bolt design is proven to improve accuracy in and of itself. I'm certainly not going to discourage someone from trying new things and I hope it works out for you.

I prefer wildcat cartridges so I'm well informed with fireforming and accuracy before and afterwards. Yes it's true I can get 3/4 moa groups while fireforming which is fine but less with the fireformed brass. Again...all we have to do is look to the short range benchrest crowd and take 6PPC as the example. If they thought that they could get the most accuracy out of a unfireformed case you know they'd use them. For these guys a few .001"s can be the difference between a win and 2cnd place.
 
Re: Key to accuracy?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bjmac</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Based on my bolt design it would be spring pressure exerted on the rear of the case. I'm not going to get into specifics, but it does involve more moving parts. Which is a definite drawback. </div></div>

Before making anything from scratch... Why not take a R700 bolt, and install a second (and maybe even third) ejector plunger into it? That will give you the "spring push" forward on the case. Any action with a sprung ejector already pushes the case forward against the chamber shoulder, but it can be (has been) argued because it only pushes on one side of the casehead, it "cocks" the case in the chamber a bit and that isn't good.

So, if you installed a 2nd ejector, 180º from the original one, you could even it out. A third, so that all 3 were 120º out would be better yet, if there is enough real estate to achieve it.

I really, really question what advantage could be realized from this however.
 
Re: Key to accuracy?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Phylodog</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The key to accuracy = consistency. </div></div>

^^That's it- ^^
As long as everything "happens" the same way, every time (receiver movement, barrel whip, etc.) it will be accurate. Think in terms of repeatable /predictable...