KRG Bravo Pic Thread

Rockdoc173

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  • Aug 26, 2014
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    I searched for a KRG Bravo pic and info thread but I couldn't find one. If it's out there, please share with the class, otherwise there really needs to be. The Bravo has become a staple in the precision rifle world with it's affordability, quality, and modularity. A guy can buy the basic stock, then, if he so desires, bolt on everything from ARCA spigots to weighted LOP spacers. If there's not already one out there, let make this a place to share unique creations using the Bravo.
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    Average guy

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    Dec 25, 2018
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    On easy way to paint them in a classy way is to remove the backbone and all black fasteners. Once painter these black elements give a nice contrast and a finished look.
     

    EotS

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    Nov 12, 2020
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    Would I gain anything by dumping my Bergara HMR stock in favor of the Bravo??
     

    Jack Master

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    Aug 7, 2018
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    Here
    www.snipershide.com
    Here is that post..

    I built a Tikka CTR in a Bravo Chassis. I added weight to the frame in 2 places, the forend and the butt plate shims. I have a very good machinist friend that help me out this this. If anyone would like the Drawings I would be happy to share.

    I had 3 goals with this weight system.
    1. I wanted to be able to add and remove the weigh to fit the mission. If I go shoot P-dogs with is I will add the weight, If I have to pack the rifle I can make it light. Since the Bravo is designed to be light, why not keep the option?
    2. To be able to Balance the rifle in front of the mag well. Once I shoot this barrel out and re-barrel it, I still want to rebalance it.
    3. To add support to the extended arca rail. I ordered the long rail with the Bravo but found it has to much flex when the bi-pod is mounted on the cantilever section when preloading.

    The system has 3 weights I can add. The first is a weight mount bar. This bar slides into the forend frame under the handgaurd and is attached to the chassis by the 4 mounting screws for the spigot. The second is a front weight that gets attached to the mounting bar. The third are steel shims in the butt plate. My intention is to always leave the mounting bar under the handrail in place and balance the rifle with the but plate shims.

    Weights:
    11.9lbs - Rifle stand alone ( Tikka CTR Factory rifle 6.5 Creed. Vortex AMG, Bravo Chassis with extended arca rail, Patriot Valley arms Jet Blast Muzzle break. no mag or ammo, No Ckye Bi-pod)
    19lbs - rifle, bi-pod and full weight set. (ckye bi-pod - 1.46lbs)
    I was able to add 5.64lbs of weights , plus 1.46lb bi-pod = 7.1lbs total added.

    Balance point
    1 - light setup, no bipod. The rifle balances with the weight bar added and no rear shims.
    2. Light setup with Bipod. The rifle needed two rear shims added. Wt = 16lbs. This is an Ideal weight for me.
    3. Full weight added, no Bipod. The rifle needed 3 rear shim plates.
    4. Full weight with Bipod(far out). With 3 rear shims the rifle balanced about 2 inches in front of the mag well.

    I won't say this is prettiest thing in the world but it sure did work. I will get it Blued (black) this supper.

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    More Photos:
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    Rockdoc173

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  • Aug 26, 2014
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    That's what I thought. I'm actually working on a few DIY mods myself, could I get the drawing you mentioned?
     

    Eustice

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    Aug 14, 2014
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    I had a 6mm built and was debating what to put it in. I was thinking another MPA or MDT or even a Manners. I was so impressed with the Bravo I decided to go with it. I used it at the Vortex Team Sniper Challenge and liked it so much I replaced the MPA my .308 was in.

    Tuebor Precision Action, Bartlein barrel, KRG Bravo, and a NF ATACR.
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    Matt_3479

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    Bighorn tl3, benchmark 6groove 1:8 twist 223 rem mtu contour, tt diamond, krg bravo,

    I own krg whiskey 3, mpa comp, manners eh1a, eh5a, t5, prs1t, McMillan htg, McMillan a5 and every time I pick up the bravo it’s just so natural!! It’s the perfect combo between usable and comfortable for hunting and tacrical/target/prs

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    RFutch

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  • Sep 28, 2010
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    I've seen your pics floating around. Can you add some details?
    Just took these today after making some changes. Top to bottom:

    Origin/ PVA 224 Valkyrie with SWFA SS 5-20
    Bergara B14R 22lr with NXS 3.5-15
    Family pic with my 6.5CM/ Swaro 4-12-50 in the green.
     

    Rockdoc173

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  • Aug 26, 2014
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    I've been working on a Bravo-related project some of you might be interested in, others may be repulsed. The one and only complaint I have about the Bravo is that the stock is front heavy, made much worse by the 26" M24 profile 6CM barrel used on my project that, by itself, is 5lb. The fulcrum of the rifle is forward of the mag well. So, to remedy this, I decided to add weight to the rear of the stock. The goal is not just to add weight, but weight insofar as it balances the rifle and moves the fulcrum aft.

    On my last Bravo, I used JB Weld and steel BBs. This time, however, I wanted more weight and a cleaner look. Initially, I intended to make removable weights. This proved cumbersome and unnecessarily complicated so I went for the permanent option. This time around I chose to use copper instead of steel since it is around 12% denser than steel, giving me more weight per cubic inch. I used a mold-making material called EasyFlo Black sourced from Brick In the Yard, or BITY.
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    Again, originally I planned to make removable weights. I would've started with a positive using a gel material, then a negative with more gel, then the final positive out of the EasyFlo but it was just not working the way I wanted so I abandoned it in favor of permanently adding the material to the stock. The EasyFlo is just the binding substrate, the real weight comes from the copper shavings I acquired via Etsy.
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    When it was all said and done, I mixed 1-1/2lb of copper chips in with the EasyFlo. Actually, pre-measured the two parts which is a 1:1 ratio, mixed the copper in with part B, then added part A to the B/copper mixture and stirred it all together quickly. The EasyFlo only has a pour time of about two minutes (and they mean two) so I had to work quickly. Just before introducing the mixture into the stock, I poured the excess liquid into a waiting container, poured the saturated copper mixture into the stock, then capped it off with the liquid to make it all look pretty.
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    The majority went into the rear of the stock
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    The rest filled the under side and grip cavities
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    In total, I added 1-1/2lbs and all in the rear-most portion of the stock pushing the center of gravity to the buttock area. Once the enclosed forend comes in, the whole stock should balance out nicely. NOTE I'm prepped for pain it looks like crap at the moment.
     

    Rockdoc173

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  • Aug 26, 2014
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    I would add that this is perfect future product for KRG. Not what I did, but those voids are perfect for drop in weights machined from brass or even steel.
     

    Hennig

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    Sep 28, 2011
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    I 3d printed little containers that fit inside the grip etc, so you can make your own removable plugs without having to get a chunk of steel etc machined. I really should tidy up the STL and post it for other people to use.
     

    greentick

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    Feb 20, 2021
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    Freshly assembled. ¡Muchas gracìas! to the folks at KRG and Impact for answering questions and to the massive wealth of knowledge and smartassery here at the Hide (especially the "Impact in a Bravo threads). Still have a few widgets to install but otherwise ready to fire.

    6.5 Creedmoor
     

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