Just wandering if anyone has got creative and made there KRG bravo a bit heavier for stability. I know they sell weights, but I was looking for more budget solutions.
Thanks
Thanks
- Thread starter Jarrodb1975
- Start date
I know at least one guy on here has epoxied lead weights wherever they would fit. I would think that's about your only option besides their kits.
stick on wheel weights
I have a couple of steel spacers for my butt pad being delivered today. Each is .6 ilbs. I want to even the weight out a bit.
Besides the KRG weights, plastic balloon filled with annealed steel shot in the grip compartment.
Had a chunk of walnut sitting around. 
Used one of the plastic spacers as a 
pattern and made this. Used a 1” Forstner bit and bored a couple of recesses in it and put powdered metal heavy washers in them for added weight. PVA JHR with added class!
Do the lop weights fit on the bravo?
KRG sells steel lop heavy spacers at .66 lbs that fit the bravo. I was going to have a fabricator I know water jet some out of stainless but decided the weighted walnut spacer was something a little different.
I put two on my Bravo. Even with the REM varmint contour it is too heavy in the back. I will take one out and replace it with a plastic spacer.
The heavy LOP spacers fit the Bravo fine, I'm running several on my Bravo. Was planning to put three on it to counter-balance a 26" M24 stainless steel barrel but with the adjustable buttpad the LOP got too long so I had to remove one and I added a balloon filled with annealed steel shot to the Bravo's grip compartment instead.
Yes Sir...
Adhesive, lead wheel weights stuck together and placed on their sides fits the forearm perfectly. The butt and hollow part of the grip were filled with slip type fishing weights. Use a hot glue gun and fill around the edges and void spaces in the weights to keep them from rattling around.
You can add 5lbs purty easy.
Send me a pic of that.
I need about a pound up front to make it balanced. Got it at 19.6 with bb’s in but stock.
If you are using the KRG T-slot forend weight (.75 lb.), and the heavy barricade stop (.36 lb.) you've got 1.11 lb. up front; unless you are using them already and need more weight to get to your desired balance, in which case you might be able to utilize a pair of the MDT ACC M-Lok exterior forend weights (.78 lb.). Hope this helps.
Thanks for the help guys. Ended up putting BB’s in all the rear crevasses and few sticky weights inside front. Got me up to 19lbs. That’s up 2.5 lbs.
I have Tikka T3x varmint with a 24" barrel in my KRG BRAVO chassis. Like many people before have said I use stick on weights. If you remove your foregrip to expose the aluminum chassis you'll find out there's a ton of room between the bottom of the chassis and the top of the foregrip. I used the black weights so when the foregrip is in place you can't even see them. They are trimmable and drill very easily I was able to put almost two and a half pounds of extra weight where I wanted to. The krg also has a large void in the butt stock, you could put a lot of weight in. I really don't think you should overcomplicate the thing , the stick on weights are designed to adhere to car wheels for balancing so they will never fall off until you actually take them off.
The price of weight kits for precision rifle is ridiculous which makes me feel good that I only spent $20 for 9 lb of weight I was looking at some others and for the same amount of weight I could have spent almost $600 if I went with a fancy pre-made weight set up.
The price of weight kits for precision rifle is ridiculous which makes me feel good that I only spent $20 for 9 lb of weight I was looking at some others and for the same amount of weight I could have spent almost $600 if I went with a fancy pre-made weight set up.
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Somewhat related question regarding KRG OEM weights for the bravo. Recently picked up one in the PX and I do not yet have the action I am going to put inside it in hand just yet, but I assembled the stock (weights, ARCA, barrier stop, etc).
What I noticed is that the OEM weight "slides" forward and back by a 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch.
Is that normal?
EDIT: Tagging KRG @Massoud
What I noticed is that the OEM weight "slides" forward and back by a 1/4 to 1/3 of an inch.
Is that normal?
EDIT: Tagging KRG @Massoud
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I wish I could answer that. I'm just not sure. I was able to add two and a half pounds my rifle I used wheel weights on the underside of the chassis. They use 3M tape to hold them in place they absolutely will not come loose even with a 338 Lapua. Also they cost $20 for a 9 lb box. They are black and when you put the fore grip back on you cannot see them at all you can drill holes in them make clearance for mounting things on the foregrip. Also there is a large void in the butt stock I have found you can counterbalance any added weight that you put on the front end of your gun by putting some additional weight back there. My Tikka t3x varmint in .223 weighs approximately 16 lb fully Decked Out
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If it’s the backbone weight, there should be set screws to anchor it in place once you’ve positioned it where you want.
I dont see any additional set screws in my kit. I noticed the longer screws to secure the ARCA rail to the bravo line up with the same interior holes that look to be where the weight would lock down. But when I locked the ARCA rale down, the weight would still slide. Let me know if anyone sees anything suspicious:
What OEM weights are you talking about?
The t-slot weight from KRG uses a bunch of screws to hold it into place. The only other OEM that I’m tracking is the buttstock weights.
I have one and once all those screws where tightened up it doesn’t move.
That’s interesting
You're referencing the smaller screws contained within the weight right?
I'm an idiot. I see how it works now. Thanks for the above gents. Turning the screws locks it in.
I'm an idiot. I see how it works now. Thanks for the above gents. Turning the screws locks it in.
It happens lol
