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Sidearms & Scatterguns Large Metal Shavings Coming out of S&W Revolver

eazy

Private
Minuteman
Apr 17, 2017
74
27
Jacksonville, FL
Hey guys,

I picked a new .38 Smith and Wesson 442 recently and took it to the range yesterday for the third time. When I was cleaning the cylinders and barrel with Hoppes this morning, large metal shavings started coming out of the barrel. After further inspection I also noticed a new gouge in the gun below the plunger gouge (which I assume to be normal).

I cleaned it before ever firing it and have cleaned it after each range trip. Yesterday I just shot 35 rounds of Magtech 158gr lead round nose.

Is any of this normal?
Is this from shooting lead round nose ammo?

This is my first revolver and it only has about 200 rounds through it.

Thanks.

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After cleaning the bore repeatedly with a bore brush I'm fairly certain it was that LRN ammo. Now the grooves look clean. Won't be buying that stuff again.
 
That's still a pretty gnarly gouge from where the extractor rod is coming in contact with the rear of the frame. I'm not an expert on this, but I am pretty suspect on the quality of S&W lately. I purchased a 637 in 2017 that had flashing inside frame that would make Taurus proud.
 
It makes sense that the extractor rod is going to win that battle as it is steel. Have you checked to see if its screwed in tight? S&W rods screw counter clockwise to tighten (at least all the ones I've messed with).
 
The metal shavings are lead and that is normal, lead ammo and revolvers = cleaning nightmare. The gouge seems excessive but It may be normal as that frame is aluminum I believe.
 
The metal shavings are lead and that is normal, lead ammo and revolvers = cleaning nightmare. The gouge seems excessive but It may be normal as that frame is aluminum I believe.

Thanks for confirming. I'll be sticking to brass from now on.

I've been trying out different rounds to see what hits at point of aim. Everything seems to impact high for me at 5-10 yards. If I hold 6 o'clock I shoot bullseye's.
 
Looks like leading coming out of bore. Shoot better ammo.
 
I’d check to see how your cylinder and forcing cone alignment looks, but my first guess would be leading from shooting soft lead ammo.
 
What @Bigfatcock and @Powder_Burns said. It might well be a mix of the ammo you're using plus the alignment of the cylinder. When you fire a really shitty revolver like one of those little Rohm .22s, they're so badly put together and misaligned that you'll put more lead into your hand from the bullet shaving bits off as it leaves the chamber than you will downrange; with a Smith & Wesson, you oughta have vastly better quality control to begin with so try different ammo first, then have your alignment looked at. Chances are one or both will help fix your issue.
 
What @Bigfatcock and @Powder_Burns said. It might well be a mix of the ammo you're using plus the alignment of the cylinder. When you fire a really shitty revolver like one of those little Rohm .22s, they're so badly put together and misaligned that you'll put more lead into your hand from the bullet shaving bits off as it leaves the chamber than you will downrange; with a Smith & Wesson, you oughta have vastly better quality control to begin with so try different ammo first, then have your alignment looked at. Chances are one or both will help fix your issue.
Now that you mention it, the second time I was at the range I fired a shot and metal shavings blew out and cut the inside of my palm on my support hand. My hand wasn't anywhere near the entrance to the bore.
 
Now that you mention it, the second time I was at the range I fired a shot and metal shavings blew out and cut the inside of my palm on my support hand. My hand wasn't anywhere near the entrance to the bore.
Then I think I'll amend my statement in line with the one right ^. Call S&W and have the alignment checked ASAP. It still could be an ammo problem too but you're gonna want to have the gun looked at first. If it's misaligned and you try different ammo, it might result in catastrophic failure and bits of lead in your hand will be the least of your troubles.
 
Mag tech ammo is pretty shitty. It’s a mix of to soft, probably undersized, and marginal lube (if any). With the amount of lead/crap build up on the face of the cylinder, it may just be blowing that out as it’s fired, and not actually shaving the bullet with the forcing cone. Hard to tell from not being able to look at it, and diagnose on the inter web.

Have you fired any FMJ out of it? If so, did you get any spitting out of the barrel cylinder gap?

Do you have a way to check the barrel cylinder gap?

How does the forcing cone look? Rough as a cob? Smooth?

My only concern is the lead spitting. If no spitting with FMJ then it’s fine-ish.
 
Mag tech ammo is pretty shitty. It’s a mix of to soft, probably undersized, and marginal lube (if any). With the amount of lead/crap build up on the face of the cylinder, it may just be blowing that out as it’s fired, and not actually shaving the bullet with the forcing cone. Hard to tell from not being able to look at it, and diagnose on the inter web.

Have you fired any FMJ out of it? If so, did you get any spitting out of the barrel cylinder gap?

Do you have a way to check the barrel cylinder gap?

How does the forcing cone look? Rough as a cob? Smooth?

My only concern is the lead spitting. If no spitting with FMJ then it’s fine-ish.

Thinking about it more, when I had the shavings blow out of it and cut me, that was actually on my first range trip. I bought 2 boxes of reloads at the range. I don't think they were lead though, and the staff seemed surprised when I said shavings blew out and cut my hand, saying they had very good luck with that ammo.

I don't have a caliper or anything. I can take some pictures though...
 
Thats one of the worst ones I’ve seen. Even the heritage and rohm’s have better quality. Looks like it is peened at 3 o’clock too.
 
I have a 642. It got out of time once.
Not sure how that happens but S&W fixed it at no cost and has ran great for
many years.

I would not shoot it till it is seviced as a precaution.

Your range sells reloads?
 
That forcing cone has not been polished smooth. Looks fresh off a rough tool cut. Also check your timing. Lightly resist cylinder turn with your left thumb on the top strap and cylinder. Slowly cock the hammer with your right thumb. If the cylinder requires any play at all to complete rotation into locked position, the timing is off and the least it will do is shave lead. Your forcing cone make crack, and worst case scenario is frame comes apart. I would contact SW on this one. Also, shooting bare lead is not only unhealthy due to splatter on hands and inhalation, but a PITA to clean. Get some powder coated or copper plated bullets for plinking.
 
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here’s the skinny.....that gun needs to be returned to smith. that gouge is NOT normal.

i’ve shot bunches of lead ammo, and have never had problems what you are describing in guns that are built right. the gouge in the frame is a massive sign that something isnt right with that gun. the spitting lead out and massive leading issue is another clue.

call smith and send it in. i had an issue with one of my smiths.....from the time i called them, to the time the gun was back in my hand working perfectly was pretty unbelievable. i want to say like 2 1/2 weeks....and they had fed ex pick it up here at my house. this is one of the reasons you buy from proven companies like smith....if something goes wrong...you have a company that is going to stand behind their gun.

i never was a smith fanboy. they really made me angry when they stepped up to sign a deal years ago with the anti’s. owners changed, and they turned that company back into the something great. they’ve certainly done right by me and smith is one of the first companies i recommend to people who ask for guidance.

call them, send it in, and rest easy. they’ve fix it up and square you away.