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Liberty Gun Safes?

Forgot to mention that what I did was use Craigslist and arms list to find the very best unit I could afford. I ended up with a Fort Knox “chuck yeager” for $1500. I Was looking new at a liberty fat boy.

a brand I have liked on their higher end stuff was heritage. Not sureabout them now. Graffunder, Fort Knox, amsec are brands with models that are pretty good.
 
I bought a Champion Trophy 72 about 4 years ago and really like it. I wouldn’t get too geeked out over specs on fire rating and steel thickness. Just buy the biggest safe you can as others have said. Mine is almost full so I’ll probably be looking for another one sometime soon.
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What is everyone’s preference on the locking mechanism? I hate combinations (always have) but paranoid about the digital not working in crunch time. Like Fort Knox option for redundant (both) but they are pricey.

After having had both types, I prefer digital, and have had zero problems with either from Liberty. Although I do remember being hesitant when switching to digital. I keep my daily CCW in the safe, so I am in and out alot. I recall Liberty having multiple electronic locks available, and I did get one of the better ones, but I do not remember the details.

I use a quick access bed side wall mounted lock box for “bump in the night scenarios”, as it is significantly easier and faster than a safe for me. I could not imagine having to get to my actual safe across the room, unlock it in the dark, swing the big door open, get blasted with the LEDs inside, etc., all with a potential intruder bearing down on me or my fam, all while I am groggy.
 
I have a Superior Untouchable 45. Actually wish now I had went bigger. It weighs 1800 lbs empty. 1/2" plate steel door and 1/4" plate body. The locking bolt mechanism is supported unlike any of the cheaper liberty or china safes. Champion and Superior are the same parent company. When I was at the distributor they showed me some inferior safes they had that had been broken into. The common theme was the locking bolts were supported by flimsy angle iron which just gave way. Chances are if the interior door doesnt come off to show the locking mechanism its because they dont want you to see it. Also I was strongly encouraged to buy a mechanical lock. The distribution center (which does repairs) told me it's not if but when the electronic fails and getting into a higher end RSC is costly and leaves the safe less protected. I've gotten used to the combo and its pretty quick.

When it comes to these, none of them are "safes" but you're buying time. Buy the best you can afford and bolt it down so it's harder to pry on the door.

 

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A friend of mine somehow screwed up his electronic lock bad enough that we couldn't fix it or get through safe open. It was a cannon or liberty or something along those lines, don't remember exactly. Anyway, after quite a few beers we talked him into letting us break into it so he could get his stuff out. We thought about plasma and skinny wheels on grinders and everything else you might consider in a well equipped shop. We started simple figuring we'd work up to cutting into it.

We slid it out where we had some room, played it on its back, and 2 drunks pried the door open with tire mounting tools in 45 seconds.

Sure, we moved it and had took to work, but I think the moral of the story is that it doesn't take anything fancy to get into them. I have my thought about fire ratings too, but any of the nicer safes have them, so its not like you can save any money ignoring them.

Im not trying to say don't buy a liberty or whatever you want. I've got to get a new one and I'll go the $1500 direction too. Just don't expect it to keep criminals or fire out. If they've got time to get to the safe, they've got time to open it. Hell, one of the neighbors claims that someone loaded his entire safe into a truck while he was in mexico on vacation Lol.

Must have been a cannon.

a safe is just to keep a honest person out.
 
If you pick a big safe, I suggest making a cardboard cut out of its footprint in advance to make sure you can actually get it through your house to its final resting place, and for any safe, if possible make sure there are no water lines or anything else where the anchor bolts will be going through the floor.
 
This thread has confirmed what I already know. That if you are marked by real thieves as someone with gun/stuff worth stealing only the most expensive safes have a chance to hold up. With enough time and tools even the Amsec and Fort Knox will fall to plasma torches and tools of that caliber.

my question is does Liberty or another budget brand offer enough protection to keep honest people honest and to keep your average smash and grab intruder out?
 
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This thread has confirmed what I already know. That if you are marked by real thieves as someone with gun/stuff worth stealing only the most expensive safes have a chance to hold up. With enough time and tools even the Amsec and Fort Knox will fall to plasma torches and tools of that caliber.

my question is does Liberty or another budget brand offer enough protection to keep honest people honest and to keep your average smash and grab intruder out?
My Champion Trophy was less than $2500 delivered and installed into my basement (2 guys with the right equipment) and would keep any average thief out. I just put 4 tapcons into the floor to keep someone from trying to tip it over. It weighs 1275# empty and dimensions are 72" tall x 50" wide x 28" deep. I think with the gloss paint that it looks good also! I would recommend to go for size over security if you are not willing to spend a ton of $ on the high end brands like Amsec or Fort Knox.
 
Delivering into the basement:
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(Not sure how to rotate the bottom pic?)
 

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my question is does Liberty or another budget brand offer enough protection to keep honest people honest and to keep your average smash and grab intruder out?

Liberty has several different levels. But using the term "budget" I would say no. Any of the budget gun safes can be busted into with a recking bar in about a minute.
 
That seems to be a common theme. I may buck up and get the 40. The 25 would fit a lot better in the space, between that and the price it's a bigger driver to go to the 25.

But I also don't want to regret getting too small of a gunsmith later on down the road, and end up with two.

The AR15s will also take up more room than you realize. If you have Modern Sporting Rifles and scoped bolt-guns then figure about 1/2 the states capacity, maybe 12-15 long guns. You can get an organizer for the inside of the door to hold 6-8 pistols.

If that's all you ever plan to own that's fine, but everybody starts out with that intention then eventually runs out of space!
 
I agree with you here. I worry about the Digital’s as well. I think combination is the best, or spring for both.
I've had digital for years and really no complaint. It starts warning about low battery well in advance of actually dying. The only downside is after entering the code you have to wait a second for the mechanism to unlock before you spin the handle.

If you try to turn the handle immediately after entering the code the mechanism hasn't completely unlocked so it doesnt open. Then you have to wait a few seconds for it to reset and do it again.
 
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I've had digital for years and really no complaint. It starts warning about low battery well in advance of actually dying. The only downside is after entering the code you have to wait a second for the mechanism to unlock before you spin the handle.

If you try to turn the handle immediately after entering the code the mechanism hasn't completely unlocked so it doesnt open. Then you have to wait a few seconds for it to reset and do it again.
I guess I just don’t like the idea that it could die. Probably not very likely, granted, but more likely than a mechanical failure. Most likely more in my head than anything 😃
 
Liberty has several different levels. But using the term "budget" I would say no. Any of the budget gun safes can be busted into with a recking bar in about a minute.

If the thieves know what they are doing at all it's just as likely they will steal the whole safe. Either wheel it out on a refrigerator dolly if you dont bolt it down or get a chain around it through a window and rip it loose with a truck then dolly it out.

I even read about one where they used the chain / truck method but ripped it right through the side of the house. Its just 2x4 and siding so not as hard as you might think.
 
My Champion Trophy was less than $2500 delivered and installed into my basement (2 guys with the right equipment) and would keep any average thief out. I just put 4 tapcons into the floor to keep someone from trying to tip it over. It weighs 1275# empty and dimensions are 72" tall x 50" wide x 28" deep. I think with the gloss paint that it looks good also! I would recommend to go for size over security if you are not willing to spend a ton of $ on the high end brands like Amsec or Fort Knox.
Seriously skip or replace the tapcons and use big redhead dropins. Tapcons are barely better than drywall screws into an OSB subfloor.
 
Seriously skip or replace the tapcons and use big redhead dropins. Tapcons are barely better than drywall screws into an OSB subfloor.
If I was planning to permanently anchor it to the floor I would definitely gone with the drop ins. My goal was simply to give it some attachment to the floor. I will be moving it to a different location in the basement in the near future.
 
Seriously skip or replace the tapcons and use big redhead dropins. Tapcons are barely better than drywall screws into an OSB subfloor.
on one safe i also put a lag screw thru the top of the back into a wall stud. that puppy ain't moving.
 
It seems the consensus is get the largest safe you can afford. I ended up with 3 because I went "just right size" 30 years ago and then had to get a larger and then even larger.
I have a RedHead and Liberty safe. I can feel the difference in quality every time I open the door. Liberty Safe all the way.
 
Anything short of a AMSEC BF series is a cheap RSC, even those fancy liberty safes.

My recommendation is this. A safe does not protect your valuables for anything other than a smash and grab. Anything short of a real safe (Which start at about $4K and go up quick) can be cracked in less than a minute with an angle grinder or a pry bar. Fire ratings mean jack shit in almost every real fire the safe will be in hot coals and soaked in water so everything will be destroyed anyway.

The first step is to ensure everything with a personal property or collectors insurance. Its cheap, usually less than 1% per year of insured value. With USAA it doesn't matter if its stolen, burnt up or I drop it out a boat or just plain lose it, its covered.

Now that your stuff is fully insured you need to decide what kind of storage. You can get a Big quality safe that will cost thousands and weigh thousands. It will be harder to break into, more fire resistant ect. But even then, until you get up into the TL rated safes, most can be cracked without too much time or tools.

So the logical answer is buy the biggest safe you can store. The fatboy is a great example of an inexpensive safe that will deter smash and grabs and keep the kids dick beaters out.

Even then, if something does happen, House floods, fire, tornado, stollen, lost....whatever... you are covered for full replacement value.

If you have other valuables, look into a real safe and document bags. Gun safes are shitty document/jewel safes and get way to hot too quickly. Something with alteast 2 hour 1800* rating and TL15. Small used TL safes can be found for $1-2K and usually weight about 2-4K lbs. If you have silver/gold ect they are g a good investment.

Then add a nice alarm system and cameras and you have enough layered security you shouldn't have to worry.

I have an AMSEC BF, and am very happy with it, but it is just a higher priced RSC......... open the door, and on the vertical door jamb there will be several stickers, one of them will say UL listed Resendtial Security Container...........not a real safe.
 
I went big Superior Untouchable 65 73H X 53.3W X 30 D 1/4 plate body 5/8 thick door 2200 ish pounds with triple step fire seal. I went dial lock. Yes they are big and cost a lot but for me its peace of mind.
 
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I went big Superior Untouchable 65 73H X 53.3W X 30 D 1/4 plate body 5/8 thick door 2200 ish pounds with triple step fire seal. I went dial lock. Yes they are big and cost a lot but for me its peace of mind
That’s a beast of a safe!
 
I have an AMSEC BF, and am very happy with it, but it is just a higher priced RSC......... open the door, and on the vertical door jamb there will be several stickers, one of them will say UL listed Resendtial Security Container...........not a real safe.
While it is a RSC by rating, it has a concrete/special mix that is poured between the inner and outer steel plates. In that mix, is carbide nuggets that help destroy grinders and other tools. The fully encompassing mix not only makes it harder to grind/drill, but provides much better heat resistance.

You can't really compare the BF with other conventional RSC's. And they weight a shitload making them harder to move and tip/pry.

You can also order them with a 4 GA plate added around it for even more skookum.

Its not a TL safe, but they are closer to a real safe then most of the tin cans on the market.

UL ratings are fucked anyway its either TL rated or RSC. Nothing in between and that is a huge gap. A TL30x6 Safe the size of a small gun safe would be like $8K+, there are a few on the market but you pay for them. It would also weigh atleast 4000 lbs. Really overkill for most guns and they still wont survive a fire like a RSC.

Used GSA rated containers are also another good option for price/protection.

Insurance is ALWAYS the #1 line of defense.
 
Buy the largest safe you can afford from liberty.
Keep it simple with a mechanical dial.
Bolt/anchor it down.
 
Compare steel thickness. Study is better than liberty dollar for dollar. Definitely bolt down and use good anchors into concrete. Protect the sides by orienting it the right way in a good basement corner preferably against a foundation.
 
It's worth asking any jewelers in your area if anyone is letting go of a safe. I picked up a monster of a TL30 for $1500 a few years ago that way. It's not set up for guns by that's easy enough to alter. Granted you'll need a helluva truck and safe jacks or a good pallet jack to move the sucker. We used a friends flatbed tow truck and a lot of muscle to get it done but my clients guns are as safe as I can reasonably protect them now.
 
It's worth asking any jewelers in your area if anyone is letting go of a safe. I picked up a monster of a TL30 for $1500 a few years ago that way. It's not set up for guns by that's easy enough to alter. Granted you'll need a helluva truck and safe jacks or a good pallet jack to move the sucker. We used a friends flatbed tow truck and a lot of muscle to get it done but my clients guns are as safe as I can reasonably protect them now.
Great idea!
 
Compare steel thickness. Study is better than liberty dollar for dollar. Definitely bolt down and use good anchors into concrete. Protect the sides by orienting it the right way in a good basement corner preferably against a foundation.
Doesnt mean shit when A $50 angle grinder can open both up in same ammount of time.
 
No it doesnt. With a decent blade it cuts through 1/4 as fast as 1/2 plate. takes less that 5 mins to open either.

7ga is like .17 inches...it aint shit
 
Are you autistic?

Both take less than 5 mins to peel like a tuna can. It's irellevent.

It's spelled "irrelevant".

I'm just gonna put all my stuff in a tool chest, same thing right?

Also, most people with autism are a hell of a lot smarter than you or me.
 
I'm looking at getting a gun safe, and right now have my eyes on a Liberty Franklin 25. I have four bolt guns with scopes and bipods, a couple ar15's and some pistols. A 25 (30" width) would fit perfectly where I want to put it, but could go up to the 40 model (36" width) if needed.

The Franklin 25 is around ~$2k. Is there any other safes I should be considering, for that price range and size?
Like most have said get the biggest one that you can afford.
I own a Canon and and other types as well...
Never hurts to have dogs, motion activated HD cams and a real violent attitude towards those who wish you ill, lol.
Take care
 
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I went big Superior Untouchable 65 73H X 53.3W X 30 D 1/4 plate body 5/8 thick door 2200 ish pounds with triple step fire seal. I went dial lock. Yes they are big and cost a lot but for me its peace of mind.
i have a Superior Untouchable 55 , searched for 2 months when i originally was going to get a fatboy. went to a Nashville safe store and realized that Superior was a tremendous value and my valuables inside would not be scorched or melted like some other safes. Ft knox was # 2 on list to get . the inside of Browning safes are top notch but the rest isnt for the price. Buy big as you can . i have 4 and Superior is great value. had it delivered and installed from over 200 miles away -greta price and service
 
I am under the impression, from my research not first-hand experience, that Sturdy is a pretty good step-up from Liberty and the like.

Any opinion?


This is where I ended up earlier this year, went with a Sturdy Safe. Doesn't have the higher end ratings, but you can increase the steal thickness where it matters (mostly), and they use the preferred dial locks compared to other brands.

C&S was spot-on, delivered at the very end of their estimated window.
 
Buy the largest safe you can afford from liberty.
Keep it simple with a mechanical dial.
Bolt/anchor it down.
My Liberty is 25 years old, has moved from Kentucky to Detroit to Texas, and now resides in North Carolina. It fell on two young and dumb studs who thought they could handle the weight. Wrecked the first guy’s leg, scared the second guy so bad he needed clean diapers. The S&G dial combination lock is slick, and no batteries needed. Purchase and install a nice, long Goldenrod before you install it, or suffer rust. Bolt the thing into concrete,or lag bolt it through the floor with some reinforcements under the floor. I put mine in its own closet, which is alarmed and dead bolted. The purpose of the Liberty is to slow down the drug addicted thieves looking for quick money, and to keep my NFA goodies away from prying eyes or sticky fingers. The purpose of my two Doberman Pinschers is to remove a few chunks of said thieves body parts. I have Personal Property Insurance so that if someone gets past the Dobies, gets through the doors and locks, and gets the Liberty open, then escapes within the two-minute police response to the alarm in my neighborhood, State Farm will give me enough money to buy some newer, mo better stuff.
Place whichever gun safe you get in a place where it cannot be seen from an exterior window or an open garage door. Texas thieves are good at the “back into the garage door, which folds like cardboard, tie a wrecker chain around the safe and drag the safe down the road at the end of the wrecker hoist, with a tarp wrapped around it for concealment” trick.
It is for some reason extremely difficult to find all of those so-called “honest” men who we need to keep “honest”. Scumbags are usually found in multiples everywhere you travel, and love to steal our goodies. Supposedly, we ain’t supposed to shoot the scumbags for thieving, but if they have one of my toys in their hands, self-defense rules, since all my toys stay loaded at all times👹
 
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Just got mine installed over the weekend. It took 4 of us to get it in the house. Reinforced the floor with a jack support beam in the basement.
 

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My Liberty is 25 years old, has moved from Kentucky to Detroit to Texas, and now resides in North Carolina. It fell on two young and dumb studs who thought they could handle the weight. Wrecked the first guy’s leg, scared the second guy so bad he needed clean diapers. The S&G dial combination lock is slick, and no batteries needed. Purchase and install a nice, long Goldenrod before you install it, or suffer rust. Bolt the thing into concrete,or lag bolt it through the floor with some reinforcements under the floor. I put mine in its own closet, which is alarmed and dead bolted. The purpose of the Liberty is to slow down the drug addicted thieves looking for quick money, and to keep my NFA goodies away from prying eyes or sticky fingers. The purpose of my two Doberman Pinschers is to remove a few chunks of said thieves body parts. I have Personal Property Insurance so that if someone gets past the Dobies, gets through the doors and locks, and gets the Liberty open, then escapes within the two-minute police response to the alarm in my neighborhood, State Farm will give me enough money to buy some newer, mo better stuff.
Place whichever gun safe you get in a place where it cannot be seen from an exterior window or an open garage door. Texas thieves are good at the “back into the garage door, which folds like cardboard, tie a wrecker chain around the safe and drag the safe down the road at the end of the wrecker hoist, with a tarp wrapped around it for concealment” trick.
It is for some reason extremely difficult to find all of those so-called “honest” men who we need to keep “honest”. Scumbags are usually found in multiples everywhere you travel, and love to sain’t supposed to shoot the scumbags for thieving, but if they have one of my toys in their hands, self-defense rules, since all my toys stay loaded at all times👹
I'm a little confused with your reply to my post... my post was pro liberty safes and pro mechanical s&g dial and I also recommended bolting/securing the safe down. Why are you telling me why or what you do with your safe? lol
 
I agree 100%. First thing I would do is rip out their shitty shelves and install something different.
look at Browning safes with the AXIS system in then. I can move shelves all kind of different locations.
 
Sturdy safes are excellent safes, I'd highly recommend them. They have plenty of options to fit your budget. Check out their vids on their website of them trying to break into their safes and others with the same method.
 
100% agree on good heavy quality safes , 25 years ago a cheap 89$ Stack On safe saved my guns from day time thieves , I got lucky .
Here some great advice, make sure you keep your safes manufacturing papers that include date of manufacture and serial number in another location. That tells you where the drilling points are on your safe if they damage it so it won’t open. I think Liberty has about 10 different types that change monthly
 
ai own several safes but my Cannon 46-48 gun safe if I remember correctly...
It seems to be built well, what do you all know about any tests/weaknesses of them.
They are $999.99 at Tractor Supply