• Watch Out for Scammers!

    We've now added a color code for all accounts. Orange accounts are new members, Blue are full members, and Green are Supporters. If you get a message about a sale from an orange account, make sure you pay attention before sending any money!

LRP-07 inconsistent accuracy

timelinex

Gunny Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
  • May 7, 2011
    1,381
    31
    Scottsdale,Az
    Alright guys, I'm about to go crazy over my new rifle. I have an LRP-07H which is the 18" version on the lrp07 with light barrel.

    The issue I'm having is that I'm getting inconsistent accuracy out of this thing. One day I will go to the range and I will be shooting the best groups I have ever shot with any rifle consistently. I'm talking about .15"-.35" 3 shot groups several times in a row. Then the next day I'll go to the range and I can't get anything under an inch and some groups have a flier so far, I can't tell which shot is in which group (2+ inches)!

    I know everyone has good and bad days, but this isn't it. On my other rifles, on bad days I might shoot closer to 3/4 moa and on good days all .5moa or better. NEVER anything over an 1" (when from a nice prone position and taking my time obviously).

    I have tried to give the rifle a thorough cleaning, I have tried to run it dirty, I have tried to use more lube and less lube. I initially put on a JP enterprises thermal dissipator, so I have tried to take that on and off. I have tried to shoot slower and faster. I have checked all scope mounting screws and used different scopes. I have used it with my suppressor and without my supressor (on good days it shoots just as tight with suppressor and on bad days it shoots just as bad with it). I have not been able to find any rhyme or reason!

    All this has been shot with the same lot 175smk FGMM, so the ammo is consistent between outings.

    This is just a couple examples that I could find on my computer that I documented. Heres from some good days:

    5-29-14lrpfgmm_zpsee14e57f.jpg


    5-25-14_zps4a7f66ab.jpg


    1_zpsca57b54c.jpg


    (that last image had 2 single shots for me trying to foul barrel without suppressor and then with suppressor)

    As you can see, Almost all the groups are in the .5's or way less! This isn't me cherry picking either. I can find the full pictures somewhere on the phone if you guys want, I just usually crop the photo to the shots when I transfer to the computer.

    Now look at a target from today:

    20140621_183524_zpsba71a320.jpg


    I could only find the picture from today, but I've had more than a few outings with exactly these results!

    Any advice? I'm going crazy here! What else can I check?
     
    Last edited:
    I think if you are using the same components...same load data and your range time is pretty consistent on temp you might have something coming loose with eather your optics or mounts. try taking your brass that you shot those good groups and load them again. Check every bullets ojivei to see if there consistent and eliminate any of your hand loading inconsistencies . Something is moving maybe even your bipod or bench.

    You have a Laser there...stay with it you will get to the root of it...I smell an optic issue too.

    what targets are those...looks like a very good design target.
     
    Last edited:
    I think if you are using the same components...same load data and your range time is pretty consistent on temp you might have something coming loose with eather your optics or mounts. try taking your brass that you shot those good groups and load them again. Check every bullets ojivei to see if there consistent and eliminate any of your hand loading inconsistencies . Something is moving maybe even your bipod or bench.

    You have a Laser there...stay with it you will get to the root of it...I smell an optic issue too.

    what targets are those...looks like a very good design target.

    I believe he stated all rounds were 175 FGMM, same lot too.
     
    I believe he stated all rounds were 175 FGMM, same lot too.

    Your right i missed that. I would hand load a good recipe and eliminate a problem if there is an issue. I only hand load so its much easer to pin down any problems. Also if you have another optic try it and and see if thats your problem.
     
    Last edited:
    I think if you are using the same components...same load data and your range time is pretty consistent on temp you might have something coming loose with eather your optics or mounts. try taking your brass that you shot those good groups and load them again. Check every bullets ojivei to see if there consistent and eliminate any of your hand loading inconsistencies . Something is moving maybe even your bipod or bench.

    You have a Laser there...stay with it you will get to the root of it...I smell an optic issue too.

    what targets are those...looks like a very good design target.

    All of its been same lot FGMM.

    I've been having trouble finding a load too.....This issue isn't helping. I'm using
    175smk
    SBS brass (LC brass equivalent)
    varget
    CCI br2 primers

    I've done OCW at 43.5-44.5, then one at 43.0-44 and one at 41.8-43 .

    I came up with nothing all three times because even when something looked promising, loading them up and taking it back to the range and it would do horrible. So its been impossible to find load. I've been lowering the charges on the OCW just because for some reason some of the primers would blow out.... I'm not sure if its because of the loads being too hot or the brass since the pockets were swagged to remove crimp. Regardless, I kept lowering the charge each subsequent time, but its not possible to find a load with an inconsistent rifle.

    The temperature outside has all been between 85 and 110 degrees, so its definitely HOT outside, but it doesn't effect any of my other rifles.


    I have had 2 other optics on there before and the current one is brand new vortex viper PST. The only thing I have not changed is the rings. They are ARC m10 rings that I won on here in a raffle a while back. They are torqued to spec(50in/lb bottom and 40ish in/lb top bolt), and supposedly they are a quality(and expensive) company, so I wouldn't think that they are he problem right?

    As far as the targets go, its just something I came up with. I was sick of all the available targets online. I've went through a couple iterations trying to improve visibility and such. The cubes are a 1/4", the black inside is 1/2 inch, then 1 inch then 2 inch. The tiny cubes make your groups seem alot bigger than they are, but on the other hand its really convenient to eyeball how far off you are, make adjustments, estimate group size and etc.... If you like it, let me know and I'll PM you a copy of it.

    Is there something else on the rifle that I can check torque or spec on? I'm not to savvy when it comes to the ar10 platform.
     
    Last edited:
    I just realized that some people are recommending the torque on the rings to be 65 in/lb on all screws and not the 50in/lb bottom and 40in/lb top that I've been using. Could this possibly be the reason? 40in/lb seems liek it should be enough to hold it in place. Why would it be fine one day and not the next. Also, I feel like it would drift towards one direction, not all over the place.
     
    All of its been same lot FGMM.

    I've been having trouble finding a load too.....This issue isn't helping. I'm using
    175smk
    SBS brass (LC brass equivalent)
    varget
    CCI br2 primers

    I've done OCW at 43.5-44.5, then one at 43.0-44 and one at 41.8-43 .

    I came up with nothing all three times because even when something looked promising, loading them up and taking it back to the range and it would do horrible. So its been impossible to find load. I've been lowering the charges on the OCW just because for some reason some of the primers would blow out.... I'm not sure if its because of the loads being too hot or the brass since the pockets were swagged to remove crimp. Regardless, I kept lowering the charge each subsequent time, but its not possible to find a load with an inconsistent rifle.

    The temperature outside has all been between 85 and 110 degrees, so its definitely HOT outside, but it doesn't effect any of my other rifles.


    I have had 2 other optics on there before and the current one is brand new vortex viper PST. The only thing I have not changed is the rings. They are ARC m10 rings that I won on here in a raffle a while back. They are torqued to spec, and supposedly they are a quality(and expensive) company, so I wouldn't think that they are he problem right?

    As far as the targets go, its just something I came up with. I was sick of all the available targets online. I've went through a couple iterations trying to improve visibility and such. The cubes are a 1/4", the black inside is 1/2 inch, then 1 inch then 2 inch. The tiny cubes make your groups seem alot bigger than they are, but on the other hand its really convenient to eyeball how far off you are and estimate group size and etc.... If you like it, let me know and I'll PM you a copy of it.

    Im a firm believer in good quality consistent ammo is your basis to accuracy coming from a background in bench rest shooting. I know you have a an incredible rifle from one of the best if not the best companies bar none so a big part has been eliminated...not to say JP is perfect but damm near in there builds. I just bought a SCR-11 Grendel and will order a LRP-07 very soon. Your rifle would not print those good groups on and off if it was at fault...If it was in my opinion right out of the gate it would not shoot if your problem was with it. Make sure nothing is loose with barrel barrel nut ext ect. I still feel like your ammo might be the issue. New brass will make a difference if you load consistently...If you have a trusted optic that shoots Bugholes and is high magnification try using one or borrow one. There were many factors come into play but I still feel that you have a smoking rifle there capable of little bitty groups.

    yes plz PM me with a copy of your target thank you.
     
    Ammo. Are you double checking your powder weights? What has helped me big time is getting a chrono(magnetospeed v3). The numbers don't lie.
     
    How do I check the barrel nut? Do I need a special tool? It's not the ammo guys. It's all the same lot of fgmm. I understand fgmm isn't as accurate as reloads but there is no reason it would be great one day and not the next.. It's consistent enough to either always be atleast good. Even my savage always shoots it under moa, closer to . 75
     
    It's not the rifle. There's no variable to the rifle. Either it shoots good groups or it doesnt. It can't change from one day to the next on its own and for no reason.

    If the accuracy degraded while you shot it then I'd think rifle. As the parts got hotter and expanded tolerances change.

    But to shoot lights out one day and then go to crap the next day for no reason.....doesn't make sense.


    I would remove the biggest variable first.

    You.

    I know you don't think it's you and you're obviously capable of shooting really good groups....but of all the components involved, the shooter is the most likely to change from day to day.
     
    Either it's shooter or stress in the barrel. Likely shooter.
    As far as ring torque...are you seeing and sliding or movement marks on scope body? Also try single feeding all rounds into the chamber, no mag. use, when things go apeshit on paper. This may tell us something.

    And make sure the neck area in the chamber is clean. This could cause pressure variances and sling rounds.
     
    First question first..... Is this your first semi auto rifle? When you say "other rifles you own and shoot" are they all bolt actions?
     
    It's not the rifle. There's no variable to the rifle. Either it shoots good groups or it doesnt. It can't change from one day to the next on its own and for no reason.

    If the accuracy degraded while you shot it then I'd think rifle. As the parts got hotter and expanded tolerances change.

    But to shoot lights out one day and then go to crap the next day for no reason.....doesn't make sense.


    I would remove the biggest variable first.

    You.

    I know you don't think it's you and you're obviously capable of shooting really good groups....but of all the components involved, the shooter is the most likely to change from day to day.

    This....AND...
    Would also suggest you try another scope and mount combo, just to be on the safe side.
     
    I just realized that some people are recommending the torque on the rings to be 65 in/lb on all screws and not the 50in/lb bottom and 40in/lb top that I've been using. Could this possibly be the reason? 40in/lb seems liek it should be enough to hold it in place. Why would it be fine one day and not the next. Also, I feel like it would drift towards one direction, not all over the place.

    65in/lbs is fairly common for the 5/16" nuts (1/2" socket) on the base. However, 40in/lbs seems a little high to me for the small star/allen screws that clamp the tube. I've not seen a ring mfg recommend a torque that high. I would back that off to 20-25 in/lbs. You may be putting ring marks on it or compressing the tube depending on what optic you are running. Post photos of your rifle and optics!

    Also, is it shifting from day to day or during shooting strings? If this is your first real 308 type gas gun, little things matter. You can get away with a lot more bad form shooting a bolt gun than you can with a gas gun. Your cheek weld, the way you are pulling the trigger, bipod loading, etc., have to be much more consistent that just slinging lead with a bolt gun. Heck my 8 year old shot an 840 yard 66% IPSC this past weekend with my bolt gun. His form is tough because he's not big enough to get the gun in his shoulder pocket, etc...but shooting a 308 gas gun would have not netted the same results.

    Get a very solid zero, drop the rifle hard on the buttstock a few times, bang on the scope bell with the palm of your hand a few times, check your zero. If it shifts you have an optic issue. Assuming the rifle is put together well, it isn't possible for it to shoot great, then suck, then shoot great, then suck. If using the same components/lots of brass, bullets, powder, primers, etc. Loaded accurately they should shoot similar.
     
    Last edited:
    I see where Elfster is going with this and I tend to agree. Semi auto rifles are a real bitch to shoot accurately and consistently. They are very unforgiving in any technique flaw, especially any movement or flinch after the trigger is pulled.

    Personally, I can lay down a sub .5 MOA group in my AX with no effort, and if I really concentrate, I can shoot quarter MOA groups with good consistency. My SR-25 will produce .6 MOA groups when my technique is 100%, but it takes only one real small screwup to throw that group out to 2".

    Personally, I find semi auto precision rifles to be very frustrating, but also very challenging in a good way. I feel like the last year I've spent chasing consistent accuracy over the course of thousands of rounds has made me a better shooter.

    It still hasn't made me a shooter that can pull out a consistent performance out of my .308 gasser.

    Best of luck to you,

    -Bob
     
    65in/lbs is fairly common for the 5/16" nuts (1/2" socket) on the base. However, 40in/lbs seems a little high to me for the small star/allen screws that clamp the tube. I've not seen a ring mfg recommend a torque that high. I would back that off to 20-25 in/lbs. You may be putting ring marks on it or compressing the tube depending on what optic you are running. Post photos of your rifle and optics.

    I agree with ^^^^^. I think you are putting way to much torque on your rings perhaps causing problems. i have never used more than 20 " lbs on any of my rings and never had a scope move,
     
    I see where Elfster is going with this and I tend to agree. Semi auto rifles are a real bitch to shoot accurately and consistently. They are very unforgiving in any technique flaw, especially any movement or flinch after the trigger is pulled.

    Personally, I can lay down a sub .5 MOA group in my AX with no effort, and if I really concentrate, I can shoot quarter MOA groups with good consistency. My SR-25 will produce .6 MOA groups when my technique is 100%, but it takes only one real small screwup to throw that group out to 2".

    Personally, I find semi auto precision rifles to be very frustrating, but also very challenging in a good way. I feel like the last year I've spent chasing consistent accuracy over the course of thousands of rounds has made me a better shooter.

    It still hasn't made me a shooter that can pull out a consistent performance out of my .308 gasser.

    Best of luck to you,

    -Bob

    Very well put!

    Even the highest quality large platform gas rifles are challenging to shoot to their max accuracy capability on a consistent basis. There are a lot of things that are going on with the recoil impulse (vs bolt) and if you're not at the top of your game re fundamentals, it's very easy to print a 2-3moa group or have a seemingly unexplained "flyer". As tempting and convenient it is to blame the rifle, it is almost certainly shooter. That is one reason you see so few gas guns at major matches. They are simply less forgiving and more challenging to shoot to their peak accuracy potential.

    I'm a pretty big JP homer. Got a bunch of them and love 'em all. When I'm having "one of those days" with my LRP07 I'll usually get a shooting buddy to put a quick group on paper at 100yds. More often than not, they go into one ragged hole and my poor form is exposed. That's been the case with the Armalites and SR-25's I've had too. Nature of the beast.

    To the OP, congrats on your stick! Keep working with it and don't get frustrated!
     
    I believe 40 in/lbs on the top screws (assuming you're speaking of the screws on top of your rings) seems to be quite a bit. I think I have 18 in mine, IIRC?

    As another poster suggested, have a buddy shoot the rifle for groups.

    From what folks have said, driving a gas gun is a bit different than a bolt gun, but the LRP seems to be forgiving in that regard...
     
    If its your first gas gun its probably you. They demand absolute perfection on follow through and trigger control. If you flinch, relax too earky, squeeze the trigger a bit differently it will show up on paper in a hurry. Too many moving parts.
     
    Alright guys, I'm picking up what you guys are dropping. I guess it must be me. This isn't my first semi, but it is my first semi bigger than 223.

    Can bad technique really throw rounds 2+ inches that often?? The reason I ruled out me, is only because it just seems like 2moa+ is rediculous, considering it's from a steady prone position.... On my bolt guns I can probably cross my feet, go support side, muscle the rifle and slap the trigger, but still get better groups than 2 inches as long as the rifle is in prone and steady. The only times I've ever had really bad groups with my other rifles, it was always either the ammo or something loose with the scope or rifle. But that was with bolt rifles. If it's fairly common for a semi to shoot that bad at the first hint of bad technique, then it is what it is. I'll go back to practicing!


    As far as torque on the rings goes, it's straight for the website:
    http://www.americanrifle.com/M10-Scope-Rings.html

    50in/lb on all screws. After some research it seems like the owner tells people to even do 65in/lb
     
    Last edited:
    What I noticed in your "bad" groups is that your vertical dispersion was within .5 MOA or less in many of them, while the horizontal is the main area where things opened up.

    That is often a sign of significant winds, or your position, inconsistent trigger pull, inconsistent POA, something.

    If the barrel is shooting that tight consistently one day, then still shooting very tight vertical, something else is going on, not the gun. Even if the JP barrel nut came loose, they thermo-fit the barrel extension into the upper, so there is no barrel nut looseness issue here.

    Try this:

    When approaching the bench at the range, focus on the target. Align your entire position to the target. The gun should be as dialed in to the Natural Point of Aim as possible before you even touch it, especially with a rear bag, bipod, or some type of front rest. Take a deep breath slowly, release it slowly, and settle your biological rhythms down (heart rate, breathing).

    Settle gun by shaking it in a manner that simulates the recoil, then check your NPOA. Repeat this until you have a good feeling about the position. Then begin your dry-fire drills, calling each shot.

    Position
    Sight Alignment and Sight Picture centered dead in the smallest center of the target
    Breath Control
    Hold Control
    Trigger slowly straight to the rear
    Follow-through by maintaining a great sight picture throughout the process of taking the shot, call the shot

    Judging by your vertical dispersion on the bad day, I'm leaning towards solid rifle, and either environmental or shooter inconsistencies/maybe a little of both.

    Also, the amount of torque applied to your rings is unusually high. Scope tubes don't do well with that type of compression, and usually only require no more than 25 inch pounds at the most.
     
    Last edited:
    As far as torque on the rings goes, it's straight for the website:
    M10 Scope Rings

    50in/lb on all screws. After some research it seems like the owner tells people to even do 65in/lb

    That's torque for the ring attachment to the base. The specs I've seen from most ring and scope companies is 15-18 inch pounds of torque for the caps that attach the scope to the rings. Most people tend to considerably over tighten the cap screws.
     
    Alright guys, I'm picking up what you guys are dropping. I guess it must be me. This isn't my first semi, but it is my first semi bigger than 223.

    Can bad technique really throw rounds 2+ inches that often?? The reason I ruled out me, is only because it just seems like 2moa+ is rediculous, considering it's from a steady prone position....

    It sure can! Don't sweat it brother. Even the very best shooters deal with the issue to a greater or lesser extent. In addition to the recoil that is present with a bolt rifle, you have that big, heavy bolt slamming in and out of battery to deal with. And yes, it's a much bigger issue with the large platform than 223. Follow through is HUGELY important.

    It's more difficult for me when I try to shoot a bolt rifle and gas rifle back and forth a lot. Easier to cope with when shooting the gasser exclusively. As with most things, practice and more experience with the blaster will help:)
     
    Among other things, my company does battlefield weapons R&D for a living. As we are not currently site sponsors, I don't want to appear as though we are soliciting business. I will provide some feedback pro bono based on things we've seen and ask that you do not PM me concerning this subject. I think that way we can help without violating forum rules.

    1. Give JP call and talk things over with him. Even if our sons didn't grow up together for a while and go to the same school; I'd still say he's a "stand up" guy that really stands behind his products.

    2. Check with both the scope and ring manufacturers for their preferred torque specs.

    a. For rings, I've see specs that included figures for whether the ring drive nuts were dry, used with Loctite, or waxed.

    b. The torque range we've probably seen the most for rings are 18-22 in/lb but also as low as 14-20 in/lb.

    c. To be on the safe side, I'd send the scope back to the manufacturer for a clean bill of health.

    Disclaimer: As always, it's your gear so don't rely on anyone other the the manufacturer to provide the correct operations and/or performance specs.


    "The only think new is the history you don't know".

    Sent from my iPad
     
    Is the round that is opening up your groups the most always the last one from the magazine? Not just the last shot, but the last in the magazine resulting in an empty mag thereafter? I have this issue with my large frame AR, and have been advised (by professional instructors) that changes in bolt tilt with an empty mag sitting under the bolt contribute to this.
     
    That's torque for the ring attachment to the base. The specs I've seen from most ring and scope companies is 15-18 inch pounds of torque for the caps that attach the scope to the rings. Most people tend to considerably over tighten the cap screws.

    65 in/lb on all screws,top and bottom, is directly from the owner of the company. Check it out, he even posted about it on SH:

    http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...e-co-new-rings-qd-mounts-m10.html#post1592640

    Believe me, all my other rings I do 20 in/lb, so I realize its unusually high. But when the manufacturer recommends a specific torque setting, what do you do! Thats why I stopped at 40 in/lb, because I felt like any more could be dangerous!

    Is the round that is opening up your groups the most always the last one from the magazine? Not just the last shot, but the last in the magazine resulting in an empty mag thereafter? I have this issue with my large frame AR, and have been advised (by professional instructors) that changes in bolt tilt with an empty mag sitting under the bolt contribute to this.

    Unfortunately not, it's not consistently the first or last round. Also, I have shot 5 shot groups with similar good and bad.

    What I noticed in your "bad" groups is that your vertical dispersion was within .5 MOA or less in many of them, while the horizontal is the main area where things opened up.

    That is often a sign of significant winds, or your position, inconsistent trigger pull, inconsistent POA, something.

    If the barrel is shooting that tight consistently one day, then still shooting very tight vertical, something else is going on, not the gun. Even if the JP barrel nut came loose, they thermo-fit the barrel extension into the upper, so there is no barrel nut looseness issue here.

    Try this:

    When approaching the bench at the range, focus on the target. Align your entire position to the target. The gun should be as dialed in to the Natural Point of Aim as possible before you even touch it, especially with a rear bag, bipod, or some type of front rest. Take a deep breath slowly, release it slowly, and settle your biological rhythms down (heart rate, breathing).

    Settle gun by shaking it in a manner that simulates the recoil, then check your NPOA. Repeat this until you have a good feeling about the position. Then begin your dry-fire drills, calling each shot.

    Position
    Sight Alignment and Sight Picture centered dead in the smallest center of the target
    Breath Control
    Hold Control
    Trigger slowly straight to the rear
    Follow-through by maintaining a great sight picture throughout the process of taking the shot, call the shot

    Judging by your vertical dispersion on the bad day, I'm leaning towards solid rifle, and either environmental or shooter inconsistencies/maybe a little of both.

    Also, the amount of torque applied to your rings is unusually high. Scope tubes don't do well with that type of compression, and usually only require no more than 25 inch pounds at the most.

    Your right about the vertical. Sometimes the groups are bad all around, but most of the time the bad groups are bad because of major horizontal dispersion.

    I'll go to the range again next week and really focus on not pushing a bad shot and NPA. I always try to do the best I can, but sometimes when your sitting in 105 degree weather , its easy to get impatient.

    I always have great follow through, but at times I know I can work on my stability. Its hard to get perfectly stable with this thing though, it seems like every rear bag I have is either too tall or too short(I've tried tab rectangle and cylinder bags, wedge bag, triad big wedge bag and a couple others).
     
    You can always tell when schools out for the summer.


    Both my LBC out shoot JPrifles for accuracy.
    But for run and gun (3gun) i would JP rifle.
    I've been shooting for 30 years.
    Have you shot a LBC for a year? I have shot it for 6 years. Secret 77 gr SMK 24gr reloder 15 Hornady, ;brass 2830 m.v.
    GMM primers.
    Some people have natural skill and one of them.
     
    Have you checked the comp. Seen several rifles act the same way, even some with baffle strikes, due to the carbon build up on the crown and in the first chamber. May not be your issue, but worth a look as some of the top 3gunners have run into the same issue with the same rifle and chased it for a while before they figured it out.
     
    Have you checked the comp. Seen several rifles act the same way, even some with baffle strikes, due to the carbon build up on the crown and in the first chamber. May not be your issue, but worth a look as some of the top 3gunners have run into the same issue with the same rifle and chased it for a while before they figured it out.

    ^^^^ This may be worth looking into.
     
    You would be surprised how far off you can be compared to the same errors shooting a bolt action. There are a lot of moving parts carrying momentum and you need to follow through and drive that thing till the bullet has exited the barrel.

    I know 2 inches sounds like a lot but consider this. I had the same issue with a bolt gun, turned out to be a quick release scope mount that was the culprit. Looking at it, even grabbing the scope and mount and looking for play yielded nothing. Seemed fine. Put the scope back in rings, instant half minute rifle again. The point of the story being it takes very little movement of the muzzle to toss the impact an inch or two 100yds down range.

    FGMM isn't the Holy Grail either. Just because its accurate in many guns doesn't mean it will be in yours.
     
    Both my LBC out shoot JPrifles for accuracy.
    But for run and gun (3gun) i would JP rifle.
    I've been shooting for 30 years.
    Have you shot a LBC for a year? I have shot it for 6 years. Secret 77 gr SMK 24gr reloder 15 Hornady, ;brass 2830 m.v.
    GMM primers.
    Some people have natural skill and one of them.

    Hey Buck Rogers,

    Thank you for your thoughtful contribution to this thread. This whole discussion has been with regard to the OP's issues with his large platform AR. Nothing at all to do with your Les Bear and 77gr SMK load.

    When school starts back again, please let your teacher know you need extra help with Reading For Comprehension. Based on the stupid shit you've posted here and on other threads you would benefit from the remedial work.
     
    Hey Buck Rogers,

    Thank you for your thoughtful contribution to this thread. This whole discussion has been with regard to the OP's issues with his large platform AR. Nothing at all to do with your Les Bear and 77gr SMK load.

    When school starts back again, please let your teacher know you need extra help with Reading For Comprehension. Based on the stupid shit you've posted here and on other threads you would benefit from the remedial work.

    Hahahah good one.
     
    Hey Buck Rogers,

    Thank you for your thoughtful contribution to this thread. This whole discussion has been with regard to the OP's issues with his large platform AR. Nothing at all to do with your Les Bear and 77gr SMK load.

    When school starts back again, please let your teacher know you need extra help with Reading For Comprehension. Based on the stupid shit you've posted here and on other threads you would benefit from the remedial work.

    How many days a week do YOU shoot ?? I shoot three days a week every week ! You dont know me. Sounds like a lot of you people just cant shoot. Oh yea btw I'm fucking $rich$ bitch! So go to bed , you have to work tomorrow.
    And i will be testing a AR15T. Your pissed off now :)
     
    That DVD that comes with your JP rifle....that's the most retarded DVD i ever saw!!
     
    Have you checked the comp. Seen several rifles act the same way, even some with baffle strikes, due to the carbon build up on the crown and in the first chamber. May not be your issue, but worth a look as some of the top 3gunners have run into the same issue with the same rifle and chased it for a while before they figured it out.

    I replaced the comp with a thunderbeast brake for my 338BA suppressor. It hasn't had too many rounds through it, so it doesn't have build up.

    Which by the way, the suppressor REALLY shits up entire rifle insides within a few rounds!
     
    Timelinex - do you have one of Chuck's IOTAs? http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...6789-i-o-t-indoor-optical-training-aid-6.html I think there is a lot to learn from these. Same deal as your .22, if the reticle moves or even wiggles at the moment the shot is broken you know that you are imparting a force vector into the equation that should not be there.

    Secondly LRRP had a great post on position. The only thing I will add to that: for me and esp with a stock that doesn't have an adj comb height, once I am settled behind the gun, confident that I am square (hips and shoulders) to the target, muzzle in line with my shoulder pocket and directly in line with the target; I look over the E turret and find the center of the target in the distance and the center of the E turret. I take a deep breath and as I exhale it is as if I am putting my head under water - I slowly sink directly in line with the center of the E turret until I am centered behind the optic. As I am sinking, when I first start to feel my cheek on the stock, I mentally draw a line from that connection point through the center if my eye (if my cheek + eye + center of E turret don't line up, I start over). Once I know My cheek is centered and I sink to the the center of the optic I confirm that I have no dark edges and that I can see the reticle evenly in all 4 directions. I try to commit the level of pressure I feel on my cheek against the stock to memory and during the string I force myself to confirm that I am still centered (I have a habit of continuing to sink as I go deeper into the string, I have bad habit of imparting too much check pressure when mounting the gun under a time constraint as well). I mention this as we're talking about vertical dispersion.


    My my hat is off to those that can squeeze consistent accuracy out of a large frame AR.
     
    Last edited:
    How many days a week do YOU shoot ?? I shoot three days a week every week ! You dont know me. Sounds like a lot of you people just cant shoot. Oh yea btw I'm fucking $rich$ bitch! So go to bed , you have to work tomorrow.
    And i will be testing a AR15T. Your pissed off now :)

    You have no idea... not one clue, just how much of a oxygen thief you are.

    It would almost be funny if you weren't such a angry little turd.

    Now run along and go suck start your favorite toy.
     
    Maybe you should spend some of that time in a remedial English course.

    Your Grammer sucks.

    Secondly, Jon Paul not only builds one of the nicest gas guns on the market, he is a true gentleman and a huge supporter of the sport. His professionalism, sportsmanship, generosity and the quality of his product is beyond reproach.

    So please stop shitting on this man's thread if you have nothing useful to contribute.


    How many days a week do YOU shoot ?? I shoot three days a week every week ! You dont know me. Sounds like a lot of you people just cant shoot. Oh yea btw I'm fucking $rich$ bitch! So go to bed , you have to work tomorrow.
    And i will be testing a AR15T. Your pissed off now :)
     
    I hope not. I am saving up for a lrp 07 with one.

    Extended barrel life and ability to put more rounds through the gun in a short period of time is very worth while no matter what some random person (hater) says in a thread. Try taking that cooling finned block off of your personal computer and see how well it works. Its not rocket science, heat dissipation makes a difference all around.
     
    Hadn't seen it mentioned, but are you shooting from bipod or bags? If bipod is not loaded consistently, I've seen variation in my own results, to the point I really try to load same way every time, but bench to prone might affect POI, as the pressure you apply on cement and on ground can vary. Would expect similar results if not approaching the bags with a duplicate hold every time.
     
    How many days a week do YOU shoot ?? I shoot three days a week every week ! You dont know me. Sounds like a lot of you people just cant shoot. Oh yea btw I'm fucking $rich$ bitch! So go to bed , you have to work tomorrow.
    And i will be testing a AR15T. Your pissed off now :)

    1. Anyone who has a lot of money doesn't usually go telling every one about it... Unless their a trust fund baby trying to solicit a hooker.
    2. Blowing your load to internet porn doesn't count as shooting.
    3. Telling others to "go to bed" when you're probably up past your bed time... Ironic?
    4. You're still Gay...
     
    LV 426-
    Not usually inspired to join the fray, but this thread and the OP's inquiry has nothing to do with you, and shouldn't, as you bring nothing to the table.
    It's a long road to wisdom, and a short one to being ignored. Take it as it is.
     
    1. Anyone who has a lot of money doesn't usually go telling every one about it... Unless their a trust fund baby trying to solicit a hooker.
    2. Blowing your load to internet porn doesn't count as shooting.
    3. Telling others to "go to bed" when you're probably up past your bed time... Ironic?
    4. You're still Gay...

    I Dont have a bed time! Look up whats going on in ohio. Oil big time$$$$$
    And why do you think i am gay? You looking for a peace of ass. ? LMFAO
     
    Extended barrel life and ability to put more rounds through the gun in a short period of time is very worth while no matter what some random person (hater) says in a thread. Try taking that cooling finned block off of your personal computer and see how well it works. Its not rocket science, heat dissipation makes a difference all around.

    Who alse uses them???