Anyone out there have a good way to quicky lube a bunch of brass for resizing??? As opposed to standing each case up on loading blocks, spraying each loading block with spray lube and sizing one tray of fifty cases at a time???? Is there some type of "shake and bake" type lube that can be dumped in a bag and throw in 200-300 cases and shake it up and size???? There has to be a better way than as above or rolling 10 cases at a time over a lube soaked pad. Thanks in advance for any info or ideas.
- Thread starter msiebert
- Start date
Hornady One Shot
Gallon Freezer Bag
Spray, shake to coat and let dry for a couple minutes.
Gallon Freezer Bag
Spray, shake to coat and let dry for a couple minutes.
The problem with the freezer bag or any form of mass lubing is that you end up with lube on the shoulder which may result in dented shoulder when you re-size. I use imperial sizing die and lube one at a time, yes it is slow but Lapau brass is expensive and on that off chance a shoulder gets dented, the time expediency isnt worth mass lubing all my cases
There is a youtube video i saw a couple of days ago that i thought was genius he took ab 40-50 cases and put them in a ziplock container and sprayed them then shook them. did this a couple of times and then sized them. Ill try to see if i can find it.
If you're going to be doing a mass lubing, then the bag is a pretty good way to do it, or a shoe box type box. Just don't go spastic spraying it on and shake the box a bit.
Hydraulic denting occurs when the lube is lathered on. I've done the bag method quite a bit and it works fine, although for smaller batches I'll use Imperial or Case Lube II, both of which can be wiped off with a dry/damp cotton rag.
Chris
Ive never had an issue using the bag/one shot method. Its such a light film lubricant, it never builds up enough to cause a problem. I use liberal amounts of the stuff lubing each batch. Never seen a single dented shoulder. I hose the die down with it too. If you are worried about dents, swab the die every once in a while.
I got a plastic bin and I line the bottom with cases and spray with rcbs case lube. Roll em around, spray again. For the inside of the neck I put some some lube on a pad, and every second or third case I swirl the case mouth on the pad. It works for me.
Been using the One Shot and plastic bag method for years on literally tens of thousands of cases and never had a stuck case or a dented shoulder. The key is a good amount of One Shot and then to let the cases set for a minute or two to let the propellent dissipate.
For my bulk .223 reloads, I put about 250 in a gallon Zip-Loc bag and hose 'em down with One Shot for a good 2 second spray. Seal bag and shake 'em up. Repeat twice, dump in case feeder.
For precision stuff, Imperial. One at a time in the single stage. S L O W.
For precision stuff, Imperial. One at a time in the single stage. S L O W.
Sounds good...again, I only use imperial and never go over board on the lube. I have never tried One Shot or mass lubing for fear of denting a shoulder, but hey, if it makes loading a little faster, I am all for it.
I use an old box that a motherboard came in. Lay the brass down, shoot it with a few shots of Dillon lube, shake it around and go at it.
This except use Dillon Spray Lube (Lanolin & Alcohol), no stuck cases, ever. Resize and tumble clean.
This is what I do as well. The Dillon lube is slicker than Imperial wax.
I use one shot and spread em out in rows on a cookie sheet. Give em a spray, roll em over, another shot, let em sit, then size and clean the cases. You can get 150-200 243 sized cases on a sheet. 
Load up your case tray, and spray hornaday ONE SHOT on and in the case, super fast, and works great! The ONE SHOT will not contaminate powder or primer! Stuff is the real deal!
Too much lube and you WILL dent the shoulder of the case, due to clogging of the bleeder hole in the die
You will never dent a shoulder using One Shot spray lube. It doesn't matter if you soaked the case in it for hours, it still would not be enough on it when it dried to dent the shoulder.
Use your wax and go one at a time if you want, but don't let the chance of a dented shoulder hold you back. It's not gonna happen with One Shot Spray Lube. I've used the one at a time wax method and its a waste of time in my opinion.
Use your wax and go one at a time if you want, but don't let the chance of a dented shoulder hold you back. It's not gonna happen with One Shot Spray Lube. I've used the one at a time wax method and its a waste of time in my opinion.
Double Zipper Ziplock and Dillon lube... (I know I'm not the only one who has had the bag come open)
Been using both for over 15 years without a problem. The only dents I have ever gotten were from stray peices of walnut.
Been using both for over 15 years without a problem. The only dents I have ever gotten were from stray peices of walnut.
Thanks for all the info so far...I will try the ziplock bag thing this evening. I have to ask...Ivory Dish soap??? Actually works for case lube to resize brass rifle cases???? Also, exactly how do you "do up a few cases" with Imperial wax???? I have it and all I have ever done was get some on my fingers and rub the case around then size. I agree that Imperial will let you size the toughest out of whack cases that would normally stick with every other lube I have tried but I need to resize about 10,000 cases...massaging it on each case is not gonna get it....
Initial set up is time consuming but worth it. Go to local hardware store and buy a piece of pine shelving 10" x 4' x >.75
Measure out and drill as many 1/2 inch holes you can fit. There will be more than a few hundred. Line up hundreds of cases on board and spray with One Shot Lube. You can get 500 cases easily.
Measure out and drill as many 1/2 inch holes you can fit. There will be more than a few hundred. Line up hundreds of cases on board and spray with One Shot Lube. You can get 500 cases easily.
This is only with rifle rounds: Use 3/4" horse-hair artist's paint brush and lube wax. Set 10 cases down at a time, roll them as I brush wax on the neck, shoulder and top 1/2" of the casing. Sounds like a lot, but takes only 30 seconds. No stuck cases, no denting.
Hafta wipe it off but always did that with spray lube too. When I'm done with the load (308/338) I write down the bullet, grains powder and OAL on the case with a sharpie.
Hafta wipe it off but always did that with spray lube too. When I'm done with the load (308/338) I write down the bullet, grains powder and OAL on the case with a sharpie.
After 20 years of a messy case lube pad, I've switched to One Shot. The first time I tried it, I used the loading block and hated it. Too much mess on the bench top. I bought one of those cheap plastic shoe storage boxes at Target and use that now. Same concept as the Ziploc, spray-shake-spray-dry, but no worries about the bag leaking or breaking. 100 308 cases take about 30 seconds to lube.
Rob01,
Have you ever had a problem with the lube getting inside the case and contaminating the powder ?
No that's the good part about One Shot. It won't contaminate primers or powder so no worries in spraying it all over. After sizing my precision rifle brass I usually throw it in the tumbler for 30 minutes anyways.
I will try it as soon as I can...it is certainly cheap enough. Special spray lubes get a little on the expensive side when you have alot of cases to do..
I use a large cookie sheet, and put a piece ops sleeping pad 14x22 inches inside the cookie sheet. This gives me a giant case lube pad that accepts about 100 cases for 7.62x51 at a time without getting lube on the case shoulder.
I agree that you can only speed things up a certain amount if you wish to retain high quality. Otherwise, you sacrifice quality to get speed.
I don't like getting lube inside the case for fear of powder/primer contamination, so I don't use spray lube. I do speed things up in other areas by using a drill to run case trimmer, de-burrer, primer pocket cleaning. To remove lube I use rubbing alcohol on pieces of Rowell, and throw the cases into a large bag like a pillow case along with the alcohol soaked towell pieces. I roll the cases for a minute or so, and dump them out. The alcohol evaporates off lots faster than water does. And cases are ready to load.
I agree that you can only speed things up a certain amount if you wish to retain high quality. Otherwise, you sacrifice quality to get speed.
I don't like getting lube inside the case for fear of powder/primer contamination, so I don't use spray lube. I do speed things up in other areas by using a drill to run case trimmer, de-burrer, primer pocket cleaning. To remove lube I use rubbing alcohol on pieces of Rowell, and throw the cases into a large bag like a pillow case along with the alcohol soaked towell pieces. I roll the cases for a minute or so, and dump them out. The alcohol evaporates off lots faster than water does. And cases are ready to load.
The only way one shot has dented my case necks is when I get impatient and don't let it dry. Great stuff!
But I do think I will try ivory soap. It sounds promising.
Cookie sheet and a couple pieces of seaoned paper towel works for me. I like the idea of using a small peieve of sleeping pad in the cookie sheet, going to have to try that.
Yes you can too dent it with one shot... I have
I have an RCBS tumbler with the large barrels. I use one just for lubing my cases. Dump a bunch in and turn it on. Through the opening I spray Hornady One Shot. (Experience gives you a good idea how much you'll need.) Let it tumble for another couple minutes to evenly spread the lube and let it dry for an hour. I fill the long tubes I use with my Dillon 650 and crank away.
I've been doing it this way for several years with everything from .308 to .45ACP to .223 to (and so on) using both carbide and non-carbide dies. I have experienced no problems.
The nice part is that the lube dries and doesn't get into the powder, and it does not have to be removed.
Richard
I've been doing it this way for several years with everything from .308 to .45ACP to .223 to (and so on) using both carbide and non-carbide dies. I have experienced no problems.
The nice part is that the lube dries and doesn't get into the powder, and it does not have to be removed.
Richard
