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M1917 sporter good base for rifle build

DarKnight

Private
Minuteman
Oct 13, 2009
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43
Florida, USA
have an old m1917 30-06 in a nice sporter stock. I want to get into more precision shooting rather than just shooting cans.

is this a decent base to build on? i hear the rifle isnt worth much as far a classic value so wouldnt hurt to tap it.

or should i just start with a savage?

im on a tight budget so money is a factor
 
Re: M1917 sporter good base for rifle build

You are going to be sinking a ton of money into a disappointing pit. I am not trying to be harsh, but I have done it myself.

You might try buying a Savage, Remington, Howa or Winchester and start from there. You will be better satisfied with the results and still have your 1917 to plink with.
 
Re: M1917 sporter good base for rifle build

Nashlaw is completely right, there are a few things to be considered when looking at a 1917 or P14.

1.Are the ears ground off? If not they need to come off and finding someone that has done it at this late date is getting harder. Taking the ears off will make it look alot sleeker.

2. You will have to order a barrel with 1.250 shank (special order) as the 17 barrels are larger at the back.

3. Barrels on these things can be a pure bitch to get out unless you relieve the barrel in front of the action.

4. The trigger pull sucks big time so you are going to need a trigger assembly. Canjar or Timney is all I can think of that makes a group for these models. You can modify the gov't trigger but you need to be very careful and know what you are doing.

5. Take a look at the firing pin indents on fired cases. Is the striker indent dead center of the primer? How much offset do you reckson you have from dead center? The offset indent indicates the threads are not at exact right angles which is fairly common for these models and 1903 Springfields

6. Need to have the front of the receiver squared.

7. Assuming you are going to put a varmint stock on it you may need another stock. I built up a P14 with No 7 barrel and went back in 303 but with a 308 diameter barrel made with a special reamer I had made so I guess you could say I have a 30/303. It shoots very well. I have never gotten around to finishing the stock or putting a good trigger on it.

8. Very important, is the diameter of the striker hole .060" or larger? If so good because there were some made that utilized the P14 striker which is quite a bit smaller and love to pierce primers. I had to chuck up my bolt and drill it out to .060 and found a 1917 striker and fitted it to cure that potential problem.

9. There is a Weaver base made for altered Enfields which is good and stiff as well.

10. Don't mess with speed locks or other type safeties. The original design works just fine and is safe. It does give slower lock time but nothing you need to worry about. It is kind of like worrying about a pothole on a road you drive on once a year that you already know about.

11. Are you going with stainless or CM barrel. If CM are you going to blue the barreled action? That is even more bucks.

WHATEVER YOU DO PLEASE DO NOT RECHAMBER THE GOV'T BARREL TO MAGNUM CALIBER ! ! ! ! ! IT IS SURE TO FAIL AT SOME POINT AND IF YOUR FOREARM IS HOLDING THE RIFLE AND THE BARREL FAILS YOU WILL MOST LIKE LOSE FINGERS OR THUMB ! ! ! ! !! AGAIN DO NOT MAKE IT A MAGNUM ! ! ! !

As Nashlaw said, you are getting ready to drop a bunch of money here. For the money you will get further down field by finding a used Mod 70 Winchester, rebarreling it with a No 5 contour barrel (light varmint stainless) or a Light Palma Contour also stainless and opening the factory barrel channel and you are good to go. Insofar as Mod 70s go if you can find a pre war action with a clip slot you have arrived as you can use this base to build up a long range rifle and a course rifle at the same time that will take five rounds in the mag and you are already in the fast lane.

I have done this on a number of rifles and with this combo appropriately worked you can run with the big kids. Oh yeah I would get a 26" barrel.


Depending on your degree of love of the game I would consider a custom reamer purchased by yourself to be used (by your gunsmith) to chamber your rifle only. If you get custom min side dimensions you can increase the life of your brass tremendously and thusly the reamer pays for itself on the first barrel just in brass cost you have saved and you and your kids are set for life.
If you are interested in this hit me with a PM and I can walk you through it.
 
Re: M1917 sporter good base for rifle build

Hummer, your " Scared Straight " reply has worked.

Nashlaw and i have PM'ed a few times and he's given some good advice regarding starting with a new rifle.

Like i told him, i'm on a budget so i've looked into Savage rifles. Also i'm not close to any 1000 yrd ranges so 100-300 yrds is what i have access to. Also, i'm not going to be shooting EVERY weekend, as much as i'd like to, so ammo cost isn't too big of a deal. I'm stuck between just doing a .22LR or a .223 for more fun and range.

any thoughts?
 
Re: M1917 sporter good base for rifle build

Wow, you got 300 yards to play with ! ! ! Great. That will teach you a lot.

The Mod 75 Win is a very nice little rifle. I have one that was my Dad's at one time, he sold it to one of his best friends who wanted me to sell it for him. In the interim I have talked his son into coming by and picking it up to use and he has now decided he needs to.

A 22 at 100 yards with good match ammo is just like shooting a 308 at 600. A 22 at 200 is like shooting a 308 at 1000. You can get 600 reduced for 100 yard high power targets from National Target Company. You can also get 200 yard smallbore targets from them on same order.

For the 223 National Target has a 1000 yard reduced for 300 yards. They shoot alot of this up at Burlington Flats, NY range. I put them on those targets and hear they love them.

What kind of sights are on the 1917? If you have the ears on you could get them ground off and mount a scope better.

Oh yeah the P14 barrels are bad to split even with 303 ammo. Then tend to split from the muzzle and work their way to the rear. ALL Manufacturers had this problem. I have copy of declassified Ordnance Board reports from WW1 timeframe (Brit Ord) that tells of this. I don't know about this problem in 1917 as things got different when US Gov't inspectors went in to the vendor plants to monitor production.

The best long range shooters on the Palma Teams back in 80s were mostly smallbore shooters to begin with. That is where you learn proper technique. If you can shoot well with 22 you can shoot anything. Just because you shoot well with highpower doesn't mean you will do well in smallbore because you can get away with bad technique in highpower the 22 will not tolerate.

The name of the game is shoot, shoot, shoot. The more you practice the better you will get.
 
Re: M1917 sporter good base for rifle build

hmm, Savage markII FV? sounds like a good start right?
Have you seen good deals on these? Gander has them for mid-200's.
Which scope? Bushnell?

Also, does anyone have a rifle they're looking to sell?
 
Re: M1917 sporter good base for rifle build

The 1917 has the original iron sights, barrel, and action. I've found a scope base that is supposed to be a direct replacement for the rear sight.

The cost of ammo and the kick is another thing that makes the 1917 less likely to get any investment. i dont mind the kick so much, but my wife likes to shoot also and she nearly became the one-armed woman after shooting it once.
 
Re: M1917 sporter good base for rifle build

I have a Rem 40X 30/338 Magnum with dies and brass I have never shot though it has been. It was the personal rifle of a member of the Brit 300 Meter Team. I have no use for it as I have several other magnum rifles. It has the original barrel on it.
HIt me with a PM and a phone number and I will call you as I have the unlimited long distance if you are interested.

The dies are RCBS.