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Rifle Scopes Magnification Ring Lever - Metal vs. Plastic

pineoak

Assistant Minion
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Minuteman
Feb 15, 2017
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Cary, North Carolina
$60 for a Vortex Switchview is almost a crime... but the metal is nice.

I've never NEEDED one as there isn't a need to move the mag ring quickly on a precision rifle for me.

Considering one for an AR15 variable optic.

Now I'm thinking of getting one for my precision optics.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

$20 molded by a 3D printer in someone's basement
or
$60 to Vortex for a piece that costed them $6

???

My posted review between the Vortex/MGM, MK Machining printed, Cat tail; not exact, but what I had on hand:
https://www.snipershide.com/shooting/forum/...eapie-cat-tail
 
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I used the MK Machining 20$ 3D printed one for a while and had zero issues with it. Worked great.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Shooting in timed matches makes them a handy add-on IMO. Sometimes I use a lower power to search out or locate a target when there are multiple targets in different places and ranges, then zoom in a bit for a better sight picture if it's small and at distance. I have both types, metal machined and plastic 3D printed. They both work equally well. The only real difference is that the 3D printed plastic types are less cosmetically pleasing, if that matters at all.
 
The machined AL throw levers are worth the $$ once you get one. I went from well throw levers arnt needed to using a plastic adjustable one thinking this is amazing to the feel and solidness (wd?) of the AL one. It is really nice. You never know how nice a throw lever is until you have to engage several targets over a large are and am a zoom zoom whore like me. in-out-in-out-in-etc...lol

Good luck and just buy one. The 3d printers I have experience with are nowhere near solid enough as a good AL one. Waste the money on breaking 1 and you paid for a quality product. I have always used MGM target throw levers. Good stuff.

Regards,
DT
 
Aadlands are $60 for plastic. Am I so old I think $60 is actually worth something ?

For $60 I'd buy an MGM Switchview aluminum lever. I have 2 of the ~$20 MK Machining 3D printed plastic levers and they're pretty nice and have held up so far. They're pretty solid, not better than the Switchview I have, but well worth the money IMHO
 
I just checked eBay and there's a seller with many of the Switchview models for $45 shipped. Also, MidwayUSA has Warne branded Switchviews for $48.

Right now I'm using universal coasters (fishing accessory) on 2 Minox ZP5s (oh the horror) and although they flex a bit, they get the job done. Someone needs to make a lever for the ZP5s.
 
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I recently purchased a pair of plastic adjustable bands which I use as levers for the magnification power ring. They go by the name of "Break Away" or something very similar to that. Their actually adjustable plastic bands used to secure the fishing reels to the fishing rod. They cost about $20.00 a pair. I think I may have purchased them on Ebay or such. Google the name. I have one mounted on my scope now. Definitely worth checking out for the money.
 
So are the Warne, MGM, & Vortex branded throw levers all made in the same factory in China? They look identical.

Wouldn't Vortex sue for infringement, or is it such a basic design that anyone can copy it?
 
Thought I'd chime in here. I own MK Machining, and we take our printing much more seriously than it being "something in a basement". In addition to using nice machines and software we keep up with the latest in materials (we don't use PLA or ABS like most prints), constantly improve based on user feedback, our lever library is constantly expanding (almost 60 levers, did a USO B series tonight), and we can make much smaller batches than is economically feasible with milled aluminum...we do that as well.

Is a plastic lever as strong as the same design in aluminum? Definitely not. Is it stronger than you think? Probably, they're pretty tough. Of course a lever breakage is warrantied, but barring 3 gunners literally throwing guns in a dump barrel, we have very few issues...and then almost all those other issues are someone just hamfisting it with the torque. Keep in mind if your lever doesn't break, that force is going elsewhere. We have a ton of folks tell us they damaged a scope and went to a plastic lever to keep that from happening, you're out no money and without a lever for a few days until a new one arrives.

Another point of contention many folks would have with a plastic part is the aesthetic appeal vs anodized aluminum. I'm a huge fan of a clean metal part, but that comes at a cost. It is always a constant concern to keep improving the surface finish of a printed lever and simply optimize the process. Here's some pictures of recent levers...you can definitely tell they're printed, but look clean. We've recently started shipping a "Rev II" design with durability, ergonomic, and aesthetic enhancements, here's a few pics.

PkSUZOu.jpg


AxbgQRi.jpg


AhcGDFL.jpg



I guess in short, aluminum is superior in finish and strength. A printed lever can provide a great fit, with perhaps sufficient strength and aesthetic appeal for your needs.




 
Pineoak, I do see your point about cost for "plastic". First I slightly miss spoke these Aadland levers are "composite". Lol. Second, I'd consider myself a tough critic and I'll admit I was impressed with not only the fit but the feel of these levers. I'll post pics next week when I receive them.
 
I just ordered these for my ATACR. I wanted to try these buy my PTL it came with was hitting my bolt handle. These are cheap, 2 pack. So far, holding up
 

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Another point of contention many folks would have with a plastic part is the aesthetic appeal vs anodized aluminum. I'm a huge fan of a clean metal part, but that comes at a cost. It is always a constant concern to keep improving the surface finish of a printed lever and simply optimize the process. Here's some pictures of recent levers...you can definitely tell they're printed, but look clean. We've recently started shipping a "Rev II" design with durability, ergonomic, and aesthetic enhancements, here's a few pics.

Ty, I've got one of your levers also. One thing that I noticed about the cosmetics was that the plastic finish was very shiny, which made the throw lever stand out from the matte finish of the scope. I took some 000 steel wool to the throw lever and that helped the look be a little more matte and similar to the scope finish. Only took a few minutes and was worth doing.

Have you tried some sort of tumbling process to see if you can achieve the same effect? Maybe something like wet tumbling with ceramic stones?
 
Ty, I've got one of your levers also. One thing that I noticed about the cosmetics was that the plastic finish was very shiny, which made the throw lever stand out from the matte finish of the scope. I took some 000 steel wool to the throw lever and that helped the look be a little more matte and similar to the scope finish. Only took a few minutes and was worth doing.

Have you tried some sort of tumbling process to see if you can achieve the same effect? Maybe something like wet tumbling with ceramic stones?

We just got our first industrial sized spool of a plastic called "TECH-G" which is one of the only all USA made filaments. It does have a more matte finish, more satin than gloss. We will be transitioning all our production to this filament type as we run through our current stock (we use ESUN PETG now, the most consistent stuff we've found until this TECH-G, which along with our "Rev II" design both lead to a less shiny part. Additionally we've been testing some carbon fiber copolymers that have a very matte finish and almost completely hide layer lines...they look milled or molded. Downside is the filament is more expensive, harder to print well, and requires specialized equipment because it is very abrasive.

Luckily we've got it figured out and you'll see some carbon fiber options available soon.
 
I'll chime in again to say that I have two of MK's levers and like them. I do like the newer design as it is more cosmetically appealing. The strength of the levers that he makes is plenty adequate to do the job and I've had no failures even under stressed use in matches. It seems to me that he, like some other successful manufacturers here on the Hide, has the correct attitude of constant improvement and innovation based upon customer feedback. Anything else leads to stagnation and fading away.
 
So are the Warne, MGM, & Vortex branded throw levers all made in the same factory in China? They look identical.

Wouldn't Vortex sue for infringement, or is it such a basic design that anyone can copy it?

Pretty sure they're all made by the same company, and it's here in the US, not China. Like many other manufacturers, they offer private labeling to many companies.
 
I recently purchased a pair of plastic adjustable bands which I use as levers for the magnification power ring. They go by the name of "Break Away" or something very similar to that. Their actually adjustable plastic bands used to secure the fishing reels to the fishing rod. They cost about $20.00 a pair. I think I may have purchased them on Ebay or such. Google the name. I have one mounted on my scope now. Definitely worth checking out for the money.

They're called universal coasters. I use them when there's no model specific throw lever and they work really well, regardless of how they look.
 
So I purchased the "break away" ones and the Vortex branded metal ones.

The metal feels and looks nice, installs solid, no issues other than price.

The plastic ones... on two different black 30mm scopes... one looks like a horrific tumor that should be cut off immediately before the scope dies of cancer... and on the other black 30mm scope it doesn't look too bad. Overall fit and finish- SUCKS. If you crank down hard enough, they do work. That said, it is convenient that you can adjust them to fit ANY scope at ANY time. I did clip off the tops of the rabbit ears that weren't being used. Will not go this route again.

I will be running metal from now on. Maybe pick up an MK to try on a scope that doesn't offer metal.

For me, the $60 is worth it for the aesthetics alone. Still think it's a ridiculous gouge of the customer at that price.
 
So I purchased the "break away" ones and the Vortex branded metal ones.

The metal feels and looks nice, installs solid, no issues other than price.

The plastic ones... on two different black 30mm scopes... one looks like a horrific tumor that should be cut off immediately before the scope dies of cancer... and on the other black 30mm scope it doesn't look too bad. Overall fit and finish- SUCKS. If you crank down hard enough, they do work. That said, it is convenient that you can adjust them to fit ANY scope at ANY time. I did clip off the tops of the rabbit ears that weren't being used. Will not go this route again.

I will be running metal from now on. Maybe pick up an MK to try on a scope that doesn't offer metal.

For me, the $60 is worth it for the aesthetics alone. Still think it's a ridiculous gouge of the customer at that price.

I'll send you a lever for whatever optic you desire, free of charge. All I ask is your honest review. Howbowdah?
 
Here's a prototype S&B lever from Aadland. (Loaned them a scope)
 

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Isn't somebody selling those as "Cattail throw levers" and charging like $15 for them?

yes, but after watching 6.5 guys on youtube, they said somebody was selling them as a two pack on amazon. they were originally produced for fishing equipment, but somebody started selling them as cattails for almost double the price
 
I'll send you a lever for whatever optic you desire, free of charge. All I ask is your honest review. Howbowdah?

whoa, can't beat that with a stick.

yeah, i wish i had send you a picture of the "tumor", lol. they are very large in size but i guess that's why i leaned towards them. plus the price point, i didn't think i could go wrong.
 
I have both the MK and Vortex switchview. I ordered the MK one, then a few weeks later got the switchview.

My hand prefers the feel of the MK plastic over the aluminum. The switchview was too narrow for my comfort. Plus aesthetically the MK looks better in my opinion.

I will be looking for more throw levers at a later date, as I enjoy the feeling of them.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
We just got our first industrial sized spool of a plastic called "TECH-G" which is one of the only all USA made filaments. It does have a more matte finish, more satin than gloss. We will be transitioning all our production to this filament type as we run through our current stock (we use ESUN PETG now, the most consistent stuff we've found until this TECH-G, which along with our "Rev II" design both lead to a less shiny part. Additionally we've been testing some carbon fiber copolymers that have a very matte finish and almost completely hide layer lines...they look milled or molded. Downside is the filament is more expensive, harder to print well, and requires specialized equipment because it is very abrasive.

Luckily we've got it figured out and you'll see some carbon fiber options available soon.

Tyler,
We use Tech-G at work and while we like it, we never could find it in black.

-Toolman
 
I have one of Tylers on my Nikon M223 that works pretty well, I dont think that it was made specifically for that scope but fits well. I needed that one becuase of how the mounts were in relation to the mag ring. I dont have any complaints at all.

I have the vortex version for my PST, yhe mag ring was crazy stiff on my scope. Its nice, but does not offer $40 more function or anything.

I just received by RazorII, but the mag ring works much more freely than my PST. I dont think Ill need a throw lever for this one, but if I do, Ill give Tyler a shout.

jmho.

 
Tyler,
We use Tech-G at work and while we like it, we never could find it in black.

-Toolman

He had one run made and as far as I know we bought almost all of it, but he should be getting more in a month or so. I might buy it all this time ;) It prints more matte than other black PETG related stuff and is stronger as well.
 
I know this sounds cheap. Ten years ago, before these nice options were available, we would pull a zip tie around the ring tight and cut off the ends to just leave a nice piece to grab. Cost was twenty five cents, maybe. Mine you, this was competion, not real life. It worked great. I do understand this would not be cool anymore, much better choices today.
 
Aadlands are $60 for plastic. Am I so old I think $60 is actually worth something ?

The 3d printers I have experience with are nowhere near solid enough as a good AL one. Waste the money on breaking 1 and you paid for a quality product.

Hi Guys,

With respect, if you haven’t used one of our levers there’s no way to have an informed opinion about them. Ours are absolutely nothing like the cheap 3D printed or universal plastic levers you may have seen, so any conclusions drawn from them do not apply to our levers at all.

We have a long list of customers who, after trying one of our levers, proceed to replace all the aluminum levers they have on all their scopes for which we make levers. They don’t do this because they feel like “downgrading” for some reason. Quite the opposite—they do it because they feel ours are better and that’s what they want to use.

Durability is not an issue with our levers. Nobody has ever broken one in the field or had any other sort of failure so that’s a complete non-issue. And that’s pretty impressive since our sales of these are nearly 100% Military, LE and Match Shooters—the guys that shoot the most and are the hardest on their gear. Since we don’t even advertise these, safe queen owners have never heard of them and hunters (even those who love our caps) generally don’t want a big throw lever on a hunting rifle so our levers have pretty much all gone to rifles that are used hard in the field year round.

As far as being solid, locking up solidly on the power ring, etc, it just doesn’t get any more solid than our levers. We are able to do this without the extremely high clamping forces of aluminum levers because of the Exact Fit design of our levers. Here’s how that works, using our new Vortex AMG lever as an example to show the fit that simply cannot be matched by simplistic 2D cookie cutter designs:

DSC_2225.jpg


When we say Exact Fit, we mean EXACT! Not “roughly resembling” or “the right diameter” or “roughly incorporating one feature.” The interior of the throw lever ring perfectly replicates the power ring in minute detail.

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Here you can see the contour of the lever matching the contour of the power ring perfectly, solidly locking it fore and aft.

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Here you can see the ridges built into the lever matching the grooves on the power lever perfectly, locking the lever radially.

This Exact Fit makes the lever solidly lock to the power ring with no play or slippage allowed, even with zero preload on the screw and zero stress in the material or on the power ring. It doesn’t rely on clamping force and the resulting friction to hold it into place as is the case with other designs. Once installed the lever and the power ring feel like they are one solid piece with zero play or movement between them.

DSC_2167.jpg


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All that allows one to enjoy the best thing about our EFTLs—the ergonomics. They’re round and smooth yet “grabby” when needed. Their specifically contoured 3D “knob” shape allows for them to “hook” a finger, thumb, open palm or any other portion of the hand from the right, left front or back to be pushed or pulled in the desired direction effortlessly—without being sharp on the hand. Their large size allows them to be located quickly and easily and be manipulated from odd positions very easily when the conditions are the least conducive and pressure is the highest on the user. This is the reason usually given by those replacing their aluminum levers—much better usability in high stress environments.

As for aesthetics, I'll have to admit I've always been a "function first" sort of guy--if you win the race nobody will care about your rattle-can paint job. That said, beauty is in the eye of the beholder and looks often grow on people. Sometimes gaining an understanding of why something looks the way it does, understanding the function behind the features will make an item more attractive to an individual.

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Personally, I think they're gorgeous. :D
 
Jon,

What printer do you use for your levers? The surface finish is appealing but the resin cost for SLA printing is so dang high I think we move a LOT more at $20 than we would at $60.

Tyler
 
Thanks Tyler. While I'd rather not get into details on how they are made, you're right about one thing--at $20 each we'd be paying people to take them off our hands!
 
While everybody is making a big deal about the strength of this material and construction vs that material and construction, I'd like to point out that in the event of a big enough hit to break one of the MK machining levers (which are quite sturdy) I'd rather break the lever than damage my scope.
 
While everybody is making a big deal about the strength of this material and construction vs that material and construction, I'd like to point out that in the event of a big enough hit to break one of the MK machining levers (which are quite sturdy) I'd rather break the lever than damage my scope.

I agree 100%. I can only imagine the force of a blow necessary to break one of the MK Machining printed levers. I believe that the amount of force required to do so would also break one of the aluminum Switchview levers. I have and use both.

I think that the comment regarding breakage was referring specifically to those cheap tabbed ones listed earlier in the thread. At least that's how I read it.
 
I've got a Kahles 624i on low ARC M10 rings and a Bighorn TL-3 with the MK Machining throw lever. I'll get bolt operation interference below 10x power, but that's because of how I've got it mounted. I could fix the low end interference by flipping the throw lever around, but then 24x would be farther to the left side. With the throw lever mounted so that the the handle is to the clockwise side of the factory "bump" (looking from behind the scope) the throw lever operates from roughly 10 o'clock to 4 o'clock, with 10 o'clock being 24x and 4 o'clock being 6x. The range that I'll actually use is between 10 and 2 o'clock. If I flipped the lever around it would fix the bolt handle interference but it would put the commonly used magnification range with the throw lever sticking sideways to the left side of the gun rather than straight up.
 
I just received my throw lever from MK and I can say that it looks fine in my opinion. If it was a little more matte it would be better but for the quality of product for the price you pay it is awesome and I do not think I am loosing anything from the metal or aluminum ones.
 

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Purchased the printed MK throw lever and like the look and feel, unfortunately when tightened up there is movement front and back so it will probably need replaced.
 
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Purchased the printed MK throw lever and like the look and feel, unfortunately when tightened up there is movement front and back so it will probably need replaced.

Contact MK Machining and tell him your issue. I imagine that he'll make it right.
 
Yah, I'm not worried about that. Had other things going on, but I'll be in touch with them. I will be happy to utilize their throw lever when I get one that snugs up. has a great feel and I like the size/location of the knob.
 
Yup, let us know the problem and we'll get you sorted out! We usually hold extremely tight tolerances, so with some measurements I can recommend a lever that might not say your scope's model on it, but fit better. We've found a lot of variance specifically in the Vortex optics mag ring diameters.
 
Quality looks amazing on the Aadland stuff. Can't wait to get my Steiner MX5i back with some goodies on it.