As you can see, my MDT LSS Gen 2 is bristling with weights. She is just over 18 pounds as shown. Rear wt, Front wts ( 4 sets )
Aluminum bag rider. I could add a steel bag rider under the factory rider. I very frequently have to add something under my bag to raise it. The factory bag rider created a nice flat plane for me to start with. With flat head screws, my additional steel rider edges would line up nice and pretty with the factory one. Or I could make it twice as wide..... Iv'e seen BR guy's guns that had a 2.5 inch wide bottom section of their butt stock area.
Most recently on a beautiful blue lam BR Vudoo with a high polish aluminum butt plate. That said, you could skip your rubber butt plate and make that steel as well.
To me that would mean a piece of CRS with a couple of c'sunk holes in it. I could make some that bolt to the rear weight by
drilling and tapping holes in the factory weight. Rear factory weight would provide the holes and mounting surface for my new DIY weights.
One per side. The front is really simple because the weights have created a flat plane to work with. I could buy more MDT weights and use longer screws to get to the small M-Loc nuts. You could even put something in the QD hole to line up your sandwiched front weights since they wont have the benifit of the M-loc locating nubs. Round and springy would be cool.... urethane plug? roll pin? I must admit that I looked at adding more MDT weights..... If you sandwich them, the M-loc locating nubs cause slight problems. They create a gap between the weights. I would have machined them off
below flush rather than have a 2 or 3mm gap.
I could fill the Atlas legs with something. I could even sneak in a piece of round tubing inside of my scope sun shade. ( about 2.75 pounds )
Lets see.... round tube with an O-ring groove cut near each end. O-rings should hold it in place and act as a damper.
That's just beginning of the crazy talk.... LoL
Seriously..... If I were going to do all of that work, I would design and build or alter a purchased chassis that allowed my BA to float freely reward
while the bullet was in the barrel. Feinwerkbau (FWB) does it with three pins about .50" long. FWB 65 pistol and FWB 300. That way the action is sliding straight reward while the bullet is going forward. Their is no felt recoil on the shooter until after the bullet is out of the gun. Then there is a small recoil impulse because the BA runs out of room to slide. But since the bullet is gone, it doesn't matter what the gun does.
The FWB design eclipsed all other Olympic air guns for the next 15 or so years.
B.B. blog post titled FWB 300 disassembly instructions: Part 1 explores new information, history, tips and tricks at the Pyramyd Air.
www.pyramydair.com
If you go to step #4, you will see two pins about 3mm (.125") diameter. The rear only has one pin. The entire upper slides for and aft on
on the pins. The pins are supported by that round sheet metal tubular piece. The "BASE" mounts to the wood.
Step #5 calls it the "BASE" and shows a red arrow showing it's direction of removal.
Third image is of a FWB 300RT. In this condition without scope.... $2000.00. photo from internet. This sledge system has been around since about 1963 starting in the LG150. I believe....
Now we have PCP guns and different recoil management systems. Still, the FWB sledge system would be perfect for .22LR use.
Image #4 is a FWB P70 FT. ( high power version ) Steyr, FWB, Anschutz, etc all make Olympic air guns. You can pick up a
low power Anschutz
9015 FT for $4600.00 plus tax. Then you will need some kind of compressor to charge it to 3000 psi.
The Hill goes to 4500 psi. ($1250.00) It's been a great unit. Still I would like it better if it was a no frills analog unit.
Working on 100 year old guns is simple but add an electronic trigger and even a dead battery can be a PITA !!
FWB 90 pistol.
Sorry for jumping the rails like I did.....
