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MDT introduces the HNT26! A 26 Ounce Carbon Fiber Hunting Chassis.

I have a RRS SC-LR on my Atlas bipod and it will not stay in place under recoil from my 20" 300prc. Went to take another shot and when I put the rifle up to my shoulder my bipod slid right off the front of the integrated ARCA foreend.

I have since installed a pic rail on the foreend.
Please reach out to us through our support portal, and we would be happy to look into that for you.


-Anthony
 
Same issue … I put my rig back on my element and now have a Vudoo 22in the hnt 26 .. sexy looking chassis but not the best fit for me
 
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Love mine!

416 Rigby and 338 Lapua Magnum WTO Switch-barrel AnTI 338 LM Action, 28" 338 LM, 20" 416 Rigby by Bayou Advanced Weapon Systems LLC
 

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Mine is a hunting rig in 7mm RM. I am running a 26 inch Bartlein CF barrel. All in weight with sling (but no bipod) and mag/ammo is 10 pounds and an ounce or two. Balance point is about 2 inches forward of the magazine well.
Do you have a photo of your setup? I am thinking of ordering another hnt26 chassis to be able to swap my tikka with a 26” bartlein carbon barrel into from a krg w3.
 
Love mine !!

338 Lapua, 416 Rigby Switch-barrel

Badass lite, fast and reliable

Build by Area318.com

833-AIM-FIRE

731-607-6527
 

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I forgot to measure the forend of my HNT26 before I left the house this morning. Does anyone know if a 3-slot pic rail would fit in the smaller slot at the very end of the HNT26?

1681134326497.png


Overall length of this example is listed as being 1.6 inches. I think center-to-center fastener length will be +/- 3/4" to 7/8" range. So maybe need about a 1" slot length on the HNT26 (just guessing).
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I have a 3" MDT m-lok pic rail, and I could grind off one of the lugs to make it work, but I'd prefer a rail that is fully captured by that furthest forward slot in the forend.

@MDT_OFFICIAL do you have a recommended product? Anyone else have a link to something that will work?
 
I forgot to measure the forend of my HNT26 before I left the house this morning. Does anyone know if a 3-slot pic rail would fit in the smaller slot at the very end of the HNT26?

View attachment 8117153

Overall length of this example is listed as being 1.6 inches. I think center-to-center fastener length will be +/- 3/4" to 7/8" range. So maybe need about a 1" slot length on the HNT26 (just guessing).
View attachment 8117154

I have a 3" MDT m-lok pic rail, and I could grind off one of the lugs to make it work, but I'd prefer a rail that is fully captured by that furthest forward slot in the forend.

@MDT_OFFICIAL do you have a recommended product? Anyone else have a link to something that will work?
I took the sling stud off and used a 5 slot rail. There is no way 2 mlok nuts fit thru that first slot. A 3 slot you might be able to bolt thru the sling stud hole with a regular nut if you really care about 2 slots worth of weight.
 
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I took the sling stud off and used a 5 slot rail. There is no way 2 mlok nuts fit thru that first slot. A 3 slot you might be able to bolt thru the sling stud hole with a regular nut if you really care about 2 slots worth of weight.
So, with a 5-slot pic rail, you were able to use the sling stud hole and the small slot in the forend? Do you have a picture handy showing how far forward the pic rail is attached? Thanks!
 
So, with a 5-slot pic rail, you were able to use the sling stud hole and the small slot in the forend? Do you have a picture handy showing how far forward the pic rail is attached? Thanks!
No, the 5 slot spans over the sling stud hole and is at the front end of both the short slot and the longer slot.
 
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Whelp, I must’ve misunderstood. I thought the 1.5” rail would just drop into the front slot in the forearm, and I ordered before I measured the slot. Wrong, haha. Luckily, I have a 7-axis to trim the nubs on the rail to fit into the sling swivel hole.

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Whelp, I must’ve misunderstood. I thought the 1.5” rail would just drop into the front slot in the forearm, and I ordered before I measured the slot. Wrong, haha. Luckily, I have a 7-axis to trim the nubs on the rail to fit into the sling swivel hole.

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Any issues from being attached with one MLOK or did you put something through the other screw hole and sling hole too? Does the other hole line up with the sling stud hole?

I’m looking for a solution to getting a lightish bipod out further that’s not a Harris and not arca. Without modifying something the only solution I’ve found has been some MLOK extendo picatinny rails.
 
Any issues from being attached with one MLOK or did you put something through the other screw hole and sling hole too? Does the other hole line up with the sling stud hole?

I’m looking for a solution to getting a lightish bipod out further that’s not a Harris and not arca. Without modifying something the only solution I’ve found has been some MLOK extendo picatinny rails.
Im using the short/partial Mlok at the end of the forearm and the sling swivel hole. So far, no issues.

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It is possible it is something we will offer in the future, but nothing is planned for right now.

-Anthony
Can you convert the folder back to a straight? Just the tikka as folder available in australia right now which would be ok but if I go into the next state I can’t take the folder. :(

I was hoping the latest container would have some fixed tikka sa in it but no joy.
 
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Can you convert the folder back to a straight? Just the tikka as folder available in australia right now which would be ok but if I go into the next state I can’t take the folder. :(

I was hoping the latest container would have some fixed tikka sa in it but no joy.
They are epoxied together, so you cant just swap the center section; you will need a whole new buttstock.

-Anthony
 
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Can you convert the folder back to a straight? Just the tikka as folder available in australia right now which would be ok but if I go into the next state I can’t take the folder. :(

I was hoping the latest container would have some fixed tikka sa in it but no joy.

Tig weld that bitch... No longer a folder. You could do it with a small bead or tack in one spot that would be easy enough to undo if you want it a folder again.
 
Can someone with a Remington sa take a picture of the action tang area from the top down? I have a buddy who just received his hnt 26 and we are trying to determine if he received the correct inlet or not.
 

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Here is what the pictures are that I received from him. The circular recess at the end of the tang is the area in question to me. The depth paired with the impact action having the blunt tang makes for a pretty big gap under the tang.
Is he sure the trigger hanger is clearing? Looks like its hitting to me.
 
Looks to me comparing secant and the chassis cmk81 posted that they are not the same. Unless MDT decided to remove more material to save weight.

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My 737R cleared in a HNT26 absolutely fine and the tang area most certainly did not look like that.
The receiver is sitting crooked in the inlet, and theres also a small nick in the trigger inlet right in front the receiver screw hole. I’m not refuting that yours and the other posters fit. This would’ve been sorted out in one second with some not crap pictures.
 
The receiver is sitting crooked in the inlet, and theres also a small nick in the trigger inlet right in front the receiver screw hole. I’m not refuting that yours and the other posters fit. This would’ve been sorted out in one second with some not crap pictures.
Yes the receiver is sitting crooked and that was never in question. The question stated in my original post was the size of the recess. Could be sorted out in seconds with some not shit responses.
 
Yes the receiver is sitting crooked and that was never in question. The question stated in my original post was the size of the recess. Could be sorted out in seconds with some not shit responses.
Lol, sorry, you get no credit.
 
What does the gap look like when the action is actually bolted to the chassis? I don't have an Impact, and I know others have said that their trigger hangers cleared their chassis, but that doesn't your friend's trigger hanger is clearing his chassis. It's worth a quick look to cross off the list.

MDT has some of the best customer service around, I'd tell your friend to create an account and message them and/or call. They will get him sorted out.
 
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What does the gap look like when the action is actually bolted to the chassis? I don't have an Impact, and I know others have said that their trigger hangers cleared their chassis, but that doesn't your friend's trigger hanger is clearing his chassis. It's worth a quick look to cross off the list.

MDT has some of the best customer service around, I'd tell your friend to create an account and message them and/or call. They will get him sorted out.
We will fully bolt into the action Friday and go from there. I tried to get him to do it over the phone and take pictures but it never happened. Will attach pictures then if there are more questions
 
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Can someone with a Remington sa take a picture of the action tang area from the top down? I have a buddy who just received his hnt 26 and we are trying to determine if he received the correct inlet or not.
That looks correct, you can also remove the pistol grip, and it will be stamped what inlet it is. It will say Rem 700 SA or LA
 
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Looks fine-ish when you add the action screws. Wish he would have done it from the get go. I personally don’t care for the look but it’s not mine.
 

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Here is what the pictures are that I received from him. The circular recess at the end of the tang is the area in question to me. The depth paired with the impact action having the blunt tang makes for a pretty big gap under the tang.

Looks fine-ish when you add the action screws. Wish he would have done it from the get go. I personally don’t care for the look but it’s not mine.

The gap behind the tang of the action is intended to be 0.5 mm [~0.020"] in that inlet and it appears that your friends action is sitting quite a bit higher than that. I would suspect that it's unintentionally contacting somewhere else and that the barrel is appearing to "tilt" down in the forend?

I'll go get a picture of our Impact 737R in an HNT-26 for you and verify that the gap should appear smaller!

- Josh
 
@cmk81 as promised, here are some pictures of our brand new Impact 737R (literally arrived yesterday) in a HNT-26 chassis. The gap is significantly smaller leading me to believe that something isn't installed correctly and should not be shot on your friends action!
PXL_20240229_214728211.jpg

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@cmk81 as promised, here are some pictures of our brand new Impact 737R (literally arrived yesterday) in a HNT-26 chassis. The gap is significantly smaller leading me to believe that something isn't installed correctly and should not be shot on your friends action!
View attachment 8362119
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That’s similar to what he has. I think there was a shadow making my picture look worse than it is
 
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My Black Friday lightweight 6.5PRC hunting build is finally complete after the backordered barrel made an appearance. Parts include Defiance Anti-X medium (Rem short action), Proof 22” CF barrel, Triggertech diamond single stage limited edition gold trigger, MDT HNT 26 chassis (blem sale) arca folder, Hawkins hunter magazine, TBAC 6.5 ultra 7 can with CB mount. Nightforce NX8 4-32X50 Mil-XT F1 scope mounted on Nightforce ultralight 4 screw rings. Ready to hunt weight ended up at 8.8lbs with silencer and mag. 6lbs 1oz. without optics and can. I made a mistake thinking that spur rings would work on the defiance split picatinny rail, but the rear section was too small. I couldn't find the blemish on the HNT 26. Does anyone know of the short action fore ends only use 3 total screws instead of 5 (that could be it)?


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My Black Friday lightweight 6.5PRC hunting build is finally complete after the backordered barrel made an appearance. Parts include Defiance Anti-X medium (Rem short action), Proof 22” CF barrel, Triggertech diamond single stage limited edition gold trigger, MDT HNT 26 chassis (blem sale) arca folder, Hawkins hunter magazine, TBAC 6.5 ultra 7 can with CB mount. Nightforce NX8 4-32X50 Mil-XT F1 scope mounted on Nightforce ultralight 4 screw rings. Ready to hunt weight ended up at 8.8lbs with silencer and mag. 6lbs 1oz. without optics and can. I made a mistake thinking that spur rings would work on the defiance split picatinny rail, but the rear section was too small. I couldn't find the blemish on the HNT 26. Does anyone know of the short action fore ends only use 3 total screws instead of 5 (that could be it)?


View attachment 8364079View attachment 8364077View attachment 8364080View attachment 8364078

Front screws were prone to stripping and didn’t add much to the rigidity so they left them out for current versions.
 
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@cmk81 as promised, here are some pictures of our brand new Impact 737R (literally arrived yesterday) in a HNT-26 chassis. The gap is significantly smaller leading me to believe that something isn't installed correctly and should not be shot on your friends action!
View attachment 8362119
View attachment 8362120

That piece of fuzz next to the action screw in those photos is gonna have some of our "On the Spectrum" members going berserk...
 
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My Black Friday lightweight 6.5PRC hunting build is finally complete after the backordered barrel made an appearance. Parts include Defiance Anti-X medium (Rem short action), Proof 22” CF barrel, Triggertech diamond single stage limited edition gold trigger, MDT HNT 26 chassis (blem sale) arca folder, Hawkins hunter magazine, TBAC 6.5 ultra 7 can with CB mount. Nightforce NX8 4-32X50 Mil-XT F1 scope mounted on Nightforce ultralight 4 screw rings. Ready to hunt weight ended up at 8.8lbs with silencer and mag. 6lbs 1oz. without optics and can. I made a mistake thinking that spur rings would work on the defiance split picatinny rail, but the rear section was too small. I couldn't find the blemish on the HNT 26. Does anyone know of the short action fore ends only use 3 total screws instead of 5 (that could be it)?


View attachment 8364079View attachment 8364077View attachment 8364080View attachment 8364078
Our current version only uses 3 screws.