Looking to build a 300BLK bolt gun on a rem700 action (clones will not fit the chassis / build I have in mind) and I’m struggling to find a stainless action with a 223 bolt in stock. I’ve found a 308 faced action in stock that LRI could size down to 223 if I opted for their mini M-16 extractor mod. Is this mod value add at all for the purposes of shooting 300 black subs? Would appreciate any personal experiences or thoughts on it for the purposes of 300BLK!
- Thread starter overmatch
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Not sure on .300 BLK, but generally, it's considered a solid upgrade over the standard 700 style extractor. It works great for the AR15, why would it be any different for a bolt gun?
This mod won't affect how it shoots or what ammo you shoot...It will simply help it extract the cases better. And yes, if I were building a custom today, I would certainly include the M16 extractor and side bolt release...Both are upgrades over factory 700 designs.
This mod won't affect how it shoots or what ammo you shoot...It will simply help it extract the cases better. And yes, if I were building a custom today, I would certainly include the M16 extractor and side bolt release...Both are upgrades over factory 700 designs.
I had one of the original AAC R700 SPS 300 BLK. It was an absolute dogshit of an action but I never had any issues extracting without the mini m16 extractor.
Personally if I was doing a 300BLK build today I’d either do a Howa mini action or if I was doing a R700, I’d do a CRF action with a prefit like the ARC CDG or Zermatt Origin
Personally if I was doing a 300BLK build today I’d either do a Howa mini action or if I was doing a R700, I’d do a CRF action with a prefit like the ARC CDG or Zermatt Origin
Any specific gripes with the action?
It was during the bad Remington years before bankruptcy, around 2017. The QC had significantly dropped.
Didn't shoot well with both the lightweight and the heavy barrel
Felt really sticky running the bolt.
Didn't feed the greatest.
Timing issues with a Trigger Tech primary (would randomly not catch the sear) even with the pull weight increased to the max.
Lots of failures to ignites Rem 7 1/2 and CCI Br4s, probably because the headspace was out of spec, even with factory ammo. I even tried an extra power firing pin spring which didn't resolve the issue and just made the trigger pull and bolt lift worse.
And it was relatively expensive
All of these problems went away when I switched to a defiance action but knowing what I know now, I would do a CRF action for bullet proof feeding. Especially at the price of a CDG, it's cheaper than getting a R700 action and fixing it.
The CZ 600 Trail looked really good on paper but I heard they have issues, not sure if they've been fixed
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You may consider getting the .308 action, ordering a Mack Brothers R700 bolt with 223 breech face and selling your factory. 308 bolt.
You may be surprised how much you could get for the OEM bolt.
The Mack Bros is a big upgrade over the factory bolt anyway.
Best extractor design on the planet, bayonette style striker assembly removal and bolt handle boss is integrally machined into the bolt body instead of silver soldered.
Since you are rebarreling from scratch, existing H.S. is a moot point as well.
This is the way.
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Really interesting approach. It sounds like Mack Brothers bolts are meant to work with stock Remington 700 actions (after headspace)?
What price would you suggest listing the factory bolt at? Also, looks like Macbros website is out of stock. Do any retailers carry their products or do you have to go direct?
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Yes and they do this very well.
Midway is asking about $359.00 for a Rem Bolt.
You could likely ask $250 to $300 and find a buyer, especially if your bolt was new/unused.
Their next run will be available in 6 to 8 weeks.
If you cannot find any in stock at one of their dealer/resellers, PM me.
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I found an Accurate Ordnance 223 action on here and had a 300Blk barrel spun up. It is a Stiller clone and I also see Stiller Tac30 actions with 223 bolt faces fairly frequently.
If the price hadn’t been so attractive (I think I was into the action with a trigger and a few mags for $700ish), I would have bought an action that can take prefits.
I love my 300Blk bolt gun. If I wasn’t so lazy and loading on a progressive setup (getting low teens for an SD), I think I could get repeatable hits to 600 Yards with subsonics. Right now I can get consistent hits to 400-450yds and then start dealing with elevation issues from my ammo. I am going to spin up a batch trickling powder by hand for shots past 400 yards and see if I can get the SD down to 2-4. I have a 20MOA rail on the Cadex plus 30MOA from the ADM mount. That leaves me with just over 28 mils of elevation travel inside the NX8 2.5-20 (34 mils of internal elevation travel) using a 50 yard zero.
It is a 1 hole 5 shot group at 5 yards kind of gun with a Wilson barrel. About to chop it down to 8-9” to tuck the can inside the handguard.
Shooting this gun is like shooting a bigger 22LR. Just as quiet and without the pain of wind deflection at longer ranges.
If the price hadn’t been so attractive (I think I was into the action with a trigger and a few mags for $700ish), I would have bought an action that can take prefits.
I love my 300Blk bolt gun. If I wasn’t so lazy and loading on a progressive setup (getting low teens for an SD), I think I could get repeatable hits to 600 Yards with subsonics. Right now I can get consistent hits to 400-450yds and then start dealing with elevation issues from my ammo. I am going to spin up a batch trickling powder by hand for shots past 400 yards and see if I can get the SD down to 2-4. I have a 20MOA rail on the Cadex plus 30MOA from the ADM mount. That leaves me with just over 28 mils of elevation travel inside the NX8 2.5-20 (34 mils of internal elevation travel) using a 50 yard zero.
It is a 1 hole 5 shot group at 5 yards kind of gun with a Wilson barrel. About to chop it down to 8-9” to tuck the can inside the handguard.
Shooting this gun is like shooting a bigger 22LR. Just as quiet and without the pain of wind deflection at longer ranges.
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This is very very similar to how I want my build to come out. Going the direct thread version of the SRD762 Ti versus your QD, but that's pretty much the only difference. Great looking build and appreciate the ballistics datapoints.
Out of curiosity, what's the minimum barrel length you think that you need to clear the end of the handguard?
Because I have the QD can, I will thread the suppressor on to the muzzle brake and then thread it on to the barrel. To have about 1/4 of an inch sticking out of the hand guard, I think I’m going to have to cut it back to about 7.5 inches. I’m worried that’s going to be a bit short, and may mess with the velocity consistency. I think the direct threat Ken might be a little bit shorter since it won’t have a muzzle device sticking out the back, so you can probably go with a barrel that is closer to eight or 8.5 inches. I can take some measurements when I get home and post the pictures.
it’s going to a 8.5 inch barrel resulting in better SD/ES, I would probably take that trade off.
let me know if you need the load data, I can pass it along once I look it up. I guess I’ll probably have to bump the powder charge by 0.5 to make up for a short barrel. I buy the bullets from the Nosler surplus store and get a bunch of factory seconds for something like $.20 per bullet.
it’s going to a 8.5 inch barrel resulting in better SD/ES, I would probably take that trade off.
let me know if you need the load data, I can pass it along once I look it up. I guess I’ll probably have to bump the powder charge by 0.5 to make up for a short barrel. I buy the bullets from the Nosler surplus store and get a bunch of factory seconds for something like $.20 per bullet.
Sorry, should have clarified. On the Dual Strike with your action, how long of a barrel do you think you'd need to clear the end of the handguard without any suppressor?
This is a 16" barrel. I wouldn't go shorter than a 15"
If your threads are 5/8" long, then the threads will go back to about 14.5" on a 15" barrel which is directly under the top of the handguard. So the back of your muzzle device, once screwed on, would be directly under the top of the handguard.
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Thanks! Playing the waiting game with Cadex for my chassis now... Might just be the lighting, but is your chassis black or a dark brown?
I was so jazzed to get an early AAC sps in 300blk- got it at a coon dog trial . Had visions of hogs at night and ceader swamp deer hunts and corn field coyotes and an all around life weight walking around gun with the option of sun or super ammo. And I agree a dog shit action . Worse than the early Ruger American ranch which replaced it . Never had trouble with extraction but zippy , stiff, hard feeding from first and last round . My second worse rifle purchase to date. Oddly enough the first worst was also purchased at same coon dog trials . Buyer be ware - this is where the hillbilly’s and Amish dump their shit . Sorry for thread drift but man what a piece of shit . And Ho hum accuracy to go along with the shitty action and the spray paint looking finish.
Their shadow bronze, or truly an older color they don’t make? Looks great
I thought the name was vortex shadow...it's like a rich chocolate haha.
