Minimum sizing requirements when using fire formed brass in same rifle.

[MikelLee]

Hello all,
I am getting back into reloading after a 10 year hiatus.
Like most other people getting into shooting or back into shooting now-a-days I am going to work on long range precision.
I just bought a Bergarra HMR in 6.5 PRC and am enjoying it, but have been shooting factory ammo.
I used to reload a LOT, mostly 308 Win and 223 Remington, but I never really got into precision reloading.
So my previous reloading experience is using a progressive re-loader, using standard method of trimming, full length sizing, then loading using the progressive powder measure (after validating correct powder drop), and seating the bullet, validating COAL, and then knocking out a few hundred rounds.

NOW I want to start precision reloading and working up loads very specific to my rifle.

My question is, if I take factory ammo and fire form it in my gun. What are the minimal steps needed in re-sizing the brass, IF I plan on continuing to only shoot it in the same gun?

I am wondering if I really need to re-size to SAMI specs if I am using it in the same chamber?
How much case length trimming is going to be needed, if at all?
As the 6.5 PRC head spaces off the shoulder, again as I am only shooting my reloads in my ONE gun, do I need to re-set the shoulder and do a full length resizing?

As I am using fire formed brass, and only shooting in my one gun, shouldn't the re-sizing requirements be pretty minimal?

Thanks!
Mike

 

[Tokay444]

You do not need or want to resize to Saami spec.
I like neck size on just the first reload, to make sure the brass has fully reached the maximum head space of my chamber. It usually does on the first firing, but I want to be sure. From there, I bump the shoulder back .002” with a full length or body die every firing and rock and roll.
Trim as needed. My brass doesn’t grow.

 

[Powder_Burns]

If you want the cartridges to reliably feed into your chamber, full length sizing is still a given. Skip the neck sizing and body die route.

 

[lash]

Hey Mike.
Welcome back to loading. If you look at the top of this Reloading sub-forum, you will see some threads that are called Stickies. They have been pinned at the top since they are great informational threads for reloaded.

Maybe start with this one and go from there:

Hand loading for Long range 1: brass case prep

Let's look at our cartridge brass first. Everything we do in hand loading is in the name of consistency, shot to shot. (Technically not "reloading" which is quick & expedient for the likes of short range speed shooting such as IPSC & Steel challenge shoots.) So there it is before us- a fine...

www.snipershide.com

 

[918v]

If you want the cartridges to reliably feed into your chamber, full length sizing is still a given. Skip the neck sizing and body die route.

Body sizing for .002” shoulder bump followed by neck sizing produces absolutely reliable ammo.

 

[straightshooter1]

Hello all,
I am getting back into reloading after a 10 year hiatus.
Like most other people getting into shooting or back into shooting now-a-days I am going to work on long range precision.
I just bought a Bergarra HMR in 6.5 PRC and am enjoying it, but have been shooting factory ammo.
I used to reload a LOT, mostly 308 Win and 223 Remington, but I never really got into precision reloading.
So my previous reloading experience is using a progressive re-loader, using standard method of trimming, full length sizing, then loading using the progressive powder measure (after validating correct powder drop), and seating the bullet, validating COAL, and then knocking out a few hundred rounds.

NOW I want to start precision reloading and working up loads very specific to my rifle.

My question is, if I take factory ammo and fire form it in my gun. What are the minimal steps needed in re-sizing the brass, IF I plan on continuing to only shoot it in the same gun?

I am wondering if I really need to re-size to SAMI specs if I am using it in the same chamber?
How much case length trimming is going to be needed, if at all?
As the 6.5 PRC head spaces off the shoulder, again as I am only shooting my reloads in my ONE gun, do I need to re-set the shoulder and do a full length resizing?

As I am using fire formed brass, and only shooting in my one gun, shouldn't the re-sizing requirements be pretty minimal?

Thanks!
Mike

When one is reloading for "precision" the ultimate goal is "consistency" in making everything exactly the same from one cases to the next. A particular measurement can be, and often is, different for one person to another. So, whatever measurement one is using, doesn't matter so much as it being "consistent." While it's impossible to be absolutely perfect about all this, it's typically still the goal.

While the first firing (like you have after firing your factory ammo) does most of the fire forming, usually it's take 2 firing to really get if fully fire formed (some may say it takes more, but it seems dependent on the particular cartridge size one is working with). After firing, you'll want to full length resize your brass making sure to bump the shoulder back a little (like .002 - .003) to avoid any chambering residence that may develop. And it's a good idea to keep the cases trimmed to the same length each time (though not necessary to do all the time).


For precision shooting, having consistent neck tension and seating resistance makes a difference on paper. . . especially at the longer distances. I'd say, most precision reloaders use .002 or maybe .003 of neck tension. Because firing and resizing work hardens the neck and shoulder, more springback can occure making it difficult to get every case "the same". This is why so many precision reloaders will anneal the neck & shoulders before sizing. Doing so produces much more consistent results.

Your fired brass (that which has the fireforming completed) tells you what specs to work with for your case sizing rather than relying on SAAMI specs as those specs are aimed at a large variety of chambers made.

lol . . . short answer to your questions is, YES . . . you'll want to full length resize AND reset the shoulder.

Good luck Mike, and don't hold your breath going down this rabbit hole.

 

[MikelLee]

Cool, thanks all. Good data. Interested in further information as well.
I am going through the "Hand Loading for Long range" topics now.

Where are all the primers? Holy crap, just went to my Florida concealed carry class and the gun shop that hosts the class had 1000 Tulammo large rifle primers sitting in a dusty corner of their display case and I snagged them! Are you friggin kidding me? At least I have brass and some Hornady ELD match rounds to load with, plus a few pounds of H1000 and H4531SC.

 

[lash]

Yeah, there are at least a dozen threads here about the lack of primers, with small rifle and small pistol being the hardest to find right now. Large rifle and large pistol are somewhat easier to find, especially if you are willing to put in the internet legwork and or wait for delivery.

You are doing the right thing by getting good information up front on precision rifle reloading. In my opinion, doing proper prior research is the equivalent of measure twice, cut once in building. Well, research along with measure and record everything.

 

[Powder_Burns]

Body sizing for .002” shoulder bump followed by neck sizing produces absolutely reliable ammo.

Not gonna argue that, did it that way for years. Going forward though, I just use a FL die. Its one less die to purchase and one less sizing operation at the press.

 

[MikelLee]

I'm probably missing something obvious here, but what is "body sizing", I know what a full length sizing die does.
Is there a type of die that will just mover the shoulder without fully resizing the case?
If so what is the description of a "body sizing" die if I wanted to buy one?

I assume that's what is being said. I am likely just confusing terminology...

 

[918v]

Redding body dies size just the body and bump the shoulder. They size the body minimally, noticeably less than FL dies.

 

[MikelLee]

Cool I'll look at that.
Enjoying the precision reloading threads.

 

[Dthomas3523]

I personally use the wheeler method. I like my bolt to fall freely (when the ejector and cocking piece are removed). I size it down to the point it almost falls free and then just size it barely down after to allow the bolt to fall free. Then I use that measurement. It’s usually .002-.003 bump.

I’m personally much more concerned with reliable feeding at a match than getting a group that’s .1 smaller.