Maggie’s Motivational Pic Thread v2.0 - - New Rules - See Post #1

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Thank God for @143lrsd @Jefe's Dope @nockhunter and @Dirty D keeping the thread strong... Hadn't been on the Hide for a couple days I get back on MPT and it was about 5 pages of bullshit... Didn't know if I was on CNN/Fox or the Hide there for a minute :ROFLMAO:
There's one in particular fucktwit who just can't help himself from posting if COVID is in your post. So fucking retarded he doesn't know how to start a thread.
 
I've never been a fan of hanging belays on gear. Can't tell if your anchor is on bolts or not. Ive done a several routes in CA that were only hanging belays and they always make my bunghole pucker more than being on the sharp end. Climb safe, climb hard! :cool:(y)

That's my picture, so I'm not in it. The route is Rosy Crucifixion, which starts below the upper ramp on Redgarden Wall. I've done it a couple of times, most recently in 2012, so my memory of the pro might not be the best. IIRC, there are 2 or 3 pins on the traverse pitch and I think one is close enough to the hanging belay to include it in your anchor. My memory is that the trad gear in the hanging belay is bomber. The traverse pitch is given an "s" but I remember it taking enough small gear to back up the fixed pins well enough that it didn't really have big pucker factor.

Eldo is the land of nuts and small cams for many of these old classics. Some of the old fixed pins are about as good as a tent stake shoved in a pile of wet kitty litter, others are fine. The bolts in Eldo are a mixed bag too. Rosy was put up by Layton Kor and Jack Turner, so I would not be shocked if it had a bolt or two, I just don't remember any. Some of Kor's bolts are still in place in Eldo and I would not count on them holding a whipper, like 1/4" button heads, etc. The FFA was by Jim Erickson, who was a hardcore old school trad dude, so I doubt he would have added any bolts to Rosy.

Hanging belays can beat you up pretty good if you climb from one to another to another. I totally get why aid climbers take bosun's chairs along on big walls. I have one of those little nylon belay seats that I'll use on free routes if there's a bunch of hanging belays.