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Moving target build

tcole75

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Oct 26, 2017
523
73
Hollis Oklahoma
I'm planning to make a moving target that would move a 66% ipsc at roughly 5 mph.
My idea is to use either cee purlin or square tubing for the base and track that it would roll on. For the motor i plan on using an old treadmill motor and an external generator to run it off a chain system with a reverse switch to kick it back in the other direction if it all goes to plan it will move about 15 to 20 yards left and right.
If anyone has any experience building one let me know how you did it. If you see anything that could be better on my idea please let me know.
 
I'm smarter now, thank you. (had to look up what a typo 'cee purlin' auto-corrected) It actually 'is' a thing. Thanks.

As to the project, kudo's to ya. This has been brought up a few times over the years, and there are others who've done it 'one way' or 'another'.

This shall be interesting, what with the latest in 'modern technology' and the abilities of today.
 
Ok, I have seen alot of them up close. I own a millwright company. I have helped a few guys do this before. My first questions.
- permanent location?
- elevated off the ground at all?
- track protection? Berm? Wall?
- do you plan to be able to replace track section? (Tracks take more splatter hit than you might realize)
- will carriage be captive or floating?
- welded or fasteners?

Side thought, have you considered batteries to operate it? I have seen both. How remote is the location going to be?

These are honest questions and not meant to be rude. Are you building it or having parts built?
 
Did this happen? I'm researching this for our club. 1MOAOFF, any suggestions for a permanent track behind a berm. Battery operated or generator maybe
 
We built one out of an old garage door opener. Swapped the motor to a DC one and used the limit switches to auto reverse indefinitely. Runs off a battery bank.

25' of C-channel and a roll of chain from tractor supply. Random gear from the scrap pile for an idler on the far end. Conveyor belt to a plate hanging 4' below the track to mitigate hits.

Most importantly, no shoot cones on each side so you can't shoot it at the slight pause while it reverses. Also keeps splash farther from the motor and controls.



We're working on one for the .22 bay, 20' double strut to run the chain, with a trolley in the bottom side to hang a plate and roller on the dead end. Keeping that one 120v and we'll adjust speed with gearing. 1200w generator hides behind a 1/2" ar500 plate.


I've been wanting to build one with a vfd and remote fob to be able to adjust speed and start/stop from the bench. For no other reason than being able to screw with your competitors during a match.

Strut and trolley

Screenshot_20210330-160440.png
Screenshot_20210330-151948.png
 
Chevy_man, care to share some pictures next time you get a chance? I'm thinking about building one from scratch. Drawing a blank on how garage door limiter switches work. I need to do some web searches...
 
Chevy_man, care to share some pictures next time you get a chance? I'm thinking about building one from scratch. Drawing a blank on how garage door limiter switches work. I need to do some web searches...

Depends on the unit. Most have a threaded rod and a couple nuts that simply move back and forth to hit the limits and tell the board to stop the motor.

I'll see if I can remember pictures. I generally build it, and think about pictures 3 days later when I'm nowhere near it.
 
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You could also use the eyes to initiate the reverse sequence. Set them up right where you want it to begin it's return trip to the starting position.
The limit switch is actually designed to remove power once the door reaches a pre-determined travel point.
 
I'm planning to make a moving target that would move a 66% ipsc at roughly 5 mph.
My idea is to use either cee purlin or square tubing for the base and track that it would roll on. For the motor i plan on using an old treadmill motor and an external generator to run it off a chain system with a reverse switch to kick it back in the other direction if it all goes to plan it will move about 15 to 20 yards left and right.
If anyone has any experience building one let me know how you did it. If you see anything that could be better on my idea please let me know.

Never built a mover, but had a friend that could build pretty much anything I could think of including a runner. It could be used in any direction on the compass. Could even set up with a plate behind the target that knocked it over with an A zone hit, I will give you tips I learned from him...feel free to ignore.

- Depending on terrain, the rails need to be off the ground...or keep a broom handy
- Use bearings rather than bushings if possible
- Keep the vehicle as light as possible
- Have a braking method...keeps the target from ripping through the staples
- Don't let rookies shoot "at it"

This guy built a drop turner with two presentations. Each presentation activated another mover. Both of those movers could activate another

Shooting five movers not inline is...character building.
 
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You could also use the eyes to initiate the reverse sequence. Set them up right where you want it to begin it's return trip to the starting position.
The limit switch is actually designed to remove power once the door reaches a pre-determined travel point.
They're usually set up on just the N.C. contact in the switch. I utilize the N.O. set to energize a relay and bypass the board and eyes. I can't hardly keep the eyes working in a garage, much less when they're getting shot at.
 
They're usually set up on just the N.C. contact in the switch. I utilize the N.O. set to energize a relay and bypass the board and eyes. I can't hardly keep the eyes working in a garage, much less when they're getting shot at.
Tell me about it. The green one faces due west and if there is any dust on the lens, it doesn't work correctly. I should just bypass them and go on with my life. 😁
 
A couple things to keep in mind:

DC motors are easier/cheaper to reverse (changing polarity reverses a DC motor.) Also easy to add a potentiometer for speed control.

Deep cycle marine batteries and solar charger for easy power.

Limit switches are better than optical proximity switches (rain, leaves, etc. can reverse a prox switch.)

If mounted on ground, keep track high enough to stay out of snow, etc. and mow under easy.

Cable for the pull system is heavy and droops. Jacob at Rifles Only uses 550 cord to move his movers. He was a short length of chain attached to the trolley, then to the 550 cord. When the cord stretches, he just takes one more link up.

Use good pulleys with actual sealed bearing for the pull system. Just an axle in a race with no bearing will fail quickly.

If you make your tracks wide enough, you can hang your target out in front of the tracks farther, allowing for spatter not to affect your track or pull system.
 
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I never got around to building mine I should now. Since it's been confirmed that a garage door motor will work I have a spare but was told they will burn up with constant use
 
I never got around to building mine I should now. Since it's been confirmed that a garage door motor will work I have a spare but was told they will burn up with constant use

Ours has been fine. We're running hanging targets on a trolley that moves freely. Much, much less load on the motor than lifting a door.