Been looking at muzzle brakes for my new .308 savage 10fcp. I have been looking at the PWS precision rifle muzzle brake any opinions on it or any other recommendations would be great. Thanks
- Thread starter Thomasfarms
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Re: Muzzle brake for new savage 10fcp
i have become a fan of the rad rapid brake
i have become a fan of the rad rapid brake
Re: Muzzle brake for new savage 10fcp
I have a 10fcp as well, I'm getting ready to send it off to GAP to have them hack it down to 18 or 20" and put a badger fte on.
Should help with the handling in close quarters.
I have a 10fcp as well, I'm getting ready to send it off to GAP to have them hack it down to 18 or 20" and put a badger fte on.
Should help with the handling in close quarters.
Re: Muzzle brake for new savage 10fcp
I cant really compare it to anything exept a badger FTE but that was on a 300 RUM, but I think the PWS brake works splendidly on my tree oh ate
I cant really compare it to anything exept a badger FTE but that was on a 300 RUM, but I think the PWS brake works splendidly on my tree oh ate
Re: Muzzle brake for new savage 10fcp
We have a special on the SAS GEN 1 muzzle brake, can thread and install for you as well if interested pm and I will be glad to assist.
We have a special on the SAS GEN 1 muzzle brake, can thread and install for you as well if interested pm and I will be glad to assist.
Re: Muzzle brake for new savage 10fcp
The Surefire works very well on my 18" m700 and does not have the bulk of others.
The Surefire works very well on my 18" m700 and does not have the bulk of others.
Re: Muzzle brake for new savage 10fcp
Do it right.....
Get a brake that matches the contour of your barrel. Buy a brake and have it turned down to match. You dont need some giant ugly ass piece of metal threaded onto your barrel (unless it's a suppressor and that's different). It's only a .308 so it's not as if the recoil is a pain issue.
Just because it says "Badger FTE" doesnt mean it works that much better than some of the others, however it looks like hell that's for sure. Only thing worse I know of is the JP brakes that look like tank gun barrels. If you need that much of a brake on a big rifle (where it's needed) then go ahead, but not on a .308.
Do it right.....
Get a brake that matches the contour of your barrel. Buy a brake and have it turned down to match. You dont need some giant ugly ass piece of metal threaded onto your barrel (unless it's a suppressor and that's different). It's only a .308 so it's not as if the recoil is a pain issue.
Just because it says "Badger FTE" doesnt mean it works that much better than some of the others, however it looks like hell that's for sure. Only thing worse I know of is the JP brakes that look like tank gun barrels. If you need that much of a brake on a big rifle (where it's needed) then go ahead, but not on a .308.
Re: Muzzle brake for new savage 10fcp
The GAP brake works great and they will do the work also....just a thought
The GAP brake works great and they will do the work also....just a thought
Re: Muzzle brake for new savage 10fcp
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: trevor300wsm</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do it right.....
Get a brake that matches the contour of your barrel. Buy a brake and have it turned down to match. You dont need some giant ugly ass piece of metal threaded onto your barrel (unless it's a suppressor and that's different). It's only a .308 so it's not as if the recoil is a pain issue.
Just because it says "Badger FTE" doesnt mean it works that much better than some of the others, however it looks like hell that's for sure. Only thing worse I know of is the JP brakes that look like tank gun barrels. If you need that much of a brake on a big rifle (where it's needed) then go ahead, but not on a .308. </div></div>
I'm going with the fte based mainly on the fact that I can remove it anytime I wish, say for fclass, or for easy cleaning etc...
As far as looks, you can buy for looks, I'll buy for function, I use my rifle, I could give a shit less if it makes the centerfold spot in the next rifle magazine.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: trevor300wsm</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do it right.....
Get a brake that matches the contour of your barrel. Buy a brake and have it turned down to match. You dont need some giant ugly ass piece of metal threaded onto your barrel (unless it's a suppressor and that's different). It's only a .308 so it's not as if the recoil is a pain issue.
Just because it says "Badger FTE" doesnt mean it works that much better than some of the others, however it looks like hell that's for sure. Only thing worse I know of is the JP brakes that look like tank gun barrels. If you need that much of a brake on a big rifle (where it's needed) then go ahead, but not on a .308. </div></div>
I'm going with the fte based mainly on the fact that I can remove it anytime I wish, say for fclass, or for easy cleaning etc...
As far as looks, you can buy for looks, I'll buy for function, I use my rifle, I could give a shit less if it makes the centerfold spot in the next rifle magazine.
Re: Muzzle brake for new savage 10fcp
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: calling4life</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: trevor300wsm</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do it right.....
Get a brake that matches the contour of your barrel. Buy a brake and have it turned down to match. You dont need some giant ugly ass piece of metal threaded onto your barrel (unless it's a suppressor and that's different). It's only a .308 so it's not as if the recoil is a pain issue.
Just because it says "Badger FTE" doesnt mean it works that much better than some of the others, however it looks like hell that's for sure. Only thing worse I know of is the JP brakes that look like tank gun barrels. If you need that much of a brake on a big rifle (where it's needed) then go ahead, but not on a .308. </div></div>
I'm going with the fte based mainly on the fact that I can remove it anytime I wish, say for fclass, or for easy cleaning etc...
As far as looks, you can buy for looks, I'll buy for function, I use my rifle, I could give a shit less if it makes the centerfold spot in the next rifle magazine.</div></div>
I dont understand what point your trying to make here about being able to remove the brake anytime you want? All my brakes are threaded and turned down to match the contour of my barrels and I can unscrew them anytime I want and reattatch them in just a couple seconds and requires no tools to do so......so explain what you mean?
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: calling4life</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: trevor300wsm</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do it right.....
Get a brake that matches the contour of your barrel. Buy a brake and have it turned down to match. You dont need some giant ugly ass piece of metal threaded onto your barrel (unless it's a suppressor and that's different). It's only a .308 so it's not as if the recoil is a pain issue.
Just because it says "Badger FTE" doesnt mean it works that much better than some of the others, however it looks like hell that's for sure. Only thing worse I know of is the JP brakes that look like tank gun barrels. If you need that much of a brake on a big rifle (where it's needed) then go ahead, but not on a .308. </div></div>
I'm going with the fte based mainly on the fact that I can remove it anytime I wish, say for fclass, or for easy cleaning etc...
As far as looks, you can buy for looks, I'll buy for function, I use my rifle, I could give a shit less if it makes the centerfold spot in the next rifle magazine.</div></div>
I dont understand what point your trying to make here about being able to remove the brake anytime you want? All my brakes are threaded and turned down to match the contour of my barrels and I can unscrew them anytime I want and reattatch them in just a couple seconds and requires no tools to do so......so explain what you mean?
Re: Muzzle brake for new savage 10fcp
my savage fpc 308 came with a break did yours come with one and you wont to upgrade?
my savage fpc 308 came with a break did yours come with one and you wont to upgrade?
Re: Muzzle brake for new savage 10fcp
You don't need to time any of your brakes??
To the poster above, not all 10fcps come w/brakes.
You don't need to time any of your brakes??
To the poster above, not all 10fcps come w/brakes.
Re: Muzzle brake for new savage 10fcp
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: calling4life</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You don't need to time any of your brakes??
To the poster above, not all 10fcps come w/brakes.</div></div>
I can't help but wonder if you really know what that means, otherwise I can't understand why you'd ask that. I clearly stated that I have my brakes turned down to match the contour of my barrel (by a smith) so obviously the smith turning the brake down is also installing it. Once it's timed correctly (by a smith), it screws back on exactly the same everytime. It doesnt matter if you remove it 1000 times, it tightens back up at the exact same place every time. I'm not being a smartass, but are you aware of that? The threads don't change and only align/start at one spot, so since it only starts at one spot, it's always going to finish at the same spot, hence the "timing" on the initial install.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: calling4life</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You don't need to time any of your brakes??
To the poster above, not all 10fcps come w/brakes.</div></div>
I can't help but wonder if you really know what that means, otherwise I can't understand why you'd ask that. I clearly stated that I have my brakes turned down to match the contour of my barrel (by a smith) so obviously the smith turning the brake down is also installing it. Once it's timed correctly (by a smith), it screws back on exactly the same everytime. It doesnt matter if you remove it 1000 times, it tightens back up at the exact same place every time. I'm not being a smartass, but are you aware of that? The threads don't change and only align/start at one spot, so since it only starts at one spot, it's always going to finish at the same spot, hence the "timing" on the initial install.
Re: Muzzle brake for new savage 10fcp
hmmm you've diverted this thread by making a recommendation and tearing down others' choices based on looks and your apparent bitterness towards a name...
So, let me tap out here, let this thread get back on track, I'll give a quote or two that plays into my reasoning behind a simple recommendation. From the Fclass forum.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lowlight</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
The military has budget issues, new sniper rifles that are braked and suppressed, why can't they supplement their training by attending a local F Class match with their issued sniper rifle ? Oh wait, braked and suppressed and they can't remove them -- IE the Surefire which requires them to be timed.
</div></div>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lowlight</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Like my 18.5" Gladius would stand a chance in hell -- not to mention my Surefire brake, which is timed and not meant to be removed. </div></div>
hmmm you've diverted this thread by making a recommendation and tearing down others' choices based on looks and your apparent bitterness towards a name...
So, let me tap out here, let this thread get back on track, I'll give a quote or two that plays into my reasoning behind a simple recommendation. From the Fclass forum.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lowlight</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
The military has budget issues, new sniper rifles that are braked and suppressed, why can't they supplement their training by attending a local F Class match with their issued sniper rifle ? Oh wait, braked and suppressed and they can't remove them -- IE the Surefire which requires them to be timed.
</div></div>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lowlight</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Like my 18.5" Gladius would stand a chance in hell -- not to mention my Surefire brake, which is timed and not meant to be removed. </div></div>
Re: Muzzle brake for new savage 10fcp
My choice was based on simplicity
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HateCA</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Your only option if you want to use a brake that you can remove and swap with a flash hider, and easily time is to get something like the Badger FTE or the RAD brake. </div></div>
My choice was based on simplicity
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: HateCA</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
Your only option if you want to use a brake that you can remove and swap with a flash hider, and easily time is to get something like the Badger FTE or the RAD brake. </div></div>
Re: Muzzle brake for new savage 10fcp
I use a RAD brake on a 7mm mag and Badger FTE on a .308. Both are effective although I prefer the RAD being that it is less obtrusive and cheaper as well. Both come off easily to clean when needed.
I use a RAD brake on a 7mm mag and Badger FTE on a .308. Both are effective although I prefer the RAD being that it is less obtrusive and cheaper as well. Both come off easily to clean when needed.
Re: Muzzle brake for new savage 10fcp
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: calling4life</div><div class="ubbcode-body">hmmm you've diverted this thread by making a recommendation and tearing down others' choices based on looks and your apparent bitterness towards a name...
So, let me tap out here, let this thread get back on track, I'll give a quote or two that plays into my reasoning behind a simple recommendation. From the Fclass forum.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lowlight</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
The military has budget issues, new sniper rifles that are braked and suppressed, why can't they supplement their training by attending a local F Class match with their issued sniper rifle ? Oh wait, braked and suppressed and they can't remove them -- IE the Surefire which requires them to be timed.
</div></div>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lowlight</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Like my 18.5" Gladius would stand a chance in hell -- not to mention my Surefire brake, which is timed and not meant to be removed. </div></div></div></div>
I wasn't trying to be a dick to you and I clearly stated that. I'm sorry if you may have been confused by something or didn't fully understand.
And quoting Frank (Lowlight), doesn't make you right or give you any merit and matters not to me. Do a google search on "How to time a brake". You might get alot of your misconception answered.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: calling4life</div><div class="ubbcode-body">hmmm you've diverted this thread by making a recommendation and tearing down others' choices based on looks and your apparent bitterness towards a name...
So, let me tap out here, let this thread get back on track, I'll give a quote or two that plays into my reasoning behind a simple recommendation. From the Fclass forum.
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lowlight</div><div class="ubbcode-body">
The military has budget issues, new sniper rifles that are braked and suppressed, why can't they supplement their training by attending a local F Class match with their issued sniper rifle ? Oh wait, braked and suppressed and they can't remove them -- IE the Surefire which requires them to be timed.
</div></div>
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Lowlight</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Like my 18.5" Gladius would stand a chance in hell -- not to mention my Surefire brake, which is timed and not meant to be removed. </div></div></div></div>
I wasn't trying to be a dick to you and I clearly stated that. I'm sorry if you may have been confused by something or didn't fully understand.
And quoting Frank (Lowlight), doesn't make you right or give you any merit and matters not to me. Do a google search on "How to time a brake". You might get alot of your misconception answered.
