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Neck dies Bushing vs Collet

1slow01z71

Side of the barn hitter
Full Member
Minuteman
Jul 12, 2012
919
11
Austin, TX
Do the bushing dies really make that big a difference if youre using the same brass from the same lot with the necks turned? I use a lee collet die for my 308 which has worked fine for me. Im finishing gathering components to start working on my 300wm. Ill primarily be shooting 208 amaxs and norma brass. Obviously the bushing dies allow you to set neck tension but does it really matter what the neck tension is if its consistant round to round which I'd assume it wpuld be by using quality brass from the same lot.

Ive had good luck with forster dies so unless someone has an objection I'm planning on buying the ultra micrometer set and then either this die
Forster Precision Plus Bushing Bump Neck Sizer Die 3 Bushings 300
Or
Forster Bench Rest Neck Sizer Die 300 Winchester Mag

I plan to always use brass from the same lot and brand to hopefully minimize load workup when the brass is toast. The goal is 1000yd accuracy with eventual shots at a mile so consistence is very important.
 
My redding type S die was causing me a ton of run out, I switched to a lee collet and redding body die, and the results are very noticeable. Don't know if I had a dud die or what but the type S was giving me up to .008" run off, now under .001" with the lee, I love it. Neck turned norma brass 300 WM. I also had Forster home out a FL die (.3335"), havnt tried it yet though.
 
+1 for lee collet. Cheap and no run out.

Aw man, don't tell him that!

Okay, sure the Lee's work work great but there's learning curve some people who don't know what they're doing never get over. And they aren't expensive. And they're Lee. There just ain't no way to sound elitist when you prefer Lee's neck die just because they work so well rather than a really nice, very high priced and beautifully made bushing die; you jist ain't kool! ;)
 
Thanks, kinda what I was thinking but wanted to check. My 308 as so dang easy to load for but the 300wm has a bit more horsepower and is going to be stretched out further. I ordered the forster just to try over the lee.
 
All I use is the Lee Collet die. No case stretch. It takes a little fine tuning to set neck tension but not a big deal. Have not touched my full length, neck sizer or the bushing neck die for years.
 
Thanks fuzzball. Made me laugh. I laughed at the guy that recommended them to me until I bought a runout gauge. I still use redding shoulder bump die which ain't cheap.
 
Only problem is Lee STILL hasn't made a collet neck-sizing die for the 6.5 Creedmoor or 6.5x47Lapua! Argh!
 
Do you guys use the bullet seater that comes with the 2-die set? It says it's a free floating seater. (free-floating bullet seater)
 
Also, what do you guys use to bump the shoulder back? A FL die would also size the length of the case, correct?
 
" A FL die would also size the length of the case, correct?"

Not quite. An FL die affects case length by squeezing the body slightly which makes the case longer which demands the shoulder be set back a tad and that means the neck get longer and it has to be trimmed. So ... the FL (or body/bump) die 'controls' the head to shoulder length but it cannot control case length, as such.

A "bump" (body) die is basically an FL die with the neck portion bored out enough so the neck isn't affected but the body and shoulder position are. Body dies are low volume products so the retail prices are indeed high. I'm fortunate to have a small (9" x 20") old South Bend lathe in my home shop so I bore/drill cheap (flea market) FL size dies to make my own body dies and have made a couple for others for a small cost. It requires both a lathe, or at least a sturdy drill press, and some reshaped carbide drill bits so the do-it-yourself thing isn't pracrical for most reloaders. It's likely better for most guys to just pay for Forster or Redding body dies and add the Lee neck dies.
 
Also, what do you guys use to bump the shoulder back? A FL die would also size the length of the case, correct?

I like the Lee collet as well. The only problem I've found is the brass neck thickness need to be the same to have the same neck tension on the bullet. To get that you have to turn each case, which I believe takes more life from the case than the a fore mentioned Redding neck & bushing set up.
What I do is a 4 step process for once fired.
step 1. )Lee collet size / decap
step 2.) Redding Body die, (slight bump of the shoulder)
step 3.) neck turn
step 4.) make a slightly tighter run through the collet.

After all my once fired brass gets that 4 steps, from then on its steps 1 & 2.
 
I like the Lee collet as well. The only problem I've found is the brass neck thickness need to be the same to have the same neck tension on the bullet. To get that you have to turn each case, which I believe takes more life from the case than the a fore mentioned Redding neck & bushing set up.
What I do is a 4 step process for once fired.
step 1. )Lee collet size / decap
step 2.) Redding Body die, (slight bump of the shoulder)
step 3.) neck turn
step 4.) make a slightly tighter run through the collet.

After all my once fired brass gets that 4 steps, from then on its steps 1 & 2.

This is WRONG and exactly opposite of the truth! Think about it like this: with the lee you are pressing against a mandrel that doesnt care what size the OUTSIDE of the neck is only the diameter of the mandrel. Same internal neck size everytime regardless of the brass being turned or not and regardless of its outer uniformity! Now take the bushing die: its squeezing the outside down with no care of the inside dimensions. If you have ununiform neck thickness then you have ununiform internal dimensions which will change your neck tension! Bushing dies are great if you want to turn your brass but the collet is a better way to skin that cat all the way around! If you need more neck tension just chuck the mandrel up in a drill and use some progressively fine sand paper to achieve the desired result. Also, you can modify a .260 die to work with a creedmoor or 6.5x47. I modify them a lot. As you can tell, i REALLY like the lee collet die.

Chuck
 
This is WRONG and exactly opposite of the truth! Think about it like this: with the lee you are pressing against a mandrel that doesnt care what size the OUTSIDE of the neck is only the diameter of the mandrel. Same internal neck size everytime regardless of the brass being turned or not and regardless of its outer uniformity! Now take the bushing die: its squeezing the outside down with no care of the inside dimensions. If you have ununiform neck thickness then you have ununiform internal dimensions which will change your neck tension! Bushing dies are great if you want to turn your brass but the collet is a better way to skin that cat all the way around! If you need more neck tension just chuck the mandrel up in a drill and use some progressively fine sand paper to achieve the desired result. Also, you can modify a .260 die to work with a creedmoor or 6.5x47. I modify them a lot. As you can tell, i REALLY like the lee collet die.

Chuck

Hate to burst your bubble, but the only way to adjust neck tension in the collet is to tighten it down for more cam over. The mandrel does stay the same throughout, that's obvious, however if you have different thicknesses of brass neck, it will make the neck tension different. That isn't "Rocket Surgery" or "Brain science".
It's physics. ;)
 
Hate to burst your bubble, but the only way to adjust neck tension in the collet is to tighten it down for more cam over. The mandrel does stay the same throughout, that's obvious, however if you have different thicknesses of brass neck, it will make the neck tension different. That isn't "Rocket Surgery" or "Brain science".
It's physics. ;)

Explain to us all how decreasing the diameter of the mandrel doesnt increase neck tension. also, enlighten everyone on your neck tension "theory" and how you can squeeze something against a fixed madrel and make its internal dimension different! cant wait for you to disprove what i said a out the bushing die........You havnt a clue as to what your talking about.

Chuck
 
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Explain to us all how decreasing the diameter of the mandrel doesnt increase neck tension. also, enlighten everyone on your neck tension "theory" and how you can squeeze something against a fixed madrel and make its internal dimension different! cant wait for you to disprove what i said a out the bushing die........You havnt a clue as to what your talking about.

Chuck

Well chuck, because squeezing the brass (which is a malleable alloy) from the outside in is exactly what creates the tension on the bullet. Who suggested anything at all about decreasing the diameter of the mandrel besides you??
How do you adjust neck tension in a Collet.
 
Well chuck, because squeezing the brass (which is a malleable alloy) from the outside in is exactly what creates the tension on the bullet. Who suggested anything at all about decreasing the diameter of the mandrel besides you??
How do you adjust neck tension in a Collet.

By DECREASING the diameter of the mandrel the collet squeezes against! Your squeezing a variable outside against a constant inside. Which sets tension, the outside or the INSIDE? I dont know how to simplify this any further for you. Think about a hammer forged barrel. What sets the bore diameter, the outside barrel dimensions or the "mandrel" it is pushed against?

Chuck
 
By DECREASING the diameter of the mandrel the collet squeezes against! Your squeezing a variable outside against a constant inside. Which sets tension, the outside or the INSIDE? I dont know how to simplify this any further for you. Think about a hammer forged barrel. What sets the bore diameter, the outside barrel dimensions or the "mandrel" it is pushed against?

Chuck

No one has said a smaller mandrel won't make a tighter bullet fit. Section 2 of Lee's instruction says you can polish or special order smaller mandrels. The issue is you have stated that tightening the collet down won't do the same, when Lee's Own instruction guide says it will. Toward the end of the first paragraph on item 2 in the instructions, it states, " Extra bullet grip can be obtained by screwing in the die an additional quarter turn.
But I suppose you know more than the manufacturer of the Lee Collet Die.
Want different neck tension? Just use new brass on the same die setting you've been using on brass with several firings. Explain why the neck tension is different when the mandrel used is the same................whew! You're as hard-headed as I. :eek:
 
Show me where i said that the collet had nothing to do with it. Also, you are correct that work hardened brass will have a different neck tension than new brass. That applies to a collet die AND a bushing die. You stated brass needed to be turned for uniform neck tension with a collet die. THAT STATEMENT IS WRONG CONCERNING A COLLET DIE but does apply to a bushing die. You just dont understand and probably never will.

Chuck
 
I actually could see how a variance in neck thickness could cause different tension. Think if the collet only squeezed on the thicker side, but didn't push the thinner side against the mandrel. It could also be possible that the thinner side will spring back more than the thicker side.
 
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the collet has independent fingers therefore all sides are squeezed against the mandrel. perhaps the thinner or thicker side MAY spring back to a different degree but what is there is
a .0015 difference around the case and the thicker side springs back .00025 more or less. is that better or worse than pushing that same .0015 towards an unsupported "hole" as you do with a bushing. if you cant see which is more likely to produce less runout, I am truly sorry.

chuck
 
You're kidding yourself if you think you can more accurately control neck tension with a collet die over a bushing die.

With bushing dies one can easily adjust for brass-wall thickness, different makes of brass and amount of springback the cases exhibit.

As for where that wall-thickness variance goes? When the bullet is seated, it is back on the outside of the case.

FWIW, most Benchrest and F-Class shooters I know use FL bushing (Whidden, Redding, Wilson, Forster) dies for uniformity and we're annealing after every 2nd firing. If brass doesn't have to be turned for a tight-spec chamber, probably fewer than 25% turn their Lapua brass.

But if someone is happy with the results they're getting, more power to 'em. :D
 
the collet has independent fingers therefore all sides are squeezed against the mandrel. perhaps the thinner or thicker side MAY spring back to a different degree but what is there is
a .0015 difference around the case and the thicker side springs back .00025 more or less. is that better or worse than pushing that same .0015 towards an unsupported "hole" as you do with a bushing. if you cant see which is more likely to produce less runout, I am truly sorry.

chuck

I already know that, I use a collet die. I know most competitions use bushing dies, I never had any luck with my redding type S die.
 
You're kidding yourself if you think you can more accurately control neck tension with a collet die over a bushing die.

With bushing dies one can easily adjust for brass-wall thickness, different makes of brass and amount of springback the cases exhibit.

As for where that wall-thickness variance goes? When the bullet is seated, it is back on the outside of the case.

FWIW, most Benchrest and F-Class shooters I know use FL bushing (Whidden, Redding, Wilson, Forster) dies for uniformity and we're annealing after every 2nd firing. If brass doesn't have to be turned for a tight-spec chamber, probably fewer than 25% turn their Lapua brass.

But if someone is happy with the results they're getting, more power to 'em. :D

your kidding yourself if you think a bushing controls "the amount of springback a case exibits"! if you agree that any outer neck discrepancies are pushed to the inside with a bushing die, tell me how you can have uniform neck tension with a bushing die without turning case necks to a uniform thickness. not so with a collet die. I really couldn't care less what you or anyone else uses, but there are some fallacies being passed as fact and I don't like that.

chuck
 
I already know that, I use a collet die. I know most competitions use bushing dies, I never had any luck with my redding type S die.

if you already know a collet die uses independent fingers why would you make the statement that only the thicker side would be pushed against the mandrel? think about how it works.

chuck
 
Nice reading comprehension .....

Of course bushing dies (or ANY) don't control spring back, annealing does.

As I said, the runout is pushed to the outside when seating. Regardless of the sizing dies used.
Turning brass for a standard chamber is wasted work.
 
Ah, it's fun to watch as the half-truths fly on "neck tension" and collet vs. bushing neck sizing is discussed.

First and biggest thing that's missed is the inside diameter of a neck is only a moderate part of bullet grip. What's called "tension" is what machinists call an "interference fit". Any neck diameter smaller than about one thou is meaningless because the brass simply deforms as a bullet is seated. Within the elasticity of that one thou of interference fit, the thickness and hardness of the brass itself controls bullet grip and it varies by individual cases within the same box; we can easily feel it in the variation of seating resistance from round to round of carefully neck sized new cases. That uncontrollable difference in the cases easily negates all the agonised anal care in finding just the right bushing for just the right "tension" of each neck.

The spring back from normal brass work hardening will slightly change the final inside diameter of collet sized necks each time they're cycled. Exactly the same thing will happen with bushing sizers. About all we can do about it is to anneal after each few cycles. And it's likely more cases are destroyed for fine accuracy by annealing than are helped - annealing just isn't all that easy to do precisely.

All a bushing die can do is insure the outside diameter is close to the bushing diameter - that's generally about a thou larger than the bushing. And all that means is any variation in neck thickness WILL be pushed inside and the "neck tension" will vary that much, round to round, UNLESS the necks are turned full circumference and to identical thickness. For BR people who have chamber necks that demand turning necks thinner just to chamber the cartridges, that's fine and it was for them bushing dies were first made. SAAMI chamber necks are oversized enough that very much case neck turning makes an already sloppy chamber fit even sloppier.

Lee's collets provide straighter necks with more consistancy than many of us have ever achieved otherwis, and does it with any cases. But it's at its best with lightly skim turned necks to eliminate the worst of neck thickness variations. And the inside ID is always quite consistant if not perfect. Anyone thinking Lee's collet will squeeze one side of a neck down more than the other hasn't a clue.

Leaning harder on a Lee collet die can/may reduce the necks maybe another half thousant. That's enough to make a different feel of seating but I haven't seen it affect accuracy. And pushing harder does present the possibility of stripping the aluminum top cap right out of the die; that's not a flaw, it's a carefully designed protection feature to prevent serious damage to the die body or press.

Bushing sizers were invented by BR guys needing to deal with tightly fitted chambers in their single shot rigs requiring highly processed cases and very low bullet grip. But, as so often happens, others happily figgered if a bushing is good for BR it must be great for them; as with a lot of such blind 'follow the accuracy leaders' ideas, it's really not true. Their rigs and ours are much different and our needs aren't well served by following their very specalized paths. But the DIE MAKERS are quite happy to provide anything the market will pay for so....buy what you want, it's out there just for you! :)

Lee's collet dies were made for the rest of us and our SAAMI chambered rifles.
 
1+++ on fuzzball. Lee collet, then when necessary the body die. My various calibers went from .002 and/or .008 in the same batch, to .001 or .0015. Don't look back.
 
I just want to know if I made the right or wrong choice today in ordering a lee collet and redding body die......
SOOO confusing!
 
I just want to know if I made the right or wrong choice today in ordering a lee collet and redding body die......
SOOO confusing!

That is an excellent choice. Read the instructions through. Dealing with concentric neck thickness and the possibility that the neck could be slight off center is somewhat covered in the #2 section as well under Option(not in bold) : "Even greater accuracy can be obtained by rotating the case one-half turn and sizing a second time" which is what you need to do if you don't use the process of turning, and using a dies with bushing.

Excellent response Fuzzball ! There was nothing fuzzy about that!
 
+1 for Fuzzball's science.

Using a LCD and Redding body die for my 300wm I get zero to 0.002" runout a lot more times than not using any brass ranging from cheap federal blue box to hornady match. Also I'm also only using the plain old Hornady bullet seating die.

Using the the Type S bushing die and competition seater for the 338LM on Lapua brass I am getting anywhere from 0.002-0.003 regularly with a few now and then below 0.002". I do not turn necks.

Truth of my matter is that if Lee made a collect for the 338LM I'd be first in line to buy it.

But I also agree with whomever said it above that the LCD does have an inherent learning curve to it and also ,for me at least, all 3 of my LCD's (308,30-06 and 300wm) required some minor polishing and greasing to operate smoothly. But for the money one spends could hardly be beat.
 
Ah, it's fun to watch as the half-truths fly on "neck tension" and collet vs. bushing neck sizing is discussed.

First and biggest thing that's missed is the inside diameter of a neck is only a moderate part of bullet grip. What's called "tension" is what machinists call an "interference fit". Any neck diameter smaller than about one thou is meaningless because the brass simply deforms as a bullet is seated. Within the elasticity of that one thou of interference fit, the thickness and hardness of the brass itself controls bullet grip and it varies by individual cases within the same box; we can easily feel it in the variation of seating resistance from round to round of carefully neck sized new cases. That uncontrollable difference in the cases easily negates all the agonised anal care in finding just the right bushing for just the right "tension" of each neck.

The spring back from normal brass work hardening will slightly change the final inside diameter of collet sized necks each time they're cycled. Exactly the same thing will happen with bushing sizers. About all we can do about it is to anneal after each few cycles. And it's likely more cases are destroyed for fine accuracy by annealing than are helped - annealing just isn't all that easy to do precisely.

All a bushing die can do is insure the outside diameter is close to the bushing diameter - that's generally about a thou larger than the bushing. And all that means is any variation in neck thickness WILL be pushed inside and the "neck tension" will vary that much, round to round, UNLESS the necks are turned full circumference and to identical thickness. For BR people who have chamber necks that demand turning necks thinner just to chamber the cartridges, that's fine and it was for them bushing dies were first made. SAAMI chamber necks are oversized enough that very much case neck turning makes an already sloppy chamber fit even sloppier.

Lee's collets provide straighter necks with more consistancy than many of us have ever achieved otherwis, and does it with any cases. But it's at its best with lightly skim turned necks to eliminate the worst of neck thickness variations. And the inside ID is always quite consistant if not perfect. Anyone thinking Lee's collet will squeeze one side of a neck down more than the other hasn't a clue.

Leaning harder on a Lee collet die can/may reduce the necks maybe another half thousant. That's enough to make a different feel of seating but I haven't seen it affect accuracy. And pushing harder does present the possibility of stripping the aluminum top cap right out of the die; that's not a flaw, it's a carefully designed protection feature to prevent serious damage to the die body or press.

Bushing sizers were invented by BR guys needing to deal with tightly fitted chambers in their single shot rigs requiring highly processed cases and very low bullet grip. But, as so often happens, others happily figgered if a bushing is good for BR it must be great for them; as with a lot of such blind 'follow the accuracy leaders' ideas, it's really not true. Their rigs and ours are much different and our needs aren't well served by following their very specalized paths. But the DIE MAKERS are quite happy to provide anything the market will pay for so....buy what you want, it's out there just for you! :)

Lee's collet dies were made for the rest of us and our SAAMI chambered rifles.

Fuzzy understands what i am saying and i agree with what he says. ADVANCE, to agree with fuzzy and disagree with me is rediculous! Read my posts, and read fuzzys post. You and KILLSHOT have worn my patience thin.

Chuck
 
I have seen quite a few references to the LCD scratching up the case neck, how prevalent is this and what to do about it?

Polish the fingers somehow?
 
Fuzzy understands what i am saying and i agree with what he says. ADVANCE, to agree with fuzzy and disagree with me is rediculous! Read my posts, and read fuzzys post. You and KILLSHOT have worn my patience thin.

Chuck

Fuzzy probably does understand what you're saying. Do you?
So explain why there are different neck tensions in the same lot's of brass that go through the same process of prep every time?
And while you're at it, look back to my first response to the originator of this thread to find the answer.
Uniform neck thickness is the starting point for consistent neck tension.
 
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I like the Lee collet as well. The only problem I've found is the brass neck thickness need to be the same to have the same neck tension on the bullet. To get that you have to turn each case, which I believe takes more life from the case than the a fore mentioned Redding neck & bushing set up.
What I do is a 4 step process for once fired.
step 1. )Lee collet size / decap
step 2.) Redding Body die, (slight bump of the shoulder)
step 3.) neck turn
step 4.) make a slightly tighter run through the collet.

After all my once fired brass gets that 4 steps, from then on its steps 1 & 2.

You never answered a single question i posed to you. Here you state for the collet die to provide consistent neck tension the brAss needs to be turned and state that "takes life out of the brass" compared to a bushing die which you evidently feel doesnt need turned brass to be effective or take the life out of the brass! I disproved this statement with simple reason. A collet die will give you more uniform neck tension and less runout with unturned brass than a bushing die will. I explained this to you in several ways and you argue. Fuzzy says the same thing and you agree. Your a waste of time and i am done.

Chuck
 
I have seen quite a few references to the LCD scratching up the case neck, how prevalent is this and what to do about it?

Polish the fingers somehow?

Polishing fixed the issue for the most part for me but I still get it for the most part on the 30-06 die depending on how far into the press the die is screwed. Not so much scratching though just petal marks.

When I was first learning the die I was getting the die stuck and it was causing some scratching as well but after polishing the die a bit more and using a little lithium grease outside the petals the problem went away.
 
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You never answered a single question i posed to you. Here you state for the collet die to provide consistent neck tension the brAss needs to be turned and state that "takes life out of the brass" compared to a bushing die which you evidently feel doesnt need turned brass to be effective or take the life out of the brass! I disproved this statement with simple reason. A collet die will give you more uniform neck tension and less runout with unturned brass than a bushing die will. I explained this to you in several ways and you argue. Fuzzy says the same thing and you agree. Your a waste of time and i am done.

Chuck

Since you're done with me, I'll continue to answer.
I stated, The only problem I've found is the brass neck thickness need to be the same to have the same neck tension on the bullet.

Are you saying that isn't true with the collet die?
 
I believe fuzzy touched on why uniform necks are far more critical with a bushing die than a collet die. I explained in detail why that is in another post but evidently you cant understand me so ask him!

Chuck
 
I believe fuzzy touched on why uniform necks are far more critical with a bushing die than a collet die. I explained in detail why that is in another post but evidently you cant understand me so ask him!

Chuck

You provoked this exchange with this statement,
"This is WRONG and exactly opposite of the truth!"
My response to bruddah was numbered by process. So please share with me which process (by number) is wrong and exactly opposite of the truth). Explain, I might have to change my process if you're convincing.

Please
 
I stand by that statement. You stated that in order for a collet die to provide uniform neck tension cases need to be turned which decreases the life of your brass. Then you made it appear these arent issues with bushing dies. Well, the opposite is true. I explained in previous posts that the collet die will provide uniform tension and far less runout with unturned necks because the outer neck runout doesnt come into play when your squeezing against a uniform mandrel. Fuzzy stated this created almost perfect interior neck dimension and you agreed! What do you think is more important to tension and runout, interior or exterior dimensions? I also explained that a bushing die relies on perfectly concentric necks because you are pushing any flaws to the interior of the case and that creates differnt tensions and runout. Fuzzy said the same thing and you agreed! He exlained why the interior dimension is more important to runout and tension just as i did and you agreed! You are upset that i told you your info was wrong and i proved it. Are you hurting yourself by turning necks with a collet die? Your working your brass more than necessary and wasting a lot of time. Do i give a shit? Nope!

Chuck
 
Geez...

I'm happy to report that my completely benchrest prepped and neck turned brass, which is annealed on a Benchsource machine using tempilac, then FL sized through a custom Warner bushing bump die and fed through a custom seater - matched to my own custom chambering reamer, produces almost no runout and nil variance in neck tension. Too top it off any troublesome brass has long since been discarded.

Can you believe it??? I still miss on occasion though, LOL.
 
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I stand by that statement. You stated that in order for a collet die to provide uniform neck tension cases need to be turned which decreases the life of your brass. Then you made it appear these arent issues with bushing dies. Well, the opposite is true. I explained in previous posts that the collet die will provide uniform tension and far less runout with unturned necks because the outer neck runout doesnt come into play when your squeezing against a uniform mandrel. Fuzzy stated this created almost perfect interior neck dimension and you agreed! What do you think is more important to tension and runout, interior or exterior dimensions? I also explained that a bushing die relies on perfectly concentric necks because you are pushing any flaws to the interior of the case and that creates differnt tensions and runout. Fuzzy said the same thing and you agreed! He exlained why the interior dimension is more important to runout and tension just as i did and you agreed! You are upset that i told you your info was wrong and i proved it. Are you hurting yourself by turning necks with a collet die? Your working your brass more than necessary and wasting a lot of time. Do i give a shit? Nope!

Chuck

I turn each case one time per life of the case in order to get it to a common starting point for all the cases, in the sequence I listed. Many of the cases require almost no turning to get to a common thickness for the total lot. I have had some cases that have a heap load of extra brass on one side of the case neck than the other. From that point on it's Redding body die and the Lee Collet.
If I inferred that cases last longer by using the redding bushing neck sizer, that was incorrect. Any metal re-sized or shaped by means of force / friction will in fact reduce the life of that metal.
Cases being neck sized by the Lee Collet are in fact the cases that live the longest.
 
Great info, some of it haha.

How do you use the lee collet die on new norma brass with .003" neck tension? Should I just expand it with the collet die, or expand it with my K&M neck turner and skim the necks?

I want it to be consistant I.D
For 0X and 1X, not .003 than .001.

Thanks