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Need a muzzle brake please

C

Chad44

Sergeant
Full Member
Minuteman
Jun 28, 2012
110
2
44
Castle rock, CO
I'm wanting a brake for my build. It's a 7mm-08 with a broughton #5 contour. I want one with side ports not bottom. For hunting the 360* style brakes kick up too much dust for my liking. Not sure if I'm explaining this right so let me know if it's not clear. Thanks.
Chad
 
I got a question, do muzzle breaks really put more wear and tear on scopes? I spoke with a old guy at the range today who was firing a 300 magnum with break on it, he says he has never had a scope get destroyed and that muzzle breaks hurting scopes is a myth.
 
I think there is a theory that a muzzle brake somehow abruptly changes the direction of the recoil pulse (from rear to forward) like spring air rifles supposedly do. There could be truth to it, I really haven't considered it important enough to find out. My .50 has a brake on it and nothing's broken yet. The answer is buy a decent scope it isn't going to be an issue.
 
jagged77 said:
I think there is a theory that a muzzle brake somehow abruptly changes the direction of the recoil pulse (from rear to forward) like spring air rifles supposedly do. There could be truth to it, I really haven't considered it important enough to find out. My .50 has a brake on it and nothing's broken yet. The answer is buy a decent scope it isn't going to be an issue.
Click to expand...

That's what I have read. They say the recoil reduction is a violent alteration of the normal recoil. The old guy I talked to says there's nothing to fear from the muzzle breaks, other than loud noise and a shock wave.
 
Last edited:
ross shueller brakes are very effective and pretty cheap too. he will turn it down to the o.d. of your barrel, and send it out super fast
 
I've heard nothing but good things about ross shueller brakes.
 
Jered with APA makes some fine brakes as well, Fat Bastard, Little Bastard, etc...
 
I use a Holland Radial Baffle on my 7mm rem mag, Tikka Lite. Fits your bill of no bottom ports. It definitely helps me be able to see hits with a light weight rifle.
 
This:

R+D Precision - Mrad


Because:

Best looking (in my opinion)

Very easy to remove for cleaning, muzzle brakes always catch cleaning patches which is annoying to me..
Also for direct thread type suppressors

Effective as any brake I've used
 
I love the kind that aren't on there. You know....where its just plain ol muzzle crown and no giant ass blast?
 
.50 cal rifles were notorious for eating scopes that were not robustly made, and had the optical elements glued in solidly. There were many a shooter who discovered this in the '90's before mfg's started to build them stronger. There is a 21 g reversal in recoil/muzzle brake impulse the rifle goes through. It was this 21 g back and forth that would shake the scopes apart. Now most are made sufficiently strong to withstand this, though not all. Back then Nightforce (Target Scopes, NXS not out until '98 I believe) and the original Leupold Mk 4 were the only 2 that we could count on to consistently survive.
 
Thanks for the info guys. Do I need a 7mm brake opening for a 7mm rifle? I've been told a 30 caliber brake is what I use is this correct?
 
I'm no gunsmith but from what I've gathered is that the brake needs to me less than or equal to .30mm over the diameter of the gun caliber to be at its most effective. However I personally don't see why a 7.62mm brake wouldn't make for a pretty effective brake for 7mm.
 
I have a Badger thruster on my 300WM and like it a lot for hunting - minimal dust signature. My rifle has a bartlien #4 countour so a thruster with a broughton #5 would look reeeal nice.
 
goodgorilla said:
That's what I have read. They say the recoil reduction is a violent alteration of the normal recoil. The old guy I talked to says there's nothing to fear from the muzzle breaks, other than loud noise and a shock wave.
Click to expand...

I used to believe that, but if you solve the motion behavior the peak acceleration happens when the chamber pressure is peaked and the bullet is still in the barrel. The brake's behavior puts a force in the opposite direction but it's not as high as the initial recoil pulse and the "braking force" doesn't overcome the recoil force, nor is it attached directly to the scope, so the end result is lower felt recoil by both the scope and the shooter.

ARC's owner and I went through this in detail a couple of times and then demonstrated it while working on the M3 G2's & G3's by using light hunting rifles in mag calibers.

Long story short, the old guy at the range is right, rock on with the brake.
 
This thread inspired me to finally go and drop off my Remington 700 PSS at R&D Precision for the MRAD brake. Been procrastinating about it for years!!!
 
Hey man if you don't have any threading on your rifle barrel I strongly suggest checking out Kahntrol Solutions clamp on brakes. I got one mounted on my .300 and it works a charm. Hope this satisfies you
 
I have heard good things about ethe Kahntrol.

But when I priced the, at some $150, I could get the Schuler ($45), installed ($125) for not much more, AND have a threaded, recrowned barrel.
 
goodgorilla said:
I got a question, do muzzle breaks really put more wear and tear on scopes? I spoke with a old guy at the range today who was firing a 300 magnum with break on it, he says he has never had a scope get destroyed and that muzzle breaks hurting scopes is a myth.
Click to expand...
If a muzzle break causes your scope to break, then it was a piece of crap to start with and no great loss. Think of it like the break did you a favor!!!
 
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