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Need advice on a build for a hunting rifle 6.5 cm or 308 carbon fiber or stainless steel barrel & and a good stock McMillan or similar?

Some other considerations that put the odds in your favor are;

#1 how little wind drift a projectile gives compared another. A good comparison would be comparing a 168 grain 30 cal to a 168 grain 7mm. It's significant!

#2 how fast is a projectile going when it gets to the animal. Guess which bullet above will arrive sooner and with more energy - with less wind drift.

High BC going fast = Less windage needed and potentially more energy to drive through to the vitals. Two of the most overlooked aspects of success at distance.

Nobody is perfect at reading wind or can place a perfect shot all the time. A little extra help can make a big difference.

Last month a friend shot a Coues whitetail at 580Y in what seemed like calm conditions with his 6.5-4s. 143's at 3007 fps. He hit it just barely off the chest in the gut because there was an undetectable slight wind between him and the deer that pushed the bullet 5" off POA to the right where the lungs meet the gut. The second shot finished it. His was a spike not much bigger than a German Sheppard. Had he been shooting a 308 the result would have been a gut shot or back leg.

When I shoot my 308 with 155's in 10 mph-ish winds it's not easy hitting a 10" plate at 675Y. With my 6.5 Saum, 140 hybrids at 3175 fps, it's not hard keeping them on the plate. Chances are I'll make a cold bore hit with the 6.5, chances are I'll hit left or right with the 308.

Very good points.

Even though I shoot a lot of matches in the West were we get significant winds and topography and really feel connected to my match calibers and they are fast and have a ok BC; My 6.5 is my 400 and under gun. Although if conditions are perfect, I might push it a bit.

I switch to a magnum below if I feel the range will be greater. Here I used lighter stock to keep the weight down on the longer barrel and long action.
63E4BE04-051C-4D9D-B5B4-48E392A73713.jpeg

Compared to the 6.5 build (my favorite now - had a #2 SS Bartlien before the recent Proof build) below. Both weigh about the same, but the 6.5 has such low recoil my self spotting even in wonkie positions is easy. It is all a balancing act, too light or too big and you pay for it as a shooter.
CC33AA23-17DF-44C5-80FA-13376FD2A68D.jpeg

You can save 1lbs by choosing a Bartlien 1 and another 1.5# but using a non-adjustable hunter elite shell, but then you might give up good cheek weld with a scope above and even working up loads can be a challenge as the pencil barrel heats.
 
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I really don't get why people are so set on building a 2-in-1 range/hunting rifle.

Unless you plan on sitting around for 7-hour stints, a +10 lb rifle really isn't practical for most types of hunts, especially mountain hunts where you're moving a lot. Also, if this hunting becomes anything more than a casual pastime, then your rifle well get abused and beat up....I see no point in spending top $ building a match rifle only to abuse it during long treks through the woods and bad weather.

Get a moderately used .30-06 or .308 rifle, practice at the range, and work towards taking the animal at closer ranges (200-400 yards). Also, do some reading on real-world ballistic results (Nathan Foster's ballistic studies book is a good starting point). Don't kid yourself into thinking that you're going to immediately get into hunting and start taking 600 yard shots....those shots are not easy in real world conditions, and you shouldn't bother with them until you've gotten some experience under your belt.
 
I am looking for recommendations on building a hunting rifle that I could take to a range occasionally. As far as hunting, Large game such as deer to elk. I am new to this sport and want to collect parts for my build, any help would be appreciated.

If you’re never going to compete, save yourself a lot of research time and some money and get one of these. It will be plenty accurate for hunting and you can actually go start shooting and training for your hunt instead of researching forums.

https://www.sako.fi/sites/default/files/SAKO_A7_ROUGHTECH RANGE.pdf
 
I really don't get why people are so set on building a 2-in-1 range/hunting rifle.

I don't disagree with the logic for a new shooter, except starting out with a hard kicking caliber in a light gun...

But I am going to explain why I like a gun that is like what I shoot most and can double for a field match were you might hike 10 miles, sence it seems to be something you do not "get".

Ok, so lets say you build a buy a 7lbs 30-06.. Put a real scope on it, a real sling, a real bipod and rings, base maybe a cheek riser what does that light gun weigh now.. Probably over 10 lbs.. so we really are talking about 2 lbs.

I shoot thousands of rounds and a couple of barrels a year, either spinning up for a match or shooting them like others on here.. As fast as you can tell me the distance and wind I bet I can tell you my wind hold as close as the solver will predict in my head. Am I going to be more successful with that cheap ass gun that I shoot less than a box of ammo a year? No the confidence alone will cause issues.

I'd rather add 2lbs to my gun and take it off in my pack, stove tent, bag than from my gun. BTW what does your pack weigh that is capable of packing out 100lbs of meat yet big enough to carry the essentials for for a few days? Many packs in this category are 7-9lbs empty.. Mine is just over 4. my 2 person tent is <20oz, my 20F 900down bag weighs only 1 lbs. So I can carry a 20lbs pack kitted were many other are over well over 30lbs..

Anyway, hope this helps with the logic of why.. BTW my son has been on a 6 day hunt and I am hoping to meet up with him tonight for another 3 days and we are using the stupid guns in the images..
 
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Ok, so lets say you build a buy a 7lbs 30-06.. Put a real scope on it, a real sling, a real bipod and rings, base maybe a cheek riser what does that light gun weigh now.. Probably over 10 lbs.. so we really are talking about 2 lbs.

Oh for the MEN that had a Lyman American 1" 4X on their 30-06 with a steel but plate and were successful without shooting past 300yds. Don't make em like that anymore, the men or the rifles.
 
Just buy a Christensen Arms Ridgeline (or even Mesa) rifle. Comes with a muzzle brake (if you need one), is designed for hunting and for under 2 grand comes with a sub MOA guarantee.
 
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Just buy a Christensen Arms Ridgeline (or even Mesa) rifle. Comes with a muzzle brake (if you need one), is designed for hunting and for under 2 grand comes with a sub MOA guarantee.
those are nice; but even this 6.5lbs carbon barreled gun is going to weigh about 10 lbs once you add a scope setup like in their add, a good sling and a bipod. Still not setup to use a tripod. And the comb is still a bit short for prone.

It would be great if people gave the weight of the true kit.

9274E150-0043-4429-8C45-ED77F11B2660.jpeg


0EFF90F0-5453-499C-BFA9-4CB1F8B962FB.jpeg
 
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That scope is 22 oz and the rings will be 4-6 I could see it being 8.5lbs with a sling
 
That scope is 22 oz and the rings will be 4-6 I could see it being 8.5lbs with a sling
Weight your sling, especially if it is a nice arm loop type and has QD buckles

I’ve weighed a bunch of mine some are over 1lbs, the 20 minute base is a couple, caps and a Harris is about a 1lbs.

That scope is light, most are 24oz + and the only one seen with all the options I want is 28.

Just seems like just a hair over 3lbs for the addition stuff is fairly realistic.
 
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those are nice; but even this 6.5lbs carbon barreled gun is going to weigh about 10 lbs once you add a scope setup like in their add, a good sling and a bipod. Still not setup to use a tripod. And the comb is still a bit short for prone.

It would be great if people gave the weight of the true kit.

View attachment 6997156

View attachment 6997157

Yea, I wasn't trying to get in on the weight argument. Different people tolerate different weights. I'd say 6-7 pounds is about standard for a naked hunting rifle and CA makes real nice guns. I just don't see the need to custom build a "hunting and occasional range" gun when there are options like this out there. Now if your thinking about shooting competitively sure by all means, but for most people (not all) their "hunting" rifle is a safe queen for the majority of the year.
 
Some guys say that a 6.5 will punch a small hole in the animal, and they will run forever, and a 308 will leave a large exit hole. I wanted to hear from people with real life experience about taking large game at longer distances to clear this up. I like the fact that 308 comes in more varieties and is more available, but drops faster than a 6.5. So I am up against the fence! To make things worse, I have been reading about the 6.5 prc, that sounds good! What to do?

Well you'll get varied opinions on this, and I suggest in weighing them you consider whether the giver of the opinion acknowledges that it is their opinion and others may differ, or if they feel the need to degrade those who disagree with them and claim to be the sole proprietor of the TRUTH. That's the mark of a blowhard (or a liberal).

My experience says wider, heavier bullets make bigger holes with deeper penetrations. A .22 long rifle at 100 yards will enter the lungs of an elk between the ribs and it will die....eventually. A 338 Edge will liquify its chest cavity at that range and it will die a heck of a lot quicker.

I would not consider either cartridge you mention a 600 yard elk rifle. I would simply discard a 6.5, and the 380Win is getting light on energy. A handloaded 30-06 will get you in the neighborhood, and a 300WM is perfect for the job. The rifle you are building sounds like a 400-500 yard gun. Elk live in tough places and you simple don't want them to travel. I've shot two elk at such ranges, one at 638 and another around 730. The former with a 300WM and the latter with a 338 Edge. After a few seasons watching and sometimes using my 300WM the two local guys I hunt with in that unit switch from a 7mmRM and a 270 to a 300WM and 338 Weatherby respectively. Their original rifles were fine for what they did at the time, as they didn't shoot beyond 300 yards.

When you go to LRH.com you will see a lot of big 338s and 300s as elk rifles, with a smattering of hot 7mms. Until an influx of new people and the CM craze, I can tell you, a 6.5 was only posted there as a cautionary learning tale by someone who had tried one (typically a 6.5-284) and found it lacking for long range work even when properly placed.
 
Weight your sling, especially if it is a nice arm loop type and has QD buckles

I’ve weighed a bunch of mine some are over 1lbs, the 20 minute base is a couple, caps and a Harris is about a 1lbs.

That scope is light, most are 24oz + and the only one seen with all the options I want is 28.

Just seems like just a hair over 3lbs for the addition stuff is fairly realistic.


My quake sling w/ 2qd swivels is 6.5 oz. idk how much that rail is but I’d imagine 5-6 oz. so I imagine there’s 2.5 lbs over bare weight on that rifle

You’re absolutely right that it adds up
 
Yea, I wasn't trying to get in on the weight argument. Different people tolerate different weights. I'd say 6-7 pounds is about standard for a naked hunting rifle and CA makes real nice guns. I just don't see the need to custom build a "hunting and occasional range" gun when there are options like this out there. Now if your thinking about shooting competitively sure by all means, but for most people (not all) their "hunting" rifle is a safe queen for the majority of the year.

Gotcha, I’m not really trying to point anything out more than the damn true weight always ends up why higher than what I hear people saying their hunting gun weighs unless they packing some stripped down duplex scope with tiny sling no bipod
 
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Gotcha, I’m not really trying to point anything out more than the damn true weight always ends up why higher than what I hear people saying their hunting gun weighs unless they packing some stripped down duplex scope with tiny sling no bipod
Oh yea, I agree. I don't think it's a good idea to chase a weight, build up a rifle and see how it works for you.
 
I have been hunting with this this year and will take its brother (6.5x47) to Colorado next week on a cow hunt. It’s not ideal @18-20#, but it’ll be fine. I’m in decent shape so that helps. The carbon 12-13#’r will be nice though for next year! I don’t feel like you can have a true do all rifle if you throw bigger game than deer in the picture and/or mountains and hiking
BB72E701-797E-4FC8-BCC5-F126FC0CC268.jpeg
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All things considered , kinetic energy is what matters regardless of cartridge ! I suggest you contemplate your maximum yardage for where you hunt and choose accordingly wether that is 6mm, 6.5, 7 , .30cal or larger . I use a heavy sporter weight 300WM with a brake for Elk and plan on a 7SAW for Deer and Elk in a pinch . The 7SAW should come in at about 9 or 10 pounds and my 300WM is 13 pounds , not much difference in weight but a big difference in KE !
 
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I don't disagree with the logic for a new shooter, except starting out with a hard kicking caliber in a light gun...

But I am going to explain why I like a gun that is like what I shoot most and can double for a field match were you might hike 10 miles, sence it seems to be something you do not "get".

Ok, so lets say you build a buy a 7lbs 30-06.. Put a real scope on it, a real sling, a real bipod and rings, base maybe a cheek riser what does that light gun weigh now.. Probably over 10 lbs.. so we really are talking about 2 lbs.

I shoot thousands of rounds and a couple of barrels a year, either spinning up for a match or shooting them like others on here.. As fast as you can tell me the distance and wind I bet I can tell you my wind hold as close as the solver will predict in my head. Am I going to be more successful with that cheap ass gun that I shoot less than a box of ammo a year? No the confidence alone will cause issues.

I'd rather add 2lbs to my gun and take it off in my pack, stove tent, bag than from my gun. BTW what does your pack weigh that is capable of packing out 100lbs of meat yet big enough to carry the essentials for for a few days? Many packs in this category are 7-9lbs empty.. Mine is just over 4. my 2 person tent is <20oz, my 20F 900down bag weighs only 1 lbs. So I can carry a 20lbs pack kitted were many other are over well over 30lbs..

Anyway, hope this helps with the logic of why.. BTW my son has been on a 6 day hunt and I am hoping to meet up with him tonight for another 3 days and we are using the stupid guns in the images..

I carry a .308 rifle that weighs about 6.5-7lbs (scope and all gear included). You can easily keep a hunting rifle's weight below 10lbs if you're smart with the rifle/gear selection. The kick is noticeable and the barrel's accuracy is not great during extended shooting sessions, but all I need is a single, maybe 2nd follow-up, shot for ranges up to 400 yards. For that purpose, the rifle works very well.

I'm sure some people are willing to lug around +10lb rifles. Most of the people who go on backcountry hunts don't. You can justify your choice of rifle however you want.....12lb hunting rifles aren't the norm for most dedicated hunters. If you want to prove your "prowess" with pictures/video of you carrying your rifle on an extended backcountry hunt, and not some afternoon jaunt within walking distance of your vehicle, please do so.

For most hunters, weight is an important consideration. People who are new to hunting should focus on rifles that are lightweight but good enough to get the job done....telling new people to build up a match-grade rifle for anything other than sedentary hunts is foolish advice.
 
For most hunters, weight is an important consideration. People who are new to hunting should focus on rifles that are lightweight but good enough to get the job done....telling new people to build up a match-grade rifle for anything other than sedentary hunts is foolish advice.

How is that relevant to the post at hand though. OP wants what he wants. Telling someone they should not build what they want because that’s not what you want is a pointless debate. From my POV the post you are quoting is centered around why someone would, not that every new hunter should, which how you seem to be taking it.

For the record I still don’t see how a 2 more pounds on a rifle is that big of a deal when that can very easily be cut out of tons of hunters packs in food alone.
 
How is that relevant to the post at hand though. OP wants what he wants. Telling someone they should not build what they want because that’s not what you want is a pointless debate. From my POV the post you are quoting is centered around why someone would, not that every new hunter should, which how you seem to be taking it.

Most new hunters don't know what they "want." Or they'll eventually come to find out that what they "want" conflicts with what they truly "need."

I went down this same road as the OP: I tried to get one bolt-action rifle that do everything (competition, hunting, target shooting). I found out very quickly that a hunting rifle needs to be set up a bit differently from a target or competition rifle. I've carried plenty of heavy loads on my back, but a hunting rifle's weight really needs to be mitigated if you want to be aware and ready during long hunts.

This is common knowledge among most hunters, but I do question how many "hunters" are really on this forum.

For the record I still don’t see how a 2 more pounds on a rifle is that big of a deal when that can very easily be cut out of tons of hunters packs in food alone.

Have you done extensive backcountry hunting? Have you ever served on a foot-mobile combat arms unit in the military?

The people who have quickly learn one very important lesson: every ounce matters. If that ounce can't be justified, it needs to be shed.

If you're actually conscious of weight when you select your gear, components that are a few ounces lighter here and there can add up to your overall kit being a few lbs lighter....and that will make quite a difference, especially when you're hauling meat back to the trail head.
 
I spent a week at 9k in Colorado where both me and my father( 60years old 1 heart attack in ) logged about 5miles a day with 10 pound rigs.

No it’s not 40 miles deep but the idea that every “new” hunter needs to cut ultralight type weights and hike to the lost city to be a real hunter is just about ridiculous in my opinion.

But then again I grew up hunting with a 10 pound scoped BAR so maybe I’m just used to the weight. The idea that I’m not a real hunter because I don’t agree with you every hunter should be ultralight attitude is beyond me.

I hike ultralight because I don’t have to perform in a hiking trip. When I’m hunting I’m there to kill something, and I’m gonna have the best tool for that job when it happens
 
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I carry a .308 rifle that weighs about 6.5-7lbs (scope and all gear included). You can easily keep a hunting rifle's weight below 10lbs if you're smart with the rifle/gear selection. The kick is noticeable and the barrel's accuracy is not great during extended shooting sessions, but all I need is a single, maybe 2nd follow-up, shot for ranges up to 400 yards. For that purpose, the rifle works very well.

I'm sure some people are willing to lug around +10lb rifles. Most of the people who go on backcountry hunts don't. You can justify your choice of rifle however you want.....12lb hunting rifles aren't the norm for most dedicated hunters. If you want to prove your "prowess" with pictures/video of you carrying your rifle on an extended backcountry hunt, and not some afternoon jaunt within walking distance of your vehicle, please do so.

For most hunters, weight is an important consideration. People who are new to hunting should focus on rifles that are lightweight but good enough to get the job done....telling new people to build up a match-grade rifle for anything other than sedentary hunts is foolish advice.
DB05E47F-A6A1-426C-9E99-698CB9658D9E.jpeg

From this morning with that gun I just show pictures of.

From this afternoon 3 pigs all dropped, literally in their tracks.

3E865624-E6B3-4FB3-A1F5-9995F0B90B7B.jpeg


BTW the next hog was shot by my son, about 450 at a full run, full speed. One shot from a tripod and it summersaulted, in to a DRT skid with a 6.5. (It’s no Elk, but bores still have small well protected vitals).

While not true back country the closest that truck could get is way in the cannon below the furthest green tree you can see. So rather than feild dress and pack it out we where still able to drag and drag..
DA69E8FB-4668-403B-B57D-66179C36C398.jpeg
 
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Doesn’t count as hunting unless it’s deep backcountry bruh

Gotta be dedic8ed

Lol, your sarcasm is noted.

There is a difference between walking a mile or two in for a day hunt and walking several dozen miles while living out of your backpack over a multi-day hunt. I know plenty of real world tough guys who do the latter....none of them carry around 12lb rifles.


No it’s not 40 miles deep but the idea that every “new” hunter needs to cut ultralight type weights and hike to the lost city to be a real hunter is just about ridiculous in my opinion.

I don't consider a 6-7lb rifle ultralight, as there are rifles that are lighter than that. It's not about being real or being better, its about being smart and efficient.

Why carry around a 10-12lb target rifle when a 6-7lb rifle will get the job done just as well? The animal doesn't care about your group sizes; dead is dead. All you need is practical accuracy.

I'm glad you had fun lugging around your heavy rifle in the mountains of Colorado. Most hunters who spend lots of time in that type of terrain prefer to keep their loads as light as possible....if this is news to you, oh well.
 
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Lol, your sarcasm is noted.

There is a difference between walking a mile or two in for a day hunt and walking several dozen miles while living out of your backpack over a multi-day hunt. I know plenty of real world tough guys who do the latter....none of them carry around 12lb rifles.

I'm glad you had fun lugging around your heavy rifle in the mountains of Colorado. Most hunters who spend lots of time in that type of terrain prefer to keep their loads as light as possible....if this is news to you, oh well.


Did you ever ask OP how he wanted to hunt?

You came in here saying you don’t understand why someone would hunt with a rifle like ours. We told you. I don’t understand why this is such an ordeal.
 
Did you ever ask OP how he wanted to hunt?

You came in here saying you don’t understand why someone would hunt with a rifle like ours. We told you. I don’t understand why this is such an ordeal.

I gave my advice on hunting rifles to the OP.

You and someone else don't agree with said advice, but that's irrelevant since neither of you are the OP.

OP hasn't specified what kind of hunting he is looking to do. For every type of hunting except sedentary hunts (predator calling, stand hunts, ect.) a lighter rifle will be more practical than a heavier one. There will be a slight tradeoff in accuracy for the reduced weight; the accuracy only needs to be good enough, not best in class.
 
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Doesn’t count as hunting unless it’s deep backcountry bruh

Gotta be dedic8ed

Ya, I know.. hell, some of the guys on here would say I was a pussy for shooting it off my RRS tripod.. but it just fell over with a stupid 6.5. I am just so messed up..

Btw I’ve had some run and run with fairly good shots on my 300wm..
 
Maybe folks are just getting too soft these days?? The rifle I just built for an AK hunt is 12 lbs with a Minox ZP5 315 on it. Ill take a little heavier complete rifle (2-3 lbs) any day over an ultra light gun that just sucks to shoot and doesn't have good glass. I would rather have a really good optic that added a pound. Like what was said in a previous post... the best tool for the job.

How bout the weight of peoples hunting boots or pants, etc? That's a bigger issue to me then a heavy rifle when hiking miles and miles. I think if people are worried about carrying a pound or two they should get in the gym. Or lose a few pounds of the waist line.. I train months in advance for hunts. Fully loaded packs doing stairs at altitude. You ever see anyone doing the Manitou Incline with hunting gear on.... Its not fun, but it pays off.
 
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Well, for what it’s worth op can still build a custom gun that is also a lightweight setup. Tons of options to do that.
 
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Yeah I’m jealous of that prs2 kind of regret not going for that. They are lookers
 
If I didn't care about weight, I would use my MPA built BA lite 6.5 cm with my 3 pound vortex scope. Or My competition MPA, heavier yet.

I am really liking the Manners equipped with carbon proof barrels. Each of these are purpose built, and none of them do really well for every situation. I want a variety, and something nice like the ones above ^^^
 
Thanks! It will end up with an Impact and Carbon Proof in 6.5 prc in the next few months.

That’s the sage flats color that Core did a few months ago. I really like it too! Pretty solid stock. Here’s a better pic
D9594317-EC40-4D5E-BF20-CF6C60C89C8C.jpeg
 
Thanks! It will end up with an Impact and Carbon Proof in 6.5 prc in the next few months.

That’s the sage flats color that Core did a few months ago. I really like it too! Pretty solid stock. Here’s a better pic View attachment 6997906
I went with the same stock for my match/hunting hybrid and am a massive fan of them. I’ll be building exactly the same build with the exception of a carbon barrel for my backcountry build that will be a backup to the comp build. I’m somewhat of a minimalist so two rifles built in the same calibre with the same ergonomics made sense to me.
 
View attachment 6997680
From this morning with that gun I just show pictures of.

From this afternoon 3 pigs all dropped, literally in their tracks.

View attachment 6998020

BTW the next hog was shot by my son, about 450 at a full run, full speed. One shot from a tripod and it summersaulted, in to a DRT skid with a 6.5. (It’s no Elk, but bores still have small well protected vitals).

While not true back country the closest that truck could get is way in the cannon below the furthest green tree you can see. So rather than feild dress and pack it out we where still able to drag and drag..
View attachment 6998017

Nevermind that this isn't "backcountry."

You're hunting with a tripod from a fixed position. You dropped all your gear (including your rifle) to drag the animal back to your truck. Like I said earlier, heavy rifles can work for certain types of sedentary hunts. I'm glad that rifle worked well for your situation. If you're covering 6-7 miles in a day and your carrying a pack on your back, in addition to a whole bunch of harvested meat, you're not going to want a 12 lb rifle on your shoulder.

Maybe there are some "tough guys" on here who don't mind carrying a few extra lb's of rifle during long foot movements in tough terrain. Or maybe there are some people on here who don't appreciate the difference between tripod hunting within a short walking distance of their vehicle and still hunting in a densely vegetated forest 5-6 miles from your vehicle. I'm more inclined to think its the latter rather than former.

Maybe the OP is only interested in certain types of hunts, in which case a heavy rifle could work just fine. If he wants to do a lot of different types of hunting, he'll be better served by a lighter rifle and lighter gear in general. Moreover, has the OP even stated where he lives? Carrying around a +700 yard capable rifle in the middle of the Michigan woods might be overkill, for example.

Edit: But I realize the audience here has different views on this topic. OP can do whatever he wants. If he truly wants to get into hunting, he'll likely learn some valuable lessons by going with a heavy target rifle build.
 
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Nevermind that this isn't "backcountry."

You're hunting with a tripod from a fixed position. You dropped all your gear (including your rifle) to drag the animal back to your truck. Like I said earlier, heavy rifles can work for certain types of sedentary hunts. I'm glad that rifle worked well for your situation. If you're covering 6-7 miles in a day and your carrying a pack on your back, in addition to a whole bunch of harvested meat, you're not going to want a 12 lb rifle on your shoulder.

Maybe there are some "tough guys" on here who don't mind carrying a few extra lb's of rifle during long foot movements in tough terrain. Or maybe there are some people on here who don't appreciate the difference between tripod hunting within a short walking distance of their vehicle and still hunting in a densely vegetated forest 5-6 miles from your vehicle. I'm more inclined to think its the latter rather than former.

Maybe the OP is only interested in certain types of hunts, in which case a heavy rifle could work just fine. If he wants to do a lot of different types of hunting, he'll be better served by a lighter rifle and lighter gear in general. Moreover, has the OP even stated where he lives? Carrying around a +700 yard capable rifle in the middle of the Michigan woods might be overkill, for example.

Edit: But I realize the audience here has different views on this topic. OP can do whatever he wants. If he truly wants to get into hunting, he'll likely learn some valuable lessons by going with a heavy target rifle build.

I don’t understand why you keep arguing about “backcountry” and no one understands what a real hunting rifle is. The OP wants a somewhat do all rifle. He doesn’t want a sub 7# rifle for 30 mile mountain hikes. Maybe you don’t understand that.

I’m an Oklahoma flatlander. We shoot animals all the time with our 20# rifles. They work exceptionally well. Walk in a mile, shoot the animal, walk out and get the truck. That’s probably what the OP is going to do. If I want a 30 mile hiking rifle I the wilderness I’ll grab my Remington 700 300rum mountain rifle. It’s about 7# all up.

Also my hunting in CO is off of a highway with about a 1 mile walk. I can carry a 15#r and be fine. It will suck though. Then we’ll get the truck and load her up.

I will agree. I’m not going deep in the mountains will a 12# rifle, 5# pack, 10# of clothes, and a 5# tripod, but I don’t think the OP is either.
 
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Nevermind that this isn't "backcountry."

You're hunting with a tripod from a fixed position. You dropped all your gear (including your rifle) to drag the animal back to your truck. Like I said earlier, heavy rifles can work for certain types of sedentary hunts. I'm glad that rifle worked well for your situation. If you're covering 6-7 miles in a day and your carrying a pack on your back, in addition to a whole bunch of harvested meat, you're not going to want a 12 lb rifle on your shoulder.

Maybe there are some "tough guys" on here who don't mind carrying a few extra lb's of rifle during long foot movements in tough terrain. Or maybe there are some people on here who don't appreciate the difference between tripod hunting within a short walking distance of their vehicle and still hunting in a densely vegetated forest 5-6 miles from your vehicle. I'm more inclined to think its the latter rather than former.

Maybe the OP is only interested in certain types of hunts, in which case a heavy rifle could work just fine. If he wants to do a lot of different types of hunting, he'll be better served by a lighter rifle and lighter gear in general. Moreover, has the OP even stated where he lives? Carrying around a +700 yard capable rifle in the middle of the Michigan woods might be overkill, for example.

Edit: But I realize the audience here has different views on this topic. OP can do whatever he wants. If he truly wants to get into hunting, he'll likely learn some valuable lessons by going with a heavy target rifle build.
I hope I was clear that the hog images was not, mountain goat hunting.. or a 5 day stalk. But someone said the guns in this thread don’t get shot. Ironically, I was hunting at the time. It still is hunting and still takes work in the hills and the guns still gets shot. Btw we saw a lot of very nice deer.

If I only had one hunting rifle, I want to shoot it a lot a know it. That’s why you see people looking for a dual use rifle. So to be clear, ya, I’d still add 2lbs to my file and empty every Mountain House bag to save just about 1oz per meal from their packaging. You can find a 1lbs there with 2 peoples food in just a 4 day meal plan. I’ll find another way to get that 2 lbs back. probably as simple getting the best pack, bivi and bag that I already own. Actually, I might end up many pounds lighter than the guy that saved 1.5 lbs on his gun.

Extreme mountain goat hunting I might change my mind, but that’s a very narrow window and not something I do.

Btw what is your “base weight” on your 4 day pack setup with load shelf (sub snow conditions)? I am not being sarcastic but honestly interested. I think here is where most of us can shead a lot of weight.
 
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Nevermind that this isn't "backcountry."

You're hunting with a tripod from a fixed position. You dropped all your gear (including your rifle) to drag the animal back to your truck. Like I said earlier, heavy rifles can work for certain types of sedentary hunts. I'm glad that rifle worked well for your situation. If you're covering 6-7 miles in a day and your carrying a pack on your back, in addition to a whole bunch of harvested meat, you're not going to want a 12 lb rifle on your shoulder.

Maybe there are some "tough guys" on here who don't mind carrying a few extra lb's of rifle during long foot movements in tough terrain. Or maybe there are some people on here who don't appreciate the difference between tripod hunting within a short walking distance of their vehicle and still hunting in a densely vegetated forest 5-6 miles from your vehicle. I'm more inclined to think its the latter rather than former.

Maybe the OP is only interested in certain types of hunts, in which case a heavy rifle could work just fine. If he wants to do a lot of different types of hunting, he'll be better served by a lighter rifle and lighter gear in general. Moreover, has the OP even stated where he lives? Carrying around a +700 yard capable rifle in the middle of the Michigan woods might be overkill, for example.

Edit: But I realize the audience here has different views on this topic. OP can do whatever he wants. If he truly wants to get into hunting, he'll likely learn some valuable lessons by going with a heavy target rifle build.


Well his profile says Minnesota.

There are 2 separate things going on here, you said you didn’t understand why someone would take a custom build out and that seems to be both weight and economics. Now the commentary is much more weight based, but the fact remains that OPs only main desire is a custom build, so he can absolutely build a custom rifle to meet your weight preferences.

We were just telling you why we have our preferences since you said you didn’t understand, and that lead to weird argument that we aren’t backcountry hunters because we like “heavy” guns.

A 10-11 pound rifle is not a “heavy target rifle build” it is heavier than you like, but it’s not that heavy.
 
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Gunworks who makes some light nice builds but has the balls and integrity to list build weights with a nice scope and rings: here is there magnum @ 10lbs add a 6oz -1lbs sling and a 1lb Harris and???
https://gunwerks.com/store/rifles/magnus#43-67-25-62-52-64-55-168-126-c2-t0-a0-r0

Here is there ClymR ultra light 8.5lbs but again add the sling and bipod
https://gunwerks.com/store/rifles/clymr#43-67-25-62-52-64-55-169-126-c2-t0-a0-r0

So you end up with about a fully kitted just about 12 and just about 10 pound gun.

Kimbers lightest that I know is a 5lbs BARE - add the same almost 2 pounds for a nice LR scope with external turrets and rings, then a good sling and bipod your still over 8lbs.

I keep hearing about sub 7lbs rifles or worse yet, that that's not even considered light.

Can someone post images of their a Sub 7Lbs rifle in a long range caliber, long range setup in full trim with a decent sling, bipod and field adjustable turrets in the nice scope 3-15ish or higher on a scale, with a 3 shot group, better yet squeak out 5 shots?

I know it only takes 1 shot.. well you still need load develope, sight it in and in all honestly I’ve seen guys miss several times and end up needing more than three.

The build list would be great too. I know these sub 7lbs tackdrivers must be common place, judging from some of the posts.
 
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Nevermind that this isn't "backcountry."

You're hunting with a tripod from a fixed position. You dropped all your gear (including your rifle) to drag the animal back to your truck. Like I said earlier, heavy rifles can work for certain types of sedentary hunts. I'm glad that rifle worked well for your situation. If you're covering 6-7 miles in a day and your carrying a pack on your back, in addition to a whole bunch of harvested meat, you're not going to want a 12 lb rifle on your shoulder.

Maybe there are some "tough guys" on here who don't mind carrying a few extra lb's of rifle during long foot movements in tough terrain. Or maybe there are some people on here who don't appreciate the difference between tripod hunting within a short walking distance of their vehicle and still hunting in a densely vegetated forest 5-6 miles from your vehicle. I'm more inclined to think its the latter rather than former.

Maybe the OP is only interested in certain types of hunts, in which case a heavy rifle could work just fine. If he wants to do a lot of different types of hunting, he'll be better served by a lighter rifle and lighter gear in general. Moreover, has the OP even stated where he lives? Carrying around a +700 yard capable rifle in the middle of the Michigan woods might be overkill, for example.

Edit: But I realize the audience here has different views on this topic. OP can do whatever he wants. If he truly wants to get into hunting, he'll likely learn some valuable lessons by going with a heavy target rifle build.
I would agree with this I've stalked and tracked for miles and have found my self dropping gear and having to go back to recover it after a hunt, it makes you really think, about what is really essential to bring with. I am one that wants to bring everything including the kitchen sink on a hunt, but realize that will limit my mobility and range. Carrying an ultra heavy rifle, will wear on you physically and mentally. I really have to be careful about what I pack in my back pack. The most important thing is water, which is the heaviest thing. A gallon weighs 8 1/3 pounds. You need to pack 1 1/2 to 2 times as much water as you would normally need if you dont have a source of fresh water available. With that being said lighter is better, every ounce shed means the longer you can be out, and increase the odds of a successful hunt.
 
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I have a feeling Upstate is using a much lighter scope than we are, maybe capped turrets and holding over with a reticle and maxing at 400.

A vx3i 3.5-10x40 is 12.5 edit ounces not pounds lol
Say 5 oz minimalist sling
2 oz Talley lightweight rings

Shooting off a bag no bipod that’s 19.5 oz over bare weight. With something like a field craft or ultra light Kimber I bet you could get under 7lbs. It’s gonna be a party to shoot with a magnum or half magnum caliber but it will be light.

For the record I may very well put together an ultralight rifle. I have had ~7.5 loaded rifle before and just didn’t really dig it. However maybe that was just the rifle? I can see giving it another shot for an ultralight stubby for stalking suppressed in the woods.... but that sure doesn’t mean I don’t love my “heavy” 10 pound rifle enough to drag its ass across a mountain and back.
 
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I am not much of a hunter other than coyotes and stuff like that, but wanted something in case. So I personally went with the 6.5 PRC. My rifle isn’t the lightest but beats my 15-16lbs match rigs

Deviant action
Eh1 stock and I have an XLR check rest I am gonna modify to it.
Barrel is a marksman contour. Slight mix up between me and my smith. So I have the barrel sent to Gradous for fluting.
Have an Amg on order to top it off

Check with Joe Walls of Exodus Rifles. He is my go to smith. Or the Seekins Havak has a lot to offer for the $$. I have some time on them in 6.5 prc. Really nice setup and only a touch over 7lbs.

Below is shots 8-12, 5 shot group with 140 Eld-m load I picked from the manual. I pulled the 5th shot as always. It’s the one outside the cluster at 7 O’clock. Lol
 

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