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Need some suggestions on 6.5CM accuracy loads - AR Proof CF barrel

ZA206

Private
Full Member
Minuteman
Jan 24, 2014
283
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Been breaking in/tuning my Proof CF/Aero rifle and doing some light workups to fire form virgin Peterson brass. I have also been shooting factory Norma, Hornady and Berger loads to see what the gun likes and to harvest some brass. Now that I have deprimed and wet tumbled my first lot of once fired brass, I'm ready to start doing some real reloads. I know the barrel like the factory Berger 130 OTM and the Hornady 147 ELDM (I’ve got measurements and chrono data from all factory loads).

Currently have the following once fired:
Hornady LRP, Peterson SRP & Norma LRP
Most of it is the Norma and Peterson.

I have the following powders that will work:
Staball 6.5
H4350
Varget
Staball Match

Bullets:
140 ELDM
147 ELDM
130 Berger OTM
136 Scenar-L

Primers:
CCI Benchrest LRP
Winchester LRP
Rem 7.5 SRP
Wolf SRP

I need to decide where to begin... any suggestions?

-ZA

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I’d just go with what you have the most of.
Or on the contrary, what you want to get rid of.
It should all work, what’s works best requires testing.
 
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I would pick a bullet that you have some confidence in and do some node tests. Find out what the barrel likes, and start paper testing from there.
 
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my load data for my PROOF CF AR10 6.5 CM is 40.8 gr H4350, CCI450, Lapua brass, 140 ELDM, jump .015. Muzzle velocity measured 2740 fps, around 10 fps SD, the accuracy is consistently 0.5 MOA. This is the footage of me shooting a cold bore 0.51 MOA 5-shot group with this load using a sandbag and bipod:

also very easy to hit small target at 700 yards. This AR10 is just as accurate and fun as my AIAT high-end bolt gun:
 
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Mine wound up loving 147 ELDM and Lapua Scenar-L 136… but then again, it likes almost everything! ;)

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I'm convinced you could put H4350 in a 6.5cm case and crudely stuff an oddly shaped rock in the end of them and they would shoot a half minute.
 
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This barrel & cartridge combo is hands down the easiest I’ve ever messed with when it comes to load development. It’s not picky at all, but maybe it’s just 6.5CM is super forgiving. I dunno…
 
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You have everything you need to build a very accurate load.

H4350 is where I would start. You likely will end up in the low 40s. Either ELDM will work fine. Just don't push them too hard. They will come apart in flight, particularly with a fast twist barrel.

The one thing I have learned is that Hornady brass is very inconsistent. If you use it, weight sort. It does make a difference.

Good luck.
 
Likely so the aiming point is not obliterated. I always set the impact point away from the aiming point when shooting for groups on paper.
For me, I zero at a 50 yd range, for a 35 yd zero. Ergo point of impact should be 1.6 inches high. I was wondering if he was doing something similar. If I am just shooting or doing load development I adjust the scope to hit center of the point of aim. Then any deviation whatsoever must be the load components. Assuming I am doing my job and aiming properly lol.
 
I always shift my POI down or up 1”-2” from my POA so I don’t shoot out my aim point. Sighters are typically shot at a separate target board.
 
I always shift my POI down or up 1”-2” from my POA so I don’t shoot out my aim point. Sighters are typically shot at a separate target board.
I guess I don’t understand the concept. Whatever point you are trying to hit will get shot up after enough rounds anyway. I always have extra targets so I can have clear analysis of my results.
The only time I intentionally get a different POI from POA is when I am zeroing, as described in the previous post.
 
I guess I don’t understand the concept. Whatever point you are trying to hit will get shot up after enough rounds anyway. I always have extra targets so I can have clear analysis of my results.
The only time I intentionally get a different POI from POA is when I am zeroing, as described in the previous post.
If you shoot well enough that you obscure your aim point, you will immediately cease to be shooting well enough.

Here is a pretty obvious example. First one was low and sucked the sticker through and had to guess on the rest
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If you shoot well enough that you obscure your aim point, you will immediately cease to be shooting well enough.

Here is a pretty obvious example. First one was low and sucked the sticker through and had to guess on the rest View attachment 8305762
I use different targets. Even if I obliterate the POI I still know where it is. My targets have a box within a box. Not just a dot.
I do get what you are saying. I prefer shooting longer than 100 yds, and at typical 300 yd range my groups are not quite that small.
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when I am load testing, I dont jack around getting my scope on the bullseye.

Im seeing how stuff shoots.
Not if I can hit the bull….
An inch off each aiming point still gives me the information I seek.

Once I settle on a load and COAL, then I set the scope to smack center……
 
when I am load testing, I dont jack around getting my scope on the bullseye.

Im seeing how stuff shoots.
Not if I can hit the bull….
An inch off each aiming point still gives me the information I seek.

Once I settle on a load and COAL, then I set the scope to smack center……
Exactly. You are not intentionally hitting a POI that is intentionally different from the POA.
The only time I do that is when zeroing for 35 yds at a 50 yd range.