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need suggestions for a long range hunting and target build.

A

altron274

young shooter
Full Member
Minuteman
Mar 22, 2014
24
0
wisconsin
This is my first actual thread on here so please be nice. So, first a little background. Ive been shooting since I was 8, I am now 15 and will be 16 in 2 months. Most of my shooting experience is in shotguns and I shoot trap league every week. I have been wanting to get into some other forms of shooting lately. I purchased a glock 22c in 40 s&w and thuroughly enjoy shooting it. ( note. My parents fully support me and they register the guns in their name) Lately I have been looking at getting into rifle shooting, and my main goal is to shoot medium too long range at targets for practice as well as hunting whitetail and maybe the occasional yote. I currently have a marlin xs7 308 that I use for whitetail but I would like something a lot more quality than that.

Now on to the reason for this post. For the reasons stated above I have decided to buy/build a custom rifle. My question is what components should I use to build it? I have a general idea on what I want, but if all of the knowledgable people here could post up what they think would be the best build for me I would greatly appreciate it. A full build list would be amazing!!!

Here are the specifications:
Budget
-3500 dollars for working gun and optics
caliber
- I am thinking that 6.5 creedmoor would be my best bet but I am open to any suggestions (I so have the ability to reload)
Weight & portability
- most of my hunting is done from stands so I dont need a feather weight, but I also dont want son 30" barreled bench rest gun.
Build materials
Stock
- any high end synthetic (manners, mcmillan, etc...)
Bottom metal
- havent looked much so suggest anything would prefer detatchabe mags but its up for suggestions
Trigger
- I really like the timney single stages but a 2 stage would be nice too
Barrel
- 26" or less. Brand doesnt matter but it must be of top notch quality
Action
- really like the stiller actions but again I am open to all suggestions.
Scope
- needs to have enough magnification to shoot at 1000 yds. Probably around the 4-16 range or 6-24. Remember this all needs to be under $3500 so probably no nf or s&b.

Please keep everything under $3500. I have saved all my money for most of this year and that is the most I can possibly spend and still be able to pay the payments on my truck.

Ps. If anyone lives anywhere relatively close too me (I live on the east side of madison wisconsin) and has some builds they would let me see/shoot or would be willing to meet up and help me with the more technical parts I would greatly appretiate it. THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL YOUR HELP

- Jacob
 
My suggestion would be to check out the for-sale section of this site, there are some really good rifles down there all the time.
 
If you wanted to go economy you could get a rem 700 sps varmit$550 to start.(heavy contour barrel), get a mcm from bugholes for +- $700, timney 510 for +-$120, & still have enought cash for maybe ( US Optics ST-10, SWFA 3-15hd/ 10xhd, or even a used NF.

If its your first build rifle, and considering your age you really dont need a super fancy gun to start. You can spend a ton of money really fast. Start slow you dont need a $1000 custom action to start in my opinion.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
 
Stiller action
24in. Brux barrel Rem Varmint
Jewell trigger
HS stock
Zeiss 6.5x20
Mark 4 rings
I have several rifles setup this way and am really satisfied. Be smart on your shopping and you can make well under budget. Estimate around 2650.00 for parts, gunsmithing the barrel will be extra. Bugholes did mine. Hope this helps.
 
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cotntop said:
Stiller action
24in. Brux barrel Rem Varmint
Jewell trigger
HS stock
Zeiss 6.5x20
Mark 4 rings
I have several rifles setup this way and am really satisfied. Be smart on your shopping and you can make well under budget. Estimate around 2650.00 for parts, gunsmithing the barrel will be extra. Bugholes did mine. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

What did something like this end up weighing - rifle and scope total.
 
With your price restrictions, desired use, and the size of game in Minnesota, I wouldn't worry too much about caliber selection. I would look for a great deal first and foremost. There are many GREAT rifles sold here for less half their original price. Couple pieces of info I think will assist you.

-PTG DBM is the most affordable by a considerable margin.
-A complete rifle is almost always cheaper than the sum of its parts and labor, sometimes cheaper than its parts.
-Flying a wtb ad will bring options to the table that won't be on there otherwise
-A rifle scope combo may further increase savings
-Auction sites can save you quite a bit of money- a sako 243 varmint in a McMillan a5 adjustable sold on gunbroker yesterday for $1050.
-Classified sections can save you tons- A GAP full build 300 WSM in McMillan a5 FN action Krieger barrel sold on longrangehunting this week for 2000- wow
 
altron274 said:
This is my first actual thread on here so please be nice. So, first a little background. Ive been shooting since I was 8, I am now 15 and will be 16 in 2 months. Most of my shooting experience is in shotguns and I shoot trap league every week. I have been wanting to get into some other forms of shooting lately. I purchased a glock 22c in 40 s&w and thuroughly enjoy shooting it. ( note. My parents fully support me and they register the guns in their name) Lately I have been looking at getting into rifle shooting, and my main goal is to shoot medium too long range at targets for practice as well as hunting whitetail and maybe the occasional yote. I currently have a marlin xs7 308 that I use for whitetail but I would like something a lot more quality than that.

Now on to the reason for this post. For the reasons stated above I have decided to buy/build a custom rifle. My question is what components should I use to build it? I have a general idea on what I want, but if all of the knowledgable people here could post up what they think would be the best build for me I would greatly appreciate it. A full build list would be amazing!!!

Here are the specifications:
Budget
-3500 dollars for working gun and optics
caliber
- I am thinking that 6.5 creedmoor would be my best bet but I am open to any suggestions (I so have the ability to reload)
Weight & portability
- most of my hunting is done from stands so I dont need a feather weight, but I also dont want son 30" barreled bench rest gun.
Build materials
Stock
- any high end synthetic (manners, mcmillan, etc...)
Bottom metal
- havent looked much so suggest anything would prefer detatchabe mags but its up for suggestions
Trigger
- I really like the timney single stages but a 2 stage would be nice too
Barrel
- 26" or less. Brand doesnt matter but it must be of top notch quality
Action
- really like the stiller actions but again I am open to all suggestions.
Scope
- needs to have enough magnification to shoot at 1000 yds. Probably around the 4-16 range or 6-24. Remember this all needs to be under $3500 so probably no nf or s&b.

Please keep everything under $3500. I have saved all my money for most of this year and that is the most I can possibly spend and still be able to pay the payments on my truck.

Ps. If anyone lives anywhere relatively close too me (I live on the east side of madison wisconsin) and has some builds they would let me see/shoot or would be willing to meet up and help me with the more technical parts I would greatly appretiate it. THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL YOUR HELP

- Jacob
Click to expand...

Hi Jacob,

If I were your age I would get a decent Remmy, Sako, Tikka, etc. varmint gun in a popular caliber and put some quality optic and mounts on it. It wouldn't hurt to base that choice on the aftermarket support of the particular make/model.

Then, shoot the hell out of it. Learn how to shoot and how to reload. That goes hand in hand.

Once you max that rifle out, have the action worked over and mount a better barrel in possibly another caliber. By then, you'll know better what YOU need.

Save the fancy stock/chassis and bottom metal for last when you know exactly what you need for matches, etc. Deer don't care about that.

In other word let the rifle grow with you. It is more rewarding and educational that way. The total sum spent maybe a little more but spread over a longer period with less risk of sinking money into the wrong choices.

I have built rifles, boats, motorcycles, and airplanes myself and they are all part of my journey on this planet rather than just pieces of merchandise in exchange for cash. Have you read "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance?". If not, do it. You'll understand what I mean.

That being said, if I run into an "almost too good to be true" deal, I buy and build something else later.
 
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I was in your shoes 6-7 years ago (although I was 20ish then not 16) and I went the Rem 700 5R route. Got it off gunbroker for $950 then, topped it with a Burris XTR416 (grandfather won a 60% off coupon at one of his cowboy action shoots and gave it to me, so saved me some money there, plenty of good scopes for less than those though). I decided to spend the extra money on ammo and reloading equipment and practice. I know 308 isnt the sexy caliber these days but I still feel its hard to beat for someone fairly new that needs to practice and learn. Will make 1000 with the right load without any issues and will make you a better shooter doing it. Just my 0.02 from personal experience. Good luck!

Edit: forgot to add but also and advantage of doing it that way is you can upgrade parts over time as you gain experience and develop preferences without dropping a ton of money upfront with little to know experience on what works best for you. Just an idea!
 
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thanks for all of the amazing advice. I really appreciate it and I knew you guys would guide me on the right past. keep the posts coming and I'll make sure to post pictures of what I decide to purchase.
 
TimeWillTell said:
I was in your shoes 6-7 years ago (although I was 20ish then not 16) and I went the Rem 700 5R route. Got it off gunbroker for $950 then, topped it with a Burris XTR416 (grandfather won a 60% off coupon at one of his cowboy action shoots and gave it to me, so saved me some money there, plenty of good scopes for less than those though). I decided to spend the extra money on ammo and reloading equipment and practice. I know 308 isnt the sexy caliber these days but I still feel its hard to beat for someone fairly new that needs to practice and learn. Will make 1000 with the right load without any issues and will make you a better shooter doing it. Just my 0.02 from personal experience. Good luck!

Edit: forgot to add but also and advantage of doing it that way is you can upgrade parts over time as you gain experience and develop preferences without dropping a ton of money upfront with little to know experience on what works best for you. Just an idea!
Click to expand...



This really is a good approach. I started with a Remington Tactical, put it into a HS stock at first and it just kept evolving as seen here.

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...846-308-remington-tactical-work-progress.html

I have a 5r in 223 as well and if it’s bigger brother (308) is as “refined” that would be the direction I would take if starting over on a tighter budget... that is, without the tools I have now. Now, I’d buy a Stiller action and if money was tight I’d Ebay a barrel and headspace to fit until money allowed for a better barrel... and throw it in a stock I like, bedding it myself and using a Timney 2.5-3 pound trigger.
As for scopes, I have had many... I would consider a SWFA 3-15x42 ss if you think you want a FFP reticle, also the 5-20x50 is a little more with better glass. If you don’t want FFP check out the Vortex Viper line. Eagle Optics should have a large selection glass... and just down the road a little from you. You are blessed, BTW, with barrel makers in your home state. They may even install one for you... just something to consider.
 
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Niles Coyote said:
This really is a good approach. I started with a Remington Tactical, put it into a HS stock at first and it just kept evolving as seen here.

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...846-308-remington-tactical-work-progress.html

I have a 5r in 223 as well and if it’s bigger brother (308) is as “refined” that would be the direction I would take if starting over on a tighter budget... that is, without the tools I have now. Now, I’d buy a Stiller action and if money was tight I’d Ebay a barrel and headspace to fit until money allowed for a better barrel... and throw it in a stock I like, bedding it myself and using a Timney 2.5-3 pound trigger.
As for scopes, I have had many... I would consider a SWFA 3-15x42 ss if you think you want a FFP reticle, also the 5-20x50 is a little more with better glass. If you don’t want FFP check out the Vortex Viper line. Eagle Optics should have a large selection glass... and just down the road a little from you. You are blessed, BTW, with barrel makers in your home state. They may even install one for you... just something to consider.
Click to expand...

Coyote,
Nice setup! That is basically what I did, but the 5R came in a HS stock that worked well for a good while until I upgraded it to a manners T5A and also a Timey trigger. I believe that the 5R is "typically" a little better out of the box than the other 700 factory rifles, but that is subjective based on a small sample of friends that had the SPS Varmint rifles (don't mean to start any wars please). Shot about 4000 rounds through my 5R before I sold it a few months ago to fund my first custom project. Used that 5R for everything from hunting to FTR comps, and I am glad I went that route and learned some important lessons before sinking a large investment into a custom. Ultimately the OP will have to make his own decision and I understand completely that a custom is very very tempting.
 
You're not going to get everything you want for $3500. If you want a stiller action and McMillan, that alone will eat up $2k. Add a barrel blank at $350, timney trigger at $125, and a cheap PTG bottom metal at $125 your parts total over $2600 alone. Add another $250 for pillar bedding, $300 for barrel install, $300 for ceracoat and your whole budget is blown on your rifle only. Even if you go with a Remington action and have it trued you're still not going to have enough left for a decent optic, rings, and base. Let alone all the other stuff you're going to need for LR shooting.

You need to go back to the drawing board and figure out what your needs and wants are and go from there. Personally is set $1500 aside for glass as minimum. That leaves $2k for rifle and everything else. Basically what I'm getting at is you should probably be looking at factory rifle options.
 
so from what im hearing, a nice factory rem 700 in .308 is a good place to start. I can use the extra money on a nice optic, a stock, and some reloading supplies. I actually really like this idea because once I do put a lot of rounds through it and eventually need to re barrel, I can put a 6.5 creedmoor barrel on it and away I go. thanks everyone for all the great advice i really appretiate it. I'll start looking for a rem 700 sps or aac-sd unless they make a different model that would work better?
 
I am not sure if they still make the 700 5R milspec or not but I think that is a good bet although will cost little more than the others. As far as the SPS and the AAC versions, just depends mainly on which you like better (short vs long barrel) and which bullet you want to shoot.
 
well both the aac and the sps have a 20" barrel or shorter. the aac has a 1:10 twist while the sps has the option of either a 1:10 or a 1:12 since the barrel length is on the shorter side and I want to be able to reach out pretty far, I would assume the 1:12 would be the better choice for its ability to stabilize the larger bullets
 
Wrong the 10 twist will stabilize larger bullets, you've got it reversed. They make the AAC, the SPS tactical (20" barrel) and the SPS Varmint which has a 26" barrel. If you really want to do 1000 then I would personally do a 155 scenar or berger from a 12 twist 26" barrel. Others prefer a heavier bullet but that depends on how heavy. A 175 is inferior IMO at 1000 to the 155 scenar or berger BUT if you can push a 185 or 200 berger to right velocity that's better. That said you'll need a 26" barrel for those heavy ones (again some may disagree but just in terms of getting all you can from them) but the 12 twist isn't enough for those bullets and you really need a custom chamber to take full advantage. Yes people run them with less barrel and a shorter chamber throat but I'm talking getting absolute best performance. You just have to decide what you want and make best decision from there. There are ALWAYS compromises: one barrel setup will work for a set of bullets but won't be ideal for all bullet weights and styles.
 
I think a 175-178gr from a 20" barrel will be a very nice place to start and with the right load will make 1000 without problems. The 12 twist might honestly be a little less twist than ideal for a 155 scenar or berger depending on the atomospherics on the day you're shooting but I know people that have done it with good results (155, 12 twist, 26" barrel with varget)
 
Some excellent advice on here.

It's also worth considering the SMR Paladin and that would leave you enough cash for a nightforce SHV and some leupold mark 4 Rings.
 

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I'm a little older than you (19 almost 20),but I'll be putting a 24" heavy howa barreled action in .223 in a B&C A2 stock here within the next year-18 months as my first rifle build. When I did the math on just parts that came out right at 700 with shipping on stock and ffl on the action. Buds has the action for 439 with free shipping and the stock would be from redhawk rifles for 219 plus 17 for shipping. I'm planning on 223 because my usual range is only 300 yards and its cheap plus theres brass easily available for when I get around to reloading. Even though I haven't been through it like some of the guys on here I agree with the start out factory approach and then go from there. This will be replacing my RAR in .270 for range days and it can go back to being just a deer/hog rifle. I had planned on a model 12 LRP in 6.5CM before I decided I would appreciate the whole hobby more if I built it myself.
 
ok so here is what I think is my build plan:
$600 - Remington 700 sps tactical 20" threaded barrel 1:12 twist (i want to be able to stabilize somewhat lighter loads so I don't have to chop the occasional coyote in half.
$300 - upgrade the stock to a hs precision or bell and Carlson depending on what i can get for cheapest.
$60 - weaver 20moa base.
$400 - reloading press, equipment, and components

that leaves me about $1600 for optics and other stuff. can you guys think of other stuff i need or anything else i should have done too the gun before i buy optics? Any other suggestions than what i have here? what would you all suggest for good glass? with $1600 i would think something top notch such as night force or maybe even USO?
 
altron274 said:
that leaves me about $1600 for optics and other stuff. can you guys think of other stuff i need or anything else i should have done too the gun before i buy optics? Any other suggestions than what i have here? what would you all suggest for good glass? with $1600 i would think something top notch such as night force or maybe even USO?
Click to expand...

Depends on the Magnification you want and I suppose what you are likely to do more of eg Hunting or Shooting Paper.

There are some great options out there...

Nightforce SHV 4-14*56 $975
Sightron SIII 8-32*56 $1K

Those two immediately come to mind but there are some good choices elsewhere.

The good thing about the Nightforce is that it has all the qualities you expect from them without the features of the higher end scopes in their range... I own the Sightron and it's really clear and very accurate dont have a bad word about it but I would love Zero stop.
 
I will probably be doing more paper shooting than hunting. would like a night force shv 2.5-10 work or is it a little low on the magnification level for shooing out to about 800 yds with?
 
altron274 said:
ok so here is what I think is my build plan:
$600 - Remington 700 sps tactical 20" threaded barrel 1:12 twist (i want to be able to stabilize somewhat lighter loads so I don't have to chop the occasional coyote in half.
Click to expand...

Get the 1-10 twist, Remington order number 84203.

The smaller the twist number (inches per turn), the faster the bullet spins for a given muzzle velocity. That means you can shoot longer/heavier bullets or reduce the loads (less velocity = less spin) without getting instability. If that does not make sense, look here: Find Optimal Barrel Twist-Rate with Berger Stability Calculator « Daily Bulletin

I am cursing at FN weekly for putting a 1-12 barrel in the SCAR17. The heavy pills will not stabilize at all and the low drag lightweights (155 Scenar, Palma, etc.) need to be pushed hard (see note below). 168 SMKs shoot lights out but they do not make it to 1000, not even close. FN severely limited the potential of the rifle by picking a 1-12 twist. Don't make the same mistake.

Note: The stability of a bullet is governed by the distance between the center of drag and the center of mass. A badminton shuttle cock with most of the mass in front and most of the drag in the back is inherently stable. A bullet with a long, hollow tip and a lead core in the back - not so much. It wants to turn around in the air until it flies like the shuttle cock with mass in front and drag in back. We prevent this with the gyroscopic effect of the bullet spin. The bullets now acts like a spinning top that stays straight despite its static instability. A spinning top that rotates too slowly will start wobbling (precession is the scientific term). Bullets do the same when they are spinning to slowly and you will see that clearly on the holes in the target. The small hole punched out by the tip will not be concentric with the bullet hole anymore. Try to close the bullet hole from the back of the paper to see this. To fix this precession and the resulting dispersion, you need more speed, a different bullet, or a faster twist. (I am not getting into density altitude here to make this less confusing).

Most bullets with a high ballistic coefficient (low drag) have a mass/drag distribution that require a faster twist (less inches per turn) than standard hunting rifle barrels.
 
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[MENTION=101529]altron274[/MENTION] I have and use a 26” 1:12 varmint, 20” 1:12 tactical and a 20” 1:10 AAC all are factory Remington barreled actions. Both of the 1:12 twists shoot 155-190 just fine in my experience. In the 1:10 the only thing I have used in it at this point has been 168 a-max and 175 smk’s...

Something you may also enjoy knowing is the 26” varmint barrel will generally do 100 fps more than either of the 20” barrels when the same load is used... at least with varget powder and 155, 168 and 175’s. You can expect to be running 175’s at 2490-2560, 168’s 2550-2650 and 155’s 2675-2750 depending on your powder charge using varget... and without pushing into the unknown. The 26” will add almost exactly 100 fps to these.

FWIW, the 308 5r, which I don’t have, has a 1:11.25 twist and a 24 inch barrel. I have seen post showing the same loads I use matching my 26” barrels velocity.

In the end it all depends on what you want but, I can tell you an extra 100fps is helpful when you are trying to connect on targets at 900-1000 yards. While I can and do shoot beyond 800 yards with my 20” barrels, I consider them geared more for 800 yards on in. They are great for positional shooting or carrying in thick cover which abounds in southern Michigan.

Also, another rifle you may consider is the Winchester stealth... here is a post on mine.
Winchester Stealth face lift - High Country Shooters

And a little here on the dbm.

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting...inchester-70-fn-spr-owners-pt-gs-new-dbm.html

It is by far the best factory rifle I own and actually gives my custom rock creek barreled action a run for the money in both accuracy and velocity. I am running Berger classic hunting hybrids both in 168 and now in 185 weights in its 1:12 barrel with the old standby load with 175’s. And the barrel is about 30-50fps faster than my 26” Remington.

You might see a theme here... you don’t need a 1:10 over a 1:12 to shoot medium to heavy bullets well and I have far too many 308’s, LOL. There are also several posters here that are running 208 amax from 1:12’s... But I have not tried those in any of the above and I suspect the posters all have a little more altitude than I. I keep the 208’s for my 30-06.
 
Alpine is correct. I was trying to avoid going too in depth into the math but if you are going with a shorter twist then definitely go 1:10 (if you were going 26" then 12 twist would be fine since you can push the velocity more therefore increasing the actual spin rate of the bullet). If you really want to understand the subject I recommend reading Applied Ballistics by Bryan Litz. Lots of good information in there. It will teach you about BCs/form factors, stability and even what happens to the bullets in wind (not just that it moves in the wind but how and why, its not just as simple as the wind "pushing" the bullet). Very good read and fairly easy to understand for such a complex subject.
 
I should have mentioned that the SCAR 17 has only 16" barrel length and I am at sea level. 1-12 twist is OK in longer barrels, but you are not loosing anything significant by going with a 1-10.

I second the articles and books from Bryan Litz. He explains complex things very nicely.
 
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This is a pretty good deal. 6 creedmoor is a good round, you will just have to reload for it. Plus you can sell off the Jewell and buy a timney for a $100 gain. That should buy some quality scope rings from the for sale section. Then you have about 1500 left for a scope. You can get into a NF, Bushy, or maybe even a razor hd. Get one of the older bushy 3.5-21s for around 1k and you have some money left to pick up some reloading supplies.

http://www.snipershide.com/shooting/firearms-sale/257262-custom-remington-6mm-cm.html
 
Niles Coyote said:
[MENTION=101529]altron274[/MENTION] There are also several posters here that are running 208 amax from 1:12’s...
Click to expand...


These guys must be shooting from the windows of the space station (just kidding) and have very long barrels and a LOT of powder behind these bullets. I was not even close to being stable from a 16" 1-12 barrel at sea level. Why did I even try ?

OTOH, has anyone seen significant, measurable benefits like less pressure or better LR precision from a 1-12 twist compared to a 1-10? Is the fear of over-stabilization justified?

The reason for asking is that I am surprised that the fast twist (1-8 or even 1-7) barrels of the 300AAC do not show any negative side-effects when shooting light, stubby bullets fast - at least not within the range this caliber can cover. Some of my loads have a Miller SG in excess of 4 and still shoot bug holes. Miller does not account for form factor but I am still surprised.
 
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I like the Bushnell 3.5-21 scope option a lot. They have come down in price and are great scopes. I have a HDMR 3.5-21 that is great.

I agree that depending on the altitude of your shooting a 208 Amax probably isnt a great idea. But you could do something along the lines of the 185 berger probably in a 1:12 26
barrel.

I would say from my understanding that the fear of over stabilization (within reason of course) is not really justified. That said, we are trying to compare a 20" 12 twist, a 20" 10 twist and a 26" 12 twist. If you are going short barrel you will be thankful for the 10 twist unless all of your shooting is done at higher altitudes. For a 26" barrel a 12 twist will work fine up to 190gr bullets. In my perfect world I would say a 26" 10 twist would be my ideal if the chamber throat allowed seating heavies out long... Also remember that stability is at its worst (in supersonic flight) right as the bullet leaves the barrel. After the bullet leaves the barrel the velocity is decreasing faster than the rate of spin therefore increasing the Sg (gyroscoping stability) until it gets down to transonic flight and dynamic stability becomes the issue which is more of a bullet design issue than a barrel twist rate issue.
 
altron274 said:
ok so here is what I think is my build plan:
$600 - Remington 700 sps tactical 20" threaded barrel 1:12 twist (i want to be able to stabilize somewhat lighter loads so I don't have to chop the occasional coyote in half.
$300 - upgrade the stock to a hs precision or bell and Carlson depending on what i can get for cheapest.
$60 - weaver 20moa base.
$400 - reloading press, equipment, and components

that leaves me about $1600 for optics and other stuff. can you guys think of other stuff i need or anything else i should have done too the gun before i buy optics? Any other suggestions than what i have here? what would you all suggest for good glass? with $1600 i would think something top notch such as night force or maybe even USO?
Click to expand...

Howa > Remington, quality wise.
 
proneshooter said:
Howa > Remington, quality wise.
Click to expand...


I cannot comment on Howa personally but I know a few people that have had excellent luck with them. I chose remington due to the commonality of parts and accessories. I think things have probably caught up a bit in the last 6-7 years since I was making this decision. Savage is also probably worth looking at just for the sake of completeness in your search. Consider all options and decide what works best for you. All will probably shoot beyond your capabilities for quite awhile.
 
Hello, I'm not going to try to build your entire gun. That should be of your choice. I just have some suggestions to keep in mind. First, you will save money by going with a PTG bottom medal. Second, you will save "a lot" of money by going with a second focal plane scope.(You do not need a first focal plane scope, and you can still buy a very nice high end optic, plus save money to put on the gun.) Third, I will never buy another trigger but a Jewel, if its going on a custom rifle. Forth, always buy a Manners stock, ;) ;) ;) look at their different models and buy the one that suits your needs only, not just looks cool (remember we're trying to cut cost for your tack driver "number one"!) Cool can come later when you save that money again.... I think you have made the right choice for your needs, by chosen the 6.5 Creedmoore. If although, the 6.5mm's are what you want. You can always find a box of Creedmoore around here. Thanks, BullyDog
 
if you are considering other than rem 700

look at the tikka sporter from eurooptic. can get that with a new burris 4-20 well under budget .. maybe enough to throw it in a krg
 
TimeWillTell said:
I cannot comment on Howa personally but I know a few people that have had excellent luck with them. I chose remington due to the commonality of parts and accessories. I think things have probably caught up a bit in the last 6-7 years since I was making this decision. Savage is also probably worth looking at just for the sake of completeness in your search. Consider all options and decide what works best for you. All will probably shoot beyond your capabilities for quite awhile.
Click to expand...

Depends on what you want in the aftermarket, there is one chassis for howa that I am aware of but B&C,manners and Mcmillian all make stocks for the 1500 and there are several choices for replacement triggers
 
There is a savage predator max in a creedmoor for sale on 65creedmoor forum (sorry if this gets attacked).
Accustock and accutrigger with a varmint barrel. The guy want around 1750 for it and the mark 4

My brother has this same gun in a 243 and not being a savage fan. I think you should got to dicks or cabelas and pick one up and hold it.
It would be a good do all starter. Then you would have plenty of funds to reload.
 
I have a fn spr 308 that shoots bug holes with federal 168 match, I'm lookin to sell it for 1000 would be an excellent starter rifle which would leave u plenty for a good scope

David
 
David22255 said:
I have a fn spr 308 that shoots bug holes with federal 168 match, I'm lookin to sell it for 1000 would be an excellent starter rifle which would leave u plenty for a good scope

David
Click to expand...

could you send me some pics of the rifle and some pics of groups you have shot if you have any
 
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