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New McMillan HTG M40A1 smear stocks!!!

Wheres the best source for a bottom metal for one of these smear stocks?

If you want it spec you are looking for a Winchester Model 70 Post-64 Steel Trigger-guard and Winchester Model 70 Post-64 Steel Floor-plate. eBay has some once in a while (there is a correct floorplate listed now in steel and trigger guards in aluminum which technically would function), its possible LRI may make some sets after the scope mounts are produced but as of right now no one trustworthy is making new production.
 
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If you want it spec you are looking for a Winchester Model 70 Post-64 Steel Trigger-guard and Winchester Model 70 Post-64 Steel Floor-plate. eBay has some once in a while (there is a correct floorplate listed now in steel and trigger guards in aluminum which technically would function), its possible LRI may make some sets after the scope mounts are produced but as of right now no one trustworthy is making new production.
Absolutely love the “no one trustworthy.” That’s just too good not to laugh at. 😂 I’m suprised the one we don’t speak of still has listing up and that people are buying from his still. I’ll be honest, I thought about buying a set of his bottom metal but I just can’t bring myself to do it. Plus he blocked me for the escutcheon thing last summer when he tried messing with me and my listing for those and Unertl mount screws.
 
We need to almost start a new thread and show how to do the modifications and also where we can order the correct hardware for the trigger guard.

I have a return smear I'm trying to mod the parts for and have seen some pics online and in books. But it would be nice to have a how-to tutorial where someone really shows this in detail. With all these Smears coming out, a lot of people will be needing help.
 
I guess if someone wanted to piece meal one together, this might be an option. He’s sold out of hinges, though. I don’t know if this is considered a reasonable price.

Lately, I’ve been following deep rabbit holes to find parts to build a Remington 40-X 22 Cal. M40 replica. I’m currently on a government sponsored European vacation, so I have plenty of time to search the web and find some less traveled vendor sites. I’ll bet if he had them listed as bottom metal he’d be sold out already.

For the record, I haven’t had any business with this vendor and have no stake in this.

Greg

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@RIGREG since you're new here be aware of this fool. He is the untrustworthy one referenced in posts 101 & 102 of this thread.
 
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Untrustworthy is being Very kind.

There quite possibly are more graphic terms which would be an accurate description of him.
 
@RIGREG since you're new here be aware of this fool. He is the untrustworthy one referenced in posts 101 & 102.
you mean post 101 & 102 on this thread.
 
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We need to almost start a new thread and show how to do the modifications and also where we can order the correct hardware for the trigger guard.

I have a return smear I'm trying to mod the parts for and have seen some pics online and in books. But it would be nice to have a how-to tutorial where someone really shows this in detail. With all these Smears coming out, a lot of people will be needing help.
Didn't the 2112's have to shorten the plates and guards originally? Thats how I remember it described. I know the holes for the screws at the front of the trigger guard, under the plate when closed, can vary location a lot.

Shouldn't you be able to set them in place and see where mods need to happen? Unless it was modified after return, it should be set up for the modded Winchester metal.
 
Didn’t Williams used to sell two piece bottom metal for these?

I have an unmodified set around here somewhere. I’ll dig it out and post some dimensions.
 
Didn't the 2112's have to shorten the plates and guards originally? Thats how I remember it described. I know the holes for the screws at the front of the trigger guard, under the plate when closed, can vary location a lot.

Shouldn't you be able to set them in place and see where mods need to happen? Unless it was modified after return, it should be set up for the modded Winchester metal.
Yes, the 2112 modified the trigger guards and floor plates. The stock were shipped to the Marines non-inletted, that was also done by the 2112's.
In one of the old sniper documentary/episode on the history channel in the show Sniper: one shot - one kill; its currently on prime under Navy Seals: America's Secret Warriors (season 1 epidose 1; not the navy seals one with the green picture, the other navy seals white picture), it shows a 2112 inletting a htg stock (?). I know for a fact is show a stock on a mill. That epidose is all M40A1 and older sniper stories.
 
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Finally received it today. It looks very different than the normal forest camo color. Snapped couple photos of it laying besides my not really "correct" A1 build.
Also a question for you guys. Is there anyway to time the sling swivel? The rear one is off to one side when fully tightened. The front swivel is perfect. Or should I just leave it as is?
 

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Finally received it today. It looks very different than the normal forest camo color. Snapped couple photos of it laying besides my not really "correct" A1 build.
Also a question for you guys. Is there anyway to time the sling swivel? The rear one is off to one side when fully tightened. The front swivel is perfect. Or should I just leave it as is?
The issued M40A1s had the Wichita sling loops screwed in all the way until the face of the base sat flush with the stock and were also bedded in place. The Marines were probably not worried about marring up the finish of the gel coat a bit to get them secured. Up to you, but I would not be too worried about either screwing the swivel into the gel coat a bit to get it lined up and secured properly, or use one of the small plastic crush spacers that come with sling studs to get it timed properly.
 
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Finally received it today. It looks very different than the normal forest camo color. Snapped couple photos of it laying besides my not really "correct" A1 build.
Also a question for you guys. Is there anyway to time the sling swivel? The rear one is off to one side when fully tightened. The front swivel is perfect. Or should I just leave it as is?
Just get a small washer. So you can "time" the swivel. If you go buy common sling swivel studs....they often come with white plastic washers.
 
We need to almost start a new thread and show how to do the modifications and also where we can order the correct hardware for the trigger guard.

I have a return smear I'm trying to mod the parts for and have seen some pics online and in books. But it would be nice to have a how-to tutorial where someone really shows this in detail. With all these Smears coming out, a lot of people will be needing help.
Here is one that I think has been modified. First pic shows the factory floor plate on the left with modified on the right. Second pic is the opposite with the modified trigger guard on the left. The modified trigger guard and floor plate are pre 64 and the factory guard and floor plate are post 64. Hope this helps to give you an idea of how much metal needs to be removed.
 

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I had one in my cart and it disappeared. Seems like their site isnt well setup. I emailed them. Wonder if anyone else had similar issues?
 
I had one in my cart and it disappeared. Seems like their site isnt well setup. I emailed them. Wonder if anyone else had similar issues?
I believe it's because someone purchased it before you could checkout. Putting it in your cart doesn't seem to reserve it based on some other people experiencing the same thing.
 
Never saw any when I was looking. The site did seem to lag a bunch with the lists changing numbers of pages. Knew the pics would show up here sometime today.
 
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Didn't look to see which one it was. I just kept on clicking to add one to my cart and finally got an order. Until Coejro posted the pics and then went to my order and found it was 28, I finally seen what it looked like.
 
Didn't look to see which one it was. I just kept on clicking to add one to my cart and finally got an order. Until Coejro posted the pics and then went to my order and found it was 28, I finally seen what it looked like.
Good deal i had that very one in my cart! You must have been alittle quicker on the trigger than me! Nice snag!
 
Mcmillan’s site doesn’t hold items in cart. If someone else pays for it first you lose it
 
Didn't look to see which one it was. I just kept on clicking to add one to my cart and finally got an order. Until Coejro posted the pics and then went to my order and found it was 28, I finally seen what it looked like.
I did get one tho. I was able to get #30 at last second!
 
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Random question: who has CMP Unertl serial number 1234? Last 4 of my A1 original smear action is 4321. I will make it worth your while or trade with you.
 

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Anyone here manage to get multiples and wanna sell one?:rolleyes:
 
Random question: who has CMP Unertl serial number 1234? Last 4 of my A1 original smear action is 4321. I will make it worth your while or trade with you.
An interesting way to sort-of number match. A long shot that the buyer is a member here as well. Another long shot way, have you tried asking CMP if they could put you in contact with the buyer? Assuming they kept the record. I wish you luck. It is not any easier than return buyers trying to match metal. Back then was the closest to optimal time.
 
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An interesting way to sort-of number match. A long shot that the buyer is a member here as well. Another long shot way, have you tried asking CMP if they could put you in contact with the buyer? Assuming they kept the record. I wish you luck. It is not any easier than return buyers trying to match metal. Back then was the closest to optimal time.
Do you know if the cmp will even give out that information? I would think it’s private but if the cmp is tax payer funded, then technically it’s public record. I lost out on the auction by like $100. I kick myself every time I think about it, I waited/hoped for that come up on the cmp. It did, and I lost. I willing to bet my uso mst-100 #4321 that who ever won it, is either on here or was on the m40rifle or the m14 group. At the very least I was hoping someone may know who may have it. It’s a long shot (pun intended).
 
Do you know if the cmp will even give out that information? I would think it’s private but if the cmp is tax payer funded, then technically it’s public record. I lost out on the auction by like $100. I kick myself every time I think about it, I waited/hoped for that come up on the cmp. It did, and I lost. I willing to bet my uso mst-100 #4321 that who ever won it, is either on here or was on the m40rifle or the m14 group. At the very least I was hoping someone may know who may have it. It’s a long shot (pun intended).
I don't know. I was thinking that if they still had a record, they may not divulge who but might act as an intermediary relaying your name and contact info to them.
 
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Here is the persons username

 
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@msr_762 If you log into your CMP eStore account, you can direct message the winning bidder. Click on their username from the link Jrb572 provided above. No idea if it link to email, but good luck with it!
 
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@msr_762 If you log into your CMP eStore account, you can direct message the winning bidder. Click on their username from the link Jrb572 provided above. No idea if it link to email, but good luck with it!
Just logged into the cmp since that auction ended. Emailed the buyer 🤞 I stopped bidding at 2282, sold for 2344. Still a regret of mine that I stopped bidding $62 short 🙄
 
We have an ERROR in the new smears! So everybody stop what your doing and go fondle that beautiful new smear. If your not already 😉

Where’s the error and although it not an issue but it’s there. Standard recoil lug on the A1’s is 3/16th thick. The A3’s and later models had a 5/16th recoil lug.

This new smear has its recoil lug area cut for the 5/16th lug. So go check your stocks. 3/16th lug is cut at about 1/4” wide. The 3/16th is about 3/8 wide.

Below is a new smear compared to a spec molded in forest camo.
 

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We have an ERROR in the new smears! So everybody stop what your doing and go fondle that beautiful new smear. If your not already 😉

Where’s the error and although it not an issue but it’s there. Standard recoil lug on the A1’s is 3/16th thick. The A3’s and later models had a 5/16th recoil lug.

This new smear has its recoil lug area cut for the 5/16th lug. So go check your stocks. 3/16th lug is cut at about 1/4” wide. The 3/16th is about 3/8 wide.

Below is a new smear compared to a spec molded in forest camo.
Mine Is .265 but it gets bedded in front of the lug with a pad so I don’t think anyone will notice once it’s full of your choice of epoxy.
 
Nope, doesn’t effect anything. Just not the norm and for those whose wish to use the a3 lug instead. It’s the peace of mind that you (your smith) isn’t cutting anything new into the stock. For the collector, it’s an oddball/error. I’m guess 99% of these stock will get built.
 
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Nope, doesn’t effect anything. Just not the norm and for those whose wish to use the a3 lug instead. It’s the peace of mind that you (your smith) isn’t cutting anything new into the stock. For the collector, it’s an oddball/error. I’m guess 99% of these stock will get built.
That's it, the batch is worthless now. Starts hearing the line from RoboCp, "I'd buy that for a dollar". I'll make sure they are disposed of properly. I'll even cover shipping so it costs you nothing extra. 😆

Since i got my cheap humor out of the way... I didn't think the returns were pillar bedded like has become standard in the last couple decades. Looks like the newer lug cuts are deeper as well. (Went back and reread noticing my error in that you were just comparing the new smear to a 'spec' molded woodland.)
 
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That's it, the batch is worthless now. Starts hearing the line from RoboCp, "I'd buy that for a dollar". I'll make sure they are disposed of properly. I'll even cover shipping so it costs you nothing extra. 😆

Since i got my cheap humor out of the way... I didn't think the returns were pillar bedded like has become standard in the last couple decades. Looks like the newer lug cuts are deeper as well. (Went back and reread noticing my error in that you were just comparing the new smear to a 'spec' molded woodland.)
Correct on the comparison to the molded-in forest camo. My original smear came to me many years ago, previously twice bedded by the Corps. Original action was (22)4309, then at some point she wore (22)4306; assuming. Both stock and botttom are marked as such. Now she hold my (2_)4321 action.
 
Correct on the comparison to the molded-in forest camo. My original smear came to me many years ago, previously twice bedded by the Corps. Original action was (22)4309, then at some point she wore (22)4306; assuming. Both stock and botttom are marked as such. Now she hold my (2_)4321 action.
The unique history continues. I thought they stayed with whatever action they were married to until being broken or replaced for A3, A5 etc. Now we need the old actions released since they've gone to the larger actions now.

I think we only have one more release till the new smears are done if 50 was to be the total and the claim of 10 already bought by a member was true. Otherwise there should be 2 releases left and all done by early december.

Or they start another run of 50 for a different pattern? lol Then the obsession begins for people to have one of each pattern. lol "Which stock do you have? Return? Smear? semi smear? woodland? New smear? And then the new smears would be broken down into patterns under such an idea. P1 (current) P2, P3 etc (all imagined)

Wonder if the original smear patterns were ever documented? Probably not other than the talk of the K pattern Kelly did back in the day?
 
That is a great question and I love thinking of all the possible reason why/how it got switch out for another. Was 4309 damaged? Did a 2112 fuck it up and scrapped it? Did it accidentally get mixed up with another and they just left it? Did they have a brain fart when etching/stamping the number/writing the last 4 of sn? We will never know

Who ever build my rifle at the end of 2012 at gap removed the original 4306 in the barrel channel. Also, the gunsmith there did not stamp my barreled action with their hallmark (as gap claims they do on every rifle they build).

4309 was etched in the barrel channel and bottom metal. 4306 was written in the channel and stamped on the bottom metal.
 

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That is a great question and I love thinking of all the possible reason why/how it got switch out for another. Was 4309 damaged? Did a 2112 fuck it up and scrapped it? Did it accidentally get mixed up with another and they just left it? Did they have a brain fart when etching/stamping the number/writing the last 4 of sn? We will never know

Who ever build my rifle at the end of 2012 at gap removed the original 4306 in the barrel channel. Also, the gunsmith there did not stamp my barreled action with their hallmark (as gap claims they do on every rifle they build).

4309 was etched in the barrel channel and bottom metal. 4306 was written in the channel and stamped on the bottom metal.
Hmm,
The first pic has 4306 and 4321 stamped but (electro penciled?) 4309. To me I was seeing it as an 8 but what if it was a 6 and then penciled over a 9 giving it the 8-ish look to me. Maybe a dyslexic moment? Originally penciled 4309 but meant to be 6 so tried to pencil 6 over it unsuccessfully then got out the stamps ? Then how it ended up 4321 is anyone's guess.

The second looks something ending in 40 scratched in in the fill/bedding upside down compared to the markered 4321.

Your guard is both 306 and 4321. Interesting condition. Maybe someday the Quantico log books will be generally known and it may give you answers as to when the changes happened.

I remember people talking about certain GAP builder's marks so they knew exactly who built it. Someone had a fire hydrant if I remember right. I forget any others.
 
It’s a 9. The 4321 is my 6 digit actions last 4. The fire plug is Eric Reid stamp. Gap does stamp all rifles. Have been since my first build with them in 2005. Somehow my A1 was not.
 

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The ghost numbering as I like to call them. I just noticed them last weekend when I pulled the action after 10+ year of owning this stock. It’s either a 40 or 43 there
 

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It’s a 9. The 4321 is my 6 digit actions last 4. The fire plug is Eric Reid stamp. Gap does stamp all rifles. Have been since my first build with them in 2005. Somehow my A1 was not.
Ah, ok. If the actions ever become available you'll have to watch for 4306. Then you put it back in this stock and make 4321 the repro smear's number?
 
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